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Mobley missing thread


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1 hour ago, Pat & Pete said:

What is the effective pinout of the Mobley ( positive and negative pins ) ?

I thought it was #1 pin for positive and #4 pin for negative .

Obviously , I was wrong . I found the OBD2 pinout :

b3kaj.png

Pin 16 is battery + and pin 4 is chassis ground .

I used a 3/16 inch female spade lug on pins 4 and 5 for the negative, then cut another female spade cut in half to supply +12 vdc to pin 16.  Worked like a champ until my OIB II power supply arrived.

Note the Mobley has the pin numbers inside the connector.

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It is in fact #4 (ground) and #16 (positive). I've done 3 cords that way. No need to jumper #5. Tracking down the right wire is the most difficult part. There seems to be no standard rhyme or reason to color coding between mfg's. I've had an orange with yellow stripe, a pink and a red for positive and blue, lime green, and aqua for grounds. B) Happy hunting!

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2 hours ago, lexidog said:

I think it is 16 and 5 but not 100% sure because I was lazy and didn't feel like messing with soldering and looking up the pins so just bought my adapter :P

I couldn't find a consensus whether the signal ground (5) or the chassis ground (4) was the only one needed, so when I wired my adapters, I connected both. Works fine...

Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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12 minutes ago, Dutch_12078 said:

I couldn't find a consensus whether the signal ground (5) or the chassis ground (4) was the only one needed, so when I wired my adapters, I connected both. Works fine...

The chassis ground (#4) is required for normal operation (engine on then off). The #5 is optional. No harm no foul, but not "required".

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Just now, Yarome said:

The chassis ground (#4) is required for normal operation (engine on then off). The #5 is optional. No harm no foul, but not "required".

Yep, that's what I've determined since then, but at the time... ;)

Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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1 minute ago, Dutch_12078 said:

Yep, that's what I've determined since then, but at the time... ;)

No harm done. With the chassis ground (#4) it will utilize the mobley's shut-off setting. I'm not entirely sure how long the singal ground remains active after the engine is shut down, but I very vaguely seem to recall something like 30min. (??). That might just be for my own rig and might vary, however, I quite honetly have no firm idea.

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4 minutes ago, Yarome said:

No harm done. With the chassis ground (#4) it will utilize the mobley's shut-off setting. I'm not entirely sure how long the singal ground remains active after the engine is shut down, but I very vaguely seem to recall something like 30min. (??). That might just be for my own rig and might vary, however, I quite honetly have no firm idea.

I'll have to test that sometime out of curiosity... :)

Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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On 6/2/2017 at 7:28 PM, Lou Schneider said:

I used a 3/16 inch female spade lug on pins 4 and 5 for the negative, then cut another female spade cut in half to supply +12 vdc to pin 16.  Worked like a champ until my OIB II power supply arrived.

Note the Mobley has the pin numbers inside the connector.

That's what I did , after trying just a connect to #4 , which wouldn't seem to power the device . When I connected both the 4 & 5 , it powered up . Maybe I just had a bad initial connect on #4 , but the 4 &5 connection is working .

Goes around , comes around .

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Reviewer on Amazon said Mobly supports WPS but undocumented.

Anyone figured out how to trigger WPS on the Mobly?  (I have a couple IP cameras that require an ethernet connection to link to router to get set-up then they can be disconnected and run wireless or they can use WPS - Since Mobly has no ethernet ports - WPS connecting should work.

Or. as an alternate, Anyone know hot to use the ethernet port on a laptop as a pass-through to the Mobly - I tried plugging the cameras into the laptop and configuring that way without success.

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To connect the IP camera and your laptop directly, you might need a crossover cable? All it is is some of the wires are reversed on one end to make a direct connection between to like devices. That might work, not sure? - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable

Do you have an extra router, or switch laying around. You could connect the camera & PC both to it using ethernet cables and should be able to access the software menu to configure the wifi connection. The router doesn't even need to be on the internet since you are just using it as a medium to connect the two devices. 

 

Dan (Class of 2017) - 2012 Ram 3500 & 2005 Alpenlite Valhalla 29RK
Contact me at rvsolarconsulting.com or Two Wheel Ramblin

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Thanks BlueLightning for the separate router idea - I fired up my old WiFiRanger Go and connected the cameras through it.  Worked flawlessly.  The cameras could also be set up to connect directly to any of the available WiFis including directly to the Mobly,  So if anyone runs into this problem, you just have to borrow a WiFiRanger Go for a few minutes to get the cameras set up and talking directly to the selected WiFi source.

I decided to keep the WiFiRanger Go running and everything connecting through it as it eliminate that darned 5 device limit of the Mobly. (And didn't affect my speedtest results.)

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What is the port on the side of the Mobly for? (Under the sticker)  It appears to be a Micro USB but I tried to plug a Micro USB cable into it and it was a no-go (at least easily) and I didn't want to force it.

If it is a Micro USB, can it be used to connect the Mobly to a router like a WiFi Go or Cradelpoint?

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On 6/2/2017 at 9:13 PM, Yarome said:

-CLAIMED- 

DSCN0170.jpg

I have one of the same power supplies.  My Mobly was dropping internet connection constantly requiring reboot.  Sometimes as often as after 10 minutes, other times it went for days without problems.   I had made up a spare power supply so changed supplies.  Lo and behold problems went away.  The only thing I can surmise is that these cheap 12V power supplies are just a capacitor dropper with a bridge rectifier and some smoothing capacitors and the power supply became very noisy screwing up the Mobly.

Anyway, if you are having problems, it's a quick and easy check/fix.   

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The port on the side of the Mobley under the sticker is indeed a micro-USB port. While it cannot be used to power the Mobley, it can be used to tether the Mobley to some routers. I don't recall off hand which ones it works with, but I did try connecting it to a Pepwave Mini Surf On-The-Go. The OTG recognized it as an AT&T device, but it did not allow an Internet connection. There may be a setting I'm missing somewhere, but I haven't spent a lot of time researching it yet. I also have a Cradlepoint MBR95, but I haven't tried tethering the Mobley to it yet.

Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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On 6/8/2017 at 8:04 PM, DuffMan said:

I have one of the same power supplies.  My Mobly was dropping internet connection constantly requiring reboot.  

Interesting to know. I'm sure there are quite a number of those that look nearly identical, but not all are created equal. I've never experienced any of those issues. Another thought might be that it may have had a poor connection resulting in a low voltage situation for your Mobley.. cutting out on you with increased power demands during times of high bandwidth usage. The mobley ranges from around 125mA's to 350mA's on demand. Dunno really.. just another thought.

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1 hour ago, Yarome said:

Interesting to know. I'm sure there are quite a number of those that look nearly identical, but not all are created equal. I've never experienced any of those issues. Another thought might be that it may have had a poor connection resulting in a low voltage situation for your Mobley.. cutting out on you with increased power demands during times of high bandwidth usage. The mobley ranges from around 125mA's to 350mA's on demand. Dunno really.. just another thought.

Agreed . As with most electronics , a scratch tight connection is best . I initially tried 'touch' connections on our Mobley and it never even powered up . I then went to very tight connections , requiring some force to be made , and wonders of wonders , the thing came to life . No problems since . 

Goes around , comes around .

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12 volt switching power supplies are cheap.  Here's one I used until my OBD2 power supply arrived ... and it had the same power cube.

You could splice it into your existing OBD socket in place of the cheap wall wart, or like I did, use a couple of female spade lugs pushed onto the pins of the Mobley.  One on pins 4 and 5 for the negative, the other cut in half to connect the positive to pin 16.

The Mobley pins are a little thicker than a male spade lug, so once the female lugs are pushed on there's no danger of them accidentally coming loose.

http://www.allelectronics.com/item/ps-121/12-vdc-1-amp-power-supply/1.html

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