leot Posted October 23, 2016 Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 see below.... I have continuity, on gas if I unplug one side the flame shuts off, so I know that is working. In the service manual it talks about the 12 volt terminal block, I have 12+DC volts there but then it shows testing it for AC Volts and says it should not have more than 6, my digital volt meter is jumping all around from 0 to 70 volts not really getting a reading on AC Volts. (see page 10 section 4) 5.14 thermofuse Newer and replacement cooling units have a Thermofuse located on the boiler. The function of the thermofuse is to shut down the control system in the event the cooling unit has a problem. On certain units the fuse can be reset by pushing the button in the center. The thermofuse is a non-replaceable component of the cooling unit. When the fuse pops it is normally an indication the cooling unit has a problem and the cooling unit will have to be replaced. The fuse can be checked for continuity . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 (edited) I am thinking that you have a more recent and better service manual than the one I referenced. Know where I can download a copy of it? This is a link to the manual which I have been using. Edited October 24, 2016 by Kirk Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leot Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 see this link>>> http://www.nancyemmert.com/region6/Resources/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leot Posted October 29, 2016 Report Share Posted October 29, 2016 I took the refrig out and turned it upside down for a day, plugged back in and is cooling, however the freezer got down to 0 degrees F in a couple hours so it running full blast, I checked the Thermister and it is putting the right amount of OHMs 3600 room temp and 9000 in glass of ice water. I bought a new thermistor and it is registering the same warm and about 9230 ohms in ice water. I am going to try it and see if it helps. Anybody have any other ideas? could my lower circuit board be bad? anyway to test it? I am assuming that since the refrig is cooling that the cooling unit is OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooljim Posted April 27, 2019 Report Share Posted April 27, 2019 Yellow powder? That's what I'm seeing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 4 hours ago, cooljim said: Yellow powder? That's what I'm seeing. Ammonia. Your cooling unit's toast. Time for either a new cooling unit, or a new fridge. Quote I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 4 hours ago, cooljim said: Yellow powder? That's what I'm seeing. The yellow powder is the chemical from the refrigerant that is left behind when the ammonia and water components have evaporated. It indicates that your cooling unit has leaked the refrigerant out and must be replaced. How old is the refrigerator? It might be just as well or perhaps better to just replace the refrigerator. Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted April 28, 2019 Report Share Posted April 28, 2019 18 hours ago, cooljim said: Yellow powder? That's what I'm seeing. That's very very bad ………….Sounds like its time to replace either the cooling unit or the entire fridge, you might want to shop n do your homework before making the decision, depending on age and condition of the fridge and your budget. Although its NOT best for my RV and its equipment and my lifestyle (lots of dry camping even though I have adequate solar and battery energy storage) I see a lot of folks going to 120 VAC Compressor powered fridges nowadays...………….. John T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbelt135 Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 Hey guys, (especially @Kirk W as you are very knowledgeable on this topic)... I have a Dometic DM2652 (about 9 years old) and last week the fridge was working, but this weekend it wouldn't work anymore. All my frozen food thawed over night, so I switched to gas in the morning, but unfortunately the fridge did not get cold again. I do not smell ammonia or see any yellow powder anywhere. The boiler seems to get hot in gas mode (and I can see the flame), but the cooling unit is not warm in either electric or gas mode. Is it definitely the cooling unit? Any chance it could be something else? Thanks in advance for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 14 hours ago, blackbelt135 said: Any chance it could be something else? Welcome to the Escapee forums! There is always a chance, but in this case it isn't a very good chance. I have a couple of questions. Are all of the display panel indications normal as when operating correctly? Since you can see the flame when on propane as well as feeling the heat of the boiler, if the panel lights are normal that would seem to indicate that it is trying to cool. The only other thing that I can think of which has a very remote chance of creating your symptoms would be if the thermistor were to fail to a resistance value that is neither open or shorted, which would be very unusual. If you download a copy of the service manual from Bryant RV Service and look at page 7 there are instructions on how to check it. If the thermistor were to fail either open or shorted the refrigerator would go into constant cool and everything would freeze, rather than to stop cooling. Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbelt135 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 On 7/14/2020 at 8:22 AM, Kirk W said: Welcome to the Escapee forums! There is always a chance, but in this case it isn't a very good chance. I have a couple of questions. Are all of the display panel indications normal as when operating correctly? Since you can see the flame when on propane as well as feeling the heat of the boiler, if the panel lights are normal that would seem to indicate that it is trying to cool. The only other thing that I can think of which has a very remote chance of creating your symptoms would be if the thermistor were to fail to a resistance value that is neither open or shorted, which would be very unusual. If you download a copy of the service manual from Bryant RV Service and look at page 7 there are instructions on how to check it. If the thermistor were to fail either open or shorted the refrigerator would go into constant cool and everything would freeze, rather than to stop cooling. Thanks so much for your response @Kirk W! To answer your questions, yes, the display panel indications function normally as when operating correctly. Thank you for the link to the service manual - I will follow the instructions to check the thermistor. Have you heard of these "bullet-proof boiler" cooling units from www.rvcool.com ? Looks like a good option if I'm to replace the cooling unit. Unfortunately it looks like they're shipping 3 weeks out so I wouldn't have it for my next camping trip which is in 3 weeks. Something else I've been seeing (like what @oldjohnt mentioned above) are people replacing these rv refrigerators with residential (electric only) refrigerators. https://youtu.be/ZI97kvG1dgU Do you (or anyone else) know of a good fitting make/model? The Dometic DM2652 dimensions are: Product Depth: 26 " Product Height: 54 21/32 " Product Width: 24 7/8 " Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 2 hours ago, blackbelt135 said: Do you (or anyone else) know of a good fitting make/model? The best thing to do would be to visit a few appliance sellers and measure to see what is closest. You will probably need to do some carpentry and you will need an inverter and batteries to support it when traveling. It is a definite possibility and would probably not cost a lot more. Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyDaHead Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 Well i might as well join in on this one. I have a surge protector and this weekend it shut me off a number of times due to low voltage (a couple of the times it would be on / off / on / off.. before i caught it and turned off the AC or whatever was running so it would stop. Well now....the fridge 'Dometic 2652RBX' is not working - freezer gets somewhat cold (32-33) but fridge is just not doing it (50-60) No warning lights, all ohms check out, have 110 and 12 - and gas or electric doesn't matter..same thing. No yellow no smells no noises. The only thing that somewhat seems off is the absorption vessel seems to be hot vs warm (not sure if that is normally the case) tubes above it are just warm and chimney thing is also warmer/hot - where AC Heating Rod is thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 10 hours ago, JimmyDaHead said: Well i might as well join in on this one. Welcome to the Escapee forums, Jimmy! Sorry that it took a problem to bring you here but we will do our best to help. I very much doubt that the cycling of the power would have caused your problem with the refrigerator, or even have played any part in it. The power to the circuit boards and controls in your refrigerator is 12V from the battery side all of the time, even if you are operation the refrigerator on 120V. The most that it would have done when that was happening would be to try and shift over to propane and back when power cycled. My first suggestion is to download a copy of the service manual from Bryant RV Service and take a look through the trouble shooting guide. It would be a good idea to do the thermistor test shown on page 7 of the manual just to make sure it is OK. Another thing that you could do is to disconnect the thermistor and leave it off for a few hours to see what that does. Leaving the thermistor unplugged will simulate a thermistor failure that sends the controls into a constant cool mode which will cause it to do the maximum possible cooling and if the temperatures remain above normal it pretty much demonstrates a cooling unit failure. It is important to note than while ammonia odor and /or yellow residue in the back of the unit are tell tale signs of cooling unit failure, neither being the case does not mean that it has not happened. Sometimes the chemicals in the refrigerant will crystallize to make clumps that can block the tubes at one of the narrow locations or bends and that too can prevent it from working. Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyDaHead Posted July 24, 2020 Report Share Posted July 24, 2020 Thanks Kirk.. will do some more digging. I have had if off for a couple days now, going to try starting it back up and see what it does.. also got my handy new temperature gauges in so i dont have to open the door to see the temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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