maveric Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Reading these pages is really getting me into the mood to start on my trailer conversion...However, the -28* bitter cold is making me want to sit in front of the computer and read about someone else working on their stuff. Looks good guys. Quality work. Chris & Tonya '99 Freightliner FLD120, '01 Wabash Toyhauler (32' garage, 20' LQ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted December 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 We have trailer builds in mind, too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Just incredible. What the HECK are they gonna get that titled as??? How may different units did you buy to assemble that....the original truck, 2 semis, the crane, ..... About the quality of work...Jealous just doesn't cut it! I loved following Roosters build, now this, and trailers coming. Just wow. I too have 5 kids, the eldest out of college. BTW- Don't count on them leaving the house any time soon! I am a bit...interested... in how the engine swap comes out, Rooster. I have two farm tractors, about the same size/weight, one with a DTI466 and one with a 8.3 Cummins. The 466 is rated at 230, the 8.3 is 235, and I don't notice all that much difference in HP. The 8.3 does have way more lugging torque. Obviously, OTR engines are different, but the comparison will be interesting. No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted December 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Easy, it's already titled as a 58 Diamond T Motorcoach. Collision shops can replace frames due to damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoosterBooster Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 yeah , i`m jealous of John`s "Antique vehicle" plates the donors chassis was indeed a basket case of bugger welds and redneck engineering as some my noticed we changed the truck from a "setback" axle to a "conventional forward" layout our inspiration was the famous IH "Westcoaster" ; so as things progress the cowl and hood side will be altered to fit the teardrop fenders due to lack of underhood space (and the CFM hungry engine) we plan to fill the gained space with twin air cleaners the engine/trans is now also set back 2" (compared to the original Pete 379 location) due to radiator/charge cooler space needs i like to joke that BMW would call this a "midship engine" layout ... , front axle will definitely not be overweight " Diamonds R 4 ever " "class of`95" Pete 379 "Toterhome": Cummins N14, Super10, single axle, 278" WB, 162" sleeper ... sold current project; 1952 Diamond T, Cummins 8.3l @ 375hp/ 800ft lbs, single axle, 239" WB, 1954 Spartan 137" air ride sleeper .... full timing in a 39 foot "sticks & staples POS" Toyhauler (planing to build an all aluminum 42-45 foot replacement soon) ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tippey Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 This build is going to need a special name when she rolls out on her own for the first time. Let us know what you're thinking if you will give him/her a name. Really Nice piece of artwork too! "GAR" is a 2001 White Volvo 660 singled long w/ VED12 465 3.58 - Eaton Fuller Auto-shift 10spd. 3 pedal- Onan QD 6500 Gen. (aka "Joyrider") 2010 Carriage Royals International 36MAX1 w/ MORryde IS, G114's 17.5" wheels, (SOLD) 2014 Honda CRV AWD (ready to flat tow but driven separately by my DW! Class of 2016 Full-Timers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 This build is going to need a special name when she rolls out on her own for the first time. Let us know what you're thinking if you will give him/her a name. Really Nice piece of artwork too! It was named in 1972, when it was built the second time. "Diamond Jim". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldRush Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 What's the direct link to the Pirate thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Can't get the link to post but go to pirate 4x4 Scroll down to tow rigs and look for Diamond Jim - diamond T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHIEFWAHO Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 What's the direct link to the Pirate thread? http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/2096057-diamond-jim-diamond-t-923b.html 1999 Volvo VNL610, Cummins M11 - 350/400 HP, 10 speed Rockwell - 'CHIEF' Custom flatbed with TrailerSaver air hitch. 3 cyl 8000 watt Kubota diesel generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 We have trailer builds in mind, too Hi grendel & RoosterBooster - could your wall and floor construction be modified easily to accept 3 to 3-1/2 inches of sprayed polyurethane closed cell foam insulation for about an R20? And 7 inches for R40 or so in the roof? Would you furr out the structure or just use 3-1/2 in. cross section material for frames? "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoosterBooster Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 noteven imho i would furr it out unfortunately aluminum is an excellent "bridge" or thermal conductor (is that the right words in English?) we used .125" thick and 1.75" deep Zees for the wall construction ... together with the .125" skin this is plenty of strength on my sleeper i copied the 60+ year old (but still up to date) donor Spartan aircraft co trailer construction: .250" plywood strips riveted to the aluminum spars to act as glue & nail surface for the interior paneling this reduces the heat transfer as well as exposed fasteners that penetrate into the aluminum and "bleed" from the condensation so in your case i would probably go with 2" upright Zees and 1.5" vertical wood strips to increase insulation over the aluminum (or may furr the aluminum with 3/4" ply strips and glue/staple a second 3/4 " ply layer over the first one) i usually try to avoid wood (and staples ) in any road going construction, but with that wall thickness, the rigidity of the aluminum monocoque and the added strength of spray-foam insulation i dont think anything will ever come loose " Diamonds R 4 ever " "class of`95" Pete 379 "Toterhome": Cummins N14, Super10, single axle, 278" WB, 162" sleeper ... sold current project; 1952 Diamond T, Cummins 8.3l @ 375hp/ 800ft lbs, single axle, 239" WB, 1954 Spartan 137" air ride sleeper .... full timing in a 39 foot "sticks & staples POS" Toyhauler (planing to build an all aluminum 42-45 foot replacement soon) ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hi grendel & RoosterBooster - could your wall and floor construction be modified easily to accept 3 to 3-1/2 inches of sprayed polyurethane closed cell foam insulation for about an R20? And 7 inches for R40 or so in the roof? Would you furr out the structure or just use 3-1/2 in. cross section material for frames? For a sleeper? No. 3.5" walls are way too thick. The trailer will be better insulated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 For a sleeper? No. 3.5" walls are way too thick. The trailer will be better insulated. No a 4 season capable trailer... "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 No a 4 season capable trailer... That is sort of the plan for mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldRush Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 This looks pretty cool too but your retro-build is insane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted January 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Thought about something like that, but with the back of an FLT. Instead, that will be the trailer... that or a Crowne. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cochran Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 I have not been on for awhile but boy have I missed some stuff. Like this build!!!!! I have nothing but admiration for your build displaying talent and ingenuity i wish had a fraction. I will be following your build with great anticipation. Awesome job. 2019 Thor Chateau 28E on a Ford E450 chassis. Maybe awhile but will get a new picture forgive one up there it is my old rig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted January 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 Started to plan out the rear "bed". It will be a hauler style bed, but with bed sides that make it look like a 50's wrecker: That's sort of the design that RB and I did, before we went with longer rails, etc. The bedsides will be higher and pin into a head ache rack. They will match the angle of the trim that came from the Spartan trailer we took apart: I have 10' of bare frame rail behind the sleeper (please ignore all the crap it's the cooling stack: and 36" behind the rear axle: So, I want a bed with stairs to get on the frame and cabinets that match for the sleeper skirts that will hide the fuel tanks, the generator/APU etc. I also want a sliding air hitch. Diamond <Jim> is about 31' long... I need to move my trailer around to get maximum length and still be legal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star Dreamer Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 A couple of things to consider: With high bed sides, you need to watch how high and still be able to turn a 5th wheel trailer without it hitting the bed sides especially in off camber turns. You will find that most to not make the bed higher than the fifth wheel plate at the rear for this reason and also to allow access to the arm to release the hitch pin. The higher the sides the more steps you will need. If you want the steps usable when a trailer is hooked up you have to have them near the front of the bed and it does not look like you have much room in front of the forward rear axle. Some people have located a step pocket in the bed sides and we almost did that with our bed. Instead we incorporated a side step rail to match the step rail on our cab. We also have can make the fenders you show in your picture. With trailer unhooked, we use the rear bumper, hitch tunnel and the lower deck area to step up on our rear deck: There have been a couple of people that have made sliding fifth wheels here is a picture of one of them, you will not get much length adjustment and legal length will depend on which state you are traveling in and if you will be non commercial. For RV's, MN is 75' but many others are 65' and some even less. You may need a very short trailer with a 31' truck. Ours is moveable, but has to be unbolted and repositioned. It is in the forward most position now and can be moved rearward if we ever get a smart car. This was an early picture prior to putting the step rails on.: Dave 2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch 2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you! Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/ for much more info on HDT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted January 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 Thanks for the info. Bed sides are for bob tailing. I am building the trailers, so I can do what I want with pin height, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 Thanks for the info. Bed sides are for bob tailing. I am building the trailers, so I can do what I want with pin height, etc. While you can do as you please with your trailer.consider if you ever have to use another vehicle to move it or, if you sell it. I had considered removing the pin box on my trailer and raising the hitch, it would make for a very difficult move with any other truck. Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grendel Posted January 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 While you can do as you please with your trailer.consider if you ever have to use another vehicle to move it or, if you sell it. I had considered removing the pin box on my trailer and raising the hitch, it would make for a very difficult move with any other truck. Steve Thanks for that, there are ways around that. I want what I want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoosterBooster Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 John seems to be behind with updates ... so i may add this ; we are in a death race against nature to at least roughly enclose the truck ... she threw bone chilling temps at us , so the outdoor shop is closed right now to ride out the cold spell " Diamonds R 4 ever " "class of`95" Pete 379 "Toterhome": Cummins N14, Super10, single axle, 278" WB, 162" sleeper ... sold current project; 1952 Diamond T, Cummins 8.3l @ 375hp/ 800ft lbs, single axle, 239" WB, 1954 Spartan 137" air ride sleeper .... full timing in a 39 foot "sticks & staples POS" Toyhauler (planing to build an all aluminum 42-45 foot replacement soon) ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buscrusher Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 well ... as soon as i arrived in NH my engine fell out of the hood : good thing John had something to fill the space (the previously mentioned "carrot on a stick" )' mechanical 8.3 Cummins ... turned up with marine gov springs/ injectors/ turbo etc ... she sure sounds sweet; https://www.facebook.com/258166897586168/videos/953520454717472/ (just ignore my old IDI "rice racer" charge cooler ... i will replace it with a correctly sized one soon) i guess my "stuck in slow lane" days are over anyway... end of highjack ; back to Johns <T> In another thread you talked about putting a 10-speed in it...did that ever work out? DougFrequent "lurker"Occasional posterFirst step towards the RV setup complete: 1 smart car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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