PEIFamily Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 What size steel is everyone using for the smart beds? I am just going to build a platform 98 wide x 87 long (that way I can keep my existing fenders on). May add to it later on as time and money allows. Would 2x2 steel (3/16 or 1/4 thick) every 12 inches be overkill? What size plating on top? 1/8 ok? Also, winches? Been looking at a 10,000 one at costco for $399, but there is a 3500 atv going on sale here thursday for $99. Would the 3500 be too weak for it? And likely the 10,000 is overkill right? Thanks 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 What are you going to put on the deck? Sounds like something of a little weight? Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Hi, Hauling a smart car. Not doing a full bed, just a platform in front of the wheels. Thanks Jason 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 My bed is 3/16". Seems plenty adequate with cross supports. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
On The Road Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Frame is 3x3 runner, with 3x3 cross beams. The plate is 3/16 and the sides are 3/16. "> 2001 610 Volvo -Volvo power 465HP/1650 -autoshift2009 Smart Passion / cross loaded on Volvo2014.5 Mobile Suite 41 RSSB4VOLUNTEER CHRISTIAN BUILDERS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix2013 Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 5 inch high on the bed. Any combination of tubing or channel to get to that height. 2 x 2 tubing, 3 x 2 tubing, 5 x 2 tubing. 3/16 wall is all you need 12 to 16 inch spacing OK depending on location. 3/16 deck plate. 1/4 inch stuff is an unnecessary overkill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Thanks everyone! 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 If you do a search for Smart car winch from Dec. 2012 I think it will answer your questions about winches. I wish I knew how to post links. I would have the link posted for you. I tried to post a link with no luck. I hope your search will answer your questions, Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted November 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 Thanks Al! Jason 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star Dreamer Posted November 27, 2014 Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 Here is an great page for winch information and it gives some charts based on angles. http://www.etrailer.com/faq-electric-winch.aspx Note that the weights are based on a single wrap around the drum, As you get the close to the winch you will have more wraps around the drum, maybe around 3-4. I would be worried that a 3500 winch would be just adequate. For safety factor and to help extend the life of the winch, try going to a larger one if you can. We use an 8000# winch to load a 6000# vehicle with and you can tell it is working hard when the angle becomes steeper. We bought a 12000# from Harbor Freight for the HDT to load the same vehicle on it, mainly because the angle will be much steeper and it was cheaper that smaller ones. Haven't had to use it yet, in fact I may put in the trailer and use it there in place of the 8000# one. December's add for Harbor Freight shows a 3500# for $145, a 5000# for $200, a 9000# with remote for $300 and a coupon for the 12000# with remote for $295. We consider these throw-a-ways as they are inexpensive but probably cost more than the a new one to repair. Our 8000# is a cheap brand and we have used it for almost 7 years and it is just starting to act up on occasion. 2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch 2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you! Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/ for much more info on HDT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted November 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 Thanks! Think I will go for a bigger one. I think the 10k I was looking at was only 85lbs, so it could be lifted in place as needed if I don't mount under the deck. 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quinntheeskimo Posted November 28, 2014 Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 85 pounds will get very heavy as you age. Gail & Bonnie Quinn (Full-timing since July 18, 2004) 2001 Volvo 610 autoshift (Ultimate V Rod) 465 HP, 1650 Torque, 3:42 gears with air locker, pictures of build can be seen @ http://community.web...theeskimogquinn 2010 New Horizons 45' custom Majestic, pictures of construction can be seen @ http://picasaweb.goo...com/gailquinn48 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI, 100 HP, 118 Torque; Blog of 2007 Alaska trip @ http://quinntheeskim...nn.blogspot.com 2013 Smart Passion fortwo coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Been doing the price difference on the steel I am thinking of doing.. option 1 is: 2x3 tubing stringers across the bed on 16 o/c sitting on 2x3 rails laid flat on top of the existing truck frame. Then finished around the outside with more 2x3 or 2x5. Option 2 is: do the same, but use all 2x5 tubing. Option 3 is: 2x2 tubing stringers on top of the frame back to the wheels, then cutout and humped up around the wheels. (benefit would be 3" lower when loading the smart car). Option 4 is: same as option 2, but use 3/16" channel iron vs the 2x5 tubing. All would have 1.5" angle bracing different places in them. The bed would be about 8ft x 13.5 ft. As far as price difference on the steel, would 1/8" be solid enough or would I need at least 3/16? I want it strong enough, but don't want to go overboard on it if its not needed and just wastes extra $$. It will be used to haul a smart car and likely just a platform with no sides at this time. Making up standalone boxes for the sides and decided to bolt the hitch under the bed (thanks Quinn) Thanks 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix2013 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I would stick with 3/16 in any size tubing, if you go to 1/8 you would have to bring spacing between tubes closer to have the same rigidity, so you gain nothing because you will need more tubing. Option one is the easiest, I've done it both ways, 1 and 2. C-channel (I've done that two) is easy to weld to the flat side and a pain in the ass welding to the flanges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 phoenix2013, on 01 Jan 2015 - 5:55 PM, said: I would stick with 3/16 in any size tubing, if you go to 1/8 you would have to bring spacing between tubes closer to have the same rigidity, so you gain nothing because you will need more tubing. Option one is the easiest, I've done it both ways, 1 and 2. C-channel (I've done that two) is easy to weld to the flat side and a pain in the ass welding to the flanges. Thanks. Sounds like a plan. I will stick with 3/16 The reason I considered the channel, is if I put the outside rails with the "C" on the outside butted up against the stringers, I could put hooks and running lights into the recess and safe from breakage. 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfrimr Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 I'm not sure i understand option #3 could you put a drawing of what you are thinking? cutout and humped up around the wheels. (benefit would be 3" lower when loading the smart car).'" It would be helpful to see what you are saying. Thanks Kent 2003 Volvo VLN6302016 38 RS3 Mobile Suite2010 Smart behind the cab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 I'm not sure i understand option #3 could you put a drawing of what you are thinking? It would be helpful to see it. Thanks Kent Trust me, you do not want a drawing from me lol Pretty much have a lower platform from the cab to the front of the rear wheels, then cutouts for the fender clearance. The fenders would be raised above the flatbed. I have no plans on rear loading anything. EDIT: Something like this with a 8' wide platform back to the wheels, then cutout around them and continue on. Would make it 3" lower for easier loading of the smart car and also lower the center of gravity a bit. I plan on putting 4-5 foot long drom boxes on each side underneath. Borrowed from the bed pictures 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfrimr Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 So with thoughts of an 8 X13 bed, you are planning on a deck all the way back to the 5th wheel? Are you going to taper it down to the frame or step down? earler you mentiond not a full bed just a platform for the car. what changed your mind on that? Thanks Kent 2003 Volvo VLN6302016 38 RS3 Mobile Suite2010 Smart behind the cab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 There is no issue with loading a smart on most bed heights, so I would not obsess about it. I load at 47.5" without dumping the air, and I have never hit the ground with my bumper - either loading or unloading. And I have unloaded on some pretty irregular locations (meaning the end of the ramp was on a lower plane than the truck - which is the worst case). I've gotten close to the ground in some of the more extreme unloading terrain, though. But I NEVER dump my air, and that is always an option. What I'm saying is that you should not let the bed height drive the design unless you are really high - like over 50". Then you have to look at things more carefully. I like the stepped bed design like Henry has. It has a lot of advantages for flexibility of trailer pulled. For example, I cannot pull a semi-trailer RV with my bed design. But with a stepped bed I could. Most people would not care, though. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 OTR, really nice paint job! 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
On The Road Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 OTR, really nice paint job! Thanks Sibernut, I appreciate that. "> 2001 610 Volvo -Volvo power 465HP/1650 -autoshift2009 Smart Passion / cross loaded on Volvo2014.5 Mobile Suite 41 RSSB4VOLUNTEER CHRISTIAN BUILDERS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted January 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 There is no issue with loading a smart on most bed heights, so I would not obsess about it. I load at 47.5" without dumping the air, and I have never hit the ground with my bumper - either loading or unloading. And I have unloaded on some pretty irregular locations (meaning the end of the ramp was on a lower plane than the truck - which is the worst case). I've gotten close to the ground in some of the more extreme unloading terrain, though. But I NEVER dump my air, and that is always an option. What I'm saying is that you should not let the bed height drive the design unless you are really high - like over 50". Then you have to look at things more carefully. I like the stepped bed design like Henry has. It has a lot of advantages for flexibility of trailer pulled. For example, I cannot pull a semi-trailer RV with my bed design. But with a stepped bed I could. Most people would not care, though. Thanks! I thought lower would be better but its good to know it can be unloaded safely even not 100% level. Semi trailer RV - If we ever did something like that, could it be hauled with the ET? So with thoughts of an 8 X13 bed, you are planning on a deck all the way back to the 5th wheel? Are you going to taper it down to the frame or step down? earler you mentiond not a full bed just a platform for the car. what changed your mind on that? Thanks Kent I was originally planning on just a pad, but realizing I needed extra weight, I think I need to go all the way back. I likely would do a step down. 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolpsaddles Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 I had my bed built by a local truck shop, they used light weight I beam material on a 1X3 tube. Elected to have a 1½ T&G deck that has 1½ " clearance when aired down. I do not use a winch to get the Smart on board. The only time I have difficulties is if I load on a side hill from the low side but that can usually be avoided as I can load from either side, 2005 Western Star, MDE 4000 ,singled mid, 12' deck with Smart CarBison Stratus 3 horse with 16' short wall 12' slide out http://www.spottedhorsegallery.com/http://www.campingandhorses.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 A semi-trailer RV can be hauled by an ET - with some limitations. It has to be within the weight ratings. On the upgraded airbags the pin weights can be much higher - approaching 9K. What is optimal and supported I'll let Henry whisper in Phoenix's ear. Maybe they will post. My plan has always been to go to a semi-trailer and I'm targetting 8500 pin weight. The axles will be in the RV position to attain this. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thanks guys! Jack, Our plan is sometime to customize a 53' trailer. Wifey wants at least 6 slides. I used to build houses and also had a large workshop to fabricate wood stuff so I would have no problem fabricating the inside up. I once built myself a 5x10 foot CNC machine for wood and aluminum. Sold that and everything else from the shop when we went fulltiming. 2006 Volvo 670 singled long 2011 Heartland Sundance 3300CK 2006 Smart passion 2001 F350 DRW CREWCAB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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