Jump to content

Residential refrigerator


PAylor

Recommended Posts

Travelforever, just remember that 4 amps at 120 volts = 47 amps at 12 volts (assuming an 85% inverter efficiency.) The good news is that all fridges will cycle so this power draw will not be continuous.

 

According to its energy star rating, the last 10cf residential fridge I referenced consumes 296kwh/yr of electricity. This equates to 811 watt/hrs. per day. Assuming a 50% duty cycle, (which is typical according to http://energyexperts.org/EnergySolutionsDatabase/ResourceDetail.aspx?id=1724 ) This means it draws about 67.6 watts, which is only .563 amps at 120 volt or 6.6 amps at 12v (with the same 85% inverter efficiency).

 

Chip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

 

We're thinking about a new fifth wheel (again). So looking for feedback. We will custom order again. Lots of new units have a residential refrigerator. I don't really see the advantage.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks!

 

Hi all,

 

We're thinking about a new fifth wheel (again). So looking for feedback. We will custom order again. Lots of new units have a residential refrigerator. I don't really see the advantage.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks!

I can say it in two words "ice cream". :)

 

Coleen M. Elkins

Escapee Since August 2008

Full-time 2004 Holiday Rambler Scepter

with one retired husband and two very sweet Border Collies

Wintering in Arizona 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Must say I'm amazed at all the negative comments re propane fridges. We have been fulltiming for a year in our 5er with a dometic fridge and havent had a single problem. We boondock most of the time and IMHO a domestic fridge would put to great a strain on our solar system. We winter in AZ and summer in Canada so we dont usually encounter really high temps -maybe thats the difference but I cant see us ever going for an electric fridge. I guess it might work on those days when the sun shines bright but what about all the cloudy days? We have had a good run of sun lately but the forecast for the next week is overcast. I can keep up with our needs (microwave, TV, 4 computers) with my current soalr system (500watts, 500amphour batteries) but I think a fridge would kill the batteries pretty quick. We camped for years in a camper van with a dometic fridge and other than taking a long time to cool down on propane I have to say we had no problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...my current soalr system (500watts, 500amphour batteries) but I think a fridge would kill the batteries pretty quick....

 

A 110 volt fridge draws a lot less than you probably think. I've had cheap 110 volt fridges in my class-b RV for about 7 or 8 years and never had a problem. Originally I had only 165 watts of solar and 220 aH batteries. Even with other use (lights, laptop, etc...) it was always back at full charge by about 2 pm. I recently upgraded the solar to 300 watts and the fridge to a $150 3.2 cf one (biggest that would fit) from Walmart. The fridge uses about 25 -30 aH overnight even though I never bothered to add more insulation around the fridge as some people recommend. I love using the solar for the fridge, solar charges free and propane costs money.

Hank Hankins
1988 Chinook Class B RV

www.hankswandering.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Must say I'm amazed at all the negative comments re propane fridges.............................................. We camped for years in a camper van with a dometic fridge and other than taking a long time to cool down on propane I have to say we had no problems.

You need to realize that most of us who believe that we have found a better way tend to then become evangelists for whatever it is that we so ardently believe. Like you, we have used RV absorption refrigerators for many years and have only experienced one catastrophic failure and it did not involve any fire issues. There have been refrigerator fires in RVs and more recently than in the past, although both major manufacturers of RV refrigerators claim to have solved that problem I don't know that I believe everything the sales brochures proclaim either. But I do like having the ability to run my refrigerator when not on shore power and I don't have any justification for the kind of investment into our little trailer that we presently travel in.

 

I do believe that there is a product that can prevent the type of horror story that many folks tell. The device is an aftermarket product that is called the ARPrv and it is a temperature control for the RV refrigerator that prevents it from ever getting hot enough to cause a fire danger. I first learned of it when Mark Nemeth reviewed and endorsed it in Escapee's Magazine. Electronic controls were my field for 40 years so I contacted the owner/inventor with quite a series of questions on it and became convinced. Mark has now been using one for a couple of years and he also talks about it in his classes at RVer's Boot Camp classes. I have had mine for a little less than a year now. Like Mark, I highly recommend the device for any RV refrigerator.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 1999 King of the Road had a residential refrigerator as an option as did many other RVs designed to support full-time living. It is not just a new idea. Park models are pretty much considered full-time living quarters and they usually use all home appliances rather than RV specific units.

 

Admittedly, there is a convenience factor that is hard to quantify because it is different for each person and situation. For many, the smaller sized RV propane based refer is a better fit. For others, a residential refer is more suitable to their lifestyle. For all of the propane/electric RV fridges that have failed there are many more that haven't.... yet.

 

The only real difference I have seen between using a 12cu ft RV fridge for 7 years and using the residential 22cu ft refrigerator for the last 7 years is that we pay attention to how long it is "unplugged". 8-10 hours off the grid seems to have not been a problem for us but we keep the doors closed. We typically drive only about 4-6 hrs a day when moving so that is never a problem so far.

 

I have a Pure Sine Wave Inverter I bought in 2012 but have still not installed it because I really have not felt it was important. I am planning to install it before we take our trip into Canada just to be able to boondock or dry camp if we need/want to. I have had it sitting out here out of the box for 3 months just "fixin'" to go to work on it... so, still not vital. I do have a generator which I don't like but could use in a pinch.

 

So, for some, propane RV fridge is a good choice. For others, it isn't and no one can make up your mind for you. It is about how you will "prefer" to live and not about how you "have to" live.

RVBuddys Journal Our progress into full-timing.
Budd & Merrily ===-> SKP# 088936 Other Websites:---> Hub of all my blogs
Clifford - 2000 VNL64T770 :: DakotR - 1999 C40KS King of the Road :: $PRITE - 2013 Smart Passion w/cruise

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

You can easily check the shipping weights on HomeDepot.com, Lowes.com or most other websites that carry major appliances. Same goes for RV refers. Start with PPLmotohomes, CampingWorld, Norcold.com, Dometic.com,etc.

 

In my case, the 2 door residential I put in was slightly lighter than the Norcold LR1200 I took out. Part of that was due to the major amount of metal in the condenser unit hardware. If you are really unsure if it will work for you, think about finding a very cheap or free used Refer in the paper or on Ebay or CraigsList. You need to know the dimensions of the space it will go into and have some sense about how much modification if any, the space may need to accommodate the residential. Units with rear cooling coils could be a problem, though.

 

I removed the wheels since it was going to be bolted into place and they added clearance height to the box.

RVBuddys Journal Our progress into full-timing.
Budd & Merrily ===-> SKP# 088936 Other Websites:---> Hub of all my blogs
Clifford - 2000 VNL64T770 :: DakotR - 1999 C40KS King of the Road :: $PRITE - 2013 Smart Passion w/cruise

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to realize that most of us who believe that we have found a better way tend to then become evangelists for whatever it is that we so ardently believe. Like you, we have used RV absorption refrigerators for many years and have only experienced one catastrophic failure and it did not involve any fire issues. There have been refrigerator fires in RVs and more recently than in the past, although both major manufacturers of RV refrigerators claim to have solved that problem I don't know that I believe everything the sales brochures proclaim either. But I do like having the ability to run my refrigerator when not on shore power and I don't have any justification for the kind of investment into our little trailer that we presently travel in.

 

I do believe that there is a product that can prevent the type of horror story that many folks tell. The device is an aftermarket product that is called the ARPrv and it is a temperature control for the RV refrigerator that prevents it from ever getting hot enough to cause a fire danger. I first learned of it when Mark Nemeth reviewed and endorsed it in Escapee's Magazine. Electronic controls were my field for 40 years so I contacted the owner/inventor with quite a series of questions on it and became convinced. Mark has now been using one for a couple of years and he also talks about it in his classes at RVer's Boot Camp classes. I have had mine for a little less than a year now. Like Mark, I highly recommend the device for any RV refrigerator.

Kirk we bought the ARPrv after reading about it in the Escapee's magazine about a year ago. We haven't installed it yet, it seems complicated. We are talking about installing it, again. So is it hard or does it just seem that way? I actually asked an rv shop to install it and they said they would rather not do it. So we haven't attempted it either.

Lyn and Ed

2004 Phaeton

2006 Jeep Liberty

Polaris Ranger

http://EdandLynSojourning.blogspot.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We haven't installed it yet, it seems complicated. We are talking about installing it, again. So is it hard or does it just seem that way?

It would be very easy for me to just tell you how simple it is to install, but degree of difficulty is in many ways, dependent upon the skill levels of the person doing the work. For that reason I'll try to answer in two parts.

 

Technically the installation is pretty simple. It does not involve the cutting of any wires nor any modification of electrical systems. Once the components are mounted, you only need to route the wires from the temperature sensor on the boiler and from the fan control temperature sensor if yours uses one, such that the wire will be out of the way and not move about while traveling. I used some very small size wire ties to take care of that, just attaching the wire to existing wire runs. The 12V wires for powering the refrigerator are taken off of the spade terminals that the connect to and connected to the wire in the ARP-rv harness and the ARP-rv harness then connects where those were. Then you need to route those wires and fasten them in place. Mounting the sensors is probably the most difficult part for most owners, but just take your time and follow the instructions. You should take the time to watch the video first, particularly if you are not very experienced in this sort of work.

 

Access to the work area was the biggest issue in our present RV as ours is a small RV with a small refrigerator. To gain access it was necessary to pull the refrigerator partially out of the mounting location. While that may be helpful for your refrigerator, in most cases the installation can be done without doing so. Do not hesitate to contact Paul for support as he is very good about this sort of assistance.

 

As one who is a retired service technician from a different industry, I'd say that the job should be very easy for any competent RV tech.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello all, I am here to help , with an explanation first:

 

The installation manuals for the ARP control are universal. Thus, they are complicated in the sense that a lot of different Dometic and Norcold configurations are covered in the installation guide found at this address:

 

http://www.arprv.com/rv-refrigerator-manuals.html

 

For more specific information we list fridges on individual web pages, for example if one has a Dometic RM1350 go to the Dometic Install menu at the top of the page and then select RM1350 which would take you to this page:

 

http://www.arprv.com/dometic-rm1350.html

 

The same is true for an install of a Norcold fridge.

 

If we do not have your fridge listed or you need assistance, I list my phone number at my website:

 

http://www.arprv.com/

 

I am always here to help. Almost everyone that was reluctant to install the ARP says: "that was easier than I thought!".

 

If an RV tech says that they can not install the ARP, ask them if they have the ability to replace your fridge? If the answer is yes, then they may be motivated to replace your fridge but are not motivated to install the ARP Control.

 

I am open to your thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to realize that most of us who believe that we have found a better way tend to then become evangelists for whatever it is that we so ardently believe. Like you, we have used RV absorption refrigerators for many years and have only experienced one catastrophic failure and it did not involve any fire issues. There have been refrigerator fires in RVs and more recently than in the past, although both major manufacturers of RV refrigerators claim to have solved that problem I don't know that I believe everything the sales brochures proclaim either. But I do like having the ability to run my refrigerator when not on shore power and I don't have any justification for the kind of investment into our little trailer that we presently travel in.

 

I do believe that there is a product that can prevent the type of horror story that many folks tell. The device is an aftermarket product that is called the ARPrv and it is a temperature control for the RV refrigerator that prevents it from ever getting hot enough to cause a fire danger. I first learned of it when Mark Nemeth reviewed and endorsed it in Escapee's Magazine. Electronic controls were my field for 40 years so I contacted the owner/inventor with quite a series of questions on it and became convinced. Mark has now been using one for a couple of years and he also talks about it in his classes at RVer's Boot Camp classes. I have had mine for a little less than a year now. Like Mark, I highly recommend the device for any RV refrigerator.

 

Kirk,

You bring some very good points to the table.........

 

When our two-way Dom-RV-Fridge failed it was likely due to past out-of-level operations so considering that we bought a used RV I had no control of the previous-fridge-abuse..........

 

I said to myself........'self, just replace it with a residential fridge...........no problem.........oh ya, no it was a problem......at first.....

 

Like a lot of things in life .........sometimes "easy" is not so easy.........

 

First thing.........size DOES MATTER.........many RV fridges are oddly-sized when compared to residential units.......RV units are sized to fit a........RV.......

 

Most of the tme if you desire to convert from a RV unit to a Residential unit you will likely be looking at Apartment-Residential-Fridges NOT House fridges.....

 

HERE IS ITHE REAL IMPORTANT FACT TO CONSIDER WHEN CONSIDERING THE SWITCH AWAY FROM A RV FRIDGE.........MOST new residential fridges have a internal temprature-shut-off-switch that SHUTS-OFF the fridge IF the ambiant temps fall below 50 f or above 80 f and this is VERY BAD for RV applications.......VERY BAD.......

 

SO.......what we had to do was ......do a LOT of research to find a apartment-size-residential fridge that did NOT have the internal-temp-limit-switch and this was NOT a easy search...........but we finally DID find the ideal unit but it was NOT EASY........

 

What you need to find is a apartment-size-residential-fridge that is approved for use in a outside or garage location (almost all residential fridge manuals will prohibit operations outside the home "living-space")!!

 

What we finally purchased has been almost too good to be true in that the fridge is approved for "outside-operations" and it has a VFD control system that employs "soft-start" methods that allow insanely low-power use since there is NO high current starting EVER..........the tiny compressor just SLOOOOOWLY ramps up to ONLY the speed needed to keep the temps correct........overall this thing uses about the same current as our LED lights...........

 

Cost.........$440 at the big-box stores..........

 

Almost everyone on the forum seem obsessed by power consumption but.....that is only a small point to consider.........the real thing to consider is.....DUTY-CYCLE..........that is how long the fridge compressor runs per day and .............how much time per day the compressor does NOT run.........effecent fridges have low-duty-cycles and VERY LOW TOTAL power consumption........

 

It works very well for our tiny two-battery low-tech cheap inverter system and after 18 months of full-time often-out-of-level-use we have nothing but smiles...and very hard ice cream........

 

Am I a convert......oh yes........but it was NOT as easy at it seemed at first..........

 

Folks that want to convert need to do a lot of homework............

 

Converting can be good.....or.......not so good.........the devil-is-in-the-details.........

 

Drive on.......(Keep the ice cream hard......)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well our Dometic 1350 finally bit the dust and rather than spend $3,500 on a new Dometic or almost $1,000 for a new coil we opted to install a new Samsung RF18HFENBBC for about $1,400 including the retro fit of the space.

 

Here is a link to the install -

 

http://s962.photobucket.com/user/mybigboomer/library/Residential%20Frig%20Install

 

With our battery set up (915 amps/ 457 usable amps) and our solar set up (810 watts) we are confident we will be able to boondock without issues.

 

It is nice having cold beer and rock hard ice cream and lots of room.

http://ramblingrvrat.blogspot.com/?m=1

GOD Bless America!

GOD Bless Texas!

GOD Bless All of our Troops!

"CHARACTER is doing the right thing when no one is looking"

'09 International Durastar 4400 LP Customized by 2L Custom Trucks

'20 DRV Mobile Suites 40KSSB4, '10 H-D FLHRC Road King Classic, '09 Honda Rebel AmeriDeck M/C Loader in Truck Garage, Polaris RZR 570 EPS 10 - 320W Solar Panels, 4- Simpliphi 3.8 kWh 151A Lithium batteries, Victron Multiplus 3000W inverters, Victron 250/70 Charge Controllers, Progressive hardwired 50 AMP EMS, Class of 2012!

1221594356_ProfilePic.jpg.9b4d57a43f182efadbcaf4db7556bb2e.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dolleytrolley,

 

What is the brand/model of the fridge that you speak of in your post?

 

JC2,

 

Hi, presently I am up in the Longview Washington area helping my wife with her ill elderly mother so I am a couple hundred miles away from our central Oregon shop where toyhauler, fridge, manual and model data is located.

 

The unit is a Frigidaire brand that we had to order from Home Depot and it only took a couple days to arrive. Hopefully mid-next week I am planning a quick trip back to our Central Oregon shop and at that time I could look up the model number and PM it to you.

 

A few months ago someone ask about the model number and I posted it on a previous thread but being a geezer I do not recall the thread......

 

Drive on ..........(Enjoy a cool fridge....)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dolleytrolley,

 

What is the brand/model of the fridge that you speak of in your post?

JC2....

 

Geezer here again.........I searched some of the old posts and found the unit model it is: Frigidaire, Mode:l FFT1222QB

 

Take a look at the size and specs it might fit your needs ........it sure has worked well for us........

 

Drive on............(Enjoy the hard ice cream........)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't think I have replied to this but my Amana bottom freezer residential is a great refrigerator for me. No ice maker, no water, nothing extra to take up space I don't need. I was supposed to get 48 hour with my batteries and 3000 w inverter but reality gives me less than 24. Not sure if it's the "start up" draw on the inverter with the compressor or the fact that almost all of my outlets were tied into the inverter when I only wanted the fridge. Several days of cold weather when the trailer was new and electric heaters plugged in may have affected my current situation. Have never had a "thaw" issue in my 48 hour trips. Don't get into the fridge while on the road so it stays cold. For me what was planned and what really happens are way off. Hopefully others are better planners than the one's I used.

 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dollytrolley,

 

We replaced our Dometic rv fridge, Model NDR1062, this last spring with the Haier 10.3cu ft model as I had lost all confidence in Dometic/NoCold rv fridges. It was pretty much an even switch with no xtra carpentry work needed. Our choice of color was black out of white, black, stainless choices available. Since our gennie is running 9 out of 10 times when our mh is moving, we use the 2000w modified sine wave inverter. This supplies power for the fridge, roof ac's or heat pumps if needed. Have since purchased a 1000w pure sine wave inverter and will have it installed in the spring for the fridge. The fridge model that you mentioned was one of several brands that we looked at and appears to be almost identical in dimensions and appearance. Have not regretted our switch one bit.

2010 Newmar Dutch Aire 4304-Spartan Chassis-Cummins ISL 425hp-2013 Chevrolet Equinox AWD Towed-SKP# 120487-FMCA #402879-

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dollytrolley, thank you for the info on VFD fridges.

Coleen,

 

Your welcome........hope it works for you as well as it has worked for us..........I have lost count of how many folks have installed this unit and so far everyone seems very happy........

 

Good luck,

 

Drive on..........(Cool fridge makes for happy campers........)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

RVers Online University

campgroundviews.com

RV Destinations

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

The Rvers- Now Streaming

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...