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SuiteSuccess

Synthetic Winch Rope

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40 minutes ago, hone eagle said:

Not to beat a horse too much Carl ,but what is the radii of the fair lead? How many degrees of 'turn' are you making over what distance?The winch manufacturer is assuming a straight line pull.

Not sure I can be exact.  This is the fairlead I use. https://www.amazon.com/Warn-87914-WARN-Hawse-Fairlead/dp/B007KCNAK8. Then one 180* turn over riser pulley 

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I heard somewhere wire rope sheaves need to be 24x rope diameter to work the line at full capacity.  Reduce load as sheave diameters get smaller? 

But the drum of the winch is smaller than 24d's... 

The memory is foggy 

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27 minutes ago, noteven said:

I heard somewhere wire rope sheaves need to be 24x rope diameter to work the line at full capacity.  Reduce load as sheave diameters get smaller? 

But the drum of the winch is smaller than 24d's... 

The memory is foggy 

This is important to remember all the pounds of load  breaking strength are assuming straight pull in line withe drum, any turns will reduce the working load ,too tight a turn (knots are turns) the life of the line is short.

That said our loads are a small fraction of max, you could use a 6 part block and tackle and hand haul the smart up. No one in it ? We should use a safety line as a second fail safe 'stopper' to keep it from trundling across the campground in case the tow line breaks.

(Iam still driving it up :-) 

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I've often thought of that, how could we do that?  I'm thinking of a 1 way ratchet with strap.  While winching in, pull in the slack in the strap so the car can't  roll down.

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18 minutes ago, hone eagle said:

This is important to remember all the pounds of load  breaking strength are assuming straight pull in line withe drum, any turns will reduce the working load ,too tight a turn (knots are turns) the life of the line is short.

That said our loads are a small fraction of max, you could use a 6 part block and tackle and hand haul the smart up. No one in it ? We should use a safety line as a second fail safe 'stopper' to keep it from trundling across the campground in case the tow line breaks.

(Iam still driving it up :-) 

Ralf,

I am going to use a winch strap as a stopper.  I figured it out this afternoon.  Will post a pic when in use.

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7 hours ago, lockmup68 said:

Make sure you have a smooth fairlead and not a roller fairlead, as it will cut the rope.

 

Didn't know that, Thank you!

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5 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Ralf,

I am going to use a winch strap as a stopper.  I figured it out this afternoon.  Will post a pic when in use.

I think a "winch strap stopper' would be a good idea. I had some damage happen 2 yrs ago which would have been prevented by such a device.  Cost me 1500$ for and oil cooler and new muffler when car ran back down the ramps almost making I all the way but not quite before going off a foot from the bottom.  Oil all over the place.

I'll be #1 to install one.

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Winch straps are nylon I am pretty sure ,size it so it can act a shock absorber .

Nylon is very very stretchy at over half working load.

kind of goes against everything we believe in eh? but don't go 'overkill'.

Ralf

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On 5/26/2017 at 3:09 PM, SuiteSuccess said:

After reading about the ramp breaking by a poster, no one will be in the car winching up or down.  I plan on using my replaced rope as a second emergency rope attached to the car in case the winch rope were to break.  That way it would roll down the ramp but would stop with the second rope.

You want a "snatch strap" (stretchy strap) as your safety unless you have a way to keep the safety line nearly taut during the entire winching process. You don't want two immoveable/unstretchable things to have a war of the worlds at the wrong instant.

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Here's my thoughts on a emergency strap.  I'm not an engineer so don't laugh at this idea.  Use a piece of "C" channel as the tray to run the 2" strap through.  Use a meat tenderizing hammer or similar as the serrated implement by drilling a hole through the hammer head center and attaching in the C channel leaving the handle on.  Pass the strap under the head in the channel and it would give you a controllable cam strap with the serrations grabbing the strap if the handle was pulled down.  Might not completely stop the car but bet it would slow it to a crawl. Now you can laugh?

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wreckers use 1/2 " cable and if it breaks the car just drops to the ground.Though U tube has a bunch of vids when it happens on a slope.

Carl has a legit concern.

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Sometimes it's been necessary to unload the smart where if it were to roll down the ramp unimpeded it would crash into another trailer. You can say that's what insurance is for but a safety strap would be much cheaper.  My wife previously rode the car down the ramp with the winch and could apply brakes if needed. After reading about the same ramps I have failing just not going to be an option anymore. 

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You might take a look at manual sailboat winches used to trim sails, they have internal 1 way clutches and a locking cleat at the top, 3 or 4 wraps on the drum for friction and then slack the loose end of the line so it slips on the drum when lowering

 

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3 hours ago, shorts said:

You might take a look at manual sailboat winches used to trim sails, they have internal 1 way clutches and a locking cleat at the top, 3 or 4 wraps on the drum for friction and then slack the loose end of the line so it slips on the drum when lowering

Should of kept some of the Lewmar 2 speeds when I parted out my last boat eh? 

 

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