Front end is all over the road

[Kirk W]

I have a 2007, 26 ft Fleetwood Fiesta with 8000 miles and this thing is awful to drive!...........................

I believe its a Chevy. It says Vortec and someone said that's a Chevy. ????

There were two chassis choices back in 2001, Ford and Workhorse. The Vortec was a GM engine powered Workhorse chassis. Workhorse is no longer in business, but support is still available. Based upon the published brochure the chassis of the 26Y has a GVWR of 16,000# , a length of 27' and the wheelbase is 158". That figures to be about a 44% wheelbase ratio, which is on the weak side. You may find that something like a trac bar or panhard bar would help significantly. Steering stabilizers will probably help also, if yours does not already have one installed. It probably also has coil front springs with air bags and properly inflating those air bags is very important.

[LindaH]

What is the wheelbase-to-length ratio of your Class A? If less than 50%, that could be part of the handling problem. (On edit: Kirk answered that question...44%!)

 

I agree with others who have said to have your motorhome weighed at each tire. If a tire, or a side, is either overweight or weighs significantly more than the other tires/sides, you'll want to rearrange items on the inside and outside storage compartments.

 

If the fresh water tank is behind the rear axle, you'll want to travel with it empty, or just a few gallons to get you to your next stop.

 

Also make sure your tires are properly inflated according to the weights you got when you had it weighed.

 

Finally, have an alignment done (this is something Henderson's Line-Up does, too).

 

I'd do all of the above *before* starting to throw expensive add-ons to your rig.

 

http://www.hendersonslineup.com/

[Sehc]

Did the rv place in Redding say anything about loose parts or were they selling add on aftermarket stuff? If nothing loose or failing, a 3 hour trip to Oregon will be ok. Any truck mechanic can diagnose dangerous parts, and I recommend you find out if something is ready to brake or fall off the steering.

[maggie blair]

Have had several Chevy chassis class A,s. (P30)

Check front sir bags. PSI should be about 70 to stiffen up the coil springs. Big reason front end floats.

I installed Steer Safe on my MH,s.

Check to see if after market air bags were installed on rear end.

Where are fresh water and waste tanks. If too close to rear end. They can make front end float if too full.

I don't think I have air bags. this is a pretty basic RV. 26 ft Fleetwood Fiesta 2007. Tanks are right over the back tires. A neighbor here in the RV park said my cushings or bushings (can't remember) are leaking. The RV only has 8500 miles on it. I need to find a good honest RV mechanic who will fix the stuff that needs to be fixed and not over-charge me by doing unnecessary repairs.

[maggie blair]

Did the rv place in Redding say anything about loose parts or were they selling add on aftermarket stuff? If nothing loose or failing, a 3 hour trip to Oregon will be ok. Any truck mechanic can diagnose dangerous parts, and I recommend you find out if something is ready to brake or fall off the steering.

 

No they didn't even look under the RV. Just wanted to sell me 5000.00 worth of stuff to fix it up.

[maggie blair]

What is the wheelbase-to-length ratio of your Class A? If less than 50%, that could be part of the handling problem. (On edit: Kirk answered that question...44%!)

 

I agree with others who have said to have your motorhome weighed at each tire. If a tire, or a side, is either overweight or weighs significantly more than the other tires/sides, you'll want to rearrange items on the inside and outside storage compartments.

 

If the fresh water tank is behind the rear axle, you'll want to travel with it empty, or just a few gallons to get you to your next stop.

 

Also make sure your tires are properly inflated according to the weights you got when you had it weighed.

 

Finally, have an alignment done (this is something Henderson's Line-Up does, too).

 

I'd do all of the above *before* starting to throw expensive add-ons to your rig.

 

http://www.hendersonslineup.com/

 

Do you know the type of place to look for that weighs each tire? Should I do that with my toad included? Henderson's sounds like a good honest place. It might be worth the trip....

[LindaH]

Do you know the type of place to look for that weighs each tire? Should I do that with my toad included? Henderson's sounds like a good honest place. It might be worth the trip....

Henderson's Line-Up (see link in my previous post) does this as part of their Road Performance Assessment. If you'll be towing a vehicle, then, yes, the toad should be hooked up when weighed. (I don't know if weighing a motorhome w/toad is like weighing a trailer/tow vehicle combination. In that case, the truck is weighed separately, then both together when hooked up. I would, at least, take your toad with you when you get your motorhome weighed...they'll let you know what you need to do.)

 

The Escapees RV Club also has the SmartWeigh scales at their parks in Congress, AZ, Livingston, TX, and Bushnell, FL. Of course, all of those are pretty far from where you are currently...Henderson's Line-Up would be much closer and they can do more than just weigh your motorhome.

 

There may be places nearer to you that can do the same things as Henderson's, but I'm not aware of any. Maybe someone here will have some additional information.

[fly2low]

Three separate people have recommended the same place. That should say something.

 

Toad should not effect wheel weights. The bar might, but the toad won't.

[Kirk W]

Do you know the type of place to look for that weighs each tire? Should I do that with my toad included?

Getting individual wheel weights can be difficult unless you attend an RV rally where it is being done or go to it. The Escapees provide that service at Escapades an other gatherings as well as the 3 Smart Weigh locations which you can visit. There are other organizations who do this sort of weighing, but it can be difficult to know where to find them. If you have no other resource, nearly all truck stops can weigh you for a small fee and that will give you the weights of each axle, which is far better than no weight knowledge at all. If you can find a truck scale that has no side barriers, you can get wheel weights by weighing first with all wheels on the RV pads, then a second time with only one side on the pads, preferably with that set of wheels centered on the pads and the other side off of the scale. That will give you one side and by subtracting the second weight of each axle from the first you can determine what the weights are for the other side.

 

If you only have the axle weights, that is far better than nothing at all and it will tell you if you are overloaded on an axle or on the entire RV when compared to your axle weight ratings and your GVWR. If you have not done that, I suggest that you do so as soon as possible so that you know where you stand now. If the weights are far off, it will cause handling problems that no amount of extra equipment will make go away. It can also effect your tire wear.

[maggie blair]

 

Maggie,

I strongly recommend you find a honest professional to assist you. While checking the steering joints are not difficult, you do need to have a very good idea of what you are looking at and just how much play is normal and how much is a problem.

 

I don't mean to keep harping on Henderson's but they have a very good reputation with RV'ers. We took our 29' class A Winnebago to them and were well treated. We didn't buy all the add on products they suggested, but did buy the ones I felt would help in my specific case.

Thanks again. Yes Eugene sounds like the place to go. It's a 5-6 hour drive and over 300 miles so I will have to shop locally first and get estimates. I will be working until June 30th so don't have much time to travel that far yet. I will be headed to Seattle on July 1st so I may wait and see Hendersons at that time.

[maggie blair]

Thanks to everyone for the valuable information. I am so grateful to be an Escapee and have access to this site. Everyone is so helpful and for a Newbie this site is so advantageous! I am learning so much and truly appreciate the input from everyone!

Thanks again!

Maggie and the girls

[Al F]

To just get the rig weighed, you can go to the CAT scales at the truck stop located at: I-5 Exit 673 - Knighton Rd in Redding. It will be a little intimidating pulling into the truck stop and getting on the scale, but just take it slow and go on in.

 

Once you get to the scale, look on the scale as you drive on to the scale, You will see individual sections of what looks like concrete road. Just drive forward until your front tires are on the last section you get to and the rear tires are on the next to the last section. As I remember there are 3 sections of the scale, the farthermost section is for the front tires, the middle is for the rear tires, and the other is for the trailer tires.

 

Once your RV is on the scale, go to the little box on the left side at the end of the scale and punch the call button. Tell them you want to weight your RV for private or personal use. Once they get the reading the will tell you to drive on off and come inside to get your weights and pay.

[Al F]

Henderson's is in Grants Pass about 175 miles from Redding, not Eugene.

[RVTEN]

If you do not have the old Chevy P30 chassis which Workhorse still used. Than you most likely have there W20 chassis which was there smallest chassis at the time. No coil springs.I had a Winny Adventurer on it. I added Steer Safe to it.

[Kirk W]

If you do not have the old Chevy P30 chassis which Workhorse still used. Than you most likely have there W20 chassis which was there smallest chassis at the time. No coil springs.I had a Winny Adventurer on it. I added Steer Safe to it.

If you check the Workhorse chassis guide(page 136), the 2007 with a 158.5" wheelbase is a W16 series chassis, cross referencing the chassis guide with the Fleetwood Fiesta brochure. The last year for the P series chassis was 2005.

[Ronbo]

Stop at any closed scale in Oregon. They leave them on. Stop and write down the weight as each axle moves onto scale. Back up and do it again but with only one side going into scale. This will give you each wheel weight. Great starting place.

[maggie blair]

There were two chassis choices back in 2001, Ford and Workhorse. The Vortec was a GM engine powered Workhorse chassis. Workhorse is no longer in business, but support is still available. Based upon the published brochure the chassis of the 26Y has a GVWR of 16,000# , a length of 27' and the wheelbase is 158". That figures to be about a 44% wheelbase ratio, which is on the weak side. You may find that something like a trac bar or panhard bar would help significantly. Steering stabilizers will probably help also, if yours does not already have one installed. It probably also has coil front springs with air bags and properly inflating those air bags is very important.

Thanks so much Kirk! you are like the most amazing find for a Newbie like myself! I am printing out all of your info and saving it in a file. Your website is amazing too!

[maggie blair]

Stop at any closed scale in Oregon. They leave them on. Stop and write down the weight as each axle moves onto scale. Back up and do it again but with only one side going into scale. This will give you each wheel weight. Great starting place.

Thanks so much!

[maggie blair]

Have had several Chevy chassis class A,s. (P30)

Check front sir bags. PSI should be about 70 to stiffen up the coil springs. Big reason front end floats.

I installed Steer Safe on my MH,s.

Check to see if after market air bags were installed on rear end.

Where are fresh water and waste tanks. If too close to rear end. They can make front end float if too full.

I think its a Ford Vortex.

[maggie blair]

 

Maggie,

I strongly recommend you find a honest professional to assist you. While checking the steering joints are not difficult, you do need to have a very good idea of what you are looking at and just how much play is normal and how much is a problem.

 

I don't mean to keep harping on Henderson's but they have a very good reputation with RV'ers. We took our 29' class A Winnebago to them and were well treated. We didn't buy all the add on products they suggested, but did buy the ones I felt would help in my specific case.

Thanks so much. I wish it wasn't 6 hours and 300 miles away. I work full-time so it's hard to go that far until after June 30th when I retire.

[Kirk W]

I think its a Ford Vortex.

If Vortec, it is a GM engine and that means a Workhorse chassis. The Ford engine in called a Triton and is a V-10.

[fly2low]

If you do decide to go to Henderson's, I would make the appointment asap. They are booked 2-3 weeks out.

 

You will want a Road Performance Assessment. An experienced tech will take your vehicle out for a test drive. Individual wheel weights are part of the deal. From this information, they will make recommendations, and you choose which you want done. Like others, I did not have everything done, but what I did have done made a heck of a difference.

[Kirk W]

While I agree that a trip to Henderson's is likely in order, I also think that you should start with a trip to the local scale ASAP so that you know if you are severely over loaded. Any truck stop can at least give you axle weights and that is a good first step since you don't yet know where you are on weight. First you need to check total weight to GVWR, then compare the axle weights to those ratings for the RV. Once you know where you stand there it is time to move to the next step. That much you can do before you travel a long distance.

[maggie blair]

If you check the Workhorse chassis guide(page 136), the 2007 with a 158.5" wheelbase is a W16 series chassis, cross referencing the chassis guide with the Fleetwood Fiesta brochure. The last year for the P series chassis was 2005.

The Fiesta Brochure is for the 2006 Fleetwood Fiesta. Would that make a difference. Mine is a 2007,

[maggie blair]

While I agree that a trip to Henderson's is likely in order, I also think that you should start with a trip to the local scale ASAP so that you know if you are severely over loaded. Any truck stop can at least give you axle weights and that is a good first step since you don't yet know where you are on weight. First you need to check total weight to GVWR, then compare the axle weights to those ratings for the RV. Once you know where you stand there it is time to move to the next step. That much you can do before you travel a long distance.

I will get the RV weighed next and then proceed with caution. I was really thinking I would only have to figure out where to put the stuff in the RV and not have to deal with the mechanics. No such luck. Thanks again for your help. I cannot drive this RV any distance until I get the play out of the front. It's very scary to be wandering down the road and not feel like I have control of the RV. That's without the toad so I cannot imagine what it would be like towing my car. P.S. CW is still stalling on fixing the wiring.... Making promises but not walking their talk...