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what to do when you do not have sewer


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Everyone should watch the above-posted 'ice cleaning system in action'. Basically, even if you drive your RV wildly as the tester did, it doesn't do the job. Basic water works just as well.

 

I have a problem of recommending to the OP to dump the grey water. She's going to be in one spot for a long period of time in what she describes as a pristine area with a stream.

 

If the owner has a septic tank, dumping and adding to it usually isn't recommended to keep a septic system working properly unless there's a big septic.

 

She really needs to just call someone for a pump out of her tanks.

Full-timed for 16 Years
Traveled 8 yr in a 2004 Newmar Dutch Star 40' Motorhome
and 8 yr in a 33' Travel Supreme 5th Wheel

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Unless there is a proper outlet at the lodge it won't matter if you have extension cords. Remember the outlet has to be right. You can NOT just plug into anything. If there is an outlet for a dryer you may think that you can just use and adapter of some sort but that outlet is different and there is serious risk to try and use it. Also there is something called "voltage drop" based on the length of a wire run. You need to get this right. All this may entail getting a licensed electrician to do the job. A plumber could tie in to what ever sewer set up she has a run you a dump right by your rig. This will all cost something initially but is well worth doing it right. Once it is there it will be there in the future. Some things just have to be done right or it is too risky.

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The best way to solve this problem, at least with water and electric, and you don't say how much you will be charged to stay at this new location, would be to have water and electric installed next to where you will be parking. You eliminate voltage drop, assuming the electrician sizes the conductors properly, and you can have a decent sized pipe run to the site to maintain decent water pressure. This would be a gift to the friend, but in the long run, makes for a better stay and you don't have hose and cable laying on the ground that can't be mowed around. If the site is also uphill from the house, you might even be able to have a sewer run installed too.

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KIRK...I will have my motorhome about 120 feet from the lodge...i need to buy a electrical extension hookup connect for my 50 amp service to her home...and i also have to get a water house for 100 plus feet....DO you have any suggestions on what would be a wise choice in purchasing both..and is there a problem with her having a 220 volt connection..or plug in...also i think i have found someone to do the black water removal...i hope!

The outlet that you have available is of critical importance. If your RV has a 50A power plug/cord the common outlet is usually considered to be a 240V outlet because it can supply either two separate legs of 120V each or loads connected between the hot pins will see 240V and so electricians know it as a 120/240V outlet. The plug on your cord should look like the one below, if 50A.

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It is important that the pins look and are shaped like this picture shows. There are other types of plugs with different configurations which will destroy your RV electrical system if they are connected. There are proper extension cords for use with an RV of either 30A or 50A configuration, but 100' would require several cords and the voltage loss will be pretty significant. Proper voltages to things like your air conditioners is of critical importance. Low voltage will cause an ac motor to run hot and very low will cause it to burn out. For a run that long you should probably have a cord made up with wire sizes of at least 6 gauge and #4 would be better.

 

On water hose, you can either buy enough of the RV supplied white water hoses or there are some also of blue that are "food grade" or you could go to a store like Lowe's and get food grade hose of enough length and put the fittings on the ends for less money. It may cost less for a high quality hose of that length to do this. You will also need to be concerned about freezing in winter and about sun caused algae growth in the hose in summer, if it is in direct sunlight. I would apply the stick-on foam pipe insulation to the entire length of that hose for protection from both.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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There are several options depending on the layout.

You could install a sludge pump and pump the sewage to the house system, whether septic or city connection. A sludge pump is normaly used in basement bathrooms to pump the sewage up to the level of sewer or septic. They can be quite powerful and pump sludge quite a distance; easily several hundreds of feet.

Dig a dry well, or dry sink, for your grey water ONLY. These are often used in rural areas where they don't want their washing machines overloading the septic systems. These are typical one or two 50 gallon drums with lots of hole drilled, filled with corse gravel and buried.

You may need a permit for these and some area may not allow them at all. Your blackwaste would still need to pumped by a service.

An RV macerator can pump waste water to around 100 feet or so through a hose no bigger than a garden hose. IF your close enough this would be the cheapest option as the hose can be deployed across the ground when needed and roled back up when done.

There is a solution somewhere, you will just need to find it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

 

I installed one of these last month and I am thrilled with it. No more toxic black tank! I actually plumbed the liquids to the black tank so that I don't have to empty the "pee jug" every 2 days. I also used a "knife valve" like the Wynns so that the black and grey tanks are now combined.

Kyle Henson, Fulltime RVer since 2011

Founder/Former Owner of  RVer Insurance Exchange

 

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