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Dometic Fridge has no power


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Since the panel has power now, I'm not sure what to do to prevent that in the future.

On the other front, I restarted the fridge four times (per the operation manual) and it seems to be running on LP just fine for the last 30 minutes.  Who knew?  Fingers crossed that this is all it needed.

Thank you for your quick and courteous assistance.

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3 hours ago, Jody W said:

Thank you for your quick and courteous assistance.

Welcome to the Escapee forums.  As a suggestion, in the future, you probably should start a new thread in situations like this as the one you tagged on to is old enough that not everyone reads it. 

Happy to have you join us, but sorry it took problems to bring you here.  😊

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
On 9/25/2017 at 4:07 PM, Kirk W said:

The lack of anything on the display lists 4 things to check.

Have you verified that there is 12V-dc power at the terminal block in the rear of the refrigerator? You should find that terminal block on the floor of the space inside of the rear access panel and usually, it is to the left side, near the 120V power outlet. If you do not have power there, you must find what the course is. In most cases, there is a fuse on the  RV's 12V distribution panel that supplies it. There is also a 3A fuse on the main circuit board for the 12V supply. Either of those will give the symptom that you have. 

My refrigerator was having the same issues as everyone else, no power.  After checking all fuses and replacing the circuit board with still no power, I found out that there is a “Snap” fuse located on the propane gas vent that went bad.  This is a fuse that will cut the 12volt power off to the fridge if the stack over heats reducing risk of fire.  It also cuts power to the gas valve as well.  After replacing this “snap” fuse, power was restored to the circuit board and everything is working as it should.  Wish I had known about it before replacing the circuit board.  $30 snap fuse, while circuit board cost me $120.  Still better than replacing entire refrigerator. 

Good luck and I hope this information helps someone else. 

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  • 1 month later...

Display has no power on a dometic rm 3663 fridge.....I’m kinda lost to what to test next

here is what I have done

chk 12v terminal block for pwr

chk 110 ac

chk 5amp fuse

chk 3 amp

by passed control board .......heating element heated

fridge temp dropped to 33 degrees in few hours

chk displayed connection and all connection for good connections

am i right to think replace display circuit board?

 

 

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9 hours ago, Stevehd said:

am i right to think replace display circuit board?

You might be, but troubleshooting by replacing parts can get very expensive since there are several other possibilities, including the upper circuit board and you are only guessing at this point. 

 

9 hours ago, Stevehd said:

by passed control board .......heating element heated

This action demonstrates that your cooling unit is working and that the heating element is good, but nothing more. Am I correct to assume that you supplied 120V power directly to the heater with jumpers and it was not connected to any of the controls? That is a good test for those 2 items, but since all of the indications and control functions are powered by 12V power, it doesn't check any part of that so the problem could be just about anywhere in that part of your refrigerator. I suggest that you start by downloading a copy of this service manual from Bryant RV. Pages 16 & 17 give you information related to checking both circuit boards.  

Before you do this I suggest that you check the safety device that is mounted in the burner area and wired directly into the 12V power of the refrigerator. The schematic in the download doesn't show it but there was an update for safety that put an over temperature device to protect the RV from an overheated burner. It is probably in the red wire between the terminal block and the main circuit board. You should be able to trace that wire as I suspect that is likely to be your problem. Some of them are resettable and others must be replaced. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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How are you determining there's power to the board? The points you referenced above are the test points for 12v power. J4 is +12v, J10 is ground.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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  • 3 months later...

I have a Dometic DM2652 refigerator that has no power to it, I checked the 12 volt dc and 120 ac all good, checked fuses on circuit board, heat sensor all good. I change out the circuit board and put a new one in, figures it may be the circuit board. Still nothing, checker the breaker on the thermofuse and it reset, the power came on. A little while later is all shut off. so I press the thermofuse breaker again , all power came on again then a little while later it shut off again. is there anything else I can check or need to change before I pull it out and get a new one????

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Check the temperature where the thermo fuse is mounted. Determine whether you have a temperature problem, or a hardware issue. 

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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  • 4 months later...

The thermal fuse is NOT located on the circuit board. The thermal fuse should be 152 C fuse connected inline from the 12 volt connection to the heating tower and connected to reset switch.

Should be a sleeved slip on heat shield on the wire over the thermal fuse. If the thermo fuse trips, its gets weak...several trips it is done. Replace it. You need to order a new thermo fuse and re-wire it inline yourself

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Guys, I figured out the problem with mine and I hope this helps out someone in the future so you can get your rig fixed fast. Dometic, Forest River were not able to to talk me through this so save some money and read this!

My Rig is a 2020 Wildwood Heritage Glen HL. 

My fridge is a Dometic DM2852RBFX.

Issue: Fridge was Deader than disco. No Power at all. 

Solution: Blown 152 celsius/ 303 Fahrenheit Thermo fuse (Not Thermal Fuse aka thermal (hi-limit/resettable) switch)

Cause: Drove home with fridge on propane in windy conditions. 

I know enough about electronics to be able to frustrate myself. I tested fuses, traced 12 volts, replaced both mainboard and eyebrow board and still no luck. 

I ended up finding a tucked away therm-o fuse tucked off of (1) leg of the thermal (hi-limit/resettable) switch on the stack just above the ignition module. Parts availlible on Amazon for about 10 bucks. You will need to crimp/solder in the new thermo-fuse. 

The Therm-O fuse comes off of (1) leg of the thermal fuse. (Images attached)

 

This is 12 volts DC. Please be smart and make sure breaker is off, battery disconnect is off, and nothing is energized. 

Hope this helps.

Therm-O.jpg

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Just snake how did you know if this hi limit resettable was bad? I feel this is my problem also. How would you test it? I have 12 volt power on one side but not the other. Thanks

 

UPDATE:

I used a piece of wire and went around the hi limit fuse and my fridge fired right up. Going to order a new one. Thanks to all for this thread my fridge had all the same symptoms NO POWER narrowed it down to this fuse and or link just needed someone to confirm my suspicion.

Edited by Cycorider
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You can measure them to see if they are open quite easily. If power is applied and you put one meter lead on each terminal and measure across the device, if it is closed you will measure 0V but if it is open you will read 12V or whatever the supply voltage is. 

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Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, we just had this exact problem.  Dometic DM2882, no lights on the control board, and won’t work on electric or propane.  We checked the fuses inside the cabin of the RV, but all those fuses and CB’s were good and reset.  After some research, we learned of the 3Amp and 5Amp fuses behind the fridge.  You access these from the panel on the outside of the RV.  The 3 amp fuse was good but the 5 amp was obviously blown.  We were excited that this should fix it, but it didn’t.  Still no power!  So, with the help of google and more YouTube, we learned about the thermofuse and thermal switch. The thermofuse is in-line between the 12vdc terminal board and the exhaust.  That wire has a black heat shrink around it and is tucked away.  After disconnecting the wire from the thermal switch, and sliding back the heat shrink, I removed the thermofuse from the wire and twistes the two wire ends together.  I reconnected power and the battery, and it worked!! The thermofuse was the culprit, preventing the needed 12vdc from getting to the circuit board.  

B0D8D69F-C708-4DAC-A646-BF5E8632BC10.jpeg

7D49FBE7-1930-42F1-BF41-FD286911C498.jpeg

Edited by Scottco
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  • 10 months later...

Jeff t, welcome to the Escapee forums! If you do not get help here I suggest that you start a new thread on this forum, as this one goes back a long time and some may not bother to read it. 

The Dometic 2652 is covered by this service manual from Bryant RV Service.

If the refrigerator has no power, do other 12V systems have power such as your lights, your water pump, the water heater, and/or furnace? That is a quick way to know if you lost 12V power as your refrigerator must have 12V to operate the control systems, even if operating on propane or from 120V shore power.  Does the interior light come on when you open the refrigerator door? If none of those work you need to look for a 12V problem and not a refrigerator problem. If those things do work the first thing to check is the 3A fuse that is located on the power circuit board in the back of your refrigerator. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 6/12/2021 at 11:24 AM, Kirk W said:

Jeff t, welcome to the Escapee forums! If you do not get help here I suggest that you start a new thread on this forum, as this one goes back a long time and some may not bother to read it. 

The Dometic 2652 is covered by this service manual from Bryant RV Service.

If the refrigerator has no power, do other 12V systems have power such as your lights, your water pump, the water heater, and/or furnace? That is a quick way to know if you lost 12V power as your refrigerator must have 12V to operate the control systems, even if operating on propane or from 120V shore power.  Does the interior light come on when you open the refrigerator door? If none of those work you need to look for a 12V problem and not a refrigerator problem. If those things do work the first thing to check is the 3A fuse that is located on the power circuit board in the back of your refrigerator. 

Kirk:

I have an interesting twist on this. I keep the fridge on since I am hooked up to A/C when home. The power went out on that line and the fridge switched to Propane. After a while it ran the battery down to the point where the solenoid would go click click click. That noise alerted me to the problem. I turned off the fridge, restored the A/C and charged the system. Now the fridge will not turn on as if it has no power. No lights, etc. I checked all the basics like 12+ volts at the junction box, J4 and the two thermal protection devices. 

This is where it gets weird. If I turn on the fridge in either Auto or Gas mode, the voltage that goes to J4 drops from 12+ to only about 2.5 volts. Any idea?

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46 minutes ago, AFM said:

If I turn on the fridge in either Auto or Gas mode, the voltage that goes to J4 drops from 12+ to only about 2.5 volts. Any idea?

Not Kirk, but with that kind of volt drop, you have a bad connection somewhere. Run a jumper wire back to a good ground point, connect it to the negative lead of your meter. Repeat the test. If you see good voltage, you have a bad ground connection. If the voltage continues to drop, there's a bad connection in the power wiring.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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Running a temporary wire isn't a bad idea, but before you do that, check that your battery is not the problem. A good battery that is fully charged should be able to power the control circuitry of a refrigerator for several days.  Are you currently connected to 120V shore power? If so, try lifting the negative cable from the battery, taking it out of the circuit and thus getting your 12V power from the converter. Like Darryl, I am skeptical of this being a problem in the refrigerator and a good way to verify or eliminate that suspeicion is to get a different source of 12V power. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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Thanks both. I am sure it is not the battery or the wiring to the junction block where the 12v connects to the refrigerator. That voltage stays constant when I turn it on. (I also use the trailer as a Ham Radio Shack and all the radios and lights work fine even with the trailer only on battery. I have a pair of 1000 Ah marine batteries up front. ) I will jump +12V right to J4 bypassing the thermal cut-offs and see if maybe they are the problem and will let you know.

 

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