WIRE CONDUIT FOR CUSTOM GPS CAMERA SYSTEM

[dascom]

Here are some options I have used in a previous life, got real good service and options from them.

Some of these stands might work for a monitor too.

http://www.rammount.com/products/laptop#/

 

There are other options too.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=vehicle+computer+mounting+systems&biw=1312&bih=624&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=TfoBVarXLYj_yQTT7YDIDg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg

[JC and Angie]

JC - Thank you so much.

 

Installing several conduit runs from the shelf area to the bottom of the truck would solve a lot of wiring problems (present and future expansion).

 

I would be more than willing to share everything with you. I still have to learn about Picaso photo posting (to post on the forum), but I can always email you photos. The system has been a lot of work, but I think the finished product will be worth the effort. The monitor stand was the real challenge because I wanted it to do many things.

 

I am hoping to have the GPS system working for the WC HDT Rally. I still have to disassemble the monitor stand and paint it (which may not happened for the rally).

 

Jim

 

Road my bike 20 miles north of key west and got caught in a rain storm. Had my gear on but damn, riding in the rain is no fun. Got to the truck in time to dry off. Short version is I frgot the photo. But I believe you have enough room for a couple 1/2" maybe 3/4" conduits pipes behind the fridge. Simple to remove, with the damn C clamps !!!

 

I'll be back soon as I need to replace the batteries before we head north. Even with a soalr charger there barely hold a charge to start.

 

Are those batteries "31 series" batteries in our trucks. Mines an 09 780. I want to say they said 900 CCA's. Like I said it was raining and couldn't spend a lot of time looking today. Any help would be appreciated on what batteries I should get.

 

JC

 

JC

 

The camera system will take a lot of work and I do not think I will have it done in time for WC-HDT Rally.

[SunJuniper]

I just got 4-31 AGM's from Sam's for $199 each - also rated at 100 AH.

 

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/31c-agm-12-mo-free/prod7700274.ip

 

At 825 Crank amps *4 = they spin the engine real nice. (of course, @ 75*F, not a real test).

these are great until the outside weather is colder and you dont get the same CCA's out of them. and you also need to have a different alternator and charger that

can deal with charging AGM batteries CORRECTLY or you dont get the lifespan out of them they should provide.

 

i would run 1 regular flooded cell 900CCA and a maxwell ESM or a gear reduction starter and the 1 flooded cell battery for the starting bank and use the remaining spots for your deep cycle batteries for your house bank

 

unfornately you well get CRAP quality batteries from Sam's club anyways.... doesnt matter the brand...

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

I'll be back soon as I need to replace the batteries before we head north. Even with a soalr charger there barely hold a charge to start.

JC

I had a problem with my batteries being drained, while in storage. I had the Volvo dealer install a battery shut off switch (Stock Volvo part). As I recall, the parasitic loss, on my Volvo (2008, 780), was drawing 500ma. The parasitic loss is no problem if the Volvo is driven every day, like they were designed to do. We RV'ers don't do that. We drive, then park for weeks at a time.

 

My concern is when I crank up the engine, after weeks of being shut down, do I still have oil on the high friction areas of the engine?

[JC and Angie]

I'll be back soon as I need to replace the batteries before we head north. Even with a soalr charger there barely hold a charge to start.

JCI had a problem with my batteries being drained, while in storage. I had the Volvo dealer install a battery shut off switch (Stock Volvo part). As I recall, the parasitic loss, on my Volvo (2008, 780), was drawing 500ma. The parasitic loss is no problem if the Volvo is driven every day, like they were designed to do. We RV'ers don't do that. We drive, then park for weeks at a time.

 

My concern is when I crank up the engine, after weeks of being shut down, do I still have oil on the high friction areas of the engine?

 

 

I try to go by every couple weeks or so and start the engin for a hour or so. Even ran it to go get diesel. Yes I'm concerned with oiling as well. I have a 10 amp battery minder solar charger that's pointed mostly towards the sun. Just laying on the windshield pointing south. I discovered yesterday corsion forming on a couple connections. Used cleaned and protectant when I did a major removal and cleaning.

 

 

Oh well, the repiar a never end on a truck !!!!!

[peety3]

My understanding - from one of the mechanics - The injectors use oil to do the 'final' compression of the fuel. Part of the "delay" in the starting of the engine is that pressurized oil get to the injectors and other rotating parts before the injection cycle and combustion starts. This is one of the reasons that it will always take several engine rotations before start.

 

The Powerstroke in my '01 Ford Excursion definitely does this: high-pressure oil is used to signal the injectors. At one point, I had an electric oil pump added, which would draw oil from the bottom of the pan and send it into the engine via a fitting that sat between the filter mount and the filter. It'd come alive for 30 seconds on key-on (i.e. while the glow plugs were glowing), and then return at shutdown for an adjustable 0-5 minutes. It definitely helped the starting speed, especially in cold weather and the one time that the dealer put in non-synthetic oil. Unfortunately, I added an Amsoil remote filter kit that ended up leaking somehow (I forget how/why), and therefore both went bye-bye when the remote filter got yanked out. I'd certainly do it again if I was buying something new...might do it again on my future HDT.

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

My understanding - from one of the mechanics - The injectors use oil to do the 'final' compression of the fuel. Part of the "delay" in the starting of the engine is that pressurized oil get to the injectors and other rotating parts before the injection cycle and combustion starts. This is one of the reasons that it will always take several engine rotations before start.

 

Thanks for the info. I have wonder, many times, why I was experiencing, what I considered to be, long crank times..

 

There is also the ECM fuse that you can pull on the batteries that allows you to crank the engine for a bit (less than 30 secs) - I'll have to find the reference, but it was in one of the Volvo engine manuals after a long sitting spell startup. Thanks again.

 

Also a sneaky way to disable the truck - pull the ECM fuse. I like this idea. Do you have more info? Sadly, there are people in the world that would rather steal than work for a living.

[ICPete]

That procedure worked great for me, after a 5 month storage:

 

http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=116404

 

Pete