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GVJeeper

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Even if the 20 and 30 amp outlets are on the same leg, you still may be ok to use both outets if the box is wired to code with separate breakers for each outlet, and fed with enough capacity to handle both in use at the same time as it should be.

Dutch
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I think the time for real concern is when there is only a 30amp and a 15/20amp outlet at the pedestal. If they are fed separately or from a breaker with sufficient capacity all will be good. If they are fed with a single line from a breaker less than 50amps than a problem could arise with tripping a breaker upstream from the pedestal that the RVer can not reset,

 

I am not familiar with the codes that might apply to RV Parks or RVs, but in our last home, the total of all the circuits exceeded the 200amp main. In our current RV there is a 30amp main supplying four 15amp and one 20amp circuit (total 80 amps) which is exactly the reason the OP is asking her questions.

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GV, Opps my bad, you're a she sorryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy Hey regardless you have been a good student. "Weedhopper" is what the master called the student in the old TV King Fu karate show with Keith (or David???) Carradine, sons or grandson of John????).

 

Kirk has you covered on how to tell if the 30 and 15/20 Pedestal receptacles are on two separate legs (as I would have designed it). And I agree the RV park owner may not know the answer or even understand the question lol Also there can be different still NEC approved ways of feeding and wiring those RV pedestals, unless I see inside them I don't know how many or if separate circuits supply them or not since some tap rules permit tapping smaller conductors to bigger but I was never a fan of such so didn't use them and didn't fully understand it.

 

FYI on the 15/20 Duplex the smaller slot is the Ungrounded Hot conductor if you stick your meter there...

 

In modern RV pedestals that have 50 and 30 and 15/20 Amp receptacles, there can be (If I designed it) be separate circuit breakers for all three. IF THATS SO for your own purposes, RV on the 30 amp and heater on the 15/20, it don't matter so much if the 30 and 15/20 are on same leg or not (subject to how pedestal is wired and overload protected). But I guarantee you I would have them on separate legs for load balancing and reducing Neutral current I squared R heat loss inefficiencies !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you pulled 15 amps on BOTH the 30 and 15/20 NEUTRAL CURRENT WOULD BE ZERO as the two legs are 180 out of phase with each other and current flow through a wire yields I squared R heat loss and voltage drop..............

 

HOWEVER if you're at a park that has ONLY a 30 amp and a 15/20 and there's only one leg in the pedestal (because no 50 amp two leg service) if you use one of those Dog Bone converter adapters that tries to pull the hot leg off the 15/20 and another hot leg off the 30, then to a 50 amp female receptacle, YOU DO NOT GET BOTH LEGS like if you were plugged into a true 50 amp outlet. BUT THIS DOSENT APPLY TO YOU ANYWAY SO WHY DID I EVEN GO THERE LOL

 

Take care yall, Im wrapping up the addition of two more 100 Watt Solar Panels on the RV and headed to Jekyll Island Georgia next week

 

PS trailertraveler,,,,,,,,,,,Yep the 200 amp main circuit breaker is there and sized to protect the 200 amp rated main service panel feeder conductors, while the 15 or 20 etc branch circuit breakers are there and sized to protect the 15 or 20 amp rated circuit conductors. First you compute the loads, then you size the conductors for 80% max continuous load, then finally you size the overcurrent protective (breaker or fuse) to protect the conductors..........Long retired but don't think that's changed lol

 

John T

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Just one other thing I'll note for whatever it is worth.

 

SOME RV parks will not like you using multiple power sources like that and will ask you to remove the extra cord. While that may not happen often, it can happen. For various reasons. However, if you are paying for metered power then your cost to them is not a factor. More likely is the scenario where the pedestal is only a 30 amps and they either know or believe that you will cause issues with their upstream power (flipping service breakers).

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I'm doing a cut and paste into a Word doc of all the good stuff you guys have added here. I always tell friends when you search for info on Google to add " + forum" and this thread is proof that it works if you want a good discussion on a subject. This has been a great opportunity to learn some great stuff.

 

Love my RV friends!!

 

To reassure all of you, I will NOT be doing any electrical wiring myself. I have done some wiring in a shed and that's it - I don't like working with electric wiring and know the hazards, especially in an RV.

 

P.S. no offense taken, Johnt, lol.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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I just found this on Amazon. It's just the housing. The prongs that you see are from the extension cord. Any thoughts?

 

What is the current rating? I would like to use it as a master plug for winter heating, block, pans, etc, <3KW max.

A: It is just a plastic housing for the plug, it fits over the prongs. There isn't any rating.

It's about the same price as this one.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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FWIW That blade "configuration" is what's used on NEMA 5-15 15 Amp rated devices. The last unit has a stated rating of 13 amps. The current rating depends NOT ONLY on the conductor ampacity, but as you start to enclose and jacket and cover conductors and/or devices the ability to transfer heat away from them to the ambient surroundings decreases, which is why the new net rating may be lower, such as 13 amps instead of 15 etc. If you plug a heater that draws 12.5 (less then 13) amps into any of those shown it looks like it will work fine. Of course me being an old Conservative Fuddy Duddy extra safety conscious designer lol I would use 20 amp rated devices but you can disregard my method, no skin off me lol. But I'm not so conservative Id go overboard and up to 30 amps either, see I can be practical.

 

John T

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I did a lot of digging on this an find that it is supplied by boat supply people and it states in each ad:

  • Uses male AC plug from any Minn Kota® charger

This leads me to believe that it comes with the wire and plug to connect to a specific battery charger sold by that same manufacturer. It would be rated to handle whatever the rating of those battery chargers happens to be. I suspect that John's numbers are correct because of the type rules for that particular plug, but you would need to check out the company's battery chargers to know the specifics. You probably could use one and then cut the plug off of the end of the cord in order to wire it to the one for your electric heater. I will point out however that all electric heaters come with the admonishment to not use any extension cords to supply power to them and that is what you will be doing if you use one of these.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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Supplying power to an electric heater is best done only with a 12 gauge extension cord. Assuming you are running any distance as is the scenario here. I'd not hesitate to do that. It is perfectly safe if done that way and you use the proper other hardware, as is being discussed. But Kirk is right - almost all heaters say not to use with extension cords....they are trying to stop people from using the little 16 gauge lamp cords everyone has. I'll also note that my hammer has a label on it that says not to strike your body with it. :(

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Jack - if I had a hammer like yours then I probably would not have wacked my thumb.....silly me, lol

 

Johnt - Do you know of a 20 amp device like those I linked to? Do you feel the first one (Minn Kota) is ok (it uses a separate extension cord prong and it's only a casing)? And, yes, I appreciate all the info you are sharing with me.

 

Kirk - "It is just a plastic housing for the plug, it fits over the prongs" - so, it does NOT included the wire and plug so as long an my extension cord prongs fit it then I think it should work.

 

As for the extension cords, I think you are right (not using small ones) - I plan on using a 3/12.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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But Kirk is right - almost all heaters say not to use with extension cords....they are trying to stop people from using the little 16 gauge lamp cords everyone has. I'll also note that my hammer has a label on it that says not to strike your body with it. :(

My point is that we don't know anything about the wire from that socket. If I could actually see it, then I might agree but no way will I endorse it from the little that shows on the websites.

 

Kirk - "It is just a plastic housing for the plug, it fits over the prongs" - so, it does NOT included the wire and plug so as long an my extension cord prongs fit it then I think it should work.

What I am looking at the the back of the plug shows a cord from it to lead to the charger that they sell.

41r498W0ZAL._SY355_.jpg Notice the cord that leaves the wall fitting. It probably is enough but....

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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It is just a plastic housing for the plug of an extension cord...the cord is NOT included.

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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GV, you ask "John t - Do you know of a 20 amp device like those I linked to?

 

This is a 20 amp rated 125 volt "Power Inlet" for $27, but it doesn't already have an extension cord with a female receptacle on the end in which you can plug your heater YOU WOULD HAVE TO MAKE ONE but that's easy, a piece of short as possible 12/3 rubber SO style cord with a Female NEMA 5-20R extension cord end ran to your heater to plug it into.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marinco-200BBIWRV-Power-Inlet-20-Amp-White/151475313995?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D30002%26meid%3Ddaf3e2e487a4410897bae08e567f1352%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D14

 

The Minn Kota you ask about I JUST DONT KNOW much about it. Im like Jack and Kirk, however Im a bit suspicious. Some of those may be pass throughs for battery chargers, I'm not sure what they are SO NO COMMENT GOOD OR BAD FROM ME. I pass on advice about something Im not as familiar with. I have stated several times how I would do it if in my RV and that's the best I have to offer. Sure, the physical blade configuration you posted is like a 15 amp AC device, but the housing and AC or DC and enclosure all affects ampacity I CANT SAY WHAT IT IS, SORRY.

 

NOTE

 

This is too simple to be getting so darn complicated. I would use a 125 volt 20 amp rated Power Inlet like linked immediately above (or use a cheaper 15 amp if you like) and to it wire a 12/3 rubber SO cord short as possible with a NEMA 5-20 Female receptacle on the end and plug the heater into it. Some of the cheaper pass through Power Inlets that have been posted are cheaper but only rated 13 amps and your heater draws around 12.5 amps DEPENDING ON VOLTAGE. SURE I know a device rated for 13 amps will handle a 12.5 amp load,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sure people will say I've done it for years never a problem,,,,,,,,,,,,Sure I know many RV's only have 15 amp branch circuits and people have used 1500 watt heaters on them and never had a problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, HOWEVER NOT IM MY RV if I have a 12.5 amp continuous load in a thin wood and paper RV and me and the family sleep there I WILL USE A 20 AMP RATED DEVICE but feel free to use a 13 amp rating, hey it will save you a few dollars!!!

 

Good luck and hang in there, you're gonna be an electrician by the time were done here lol

 

John T

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It is just a plastic housing for the plug of an extension cord...the cord is NOT included.

Ok, that does make sense and it also explains the lack of any current rating. That becomes dependent upon the chosen cord. I must say that I've never seen one of them but it looks like something that could be useful.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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Kirk, "Ok, that does make sense and it also explains the lack of any current rating. That becomes dependent upon the chosen cord. I must say that I've never seen one of them but it looks like something that could be useful."

 

True, a "cord" itself has a particular ampacity subject to size of conductor and enclosures and jackets etc. etc. As I know an old sparky like you are aware a single conductor in free air has a much higher ampacity then if you start enclosing it. That being said, regarding the picture in question, the physical size and blade configuration resembles 15 amp rated devices so if I were to hazard a pure "guess" Id suspect its 15 amps or less which will handle 12.5 amps, but if rated at 13 that's getting too close for comfort for an old conservative like yours truly lol. I've owned a ton of RV's and felt how warm cords and plugs and receptacles and even the romex can get when running a 1500 watt heater, plus seen those tell tale brown hot burn spots on receptacles or plugs. On all my RV plugs I'm always taking steel wool or my knife etc and keeping the blades clean and shiny while most Billy Bobs and Bubbas NEVER think of cleaning or shining them and wonder why they get hot and melt plastic etc ., which, of course, may also be due to weak worn out lost their springy carboned up contacts. That's where buying a Hubbell 20 amp rated plug or receptacle versus a wally world or flea market 15 amp dollar special makes a hugeeeeeeeeee difference.

 

I will be crossing south central Texas this October on the way home from Yosemite and son in San Diego to the daughter in Austin, lets go camping???

 

John T

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I use another RV forum and just dropped in here to see what this forum is like and thought I would add this thread.

 

First, the NEC requires all pedestals to have a 20 amp 120 volt breaker and receptacle and it assumes that only one of the 20, 30 or 50 amp is used at one time. You won't find 15 amp breakers in pedestals. The receptacles are 15/20 amp T-slot GFCI.

 

The proper way to do this is install a 20 amp Park Power (Marinco) inlet fitting, not a 15 amp. Park Power also has a weatherproof boot designed to fit on their inlet. You'll want a 20 amp female connector for the cord similar to the photo. Because the pedestal breaker is 20 amp, the downstream wire and devices should be rated 20 amp. The extension cord would be 20 amps, romex inside your camper would be 20 amps (#12) and the receptacle inside would be a 15/20 amp T-slot. 20 amp wire is better for voltage drop anyway. I would also connect the ground wire in the 20 amp wiring to the frame/ground bus so that you are not relying on the integrity of the ground connection back to the pedestal. Some people have also done this mod. when they need more power for running 2 AC units.

 

Note that the output of a heater (watts) varies as the square of the voltage. At 105V for ex., the output would be approx. 1300 watts. I think having a power line monitor on the 20 amp circuit would be a good idea to so you'll have an idea of how the pedestal supply is doing. Could be plug-in or digital LED.

 

FWIW, on the internal pedestal wiring, the problem is not whether or not pedestals have the 30 and 20 amp breakers on the same or different phases. The real potential problem stems from how the NEC provides for diversity/demand factoring as listed in NEC table 551.73. As an example, say a CG sub-feeder (120/240V) supplies 6 pedestals with 30 amp recepts., the code demand factor would be 60% (108 amps total or 18 amps per RV). So if you come along and plug in your 1500 watt heater (12.4 amps @ 120 volts) to the 20 amp pedestal recept., you are significantly increasing the demand on that feeder. If a few other RVs on the same feeder do the same, theoretically you could trip the sub-feeder breaker. I think you'll find that is why some CGs don't want you doing this. However, the reality is that there is going to be voltage drop and a related drop in current draw, all of which is unpredictable without detailed analysis of exactly what is installed in the CG.

 

So many fifth wheel and travel trailers are now going with 50 amp services so they can run 2 or 3 AC units and IMHO, the NEC is woefully behind on what it's really like. Also, this is why there is such a voltage drop problem around the country, it's not that CG owners cheap-ed out on the installation, it's due to the minimum code requirements. Upgrading from the min. requirements gets very expensive very quickly.

 

In our TT, I installed 3 permanently mounted recessed heaters - 1 in bedroom, 1 in bathroom and 1 in kitchen/living area totaling 1500 watts. I run them on the standard 30 amp service but I installed a control unit I built myself that uses an adjustable current sensing relay. When the total of any normal loads, like say a hair dryer + toaster are plugged simultaneously, the sensing relay shuts off the electric heaters until the loads are turned off. Works very well, except that the CG voltage got down to 108V in the morning.

 

Sorry for so much techno-babble but maybe at least one person will get something out of it. :lol:

 

Marinco-RV-150BBIRV-15-Amp-Power-Inlet_T$_1.JPG050169987568lg.jpg

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post-47573-0-82711900-1431024335_thumb.jpgpost-47573-0-82711900-1431024335_thumb.jpgmyredracer "The proper way to do this is install a 20 amp Park Power (Marinco) inlet fitting, not a 15 amp"

 

AMEN I'm glad to see someone agree with me lol. A 1500 watt device which could (subject to voltage) draw somewhere in the vicinity of 12.5 amps is NOT something Id prefer to supply with electrical devices rated at only 13 amps, even if it would "work". I would sleep much better using 20 amp devices, wiring and overload protection.

 

You're also correct, as far as the NEC is concerned, diversity, demand and what constitutes a continuous load are all relevant.

 

Fun sparky chatting with you, take care now

 

John T Retired Electrical Engineer

 

PS despite what the NEC may require at RV Pedestals, I'm sure you same as I have seen a ton of them (older usually) that aren't in compliance grrrrrrrrrr. And those poor gents trying to use dog bone adapters to power their energy sucking 50 amp Motorhomes, especially if only a single leg is present in the pedestal, good luck with that lol

 

PS shown is a 20 amp rated Power Inlet, NOT a 15 amp. Note the different blade configuration to mate with a NEMA 5-20R Female Receptacle Cord End.

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FWIW, on the internal pedestal wiring, the problem is not whether or not pedestals have the 30 and 20 amp breakers on the same or different phases. The real potential problem stems from how the NEC provides for diversity/demand factoring as listed in NEC table 551.73. As an example, say a CG sub-feeder (120/240V) supplies 6 pedestals with 30 amp recepts., the code demand factor would be 60% (108 amps total or 18 amps per RV). So if you come along and plug in your 1500 watt heater (12.4 amps @ 120 volts) to the 20 amp pedestal recept., you are significantly increasing the demand on that feeder. If a few other RVs on the same feeder do the same, theoretically you could trip the sub-feeder breaker. I think you'll find that is why some CGs don't want you doing this. However, the reality is that there is going to be voltage drop and a related drop in current draw, all of which is unpredictable without detailed analysis of exactly what is installed in the CG.

 

So many fifth wheel and travel trailers are now going with 50 amp services so they can run 2 or 3 AC units and IMHO, the NEC is woefully behind on what it's really like. Also, this is why there is such a voltage drop problem around the country, it's not that CG owners cheap-ed out on the installation, it's due to the minimum code requirements. Upgrading from the min. requirements gets very expensive very quickly.

 

 

The factor in the NEC is a big deal....as you state. I never use their factors on the few campground services I've designed. I always go WAY more conservative. It is a big issue - plus most electricians do not really understand campground service and the issues involved with it well.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Code use of correction factors are simply a way to reduce cost, as low as possible. If the engineer doesn't use them, or reduces their size , costs will be higher, but complaints will go down.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

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Jack states "The factor in the NEC is a big deal....as you state. I never use their factors on the few campground services I've designed. I always go WAY more conservative. It is a big issue - plus most electricians do not really understand campground service and the issues involved with it well."

 

Jack, and I may be even more conservative then you are lol. In my years as an AC Power Distribution Design Engineer, I too was a "conservative" designer, rather be safe then sorry was my attitude. Also, the NEC often dictates certain MINIMUM requirements while there was no harm (other then additional costs) in upgrading within economic reason. As far as RV park installations, the electrician may have bid a job and his work was subject to the specifications the design engineer called for. Often there may NOT have been an engineer involved and the electrician alone designed and installed the system hopefully in accordance with NEC guidelines and whether or not he was familiar with RV parks I cant say, but running feeders to power RV pedestal receptacles isn't so much different then most other traditional electrician tasks. IE any good competent professional electrician should be able to handle it regardless if in an RV park or a home or Yankee Stadium. One thing I would say, however, I understand your point how an electrician may not be aware how RV use could be (especially if its 100 degrees outside) much more full and continuous with a longer term duty cycle then typical home power use. IE he might tend to under versus over size !!!!!

 

 

 

Darryl states "Code use of correction factors are simply a way to reduce cost, as low as possible. If the engineer doesn't use them, or reduces their size , costs will be higher, but complaints will go down."

 

YOU RAISE A GOOD POINT What you call "correction factors" can at times, however, cut both ways. If for example due to such factors as duty cycle or diversity or demand and continuous (or NON continuous) load calculations branch circuit sizing might be increased or decreased. A certain design may get you by if the load is NON continuous while it may not if the load is deemed continuous per the NEC. When designing it was always a struggle to satisfy the "bean counters" versus the end user coupled with my own personal "conservative" better safe then sorry design approach. It costs more to increase the size of the copper but doing so met or exceeded the NEC's MINIMUM,,,,, reduced voltage drop and I Squared R heat losses,,,,, and allowed me to sleep better with my name and reputation on the line as the design engineer. I may have over designed a bit in my career, but I seldom under designed.

 

BOTTOM LINE I was glad I wasn't the ONLY one who preferred a 20 amp Power Inlet (for a 1500 watt load) versus the early in the thread 15 or 13 amp rated pictures/suggestions. True it may be over designed, and true a 13 or 15 amp rated device will "work", and true people can say they used a 13 or 15 for years and never had a problem, and true there are a ton of RV's with 15 amp rated circuits that power 1500 watt heaters,,,,,,,,,,BUT THATS NOT ME LOL

 

God Bless yall, fun sparky chattin with you, keep safe now

 

John T

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...First, the NEC requires all pedestals to have a 20 amp 120 volt breaker and receptacle and it assumes that only one of the 20, 30 or 50 amp is used at one time. You won't find 15 amp breakers in pedestals. The receptacles are 15/20 amp T-slot GFCI...

It may be code, but in the real world, you will find many, many 15 Amp breakers and 15 Amp receptacles. You will also find pedestals with a single outlet and it may not be 20 Amp. I found the examples below just walking through the park we left today.

 

 

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Bill B, You asked "I'm not sure where the 1500 watt heater came from" I looked on Page 3 #45 where GV stated "My space heater is 1500w"

 

Heck by this time its so confused I'm about to give up. I try my best to help but I must be a poor teacher... How something so darn simple got so complicated????? lol To be safe he should add a 50 Amp 120/240 Volt NEMA 14-50 Service NOW THAT OUGHT TO DO IT!!!!!!!!!!! Orrrrrrrrrrrrrr on the other extreme go to Wally World and buy a 20 Gauge Zip Cord extension cord with 2 prong plug and receptacle and use it??? The heat generated in the cord is NOT wasted, it will still go to raise the temperature in his RV !!!!

 

John T

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Is this the right 20amp extension cord to go from the pedestal to the portable heater? I think I'll start by just using an extension cord through the slide-out. I'm thinking of having a fantastic fan put in so I can see about getting permanent wiring at that time.

 

Also I thought you all might like the terrible response I got from Forest River regarding the fact that I have only ONE 12v receptacle in my 35' TT and it's hidden in a little cubbie area in the bedroom (not in the living room where I would want it): Who the hell built this thing?

 

ME:

1 - Where are the 12v receptacles in a 2013 Rockwood TT 8325SS - I found one on the front wall to the left of the closet but can't find one for the living room TV area?

2a - Is there wiring in the ceiling vent in the living room to install a Fantastic Fan?
2b - Is there wiring in the ceiling vent in the bedroom to install a Fantastic Fan?

3 - Can a 12v receptacle be added to the wiring of the living room ceiling light over the TV area? And would it handle load for TV & DVR?

4 - Is there a wiring diagram available for my TT?

 

FR:

1. There is only that one 12V plug in; we don’t put those throughout the trailer.

2. If there is not a powered fan installed then we would have not run wiring to that spot in the roof.

3. I am sure it could be done but it wouldn’t be easy to add wiring into the roof and it would depend on what line the power was tied into.

4. Sorry but we don’t have wiring diagrams available for our trailers.

 

ME:

What is the amps on the 12v plug in the bedroom?

 

FR:

I don’t have anything that will tell me that, sorry.

 

ME:

Can you check with the service department?

 

FR:

Sorry they don’t have that information either.

 

 

Who the hell built this thing?...no one at FR knows what kind of load I can put on the 12v receptacle hidden in the bedroom? It's clear that once you buy from FR you are on your own.

 

 

Full-timer with my 2 cats FlipperDoodle & Buster

Originally from Northern Calif. (native)

2013 - 35 ft. Rockwood TT

GMC 2500HD Crew Cab

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