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Radiator reservoir leaking


rdickinson

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The radiator reservoir is leaking at the bottom but only when engine is running. I was told the whole thing needed replacing. Also there is a sensor at the bottom. Can it be tightened up or does it leak thru the sensor?

If it's the sensor, why not replace it only??

 

Seems suspicious to me.

 

Thanks

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It leaks only when running because that's when it's under pressure.

It (the overflow) should never be under pressure. It's vented to atmosphere. I might guess it leaks when running due to the increase in under hood temperature causing expansion of the plastic.

"There are No Experts, Do the Math!"

2014 Freightliner Cascadia DD16 600hp  1850ft-lb  18spd  3.31  260"wb
SpaceCraft S-470
SKP #131740

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Sorry to tell you this (or to add to it), but it is a "replace". They usually crack at the neck, but they can crack almost anywhere. There is no fix that is worth doing. Take a close look at the overflow tank as well, because now may be the time to do that. Especially look at the nipples on the return.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

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2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
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The plastic tank is not under pressure. I lost a filler cap last year and didn't lose fluids.

 

I thought the plastic fitting may have come loose. It's semi visible and thought it could be turned to tighten. It looks like the pipe fitting points down so orienting hose would not be an issue.

 

Truck is going in for door fix so I'll get a second opinion.

 

Is a tank from EBAY going to work? It would not come with a sensor. Price was less than 150$ but from Dealer over 400$ with sensor.

 

I'm wondering if the sensor is or could be an issue? Are they prone to leaking?

 

Where is the overflow tank. My problem is with the plastic tank I top up fluids with.

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Maybe my expansion tank is different. But, it is definitely under pressure when the truck is up to temp on the passenger side of it anyways. It is a pressure cap and is the highest point of the system. With that being said, I would replace the tank and be done with it if it was my truck. Cheap insurance at less than $150 and a little time. Jeremy

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I'm with the pressurized crowd. My Volvo owners manual says :

COOLING SYSTEM
Coolant Level Check
DO NOT remove the cap to the surge tank while
the engine and radiator are still hot and under
pressure. Scalding fluid and/or steam may be
blown out under pressure if the cap is taken off
too soon.

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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Here is a better explanation from Google. I am not nearly as well spoken. LOL

 

While our coolant gives us some wiggle room for running our engine, warmer weather may prove to be an issue. This is where the “pressure” of our cooling system comes into play. When you increase the pressure on a liquid, you raise its boiling point. Our coolant’s boiling temperature of 223° F (106° C) is when it is under 1 psi, which is why most cooling systems are designed to operate at 15 or 18 psi.

As the coolant heats up, it begins to expand and create additional pressure. By allowing that pressure to increase, the boiling point of the coolant is increased to around 257° F (125° C) at 15 psi. This gives us better performance from our cooling system as it can absorb additional heat from the engine without boiling.

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Apparently you are talking about what is called a "header tank" or swirl pot which is different from an overflow tank which is used to keep the circuit bleed during expansion (heating) and contraction (cooling)

"There are No Experts, Do the Math!"

2014 Freightliner Cascadia DD16 600hp  1850ft-lb  18spd  3.31  260"wb
SpaceCraft S-470
SKP #131740

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Apparently you are talking about what is called a "header tank" or swirl pot which is different from an overflow tank which is used to keep the circuit bleed during expansion (heating) and contraction (cooling)

Stekay, I only have one plastic "tank", of any sort, attached to my radiator. It is also the only filler cap in the system.

The internet calls it a "Volvo Truck Expansion Tank Assembly 20519037"

Looks kinda like this:

218zXfsS6sL.jpg

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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1 cap only, the leak is underneath. A white or yellowed plastic fitting into which I guess a sensor fastens into then a hose nipple below that. Before I start throwing more money down the drain, I want to see where the leak is coming from. Tank by itself is about 150$ on EBAY and over 400$ from a dealer with the sensor included.

 

Or something may be loose, lots of divots out of the road from Victoria to Southern Florida.

 

I-10 thru Louisiana was pretty good and so is Florida.

 

My thermostat rarely goes above 190 f

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Roger, check here, only $119.

http://www.advantagetruckparts.com/volvo-truck-parts/volvo-expansion-tank-20519037/

Says it includes sensor and cap...although it mentions filler and pressure caps

$30 bucks is $30 bucks, although eBay might have had free shipping.

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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Of course there is, it splits the tanks or makes a sensor on the bottom of a tank leak.

That's what I'm thinking... I can't recall ever seeing a design like that. A head gasket leak could be incredibly dangerous if that's the case.

"There are No Experts, Do the Math!"

2014 Freightliner Cascadia DD16 600hp  1850ft-lb  18spd  3.31  260"wb
SpaceCraft S-470
SKP #131740

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Roger - see those two small hoses that enter the top of the tank? Take a careful look at those nipples they attach to with the weird Volvo clamps. Those fittings are often the source of "a problem". Typically the nipple drys out and pieces break off. You can get by for awhile "mcgivering" it....but in the end you will have to replace the tank. Make sure you have no issue there - if you do, then along with the other issue then you should replace the tank. Also, examine the actual radiator closely along the top where the neck is.....you may have hairline cracks there, and an actual leak......look carefully. These are both common problems. And not just in Volvo's.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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