Loading motorcycle into toy hauler

[Twotoes]

I have a Harley Street Glide and for 5 years traveled in a toy hauler. I found it was easy to load, just ride up the ramp at a reasonable speed. Not too fast or too slow. I had a Condor wheel chock bolted to the floor inside and would just ride the bikes front wheel into the chock. Unloading was more of a problem. The best way is to leave the motor off, put the bike in gear and use the clutch not the break to back down the ramp. I am now handicapped from a motorcycle accident but still ride. I now travel in a Class A Motorhome with a hydrolift on the back. Much easier than trying to load a bike into a toy hauler.

[Broncohauler]

Just a thought but if the device Big5r showed works for winching on, could you leave it strapped to the bike for stability like training wheels while backing down the ramp?? 

Maybe make it wider with better wheels?

[Black]

What about buying a piece of channel iron that is the wheelbase of your motorcycle, welding some drings onto it so you can strap the bike to the channel, and then add some rubber wheels to the channel itself?

The process would be to ride onto the channel, strap the bike down, and then winch the assembly into the trailer. Once in the trailer, secure the channel to keep the channel from moving. When you arrive at your destination, unhook the channel from the trailer, winch it back out, and then unhook the motorcycle from the channel. This will let you always load on flat ground, allow you to winch in and winch out, and will be as simple as slowly riding onto the channel on level ground.

I imagine a piece of channel is $20-$30, 4 tires from HD are probably $15, and a little bit of time to make an easy loader.

 

 

Edited April 30, 2017 by Black

[noteven]

On 4/24/2017 at 6:58 PM, rickeieio said:

 

.... she got a smaller cruiser style, and hates it.  Sez it handles like a truck.  ....

[porthole]

I know this is almost a year old, but I'll add my two cents.

I now have 8.5 years with our toy hauler, 2010 Cyclone. Our models with the 10' garage so it only has a 7' ramp, shorter and steeper.

Several things I learned early on. 

1) You have to be prepared and deliberate on your loading attempt, a couple ramp approaches, make sure you are lined up and go. Hesitating halfway is a recipe for disaster.

2) Several storage ideas inside and I have settled on Condor wheel chocks. Flat out the best and easiest to use. I no longer even bolt them down. I use 2x4' or 2x8's in front to block them against the wall.

3) Premium straps are worth the money. I use M&R 1" ratchet straps.

4) Backing down - right hand wrapped firmly around the grip - no front brake. Bike in gear and clutch all the way down. Has already been mentioned previously, but trying to stop backing down the ramp using the front brake can be embarrassing or injurious.

I have Screamin Eagle Electric Glide, so it may help a bit that it has a hydraulic clutch 

Once the rear tire is at the ground and you are getting ready for that air gap I just 'go'.

5) One time - only once I tried to load in from wet, bit muddy grass - never again. I ran 8 gauge wire back to the garage and have a small remote control winch in the corner of the garage. I use a pulley to change direction and will use the winch any time it may be questionable loading.

2016 season we were sitting at our RV when a toy hauler pulled in next to us. Not very friendly from getting out the truck but hey whatever.

They open the ramp and the bitching starts, their cheap HF straps on the dresser snapped and the bike fell over into the wife's Road King, which snapped it's straps and fell over. We offered help - were turned away and watched.

Backing out the Road King none of us suspected or expected that the front brake reservoir would have been dry. Once on the ramp and only using the non existent front brake made for a harrowing 10-20 mph ride backwards down the ramp. He finally fell over about half way in the fairway.

 

 

 

[dascom]

I use a long ramp and a small winch mounted on the truck.

Built a set of training wheels to stabilize the bike so I don't need to balance it.

Snap it into the biker bar, and I am done, no straps needed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Yhix4w9uPUlsKhzr2

 

[Pat & Pete]

1 hour ago, porthole said:

I know this is almost a year old, but I'll add my two cents.

I now have 8.5 years with our toy hauler, 2010 Cyclone. Our models with the 10' garage so it only has a 7' ramp, shorter and steeper.

Several things I learned early on. 

1) You have to be prepared and deliberate on your loading attempt, a couple ramp approaches, make sure you are lined up and go. Hesitating halfway is a recipe for disaster.

2) Several storage ideas inside and I have settled on Condor wheel chocks. Flat out the best and easiest to use. I no longer even bolt them down. I use 2x4' or 2x8's in front to block them against the wall.

3) Premium straps are worth the money. I use M&R 1" ratchet straps.

4) Backing down - right hand wrapped firmly around the grip - no front brake. Bike in gear and clutch all the way down. Has already been mentioned previously, but trying to stop backing down the ramp using the front brake can be embarrassing or injurious.

I have Screamin Eagle Electric Glide, so it may help a bit that it has a hydraulic clutch 

Once the rear tire is at the ground and you are getting ready for that air gap I just 'go'.

5) One time - only once I tried to load in from wet, bit muddy grass - never again. I ran 8 gauge wire back to the garage and have a small remote control winch in the corner of the garage. I use a pulley to change direction and will use the winch any time it may be questionable loading.

2016 season we were sitting at our RV when a toy hauler pulled in next to us. Not very friendly from getting out the truck but hey whatever.

They open the ramp and the bitching starts, their cheap HF straps on the dresser snapped and the bike fell over into the wife's Road King, which snapped it's straps and fell over. We offered help - were turned away and watched.

Backing out the Road King none of us suspected or expected that the front brake reservoir would have been dry. Once on the ramp and only using the non existent front brake made for a harrowing 10-20 mph ride backwards down the ramp. He finally fell over about half way in the fairway.

 

 

 

You must have a video of that event . 

I feel sorry for the guy , but , it must have been a sight .

[porthole]

No video. Just 5 of us sitting around at the time. 

Obviously we all jumped up to help, his one leg was caught under the bike and it had been running. Luckily for him his injuries were minor, scrapes, cuts and bruises. We did talk later about the benefits of quality straps and backing down with the clutch, although I doubt if he recalled any of it.

 

Surprisingly he had insurance adjusters out in the next day or two and it seemed as though the settlement was quick and proper.

[noteven]

erased

Edited April 10, 2018 by noteven

[rickeieio]

I learned my lesson with cheap straps.  Now it's Ancra or better.  I just threw away 8 straps that were supposed to be better......NOT.   And when they get worn, toss them.  Minimum of 4 straps per bike.  Always use a wheel chock, or at least something to prevent front wheel from turning sideways.

[porthole]

I use a Condor, which as I mentioned above is not bolted down.

5 straps total for each bike.

Two from the driving lights going out and forward, maybe 1" of compression.

Two straps from the passenger running boards going forward and out slightly, maybe 1/2" to 1" compression.

1 strap around the rear wheel pulling towards the rear.

After about 1 hour I will check the straps and usually they only stretch a bit in that first 30-60 minutes of the trip

[Hot Rod]

Full dress Harley.  ONE TIME I only used front straps.  Moving campgrounds in the Keys.  Only about 20 miles and low speed, figured why bother with the rear straps.  Rear of bike had shifted over about a foot, luckily I had about 13" to the wall because it didn't quite rub.  Never again, don't care how short the trip.

Condor chock bolted down using the quick release floor bracket.  Two 2" straps pulling the forks down and forward into the chock.  Two 1" straps from rear floorboards angled to the rear, figuring the biggest strain is braking, not acceleration.  And a fifth strap straight back from the rear wheel to a solid mounting point through the floor tied to trailer frame.  That fifth strap is the one that saves the bike in the truck/trailer front end collision.

I built 3' folding ramp extensions on the toyhauler door to lower the angle.  But really, as noted above, it just takes the confidence (ie balls) to go up or down at a brisk enough clip to maintain stability and balance and skip the air gap at the bottom of the ramp.  Real bikers never put their feet down anyway!

Did I mention the Condor is the best chock in the business?  A little pricey, but you can ride your 1000# loaded dresser right into it and jump off while it stands up nice and straight to tie it down.

[porthole]

I have two Condor's and when I'm home I use one in the garage and always park the bike on it.

[rickeieio]

I have two P.O.S. wheel chocks from Harbor Fright, and honestly, they're the best things I ever bought there.  I put them up against the tie down strip in the front, and DO NOT tie to the chock, rather to the floor anchors.

Honestly, anything to keep the front wheel straight helps tremendously.  The chock is just icing on the cake.

[porthole]

The hf chocks are a blatant copy of the BikePro brand, of which I also have two of. But after trying one Condor I ordered a second one and haven't used the Bike Pro's since.

[rbertalotto]

I extended my ramp on my TH. Much easier and way safer. You can read all about it with pictures here. Www.rvbprecision.com

[Twotoes]

I did not read all the posts so I may be repeating something already mentioned. When I had a toy hauler I found it was no problem just riding the bike in to load it. It was backing out that was the problem. I learned to leave the motor off, keep the bike in gear and just use the clutch as a break and I would not skid like I did when I used the front break with the motor running. I finally tired of the unloading and moved up to a Class A Diesel with a Hydralift on the rear. 

[lockmup68]

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/category/Motorcycle-Tiedown-Solutions

 

[noteven]

An added bonus to good rigging is if you flop your trailer on it's side your bike will be doing the fly on the floor which is now the wall so once the wrecker sets it upright you can back it out using the safe unloading techniques ^ and you are on your way. 

Edited April 14, 2018 by noteven
My therapist advised no one is interested in my stupid stories.

[Bikertap]

My question is more about the toy hauler itself. Does it need to be hooked up to the truck to load my Harley into the back. I have a 42 foot fifth wheel toy hauler. Does the jacks/stabilizing jacks need to be up or down when loading the bike?My question is the more about the toy hauler itself. Does it need to be hooked up to the truck to load my Harley into the back. I have a 42 foot fifth wheel toy hauler. Does the jacks/stabilizing jacks need to be up or down when loading the bike?

[rickeieio]

Simple physics.  Toy hauler weighs about 14k to 16k, and the bike  perhaps 800#.  Your toy hauler don't care about your bike.  Hitched or not, landing gear down, or not, the mass of the bike is insignificant.

[Darryl&Rita]

20 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Simple physics.  Toy hauler weighs about 14k to 16k, and the bike  perhaps 800#.  Your toy hauler don't care about your bike.  Hitched or not, landing gear down, or not, the mass of the bike is insignificant.

Best answer, yet.

ETA: Your pin weight is likely close to 3500 lbs, you won't teeter totter the trailer loading a motorcycle. It may wiggle a bit, so if it makes you feel better, drop the stabilizers.

Edited January 11, 2020 by Darryl&Rita

[noteven]

what rick said ^^

If your trailer’s garage has a dropped beaver tail area in the floor at the ramp you are likely good as far as clearance. If not, I think Discount Ramps has a calculator on their website where you can verify what ramp length and height is minimum based on your machine wheelbase and ground clearance. Snagging the break over point on the way in can be an oh no! moment.
 

Keep the eyes up, good clutch control, and commit when you ride in, but not too fast...the front of the garage arrives quickly 😀.  Roll out with engine off, in gear, using the clutch to control with engine compression. Commit and let it roll near the ground so the bike does not stop with the front wheel up the ramp rear wheel on the ground and your seat 4 ft in the air. Really take your time if the ground continues downhill off the ramp. Ask how I learned this one time 🤣.

[rickeieio]

 I should have added, we load Susan's Spyder with the trailer unhitched, and no stabilizers down.  As long as you're smooth, the person standing in the coach, out of harms way, doesn't even notice any movement.  The Spyder weighs right at 1000#, more than any rational motorcycle.  But then, who said we're rational???????

[Hot Rod]

On 1/11/2020 at 5:52 PM, rickeieio said:

 I should have added, we load Susan's Spyder with the trailer unhitched, and no stabilizers down.  As long as you're smooth, the person standing in the coach, out of harms way, doesn't even notice any movement.  The Spyder weighs right at 1000#, more than any rational motorcycle.  But then, who said we're rational???????

Dry weight on my Street Glide is 950, then add the tour pack, saddle bags full of crap, and my fat ass, and my rational motorcyle is heavier than that Spyder. 

But to the questions, zero worries on hitch or stabilzers in place or not, the trailer will not even notice you riding in.  Just go at a reasonably quick speed and let the momentum do the work.  The only way you get in trouble is if you chicken out and try to stop halfway up and back it down.  Not good.  Keep it rolling and trust your skills.