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Zamp 320w Deluxe solar kit install


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Others will have better comments, I just want to clarify two things. Is 8 located directly under 3? Also do I understand that you do not want to wire this into your existing AC electrical system. Are you intending to plug directly into the inverter? The inverter could be wired through your existing electrical panel to power certain existing sockets in more convenient locations.

Dave and Lana Hasper

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Daveh, perhaps a little more background on my situation may help everyone understand my position. I have a 21-foot, 17-yr-old trailer with all the original equipment, which, thank goodness, is all still working. I have no idea what type of charger the trailer has, but I know there is no built-in inverter. I have not boondocked more than a couple of days at a time. Last winter, was my first experience as a snow bird, spending six months in Arizona in RV parks with full hookups. I have not had the need to use either my genny or the charger I have. I bought the Diehard charger thinking that I would get a faster charge from it, rather than plugging the trailer directly into the genny using a 15 amp adapter. I may be wrong on this. I didn't want to have to run the genny more than a couple of hours to re-charge.

 

I am on a shoestring budget, and continually ask myself if I really want to put a solar setup on such an old trailer. But, unless I win the lottery or receive an inheritance, it's all I can afford at this time. After spending approx. $500 a month on space rent last winter, I figured if I can put up a solar system for less than $3000, then I'll have it paid for in one winter. Yes, I'm willing to give up the swimming pool, jacuzzi, and all the other amenities of resort life. I go to Arizona for the warmth and the sun, anyway. Another reason to go solar, is I like to stop when and where I want to and not have to worry about using too much battery juice or having to start the generator.

 

Daveh, correct- 8 is directly under 3. Yes, I had planned to have the inverter NOT wired into the AC system as it seemed beyond my capabilities. The fuses and charger are much farther back on the trailer, perhaps 13' away from where I plan to put the control board, longer if routing a wire along the wall. They are very hard to access if not impossible, for me anyway.

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That is helpful. So the two panels are about 27 inches wide? That center vent is a crank up type vent? If it is, do you use it often? If it is up, it will probably shadow. If we went behind the vent would there be room for a single large panel say 80 x 40. The reason I ask is that the narrower panels are generally more expensive. You can figure paying about $1.00 per watt for solar panels, some of the larger ones less but the narrow ones I have looked up cost more. dave

Dave and Lana Hasper

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Daveh, yes the 160w panels are 58.5"x26.5" and they barely fit when I add another 2" on each side for the Z-type fasteners. Yes, it's a crank up vent and I use it often, but can keep it closed if that's the only way the panels will fit up there without throwing a shadow. I have lots of windows for ventilation. Behind the vent, there is room for a 30"x72" or a 26"x83" panel before coming up against either the refer vent or the AC shroud. There is only a 34.5"x48" space behind the AC shroud before coming up against the TV antenna and the black water vent.

 

I know people keep saying panels can be had for about a $1 a watt, but I must be looking in the wrong places. I called AM Solar this morning, and they will send me an estimate of parts and labor for what I want.

 

Thanks again, everyone, for your input and support!

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AM Solar carries the narrower panels and those typically are higher in cost. Here is a benchmark for you to have in mind with reference to costs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kyocera-Solar-Cell-150w-150-Watt-Panel-for-12v-Battery-RV-Boat-Off-Grid-EbayGSP-/161719148942?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 This is an especially good deal because shipping is included. For your inverter consider this as an option. http://www.starmarinedepot.com/xantrex-prowatt-sw600-inverter.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw5J6sBRDp3ty_17KZyWsSJABgp-OaCdS9haoxXadbwLmoBobFtK9HIKWLH1IgQMMR3qJOUhoCEEfw_wcB . and this for the solar controller http://www.solarhome.org/MorningstarTS-45Tristar45Chargecontroller-NoDisplay.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw5J6sBRDp3ty_17KZyWsSJABgp-Oaf1VgPbEB25IvvokDkw88t8j6Dfv4b_esV7xw6sFQPBoCXUfw_wcB Another option for panels would be to buy three of the Grape 100 panels from Costco or Home Depot http://www.costco.com/Grape-Solar-100-Watt-Polycrystalline-PV-Solar-Panel.product.100054656.html. Add the costs of the batteries, wires, connectors and trimetric battery monitor and you are done. I will let others pick at my choices but this should give you a good ballpark of costs.

Dave and Lana Hasper

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Thanks for the PDF's and photos. They're very helpful. I wouldn't mind taking a look at your energy audit. I'll PM an email if you can't upload here.

 

I'll reply more later. I haven't forgotten about you, but doing a little leg work to give you a couple of panel options. The manufacturers of one panel I know would work perfectly for you is having difficulty laying their hands on the high efficiency cells (21%) needed to make them up.

 

Just a side note... I'm not sure if it is the same 160w panel you were looking at, but the dimensions seem to match up to a Grape Solar. If so, they won't have any more in stock until late July.

 

I'll get back to you.

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You're getting lots of help so I won't bother commenting on the details. I'll just add a couple of things:

  1. I'd go with a PWM solar controller in your case, NOT a MPPT. Save the money. It won't be adding much benefit to your system.
  2. If you intend to boondock much then I'd probably want to consider another battery pair. As Yarome said, it will extent the bank life (by not drawing down so low) and give you more flexibility in length of stay without genset usage.
  3. Cost/watt of solar can be deceiving....without shipping costs solar can be cheap. But shipping less than a pallet can get costly. If you look at the AM panels and include the cost of shipping then they do not come out real bad in a cost/DELIVERED watt.
  4. I'd seriously look at your existing converter. In a trailer of that vintage the converter is almost for sure not what you want. You are risking the 'health" of your new battery bank. You need to factor that into your budget. Using an inverter/charger is likely where you want to be. The Magnum 1000 quoted is excellent and has a very good 50 amp charger. But there are cheaper alternatives that have similar specs if it comes down to a price tradeoff.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Just to let everyone know I'm still researching... I have to take frequent breaks as my brain starts off gassing after a couple of hours... I did put together a parts list from the suggestions on this thread, and it's coming in at right around $1500. That includes a third 100w panel that I found room for, so a total of 400 to 420 watts including the two 160w panels I was originally considering. With the third panel in place, it might make sense to use the refer vent for a chase. Will have to measure wire runs for each design and compare the two. Might make a difference in gauge of wire I will need. I'll call AM Solar tomorrow and see if my estimate is ready.

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BTW, if you buy a system from AMSolar and install it yourself, they include EXCELLENT written instructions and diagrams of how to perform each step. Plus they include everything you need, so the novice doesn't have to figure out what switch or circuit breaker to buy, etc.

 

Their phone support (for any questions you have during your install) has an excellent reputation as well. You probably won't need it, but nice to know it's there.

1999 Newmar Mountain Aire, 640 watts solar

Toyota Tacoma 4x4

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Wanderer person, YOU ARE SOOOOOOOOO GETTING THERE and doing your homework. You recently posted....

 

"That includes a third 100w panel that I found room for, so a total of 400 to 420 watts including the two 160w panels I was originally considering. With the third panel in place, it might make sense to use the refer vent for a chase. Will have to measure wire runs for each design and compare the two. Might make a difference in gauge of wire I will need"

 

My updated experience and comments:

 

Based on your seemingly modest energy requirements, it has been my experience, based on only two people in a small 29 Ft. Motorhome with similar modest energy requirements, 320 Watts will "likely" get you by just fine (based on energy use and sunlight and angle etc) while 420 is even better and IS PLENTY. Even when we only had 200 watts of solar, as long as it wasn't rainy and cloudy days in a row, we typically recovered in the day that energy we used up during the day and night. It just doesn't take much to run an occasional water pump, LED night lighting, vent fans and if cold the forced air furnace (that item is an energy hog compared to lights etc) a period during the night. I updated to 400 watts and now I have a comfortable reserve. NOTE this was for four Golf Cart Batteries with 460 Amp Hours of energy storage capacity. With only two subject to energy use and sunlight etc., you may be crowding things just a bit, but two batteries can get you by. The thing is the less you draw the batteries down the better it is for their longevity. If with the two often taking them down to 50% of their capacity (I wouldn't go lower and prefer even less then 50%) that's harder on them versus if you had four batteries and drew them down less. BUT HEY TWO WILL GET YOU BY. If you have say a total of 215 Amp Hours of battery energy storage (a couple Trojans), I wouldn't want to use much over 100 Amp Hours (50% of capacity) per day (I wouldn't want to use much over say 80 AH/day) and have enough solar capacity to fully recharge them daily. If you had 400 Solar Watts and the sun was bright and direct overhead and you were charging at lets use say 14 volts (YES I know 12 is nominal and max voltage may be around 17+) that's around lets use 28 charging amps (NOT actual ONLY a guideline) pumping into your batteries, and if that remained constant 3 hours, that's 84 Amp Hours of energy. YES GANG I'm welllllllllllll aware things don't work out that way, I'm ONLY trying to give wanderer some "general" guidelines. Sunlight and angle and controller and panels alllllllllll make a difference. She may get 60 AH per day or she may get over 100 IT DEPENDS ON SEVERAL FACTORS, MAINLY SUNLIGHT QUALITY AND TIME AND ANGLE.

 

DO WHAT THE MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDS INSTEAD OF US but if you have three panels Id consider connecting them all in SERIES. Doing so (which raises voltage) reduces the current you have to carry down to your solar charge controller which affects wire size and voltage drop. Bigger wire = less voltage drop. I still prefer an MPPT Solar Charge Controller versus the somewhat less expensive PWM (Still I suggest a "Smart" 3/4 Stage Unit regardless) but its your money and your choice. I ran mine down the fridge vent and that works fine as I didn't have to drill through the roof.

 

Your 600 Watt PSW Inverter sounds fine. TRUE a Combination Inverter/Charger is a great appliance with bells and whistles, but its expensive and may be overkill for your needs and budget.

 

FINAL THOUGHTS I would still be concerned with the type and quality of your existing Converter/Charger. TRUE a cheap more like constant voltage source old technology unit will "charge" your batteries BUT THEY MAY NOT LAST NEAR AS LONG as if you had a "Smart" 3/4 Stage Charger!! I would look at the TOTAL cost of batteries and battery life using an old style charger versus a yes more expensive Smart Charger. The two batteries cost like $250 so if you doubled their life yet had to invest more into a Smart charger, you may or may not come out ahead in the long run THINK ABOUT IT IS ALL IM SAYING.

 

Its fun for all of us to spend YOUR MONEY lol. You have to do what's best and right for you and your budget and make wise informed decisions. I have friends with 50 watts of solar and a single battery who get by and I have friends with hundreds of watts of solar. I have one friend with TWELVE batteries !!! Its NOT about keeping up with the Jones' and having the biggest and best and most, ITS ABOUT "YOUR" ENERGY NEEDS AND BUDGET not ours. We report, you decide. With my 400 watts and four batteries we often dry camp 12+ days, BUT ITS NEVER ENERGY WE USE UP (our system is pretty well self sustained) its after a couple weeks we need to dump and take on fresh water ...................

 

Best wishes, I have enjoyed your solar system journey

 

John T

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I don't think you will be able to use the 100 watt panels with the 160 watt panels.

 

If the electrical and energy degredation ratings are close enough you can get away with it, but it's not something I would recommend building into a new system. If you had a handful of misc. panels laying around and want to cobble something together, that's a different animal. It could potentially degrade output of the array to that of the lowest rated panel. More than likely it would be difficult to find a 100w panel that would be a perfect match to the 160w panels she is planning on using, so I wouldn't recommend it. There's no point to potentially degrading the output (either by lower electrical ratings out of the gate or by voltage degredation) of 320watt of panels in order to pick up another 100. KWIM.

 

As a side note.. one other issue with a mixed array is that it will negate any advantage that an MPPT controller might provide. Even slightly different electrical characteristics will make it impossible for an MPPT to find an optimal operating voltage.

 

Wanderer, I touched on the PWM/MPPT question earlier.. and I agree with Jack as well. Unless you were going to be running 24v panels I can't really see going with an MPPT controller. In your case as well, I wouldn't recommend running your panels in series. You don't have a whole lot of wiggle room up top so it's better to stay low voltage and be getting 160 or 320 fed down vs getting 320 or nothing. Even if line voltage loss is a little higher, it's still going to be better than no production at all.

 

I'll hold off on converter/inverter/charger comments until you get your battery bank and panels locked down. That's a whole 'nother leg of the system. ;)

 

I DO agree with Jack and John though with regard to your battery bank.. IF you can swing it. Just throwing out an illustration of what we're talking about when we say it will prolong the life of your battery bank by going with 4 - T105's, I'll use just "published" numbers. In real life, if you take care of your batteries they will last much longer than the MFG's published numbers.

 

So a set of T-105's will get you 110ah's with an expected 1000 cycles lifespan with 50% discharge between cycles. So you have 110ah's "on tap", and assuming you're doing.. say.. 300 charge cycles per year you can expect them to last you a bit over 3 years. If you only discharge them to 80% soc, then that number jumps up to 3000 cycles. At 300 cycles a year, you've now bumped up the life expectancy to 10 years, but that only allows you 44ah's per cycle.

 

By adding 2 more T-105's you increase your available ah's to 88 per cycle.. which is fairly in line with your daily energy requirements, and still extends your 4 - T-105's to an expected lifecycle of 10 years.

 

So 2-105's will get you 3 years. You'll replace them with 2 more and get another 3 years. Starting with 4 from the get go and keeping your SOC above 80% you get an extra 4 years for the same price. Additionally, with 2 you're locked into 110ah's "on tap" over those 6 years. With 4 you may only have 88ah's "on tap" between cycles in order to maintain 80%soc, but in a pinch, you really have 220ah's you can dip into and still stay the north side of 50%soc.

 

Have I confused you enough yet? :P

 

And to anyone else reading this, I KNOW... those are not real world numbers and cycles. I was simply using the MFG's published numbers to demonstrate the principle and advantages.

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With what Yarome is suggesting you may want to consider three of the Grape 100 panels if they will fit. As Yarome was saying, if panels are wired in series, shading on even a portion of one of the panels will seriously decrease the output of all of them. However, if the panels are wired in parallel only the panel(s) with actual shading will suffer a decrease in production. Although this will decrease your wattage from 320 to 100, you increase the odds of reducing the impact of shading. The other benefit of buying the 100 watt grapes is that you can by them locally at a Costco or Home Depot so you avoid shipping costs. Another area to look for savings in panels is that at least here in Michigan, craigslist has ads for new panels at reduced costs, apparently from people who purchased them in large quantity.

Dave and Lana Hasper

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Yarome, very plainly put, and quite understandable, thanks.

Jerry H, good to know that AM Solar sends complete installation instructions with their equipment. I'm still waiting for a price from them.

John T, thanks for all your suggestions.

 

It sounds like I can have 90+% of my power needs met and enjoy a longer life on my batteries with 320w in two panels PLUS FOUR T105 batteries. I would be happy to buy two extra batteries if I could put them on the tongue, as it's the only EASY place to locate them for being able to wire this myself. I just pulled out the information from my SmartWeigh in March, and at that time my tongue weight with just the one battery was 11% of the trailer weight. My calculations show that by replacing the existing battery with 4 T105s, I'm right at a tongue weight of 15% of trailer weight. I know tongue weight is supposed to be between 10-15%. Does anyone see a problem with doing this? I can reply with exact weight numbers on each wheel if anyone's interested.

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Wanderer, No prob with just the 320 Watts (subject to your energy needs and solar set up), like I said I got by fine with only 200 last year and you will have over 50% more then I got by with no problem (although I did have 4 batteries). PS My Onan Genset ran each day a short time for coffee and wifes hair dryer and brief microwave etc and I had a 60 Amp Progressive Dynamics PD9260 Smart Charger pumping charging current into my battery bank those times, so this comparison isn't totally accurate!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

As far as tongue weight, 15% is the MOST I would like, although there are rigs out there with a bit more or less that get by (I'm NOT commenting on how safe or unsafe they may have been). It also depends on your tow vehicle and its configuration and rating and how it matches up and balances to your load. Just two more batteries at an added $250 or so may be the best extra money you spend. But they sure would be easy to wire and get to there on the tongue huh. Further back the better you know.

 

As far as your solar controller and series or parallel connection, if you have two identical matched panels I WOULD SEE WHAT THE CONTROLLER MANUFACTURER AND PANEL MANUFACTURER SUGGESTS and go with their recommendations versus mine. I do know when I had two 12 Volt 100 Watt Panels (NO obvious known shading problems) and my MPPT Charge Controller, the controller manufacturer told me to re-connect my panels in series (I had them parallel), and indeed performance improved. HOWEVER that may or may not be the same in your situation with your chosen charge controller (PWM or MPPT and Smart 3/4 Stage or Dumb), that's why I say consult the manufacturers (Panels and Controller) NOT ME LOL

 

PS FYI Only, for comparison purposes only, NOT what I have nor a recommendation or non recommendation. Here's a Smart Charger

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PROGRESSIVE-DYNAMICS-45-AMP-RV-POWER-CONVERTER-CHARGER-PD9245-/151714306293?hash=item2352e098f5&vxp=mtr

 

 

John T This is winding down, you're getting there.

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OK, I'll make a couple more specific comments, for educational purposes.

 

  • All solar controllers have a sweet spot for input voltage where they operate most efficiently. The better controller companies document this information. If you are thinking about an MPPT controller on a 12-volt nominal battery system then you would typically target in the 30-50 volt input range (array voltage). That is "optimal" for most systems. Not to say that you cannot run up to 130 volts if you need to. But most controllers start loosing efficiency if required to downconvert too much. I said 130 because you have to allow for some "slop" for very intense solar conditions...you don't want to push most MPPT controllers over 150volts. Some not even that far.
  • You can mix panels with different Vmp's but if in parallel you want to keep the ratings close. Very close. It is BEST if you use matched panels. I cover the topic in more depth on my website.
  • I would never build this system with an MPPT controller. There are merits to the MPPT but most of them will not make a big difference in this system - and cost is a driving factor here. So I would apply the money to a good inverter/charger. I can almost guarantee that the existing converter is not what you want.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Jack, your first comment

 

"All solar controllers have a sweet spot for input voltage where they operate most efficiently. The better controller companies document this information. If you are thinking about an MPPT controller on a 12-volt nominal battery system then you would typically target in the 30-50 volt input range (array voltage). That is "optimal" for most systems. Not to say that you cannot run up to 130 volts if you need to. But most controllers start loosing efficiency if required to downconvert too much."

 

relates well and in part explains how my MPPT Solar Charge Controller performed better when I connected my then two (now 4) 100 Watt 12 volt panels in series versus parallel. That (2 panels in series) yielded like 24 volts nominal and 34 Vmp as I recall, Id have to look it up. THANKS FOR POSTING THAT TECHNICAL INFO. I would expect Wanderers two 160 watt 12 volt panels (if that's what they are) to work fine in series or parallel if that's what her controller and panel manufacturers recommend, depending, of course, upon what controller she chooses. They may suggest series, they may suggest parallel???? Just because my panels worked best in series with an MPPT Controller, doesn't mean hers will with a PWM Controller??????????

 

My experience was: When connected in parallel, my batteries weren't ever reaching voltages like 14.4 Bulk then 13.6 Absorption then 13.2 Float. They didn't get much over 13.6 and charging current was already then cycling/pulsing. The vendor tech department engineers told me the 12 (higher Vmp of course) volts nominal in parallel wasn't that much higher then my 12.6 volt battery voltage and my controller was functioning more like a PWM and NOT utilizing its full MPPT capability. They had me connect in series (24 nominal maybe 34 Vmp I forget) and immediately after that in the same sunlight my battery voltage reached 14.4 for a time period then backed off to 13.6 then later 13.2 float voltage. I never achieved much over 13.6 battery volts when my panels were in parallel regardless if they were somewhat discharged or the sun was high in the sky... Now (panels in series) my batteries go up to over 14 volts then back off to 13.6 then 13.2 then after the sun sets depending on load they drop down to 12.6.

 

I now have four 100 Watt 12 volt nominal panels ALL IN SERIES and its still working correct (4 stages) other then my charging currents are like doubled as needed. My controller is rated at 150 volts max input and depending on sunlight I may be putting like 50 to 70 volts in so all seems fine for now. I did a lot of shopping and my MPPT wasn't all that much more expensive then a PWM Charge Controller which is why I chose to purchase it, BUT TO EACH THEIR OWN BUDGET CONSTRAINTS.

 

Thanks again to you and Yarome and Stanely and your website for the help.

 

John T A Happy and Contented Solar Dry Camping RVer.

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With what Yarome is suggesting you may want to consider three of the Grape 100 panels if they will fit. As Yarome was saying, if panels are wired in series, shading on even a portion of one of the panels will seriously decrease the output of all of them. However, if the panels are wired in parallel only the panel(s) with actual shading will suffer a decrease in production.

 

The shading issues do come into play, as Dave has said, but I wasn't necessarily offering an option, yet, to the 160's Wanderer is currently contemplating other than to say that I wouldn't recommend building in a 100watt panel that may negatively impact her array due to potential decreases in performance and/or degredation of the bulk of her other panels.

 

It sounds like I can have 90+% of my power needs met and enjoy a longer life on my batteries with 320w in two panels PLUS FOUR T105 batteries. I would be happy to buy two extra batteries if I could put them on the tongue, as it's the only EASY place to locate them for being able to wire this myself. I just pulled out the information from my SmartWeigh in March, and at that time my tongue weight with just the one battery was 11% of the trailer weight. My calculations show that by replacing the existing battery with 4 T105s, I'm right at a tongue weight of 15% of trailer weight. I know tongue weight is supposed to be between 10-15%.

 

You're right on the money with that. To minimize the impact, it might also be a possibility to move a new battery bank to the nose passthough area. It may not be terribly significant, but even moving 70#'s a couple of feet back off of the tongue might help if your TV is near max.

 

 

  • All solar controllers have a sweet spot for input voltage where they operate most efficiently. The better controller companies document this information. If you are thinking about an MPPT controller on a 12-volt nominal battery system then you would typically target in the 30-50 volt input range (array voltage). That is "optimal" for most systems. Not to say that you cannot run up to 130 volts if you need to. But most controllers start loosing efficiency if required to downconvert too much. I said 130 because you have to allow for some "slop" for very intense solar conditions...you don't want to push most MPPT controllers over 150volts. Some not even that far.
  • I would never build this system with an MPPT controller. There are merits to the MPPT but most of them will not make a big difference in this system - and cost is a driving factor here. So I would apply the money to a good inverter/charger. I can almost guarantee that the existing converter is not what you want.

 

 

All good points for others reading in. I get the sense that Wanderer has an uncanny understanding of the components and capabilities. In a rather modest system in this thread it just doesn't justify MPPT without going to a high voltage array, which isn't really practical for the given outlines.

 

Wanderer.. did you catch that last one? :D Jack is too nice to say it, but considering the age of your rig, it's pretty much a given that any existing converter will do more harm than good to your beautiful, new, T-105's. If you want to use the stand alone charger you already have it might be more cost effective to just upgrade your converter, but if it at all possible to return the one you recent bought, you would probably be better served with an inverter/charger. One major advantage with a combo unit like that is it's ability to work seamlessly together. Coupled with a programmable solar controller, once everything is dialed in, your system becomes pretty much a "set and forget". Regular checks on your water levels are necessary, but for the most part, it will just hum along all by its lonesome. :P

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Yarome, yes did catch Jack's twice-mentioned, at least, statement about upgrading the OEM converter. I will keep that in mind, and take a look again at what I have to remove to get to it. I also like the possibility of removing the batwing antenna to free up space. I'm headed up on the roof now with some cardboard cutouts of both the 130w and 100w panels to see how many I can fit of each size up there. Once I narrow down the size panel I will be using, I can proceed from there.

 

I did consider putting the batteries in the pass through area, though it's not really a pass through as the two propane tanks sit in the middle in their own compartment. Could possibly fit two batteries in each compartment with 6' cables connecting them, but then have to build a slide out tray for them for easier maintenance. This idea seemed to get really complicated really fast.

 

Thanks for ALL the suggestions,everyone! I WILL read and re-read these posts as I progress, one step at a time, lest my head explode! :lol:

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I would expect Wanderers two 160 watt 12 volt panels (if that's what they are) to work fine in series or parallel if that's what her controller and panel manufacturers recommend, depending, of course, upon what controller she chooses. They may suggest series, they may suggest parallel???? Just because my panels worked best in series with an MPPT Controller, doesn't mean hers will with a PWM Controller??????????

 

John, there are a number of variables at play. Dave's post covered some of that quite succintly. As did Jacks post regarding low voltage systems. Your particular situation did allow for a series/parallel configuration, but it doesn't really have anthing to do with your controller... in part.. or controller mfg's specifications. You just lucked out with the right roof real estate, with the right panel configuration, with the right controller. :P Not everyone is so fortunate. :D

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WANDERER, Indeed, I think that made like 2 or 3 of us who have spoke more then once about upgrading an older (if what you have) Converter/Charger to a modern "Smart" 3/4 Stage Charger to increase battery longevity and protect your substantial investment in 2 or 4 Trojan batteries. Perhaps "Great minds think alike" lol But again its your money, your budget constraints, YOUR CHOICE, even if we are having fun spending YOUR money lol

 

Yarome YES I must be living right to have been so fortunate in my panel and MPPT charge controller selections. However, things haven't ALWAYS went my way so good grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

John T

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