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WLee

JK nose up

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I'm looking to build a Toter/Hauler bed for my 09 M2-106 Freightliner. I'll be hauling 12 JK on tieback nose up. Way up. Pulling a 40' Mountain Aire.

 I know the first thing the will be thought or said is "not enough truck", but my choice.

Now the ISC is set at 330/1000. Thinking about having it bumped to 375/1200.The Allison 3000RDS can handle 1200 TQ.

Thought about Doubles but Eastern states it's a no no.

I want to make it with a slidingHitch. A design I haven't seen before.

I have a drawing on 2D Delta Cad. I'll try to upload it this weekend.

untitled.jpg

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Won't you exceed the 19,500 pound loading on the M2 106. I think you may be looking  at a M2-112 ,I'm assuming all 112's are class 5 .

I can only visualize the pin over the axle on my 2015 M2-106 Sport Chassis anything else would a loading problem.

Do your truck the Cab 2 door or 4 door. My 4 door model has a 187 inch wheel.

Clay

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27 minutes ago, ms60ocb said:

Won't you exceed the 19,500 pound loading on the M2 106. I think you may be looking  at a M2-112 ,I'm assuming all 112's are class 5 .

I can only visualize the pin over the axle on my 2015 M2-106 Sport Chassis anything else would a loading problem.

Do your truck the Cab 2 door or 4 door. My 4 door model has a 187 inch wheel.

Clay

Our M2-112 had a 12K front and a 23K rear axle. It was rated as a class 7 truck in that configuration. You can get that truck with tandems in the rear and a class 8 rating if desired.

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I have a 10K front and a 18K rear axle now. The 106 can be ordered with a GVR rating of 54K +. 

 I have the 187" wheelbase to, but I'm going to get it stretched and add a 13K tag axle. 

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Following.

I have a 10/17.5 combo. I think I am about 22 ft long.

I wouldn't thought what is being suggested possible but I am guessing it isn't a sport chassis.

Would like to see the finished product.

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1 hour ago, WLee said:

I have a 10K front and a 18K rear axle now. The 106 can be ordered with a GVR rating of 54K +. 

 I have the 187" wheelbase to, but I'm going to get it stretched and add a 13K tag axle. 

Whoever you have do this work needs to be a licensed up fitter who can issue a new GVW tag for the vehicle.  If you don't get a new sticker, you will still be limited to your original weights legally (no matter what modifications you make).  You also need to do some serious calculations on weights and balance.  You will very easily overload that 10k front axle if you aren't careful.  Even with a new sticker and the modifications, you are going to be asking a lot from that drivetrain.  You will definitely be going slow up any substantial grades.  Hopefully you will be okay with that.

Edited by Chad Heiser

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That's what I'm looking for is constructive input. Like the upfitter. I know it would be slower on the grades. I'll be adding about 6500 pounds. 

It's not a Sport Chassis. 

We will never go full time. It would be used for 2 good trips a year. 1 East, 1 West. 

 

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2 hours ago, WLee said:

One more thing about upfitters. When a HD singles do they have to get recertification ?

 

There is no requirement to get a recertification.  Obviously once an HDT is singled, it can no longer haul what it is rated for because it has lost the capacity of the now missing axle.  It would then be limited to the lesser of its capabilities (the two remaining axle ratings) instead of the factory sticker ratings.  When going down in capacity, the remaining components become the limiting factor.  When going up in capacity, the factory sticker (rating) is the limiting factor (unless it too is updated).

Edited by Chad Heiser

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17 hours ago, WLee said:

I have a 10K front and a 18K rear axle now. The 106 can be ordered with a GVR rating of 54K +. 

 I have the 187" wheelbase to, but I'm going to get it stretched and add a 13K tag axle. 

WL, seems that you might want to take some time out and gather ALL of your INTENDED components of your Dream Combo and then Calculate some REAL world numbers of Weight & Balance BEFORE changing the wheelbase or adding tag axles.

I have Calculated more Weight and Balance solutions for Trucks and Trailer combos than most folks here on the forum, however when one starts LOADING Jeeps or Smart cars on the bed of the truck it can become a dicey game for the steer axle rated capacity Especially.........Especially  IF you Extend the wheelbase.

You are asking good questions........the answers likely can be calculated by starting to document what you already have and then taking your current Weight & Balance data and then running some "What-If" configurations with more Weight & Balance calculations for each "What-If" combo's........

If you like you could email me (mmcdan3189@aol.com) your current configuration data and then I could run a current Weight & Balance and then we could run a few "What-If's" to give you some options..........remember....the devil is in the details....

 

Drive on............(Who's got the ......details?)

 

Edited by Dollytrolley

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Thanks Chad for your response. And you too DollyTrolly. Were out of town for a week. I'm go ing to take you up on the weights and balances offer. As it sets now the front axle Weights 8030+\- 100 lb Bobtail, pulling 5th wheel or 28k equipment trailer. Currently the hitch is over the center of the axle. That will change. 

 I went to a MDT in 99 because I was over working a 1ton. I don't won't to overload a truck. If we would ever go full time I would buy a HDT, but that ain't Gina happen  I would go crazy or have to pull a work trailer behind the 5er so I would have something to do  

Cummins and Allison both rate the components at 80k. Like I said before I can handle slowing down on the hills. 

A little more about the truck. Air brakes, suspension, seats and CrewCab. 

A week or so back my wife's Postal LLV broke down and she had to ride in a MDT wrecker and she now appreciate air ride. 

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 How about this setup. I used the original sliding hitch from the truck. Just moved it back to its new position.

 Removed the old hitch from the sliding mechanism, and built an extention with a binkly head mounted on 2 1/4" of rubber.

 

 If you look in the test post section you can see this setup.

 

 With this I pad mini I cannot post pictures on this forum.

 

 Safe Travels, . Vern

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I went ti the test post section and found your post. I didn't see any pics of the hitch.

I'm defiantly interested.Your setup is similar to what I'm trying to do but with a longer Jeep.

Wasn't sure what I wanted to do with the ramps. I like your setup.

If you have more detailed pics and don't mind sharing Email me at waynelee1354@gmail.com.

Do you winch your Jeep up or drive it up?

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After zooming I see the winch cable laying from the Jeep to the bed. I thought that might be a little steep a climb!!

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I did email you pictures. Sorry I cannot post pictures on this forum because of the iPad  mini I use.

 

 Post them on this forum if you like

 

thanks,.  Vern

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Thanks for the pictures of your hitch and framework for the jeep. Your slider is a lot like what I want to do.Sliderframe.jpg.6b1066ca22be1ea46fffbd5e9629cace.jpg

This is the frame I'm thinking of building.i think it's a little long just not sure how much to counterleaver.

The frame will be 9"x5/16 Channel.Rearveiwframe.jpg.92064ea1ace4ba83504a151ed5db017f.jpg

This is how I plan to attach the slider to the bed. The blue Cs are the slider riding on UHMW wear strips or similar. I'll have to build the pockets they slide in.

Working an how to lock and unlock by air. Modified slider locks maybe.

Big5er I would like your input on modifying the truck. I know I can make it safe, just concerned about 

legal!

 

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 I used 3"x5" x 1/4" wall tubing for the long supports and double them on both sides. 

 I need to go do some work for my business then will take pictures from above later today. If not then I will take them in the am.

 I really looked at several car hauling trucks to see how they are built in the hitch area.

 That will give you a better Idea of how much they support. Also if you can watch one going into and out of a truckstop notice how the truck itself acts.

 

 It is much different than a normally loaded truck.

 

 I need to go fix a water heater on an RV. 

Maybe we should talk on the phone.

 

 Safe Travels,    Vern 

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I've eyeballed the car hauler hitches. Very impressive.

Now you've got me thinking. Maybe a 9x2x1/4 rec tubing. Almost double the strength of 5/16 Channel.

Easer to build the slider frame with rec tubing than Channel!

I found a Holland slider frame,NWB,desigh I think would work for my slider Locks.

I would like to talk for sure! I'll email you my#.

 

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 This is some of the things you will need to look at. And what and why I did it.

 To keep the top of the bed as low as possible I used 5" x 2" X1/4" wall box tubing for the cross members.  So there is a cross member just forward of the rear bar that controls the rear axle from side to side.

 So really the bed is just a flat bed. Or rather it was on the original truck it was on. 

 So my slider is only about 6' long.

  I added 16" of length to the truck bed for tool boxes on the back with three doors across the back. Now inside the center tool box there is a 2"x5" tubing support angled up to support the rear of the tool boxes where the sliding hitch rest when extended.

 The whole bed is built with 1/4" plate steel. 

 Three reasons for using 1/4" plate steel. One is for weight when bob tailing. Second is for added strength for the hitch.

 The third is safety in case of an accident.

 This bed was built in October 2006. In March of 2007 we were hit in the rear by a Peterbuilt truck at about 40 mph faster than we were traveling. So I cut off the rear 3' and rebuilt it.

 Our old fifth wheel had about 4000 lbs of tongue weight. In that situation only the sliding hitch supported the weight .

 With the tongue weight now at about 6000 lbs, maybe there should more support.

 So now with the hitch extended there are two ( I think ) category 4 top links that are installed at an angle upwards and inwards to support the end of the hitch when it is extended.

 I used a commercial air sliding hitch from a HDT. Cut the center out so that I still had the sliding mechanism and locking parts. Then welded the locking mechanism to the new center assembly that now has the hitch head on it. This assembly is bolted to the truck with the same mounting as the hitch was originally attached with.

 

 Now pay attention to the overall dimensions....?..

 Last year I put a grill guard on the yj, ?......?????

 Loaded the jeep and at the angle it sits ??????? boy that grill guard looks high

 

 Get out the tape measure just in case BIG FIVER might just want some Diet Pepsi .  2",under the legal limit.  Get that big fiver.  2" under.

 

 Also the front of the hitch gets bolted down to the frame when it is in position.

 

 I was a draftsman when I was young and have done a lot of construction and steel fabrication before. So with a set of plans for what steel needed to be cut, off to a steel supplier I went.

 Picked up the steel and assembled the bed outside in a field.

 There is more small details, but it would take a lot of typing to explain it.

 

Safe Travels,.  Vern

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  Just noticed something in the HDT section you may want to take a look at. Brand new slider hitch. Looks like the air locking device is there also.

 Just do not tell anyone about using it as intended. You may be an outlaw then.

 

 Have fun ,.  Vern

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Thanks for the heads up on the slider hitch.

I don't follow others well. I've almost always found my on way. There's a few exceptions. 

I pick who I follow very carefully! I fell off a 50' oil tank when I was 19 following orders.

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