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sdixon747

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I made a system for mine. Posted the modification to modmyrv.com about 7 years ago. Still there, still working, still like it. Many other ways to accomplish this - most important concern is isolation so your potable water system has no chance of cross contamination from grey water.

 

Randy:

 

I read your modification article. I should have been more clear about my suggestion. Since this is a new build, I would modify (or find a commode) that would allow for two independent water delivery systems. I would not want to "T" fresh water and grey water together . . . just because of Murphy's Law. I am not sure if a marine toilet is plumped for dual feed water systems. The toilet would be plumbed with the standard fresh water deliver system, as the secondary system. The primary system would be, as you described, with a separate pump and a switch near the commode. The feed water would come directly from the grey water tank. I would put a serviceable filter before the pump . . . Murphy's Law again.

 

I have thought about retrofitting my trailer, but have not yet done it.

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Hmmm... V-nose with the kitchen in front. Looks like a good place for an outdoor kitchen, or at least a 2 burner and prep sink, small counter/work surface.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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An electrical schematic showing where all the low & hi power lines are hidden.

If an enclosed bellypan, one 1.5" conduit from front to back to pull wires for a camera, or anything else you want later

 

Good idea! When I do the first wire pull, I leave a piece of paracord rope in the conduit. I use this paracord to pull new wires and another piece of paracord, which is left in the conduit, again. It is easier to pull a piece of paracord than push a wire "snake" through conduit.

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Congrats and I can see that you are getting lots of help. The things we would not do without is the self levelers, heat pumps and separate washer and dryer.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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I've got one of these for wine. Just buy it by the box, dump it in, and the party begins. Mines the old JS6 model from back in the 1950's.

 

http://www.ebay.tv/sch/i.html?_sop=10&_nkw=jet+spray+drink+dispenser&_frs=1

 

But the wine cellar might be cheaper in the long run......

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Use grey water tank to flush your toilet. I always thought using fresh water to flush the toilet was a waste of precious white water supply.

 

 

Makes perfect sense esp for boondocking. Having it set up with a valve for fresh or grey water give flexibility and the soap in the grey could be helpful in keeping the bowl clean.

Is anyone doing or done this??

 

Sent you a PM in response to your PM to me. Did you get it?

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Sausage o magic is on order. With new paw print recognition technology

Now that's funny!

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Randy:

 

I read your modification article. I should have been more clear about my suggestion. Since this is a new build, I would modify (or find a commode) that would allow for two independent water delivery systems. I would not want to "T" fresh water and grey water together . . . just because of Murphy's Law. I am not sure if a marine toilet is plumped for dual feed water systems. The toilet would be plumbed with the standard fresh water deliver system, as the secondary system. The primary system would be, as you described, with a separate pump and a switch near the commode. The feed water would come directly from the grey water tank. I would put a serviceable filter before the pump . . . Murphy's Law again.

 

I have thought about retrofitting my trailer, but have not yet done it.

What about installing a check valve in each supply line and then feed the toilet so that nothing has to change there and no chance to backfeed any water to the other side.

Marcel

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What about installing a check valve in each supply line and then feed the toilet so that nothing has to change there and no chance to backfeed any water to the other side.

 

My plan is to add a separate pump, with a filter before the pump (to protect the pump) and add a separate line to the back of the toilet. When the pump is turned on, the bowl will be flushed or filled, depending on the user's "needs.". I do not intend to modify the existing plumbing. The two flush systems will be completely independent. In this way, there is ZERO chance of contaminating the fresh water tank. Also, it will be simple to use for technically challenged DW's. I am thinking of using a momentary on switch for the pump.

 

I am looking into fabricating a stainless steel plate, with tubing attached, that can be bolted between the toilet seat and the commode. I will then hook the "toilet" pump up to the end of the tubing outside the bowl. The other end of the tubing will be inside the bowl. The tubing inside the bowl will be removable so I can adjust the water flow direction, in the bowl.

 

BTW, we NEVER put food down the drains. Our plates and utensils are wiped clean, with paper towels, before they are washed in the sink.

 

For me, while boon docking, a huge waste of water is letting the water run to get the hot water to the faucet of shower head. I would love to have a recirculation system where I could recirculate the water back to the fresh water tank until the water, exiting the faucet (or shower head) is at the desired temperature.

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Unless I missed it, how about the method for pulling in your favorite TV show(s)? Personally, one of the most confusing topics of conversation I've come across is the design of satellite systems.

2012 F350 KR CC DRW w/ some stuff
2019 Arctic Fox 32-5M
Cindy and Tom, Kasey and Maggie (our Newfie and Berner)
Oh...I forgot the five kids.

 

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We have just traveled 2900 miles since this thread has started, so I did not have time to respond.

 

But this is going to be a different thought all together .

 

First with a bumper pull you cannot do a ninety degree turn.

 

So with a convention 5thwheel design lets just plan on not turning 90 degrees.

 

I have an sliding hitch for when we have the jeep loaded. I still cannot turn 90 degrees. Although close. I have just backed into a tight site at our present location. Get out and look. Have someone watch or how about a camera to watch the clearance.

 

That may sound like a lot todo.

 

But let's look at something different . With a conventional 5thwheel design. How about installing one of Henry's hitches on the 5thwheel upside down.

Since you are building custom they can fabricate the frame to accommodate this situation .

Then you will need to change your bed to have a pin sticking up at the back of the bed. Now my pin location centerline is 17" behind my end of the bed. With the hitch extended to accommodate the vehicle when it is loaded.

 

There more thinking about this idea that needs to be addressed, but it may be something to think about.

 

How much room will you loose with bumper pull compared to a conventional 5thwheel design. That is with the same total length.

 

 

Have fun with your new build Steve &Gail.

 

Safe Travels , Vern

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Lots of good information here already. I am especially interested in seeing if you can get a David/Jack electrical system and a New Horizons plumbing system in your Spacecraft. It could be pricey. One of the things with my Spacecraft is it may not have enough air exchange and bathroom ventilation. I have plans to attempt a remedy with an exhaust fan I just don't want to have to go through the roof. If I were to build again I would have the space between the frame rails used for the water tanks. I'd make sure the A/C system had the cold air going up through the center of the trailer instead of along an outside wall. I would go with Davids idea of a fluid radiant floor heating system with the basement floor being insulated and not the floor between the basement and the living area.

 

The frameless windows are OK, but there is something about them that I just don't really like. I liked the windows on one of the expedition RV's that you could close an outside cover and not really know there was a window there for travel but when open you had a good view and a built in shade cover. Not sure of the cost of that option.

 

Looking forward to all the other ideas.

 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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  • 1 month later...

I hate to think I was a topic killer, but no responses since mine in November? I'm sure more of you want to spend Steve's money, don't you? Here is a friendly bump.

 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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  • 8 months later...

Hey Steve, I read your comment about going to Spacecraft soon.  It sounds like it will be done any day now.  What's the latest on the design, can you share or will you reveal at the National Rally?

 

Kevin and June

2013 Volvo VNL 730    D13 Eco-Torque @ 425  Ratio 2.47 

2014 DRV 36TKSB3 

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15 hours ago, Sculptor said:

Hey Steve, I read your comment about going to Spacecraft soon.  It sounds like it will be done any day now.  What's the latest on the design, can you share or will you reveal at the National Rally?

 

I think it is being kept under "wraps" until the Rally. But let me tell you.....it will blow your socks off. And this from a guy that builds high end custom rigs. :)

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

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2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
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19 hours ago, Jack Mayer said:

I think it is being kept under "wraps" until the Rally. But let me tell you.....it will blow your socks off. And this from a guy that builds high end custom rigs. :)

Duly impressed!  I have a pretty good imagination,  but  I have noticed that you guys always set the bar 5 or 10 steps higher.  

Kevin and June

2013 Volvo VNL 730    D13 Eco-Torque @ 425  Ratio 2.47 

2014 DRV 36TKSB3 

Signature.jpegmKgUJbbl.jpg

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Like Jack said, it's being kept under wraps until the National HDT Rally where we will do the reveal. I haven't seen the finished product yet, but from the photos I've seen, it's spectacular! Lots of unique features not found anywhere else.

 

Steve & Gail

2000 Volvo VNL660 Autoshift Detroit 60 12.7 "Semi Crazy"

2016 smart "Lil Crazy"

2018 Space Craft 48' TT "The Nut House"

KJ4YGY & KK4CTE

 

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