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Found 14 results

  1. Exile

    Starter/battery issues

    First, the facts: engine starts right up, so long as it turns over. It will start when barely turning over, even after an attempt when it doesn’t turn over, so this is not an engine issue batteries (4) are whatever the seller had laying around, 925, 650, 950, 825 A two batteries showed bad with cheapo tester at rated amps, but showed good at 750a my tester would not test one battery, would just restart the menu when attempted Truck starts after sitting in shop on charger charger says all batteries are 97% individually, and 87% when connected to all truck doesn’t like to start after sitting out for several days not connected, cranks slowly or not at all replaced voltage regulator, get 14 v when driving now starts ok after driving my conclusions: i have a drain somewhere- i can fix that, or disconnect batteries batteries are not great best case would just be to buy all new batteries, or better yet, all new truck, but would prefer to understand the issues at play here my questions will batteries work ok in a group if they are different ratings? will a higher amp not great battery pull the others down even if it tests ok at lower amperage ? what kind of amps do i need for a s60 12.7 to start? Thank you for your patience and assistance.
  2. I've been running 6 Trojan 105s off my solar system and original setup. They have been seriously discharged a few times but seem to be ok now. My question is this: how can I determine the life I can expect is remaining in this battery bank?
  3. I have this question about keeping my fifth wheel batteries charged. We will be away for 9 weeks this summer - May and June, and 1 week in July. I will be leaving my fifth wheel in the Tucson area. I am concerned about keeping the batteries charged while gone. I was thinking about keeping the rig plugged into the pedestal (I have a surge guard). My other options would be to use a battery tender. Someone also mentioned using a battery trickle charger. If we went the battery tender/battery trickle charge method, would we need two battery chargers – one for each battery? Finally, is it even necessary to worry about keeping the batteries charged? We have a battery kill switch, just fyi. FYI, we have two Group 29 wet-cell batteries. Thoughts? Suggestions? Pros and Cons of each option? * Right now, we are concentrating on the batteries and know there are more things to do when temporarily storing the fifth wheel. I’ll make a separate post to get that feedback.
  4. I contacted Battle Born and asked them how to properly store their batteries for winter as I may not be using my Travel Trailer until Spring. It couldn’t be any easier! Take a look.
  5. We have a campsite at a campground with permanently assigned sites. The campground has no power so I setup a bank of 4 6v Costco(interstate batteries) batteries in series parallel to run an inverter and some 12v led lighting. I have a 3amp/15amp Schumacher charger that I can plug in to my campers generator. I also have an 80w solarpanel 15amp charger and controller that I can use while not there but the amount of direct sun the the trees is not great, so there will be a lot of indirect light. My questions are, is my charger good enough to charge the batteries up fully during the day when generators are allowed and how accurate is the % display of the chargers using a battery bank? This weekend I ran it all day and it said it gained about 7% charge and was at 72%. An hour later it reported 100% charge. Second is during the week while I am gone the only draw on the batteries will be a Norcold Propane fridge that requires 12v for the board and sensors. Will the solar panel be enough to keep up with the fridge? There isn't a period of time that I am not drawing on the batteries to let them sit 12 hours to get a reading with a volt meter so I am not sure what to do to figure out what charge they have if the charger isn't accurate.
  6. I need new batteries for RV internal batteries. Is there any place close to Delta, UT?
  7. Anyone using Relion Lithium-ion Batteries on your RV? If so, how have they worked?
  8. The Wheelinit.us blog is posting some great info about their recent upgrade to Lithium batteries and additional solar panels. Not only are they providing great info about the whats and whys of what they did, they provide a number of links, all in one spot, to a huge amount of technical detail about solar & batteries in RV's. Here are the first two entries. There are more entries to come in the near future. http://wheelingit.us/2016/02/24/the-big-beastly-solarbattery-upgrade-part-i-why/ http://wheelingit.us/2016/02/29/the-big-beastly-solarbattery-upgrade-part-ii-component-details/
  9. Ok, I've read everything that I could get my hands on regarding house batteries and 12v systems. I'm currently living full time (as of October 27) in a 1992 Mallard Sprinter that I bought used off of Craigslist. I have attended the Escapees Bootcamp, and thought that I had gotten my answer, but now I'm confused again. Should I be able to charge my phone in one of the 110 outlets from the house batteries? Or will they only run the 12v lights? I have no RV experience, and I'm not super handy when it comes to home/auto maintenance. I'm trying to learn, and forums have been super helpful. My basic question is: what can I expect to run off my house batteries? The reason I'm asking is because I've had quite the adventure trying to make sure that all of my systems were working properly, and some have influenced others, as you can imagine. When we first purchased the coach, the owner walked me through the systems, and I figured that it was mostly all common sense. I may have been a little starry eyed at the idea of finally finding a rig in my price range, available in the timeframe in which I required it. So everything *appeared* to be working. Once we hit the road, we spent the first weekend at a state park with electrical and water hookups -- learning how all that worked the first time was easy. Even had no issue dumping black and gray water the first time. Then we finally hit the open road, and had to spend one night in a Walmart parking lot. Much to my surprise, nothing seemed to be able to run off the house batteries. No lights, no water, nothing. To further complicate matters, I couldn't get the generator to start. So I thought there was an issue with the genny, and made an appointment to get it looked at. We continued our trip, confining our stays to places that had hookups. Over the course of time, and online research, I read that the engine alternator should be charging the house batteries, as well as shore power. Since we've been driving for a week, and hooking up to shore, I thought that the battery MUST be charged, and tried it again. No luck, but on a whim I tried to start the generator again. Chugging for a bit adn then VROOM it starts! Scratching my head and shrugging my shoulders, I cancel the appointment to have the genny looked at. It has not been a problem since, but I still don't understand the battery situation. It appears to be new, but I haven't gotten it tested yet. I'm far from home, and not even sure where or how to get it tested. An RV tech checking out my furnace touched it with a 12v tester and it lit up, so I'm guessing there is power in there. I should mention that the panel of lights that shows the charge level of the battery, as well as the fill level of our tanks is also on the fritz. When plugged into shore power, it shows the battery at full charge, but the moment we unplug it shows "L" which I'm guessing means Low = discharged. Sorry this post got so long, I'm hoping someone out there will take the time to read it and answer my question. Will the plugs in the rig work off the batteries? or only while plugged into shore power or off the generator?
  10. Hello, This is my first post and was hoping for verification on my Amps per Hour setup for dry camping. We are going on a weekend trip on our 22 foot travel trailer. We have LED light and not a lot of electronics on board. Not expecting for numbers, but if my thought process makes sense, assuming the numbers are correct. I found the items on my traile that work when not plugged in and found the amps per hour they use, then calculated how may of the item I havem I learned how to do this form this site: http://www.macandchris.com/ElectricalSystemSizing.htm Does the chart make sense? Items: Furnace- DC Amps 8, Hours Used- 3, AMPS Used- 24, AMPS per 24 hours -24 Water Pump- DC Amps 5, Hours Used -.2, AMPS Used- 1, AMPS per 24 hours -1 LED Lights- DC Amps .08, Hours Used- 2, AMPS Used- .16, AMPS per 24 hours -7 Radio- DC Amps- 1.5, Hours Used - 2, AMPS Used- 3, AMPS per 24 hours -3 Total AMPS Per 24 hours - 29.12 Using 2 6 v Golf Cart Batteries, total 180 AMPH, Usable AMPS 90 *** I made usable amps 90 because I believe once 50% is gone you need to recharge. 90 AMPS divided by 29.12 = 3.09 days before recharge.
  11. Update (4/18/15) -- The auction has ended and this item has sold! --------------------------- Hey guys, I have a Tri-Metric 2025-A (made by Bogart Engineering) with included wiring and 500A shunt up for sale on eBay. I know it's late notice, but as of this post, it's selling for $12.08 so if you have any interest at all, now's the time to act! I've reproduced the listing below, but if you have any questions about the monitor, feel free to ask here (via PM) and I'll answer them. Thanks! Link to the sale on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291431413470?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 ----------------------------- You are bidding on a Tri-Metric 2025-A Power Meter, with wiring/mounting box and 500A shunt included. The item was purchased new, tested once for intended use, but was never placed into production. As you might expect, it's in "virtually new" condition. Features: - Displays battery %age full, based on Amp-Hour measurements (more accurate than voltage) - Displays charging/discharging amps and wattage - Displays "days since charged" and "days since equalized" - High contrast display The meter also comes with a wall-mounting box, a 500A "shunt" to enable charging measurements, 25ft of 4-conductor cabling to connect meter to power and shunt, and a terminal lug as an optional landing point for cabling. Retail Price (just meter): $170 Retail Price (meter + shunt + cabling): $220 Website: http://www.bogartengineering.com/content/trimetrics Manual: http://www.bogartengineering.com/sites/default/files/docs/TM-2025%20Users%20Instructions9-11-12.pdf
  12. How do you clean and prevent future white powder forming in the battery compartment?
  13. Even after running my generator through the on-board converter, even for a couple of hours, the batteries never really get fully charged. I have recently been using a separate stand alone automatic 10 amp fast charger that will bring them up. The question is do I need to disconnect the batteries from the internal electrical system while using this outside charger? I have been but is it necessary to shut off the power inside the trailer - my wife hates this.
  14. I have been researching this issue and going back and forth. I don't mind venting, maintenance or keeping the upright position with flooded cells but I am somewhat torn on the issue of the apparent advantage AGM's have in recharging rate and whether that benefit justifies the cost. I am not going solar at this time but do think there is a strong liklihood that will happen. In the meanwhile I am planning a 500-600 amp battery bank and using the a honda eu2000 to recharge. I would like to minmize generator run time so the quicker recharge of the AGMs appeals to me. Anyway, two questions (1) can someone who has owned both tell me about the real world difference in recharge time between AGM and flooded cell, and (2) is there a significant benefit to AGM if I do move to solar. I know this has been discussed but I am seeing conflicting input and would like to hear some real world experiences. Thanks dave
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