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Found 26 results

  1. We have a Brake Buddy for Sale. $400 with remote. We live in Arizona. imaginethatsr@gmail.com
  2. is a 2018-19 pathfinder good for towing a 6000 pound travel trailer
  3. We are considering purchasing a truck with a popup truck camper as a tow vehicle. We are considering the popup style truck camper because of weight and the lower profile. Does anyone have an experience towing such a truck camper? We have a 40-foot Phaeton.
  4. Hi and thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions! My husband and I have a 22' travel trailer, 3200 lbs dry. I don't know the GVWR since it's a trailer from the 80s and I can't find this information about it (but I'm assuming 5000 might be a safe estimate?)! We're looking to buy a tow vehicle for it; this will be for full-timing in the trailer. We've already done a lot of research and read lots of opinions, but it seems like much of the advice is geared towards folks hauling larger trailers. We started out thinking about trying to tow with an SUV, but read some scary stories of people flipping while towing with SUVs. I see lots of recommendations for 3/4 to 1 ton diesel trucks. My question is: is this really the best way to go, even with as smaller trailer like ours, or would something like an F150 (or possibly a larger SUV like a Tahoe/Suburban) work just fine? We're buying used and budget is a factor, so we really don't want to pay for more truck than we really need. Top priorities: 1) Safety: I'll be driving and I've never towed anything before, so I don't want to worry about sway, flipping over, being underpowered, etc. 2) Ability to get us anywhere: we plan on traveling all over, and we love Colorado, so it needs to be able to handle the trailer in the mountains! I know a lot of this depends on specific ratings for specific vehicles, but I also feel like I see a lot of people basically saying that just because a vehicle is rated to tow a certain amount doesn't mean it is a good idea, or that it will be able to tow this amount up hills etc. Anyone have any recommendations, advice, stories of similar situations, words of encouragement, ... ? Thanks!
  5. I’ve been doing research on moving to an RV lifestyle when I retire (~ 18 months). I pretty much know what RV I’m going to buy, but the truck is still an uncertainty. The things I do know is that it will be a diesel, crew cab and long box….all of those are certainties. So as background, to start, I expect that we will be RVing only during the Ohio winters, but transitioning to full-time based on the first year or two of experiences. To those means, I have developed an extensive list of things we will be taking. I’ve gone as far as to weigh them (or acquire their weight), determine where they will be stored in the RV, and have used some simple engineering force formulas to calculate a realistic payload requirement for the truck. (NOTE: GCWR and GAWR are not at risk. It’s only the truck’s GVWR and Payload that I am concerned about). Knowing that only the Dodge Ram’s Super Duty is SAE J2807 compliant at this time, the only thing I could do is use the manufacturer’s specs when looking at payload ratings. The good news is that with Ford redesigning their Super Duty line in 2017, they and GM have committed to the SAE standards in 2017. That helps me if I buy something new, but not is I buy something used. That said, my calculated payload has a maximum requirement of 3,900 lbs, which eliminated the 2016 Ford SRW which comes in approx. 3,600 lbs. Bummer, because I like the Fords. 2016 Chevy is approx. 4,200 lbs and 2016 Dodge Ram is approx. 4,300 lbs, both are SRWs. Given these are approaching the upper limits of the vehicles, I’ve been contemplating going to a DRW, which I would prefer not to if given a choice. But I need to be realistic too. Anyway, after reading a number of other forums elsewhere on the internet on the subject of “DRW vs SRW”, I’ve determined that it is best that I consult a group of people in similar situations as I am. The forums had good info, but the types of towing varied. As a result, I thought I would come here for the perspective of an experienced audience. So the RV I am interested in is a fifth wheel, has a GVWR of 14,000 lbs and the max. payload required (trailer, passenger, hitch, etc.) will be approx. 3,900 lbs. What are some of the pros and cons between SRW vs DRW when it comes to towing something like this configuration? Also, while I don’t expect it to be my DD (daily driver) in the off season, I do expect to use it some when not towing. As well, when I am towing, I expect we’ll need to use it for getting around; e.g. sight-seeing, grocery shopping, laundry, etc., and I may ask for it to eventually become a full-time towing vehicle. Last point, we expect that boondocking will be our preferred style of accommodations when we do go RVing. Any help would be appreciated.
  6. Anyone tow with a HDT? Going to buy our truck today and have been looking at the newer F450's. Will the F450 require bags to tow a mobile suite? I know trucks but I know nothing about diesels or HDT's. Would rather have the HDT to sit higher and all the benefits of pulling/stopping our rig but don't know anything about manufactures, milage, etc... We will be traveling rvers living full time. Thanks for any input.
  7. I have a 2015 short bed F350 single axle. Looking to buy a 5th wheel UVW of 10,570 and GVWR of 13,996. Ford towing guide shows 15,700lb capacity. King Pin Wgt of 2,090. Am I too close to capacity and will my truck struggle? It is the 6.7L Diesel. 3.55 axle ratio. Should I get air bags as well? Also, is there much difference in towing a 35' 6" vs. 38' trailer? Should I get an automatic sliding hitch or a manual slider? New to 5th wheel trailering....
  8. SOLD RVibrake2 - This is an excellent and easy to use auxiliary braking system. It is the smallest and easiest to use for flat towing a car behind an RV. . Unlike other portable braking systems, RVibrake2's housing pushes against the floor pan (the rise in the floor where the driver’s seat is mounted) in the tow vehicle instead of the soft seat when activating. This allowed RVibrake2 to be designed as small as possible making RVibrake2 easy to install and easy to stow. (15% thinner than the original RVibrake). We bought it 2 years ago for $1050, and have used it for 2 month-long trips (approx 6000 miles), without any problems. I am selling my RV and no longer need it. It comes in its original box, complete with brake, manual, wireless monitor, antenna, and breakaway system. You can order accessories from the manufacturers website: http://rvibrake.com/collections/shop I am asking $395 plus shipping (approx $30 to most states, or you can pick it up in San Antonio, Tx with $0 shipping). You can contact me at CONBOECK at SBCGLOBAL.NET (at= @), or call me at (TWO ONE ZERO)6533633.
  9. The Owners Manual PLUS the Motorhome Dinghy Towing Guide BOTH say you can tow the 2010 Honda CRV AWD four down dinghy style and I am considering purchasing one, but looking for any personal experiences and advice prior to making a final decision. Thanks in advance John T
  10. Considering towing a Ford F150 behind a Class A Diesel. Anyone doing it and if so what are the pro's and con's of doing so? Also the Coach will be in the 35' to 40' range
  11. no longer available
  12. Still a year away from take off. After looking at trailers and deciding the approximate size and weight that we would want to tow, we used that information to select our tow vehicle, a 2016 Chevy Siliverado 4WD Flex Fuel 4.10 Standard Bed which tows up to 13k conventional and 14k 5th wheel. I will be spending some time at a local hitch place checking out options but I would appreciate hearing from those of you who tow both types of hitches. Right now I am feeling "long" with just the truck, before adding a trailer. We won't be getting a trailer until probably early spring next year so we have time to research and figure out what setup is right for us to fulltime with. We would like a trailer 25 foot or less in size, nothing larger. - I know the 5th will shorten the overall trailer plus hitch length. - I know a conventional hitch will give me full access to the entire bed for storage and make our life easier. We have a locking cover for the truck bed and put in a floor and tailgate liner (did not go up the sides as that was $300 more plus tax and we are saving for our trailer). If we feel we can handle whatever length we would end up with, we would prefer to go with the conventional. If it's "too long' (FOR US - I know some of you can drive very long things and are quite comfortable with that but we are not) we would have to go with the 5th. Questions: 1.How much storage space would we have for storage in the truck bed (6' 6" bed) if we had the 5th wheel hitch in the bed? 2. For those of you who have towed with both - what is your advice? 3. For anyone towing with a conventional hitch, are you comfortable with that setup and how long is your trailer? Thanks to anyone taking the time to answer. Christine
  13. I'm looking for something to tow 4 down behind my class c winnie. I can trade a 2006 Toyota Sienna if that sounds interesting. The only criteria is that it has 3 seatbelts in the back. Ready to tow would be awesome. Oh and inexpensive! email me at: escuelaviejaadventures at gmail bit.ly/autismroadtrip
  14. I have a Smart fortwo cabriolet for sale with 37,000 miles on it. It's been taken very good care of and is in excellent condition. The wheels have been upgraded, stereo added, tinted windows and has air conditioning. I live in Castle Rock, CO and if interested, please call Josh at 303-594-6970.
  15. japanstan

    Smart Car for Sale

    I am selling my 2012 Smart Car fortwo Cabriolet. It has 37,000 miles on it and has air, stereo, tinted windows and upgraded wheels. It's in great shape, never smoked in, interior is perfect and needs a new home. Looking for $8,000 for it. Please call Josh with questions @ 303-549-6970. I live in Castle Rock, CO.
  16. In my research, I've been obsessing over weight. No, not MY weight (different issue, wrong forum), but weights and weight ratings of 5th wheels and the payload & towing capacity of trucks. I've been doing some math and wanted to run some numbers by the members here to make sure I'm not out in left field. To set expectations, I'm the kind of guy who likes to over-engineer things. I like to design in cushion, or buffer, into things to keep away from problems and stay within safety margins. I don't like to take chances with things that are important to me. This tendency definitely applies in this case. I'd like to keep this as a focused academic discussion. I don't want this to go down the rat-hole of MDT vs HDT; I'm just interested in the trade-offs between towing capacity and payload. For this discussion, let's take the following specs from an example luxury 5th wheel: Shipping Weight: 13140 Carry Capacity: 3745 Hitch: 2885 GVWR: 16885 To make the math a little easier, we'll round up the hitch and GVWR to 3000 & 17000, respectively. This tells me I need a truck that can tow at least 17,000 pounds and has an available payload (after passengers, fuel, etc) of 3,000 pounds. For this discussion, let's consider the following two trucks. They are both crew cab (for personal reasons) DRW models. As configured, their maximum ratings are as follows: TRUCK 1: 5th Wheel Max Trailer Weight: 24000 Max Payload: 6870 Curb Weight: 7800 GCWR: 32100 TRUCK 2: 5th Wheel Max Trailer Weight: 31200 Max Payload: 5300 Curb Weight: 8600 GCWR: 40400 In addition, we'll assume 37.5 gallons of diesel fuel, for a weight of 281.25 pounds, and one adult and two kiddos, which we'll pin at 400 pounds total. That's 682 pounds (rounded up) of payload before we get to the hitch weight of the 5th wheel. For the academic discussion, we now have the basic numbers we need. In my mind, I compare the trucks as follows: TRUCK 1: 5th Wheel Max Trailer Weight: 24000 5th Wheel GVWR: 17000 Delta: 7000 Cushion % (Delta/Max Rating): 29% Max Payload: 6870 5th Wheel Hitch Weight: 3000 Fuel/Passengers: 682 Delta: 3188 Cushion % (Delta/Max): 46% Total Combined Weight Max: 25482 (Trailer Max + passenger/fuel + truck curb weight) GCWR Cushion lbs: 5718 GCWR Cushion %: 18% TRUCK 2: 5th Wheel Max Trailer Weight: 31200 5th Wheel GVWR: 17000 Delta: 14200 Cushion % (Delta/Max Rating): 45% Max Payload: 5300 5th Wheel Hitch Weight: 3000 Fuel/Passengers: 682 Delta: 1618 Cushion % (Delta/Max): 30% Total Combined Weight Max: 25482 (Trailer Max + passenger/fuel + truck curb weight) GCWR Cushion lbs: 14118 GCWR Cushion %: 35% Here are my takeaways from this comparison: Truck 2 has a massive advantage when it comes to towing capacity and GCWR, obviously. However, given the GVWR of the trailer, the trailer isn't quite 55% of the towing capacity of the truck. Even with my conservative, safety-conscious approach, this seems like massive overkill. The trailer is just shy of 71% of the towing capacity of Truck 1, giving a 29% cushion in towing capacity. This seems more than adequate for a cushion. Truck 1, then, has the advantage in payload. At a 46% and 3188 pound cushion, it seems a much better choice than Truck 2's 30% and 1618 pound cushion. This appeals to me because that extra 1570 pounds of Truck 1's payload would allow me to better outfit the truck with more things like auxiliary fuel tanks, tool boxes, beefier 5th Wheel hitch, and so on. From this data, and from my perspective, it would seem that Truck 1 is the better choice. It has a very comfortable towing capacity cushion while offering better payload capacity. What concerns me is that I'm missing something in the towing capacity equation that matters, or that the 29%/7000 pound towing cushion isn't enough for some reason. Am I missing anything?
  17. I am shopping for a 30-35ft class A motor home. Plan on going full time.My question is I am driving a 2011 Ford Fusion, is this too much car? Should I get something smaller? Ten years ago we had a 1994 30ft Brave & pulled a Toyota with no problems at all. We were not ready to go full time & my wife's 5 kids all wanted to use it,so I sold it. Sorry I sold it but knew it would not last long in other's hands. I have learned a lot from this group & look forward the road ahead. Thank you & Happy Motoring.George Lewis Charlotte NC
  18. So we are narrowing our RV purchase to a 31 ft class C, we wanted a smaller RV (26) so we wouldn't have to tow but realized it wouldn't have the storage we need. We found out that our Honda CR-V is perfect for towing. We were getting ready to sell both our cars. Our question is how difficult or inconvenient is it to not have a tow vehicle with you. Are they absolutely necessary or only a convenience? And how difficult is it to tow a vehicle when neither one of us has experience driving an RV? As a side note, we notice many full timers drive Class A are they inherently better than a class C? We are taking baby steps since we will only full time for 6 months to a year but not sure if Class A's are just a general preference or built better? Thanks!
  19. Have a Stowmaster tow bar made by Roadmaster which we no longer use. Works fine. Comes with cover. Rides on front of vehicle Location is Ocala, FL Asking $300. New ones go for $495 at CW. Email rbroockmann@yahoo.com or call or text 816-456-8372.
  20. My wife and I just took the plunge last week and purchased our first RV. It's a lovely 2015 Jayco Precept 31ul. (on a side note, it drives like a car, WOW) Anyway, I am a photographer and videographer I have no interest in spending all my time in an RV park. To that end I really would like to bring our Jeep 4 door wrangler with us. I have been quoted a couple of grand to get a Blue Ox tow bar solution that seems very well thought of and I am happy to proceed. That said I realized after a little research that if I were to purchase an 18 ft car hauler trail for about a third more, I would have the flexibility to bring the jeep or the family compact or the quads, etc depending on the trip. Other than the obvious issue of having to find a place to put the trailer once I get there, I was wondering if of you far more experience car-pullers had any insight on the ease of travel and the pros and cons of pulling vs. carrying. Thanks a million in advance! Robert
  21. Hi, I am a new member and was planning to full time in a Scamp 13 towed by a Subaru Forester. Do you all think I would be OK pulling a Scamp 13 with a tow capacity of 1500 pounds , or should I sell the Forester? Thanka
  22. WinIrene

    Towing

    We recently traded our class c motorhome for a 29 foot class a. We have a jeep that we towed behind the class c with no problem and want to know if we need to get an brake system for the new motorhome. Anyone know?
  23. I'm trying to find anyone towing a Honda Pilot. Although Honda does not recommend this, I have read if the speed stays below 65mph the transmission will stay at a safe temperature. Does anyone know of anyone towing a Honda Pilot (4 wheels flat)? I'd just like to contact them to see how many miles they have doing it? Thanks Rod.07HondaPilotflattowing.txt07HondaPilotflattowing.txt
  24. I need a little help. I have a F350 dually pulling a 35 foot fifth wheel. Gross weight around 17k with water and the usual "stuff" Pulling from north Georgia recently, I took I-285W around Atlanta. There was substantial construction on the north end of the perimeter with 20 miles of patched concrete. This was some kind of rough road. Traveling a very conservative 40 miles p/hr almost shook the filling from my teeth! I don't have air bags on the trunk and using a standard 5th wheel hitch. There has to be a better way to pull and smooth out the ride. Talking with the buddies, some say air bags on the truck, other say a fifth wheel hitch with air bags, some say both. Before I blow the bank account on this one, any suggestions are greatly appreciated before I shake my 5th wheel to oblivion!
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