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Hi, so this is a head-scratcher of a first post: I just landed at my destination after five days of nonstop travel (as in, no time to even cook or clean, had to be here by a certain date - not my preferred way to travel, but duty calls). My fridge has been set to the middle setting this entire time, running on gas. I have warm tilapia, room-temperature eggs, and a tepid jar of pickles (among other things) stinking up my motorhome. To give you some context, this fridge has been a very low-key problem child since shortly after I acquired the RV last summer. The thermocouple probe in the fridge compartment went bad and it started freezing EVERYTHING/running constantly - so I just disconnected it, set the fridge temperature/cooling cycle frequency manually with the slider, and coped with the blinky light that means "aaaaahhhh, I can't find the signal from the thermocouple!" up until about... I think two weeks ago? Around that time I noticed that it had stopped blinking, but the fridge was still cooling to the correct temperature for the setting, same as ever. Apparently something new happened during the last few days while I was wolfing down takeout on the road, and now it's just straight up broken. Some preliminary testing reveals the following: - If I set the fridge to 110v, I don't hear anything other than the "door is open" sensor click when I open/shut the door. This is, as far as I know, normal...? BUT I just connected to shore power, so I don't know if the fridge will cool down overnight if I leave it on electric. - If I set the fridge to gas, keep the door closed, and put it on its coldest possible setting, I do not hear the gas burner light (it's got electric ignition and I know what that sounds like when it lights). At all. Even though it should be on since the fridge is warm..... - But if I open the fridge door with it set to gas/coldest......... the gas burner lights right up and stays on UNTIL I SHUT THE DOOR. Then it poofs right out and I am left sad and thoroughly confused. What on earth would cause this?!?!?! Is there some other "smart" sensor in there that's gone bad? Do I need to pull it and tip it upside down? Do I need to make some sort of blood sacrifice to get it to work again? Or just pony up the cash to replace a decade-old RV fridge? Thank you for reading this wall of text, and if you have any idea as to what's going on or how to fix this, please comment and I'll try to follow along.
A law firm is going after Norcold and Dometic for RV refrigerator fires: Hagens Berman is investigating Norcold and Dometic for these companies' defective gas-absorption refrigerators that can explode or catch fire. The defective refrigerators have been installed in thousands of motorhomes, trailers, fifth-wheels and pop-ups, as well as boats. We believe Dometic and Norcold should be held responsible for this public safety hazard. The defective refrigerators jeopardize the safety of RV and boat owners and damage property. Norcold and Dometic's gas-absorption fridges contain a cooling unit with a steel boiler tube that can crack, allowing highly flammable gases – including hydrogen gas – to escape. Experts discovered that a seam in the tube corrodes relatively rapidly even as the rest of the metal appears in good condition. More here -- http://www.hbsslaw.com/cases-and-investigations/cases/Legal-Investigation-Norcold-RV-Refrigerators
We are full timing in a 2002 Fleetwood Southwind 37U. our Norcold 1200LRIM fridge just quit cooling yesterday and after some reading, we have decided that repairing this fridge would be money better spent on replacing it with a household fridge for both better performance and safety. I am reasonably competent at DIY but don't really have time to tackle this quickly so we are looking for a place to have the job done in the Dallas/Fort Worth Texas area. Ideally, we would shop the fridge ourselves to catch any sales. Does anyone know of local places that handle this type of job and would be open to us providing the fridge? Michael