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  1. Our Winegard Trav'ler Model SK-SWM3 has been on our coach for just under a year. It has worked perfectly, until yesterday. We got the message "No LNB Voltage" on our black control box. I went online and figured out that the problem was more than likely the cable running from the base of the unit up through the arm to the LNBF (eye box) had went bad. I called the tech that originally installed our unit (Satellite Steve, Coco, FL) and talked to him. He confirmed where we were and said he wouldn't respond 130 miles away to work on it under warranty. He did advise me that the short coax running up through the arm was more than likely the issue and explained how to replace it. Upon examining the 4' run of skinny coax I could not tell that it was damaged or bad. I purchased a 6' piece of regular TV coax from Walmart and replaced it. Error code went away and dish found all three sats so we are back in business. I will be calling Winegard today so they can document the issue plus send me a new cable. My one year warranty runs out at the end of January so I was lucky I guess. I hope the cable they send me will last longer than a year.
  2. Same issue but cable replacement from lnb to the turret did not fix it. I’ve confirmed the lnb and cable is good by trying it on my fixed satellite dish at my campground. Any suggestions? It’s definitely not the lnb or the lnb cable. It’s definitely not the cable supplying the camper from the turret.
  3. For Sault Ste Marie, your settings should be: Elevation: 26.7° Azimuth (true): 223.6° Azimuth (magn.): 231.1° Dish Skew: 118.4° And make sure your mounting post is dead level. Cover the two outer LNB's with foil and peak on the 119 sat on the center LNB. When aiming the azimuth, use the side plates of the mount for your sight line, not the LNB arm. With 119 peaked, 110 and 129 should lock in when the foil's removed with signals that may be improved some using only the elevation to fine tune them. Do not mess with the skew once it's set using the triangle pointer.
  4. I have DirecTv with a Winegard Travler dish. I have had this set up for over 3 years now. I purchased the rig in 2017. It came with the Travler already installed. The rig is a 2015 and the original owner purchased it in July of 2014 so I am guessing that the equipment is almost 6 years old. Everything worked fine in the past. I moved to a new location yesterday. The dish locked onto the satellites fine and all worked well. This morning I turned on the tv and all was well. This afternoon I turned on the tv and I got an error message from DirecTv, error code 775 saying that the receiver could not connect to the sat. I powered of the receiver and powered it back on but got the same error message. I then powered down the dish and powered the dish back on. The Winegard power box now says no power to LNB. I don’t even know what an LMB is or where it gets its power. Would appreciate any help troubleshooting this problem. Thanks in advance.
  5. With an automatic antenna (which can only "see" one satellite at a time), the Wally is a single-tuner receiver. This means you cannot view a second channel while recording on the first. The geeks on the satellite TV forums report that, if you set it up with a three-LNB antenna (a fixed antenna with three nodes like used in a residential installation), the Wally actually has a second tuner and will allow you to watch one channel and record another. I've never tested this claim. Rob TIP: use "Quote" when replying as I have here if you want to ask a question of a specific person.
  6. I have two purchased Hopper w/Slings (H2's) on my pay-as-you-go Outdoor account. There's mixed information from Dish about which equipment qualifies for an Outdoor account that can use the locals option in the My Dish app, so I can only say what's working for me. My antenna is a standard Dish 1000.4 full face dish on a tripod with a triple LNB that can swap for either arc reception. The folks at Dish4MyRV are a good source of information about the Outdoor account requirements.
  7. I seriously doubt they would replace your Traveler unit. We have a Traveler and a tripod but we want the new dish mounted on the roof of the RV spot and we will sell the tripod unit(we are using that now). We figure we have to pay for the Traveler conversion ourselves. They would need to switch out the LNB and update the Winegard box software. Way out of their league. If Dish bought Direct it would probably be years before any conversion would begin.
  8. Message no antenna connection. That means the controller is not connected to antenna. You can check the voltage and continuity on the antenna controller. PITA but a doable job. I would suspect that you will find a faulted controller cable or bad connection at the antenna. When the cable from from the LNB's is faulted then you won't receive some satellites. However the dish will align on the satellite arc. If aligned on the arc then on the turret you can check the voltage either ,13V or 18VDC. If good, then check continuity from turret to LNB. Or just call Winegard and order the 4 coax cable bundle. Bill
  9. I have a DishHD dish with a 1000.2 Eastern Arc LNB. The LNB is a Dish Pro Plus Twin Eastern Arc LNB. I'm using a Wally on the first port and want to connect a 2nd receiver. Tried to use the second port on the LNB. No luck. Can't find much info about a 2nd receiver. Has to be a simple fix. Anyone had any success with 2 receivers and this LNB?
  10. Well after changing the coax cable between the turret and the LNB, everything worked. Simple fix. Unfortunately just after I got it fixed it started to rain and I lost my signal. The clouds have pasted and I’ve got my signal back. Thanks all for your help and suggestions.
  11. The common cause is the cable from the turret and up the arm to the LNB, Low Noise Block amplifier, which is the stuff at the end of the arm. If you can read the voltage at the end of the arm. Should be 13V DC or 18VDC depending on polarity selected by the receiver for the channel selected. I have replaced that cable twice in ten years. Can be purchased from Winegard. Replacement requires being on the roof. Good luck, Bill
  12. This might help..... http://www.rvnetwork.com/search/?&q=LNB&search_and_or=or
  13. I have carefully dialed in a WA LNB to get the EA 61.5 and 72.7 sats on the 119/129 LNB's of a western arc set, albeit with poor signal levels. But it's just not possible to include the short 4.3 degree spread to the 77 sat with the remaining 9 degree spread LNB.
  14. I have the small dish on a tripod. The small dish is the 1000.2, right? It's been 3+ yrs since I've cared, so I have forgotten what I have since it works everywhere I set up. Hybrid triple LNB, maybe? I don't remember. Regardless, it is the same LNB I've used everywhere I stopped between Fla and MT, and back. Now working our way to western LA, then western CO. The double LNB for the EA is sitting in a box. Changing them is more of a PITA than it is worth, to me.
  15. I'm with you on that. It's interesting that you can have a Hopper on a Pay-As-You-Go plan, but not DISH Outdoors. Or are they the same thing? What are the advantages of a DISH Outdoors account? Not if you're just using a portable 1000.2. In fact, just replace your current 1000.2 DPP LNBF with an Eastern Arc Hybrid LNB (or a Western Arc Hybrid LNB). Then you only have to run a single coax from the dish to your Hopper 3. A DPH42 is only needed when you're connected to a DPP LNB, like a Winegard Travler.
  16. Find a way to get on the roof and swap the connections on the turret marked A with the one marked B. If that doesn't work, swap the original A with C. And then call winegard and order a replacement turret cable. https://winegard.com/products/satellite-tv/roof-mounted-antennas/travler/dish-bell-hd-travler-replacement-lnb-to-turret-cable Thats a lot cheaper than paying someone else to do it.
  17. Those are not good signal levels, so I expect you see rain fade fairly often. Digital signals are almost always a "go/no go" source though, so it's not surprising they work well in fair weather. The signal level scale used on the Hopper is a relative scale that uses no standard measurement values. It's not likely to match any reasonably good meter like the Super Buddy. I'm surprised you had trouble getting 119 in the SE. I recall a few places in southern GA and FL where 129 was difficult due to the low elevation, but not 119. Personally, I don't mind the 4-5 minutes it takes me to remove the two small screws and do the cable swapping needed to change LNB's for the best arc for my location. Hitting sats at a 50+ degree elevation with the correct eastern arc LNB in FL means I can often get strong service within the length or width of the campsite regardless of the height of the surrounding trees.
  18. Well, that is a 1000.2 dish, and it is a WA LNB. It's really odd that you're able to get all three EA sats though, given the WA spacing. The 61.5 signal level shown is fairly low, but obviously it's there. What level do you see on the other two sats? The photo below is the triple LNB used on the 1000.4 dish. Notice the narrow spacing for the 72.7 and 77 sats, compared to the wide space to the 61.5 sat.
  19. That is a VERY GOOD question, and I have NO IDEA. But, my WA LNB is installed and when I hit the ID soft key on my Super Buddy it identifies 61 on one LNB and 72 on another. When I hit the "Test Installation" on my Hopper, I also get 61, 72, and 77.
  20. I am setting up my Dish dish in TN about a half hr north of Memphis. I started pointing to the WA with the new WA triple LNB I have for my 1000.2 and Hopper3. I had the tripod plumb and the mast level, pointing at the correct az with the correct el and sk. The SB was set for WA, and 1000.2. The "LNB OFF" was displayed on the LNB soft key. I pushed it and the SB turned off. This happened 3 times and I had zero luck getting the sat signal. After about 30 min, I swapped out the LNB for the EA LNB. I keep the LNB coax on LNB 1. When I swapped out the EA dual LNB and changed the SB to EA, along with changing everything else (az, el, sk) for EA, I was able to lock onto the EA sats within seconds. "LNB OFF" was displayed. When I pushed the LNB softkey, "LNB1" was then displayed. Pushed it again and "LNB2" was displayed. Pushed it again and "LNB OFF" was displayed. Anyone know WTH happened when I was working with the WA LNB/settings? Is it possible my new WA LNB is broken? Or is it just operator error?
  21. Drilling and cutting the arm makes me a little nervous. If I dork it up and can't find another arm, I have to buy an entire dish setup.
  22. While it's physically possible to swap the standard western arc LNB for an eastern arc LNB, the Trav'ler's controller doesn't know how to align with those satellites. With the western arc LNB, it is possible to manually access one of the eastern arc sats though. I think it's the 72.7 sat, but I'm not sure.
  23. In the early years, when I was trying to use the cheap $20 meter, I would spend hours trying to aim the dish. Sometimes in desperation, I would set the dish for the least meter reading and would get one or two satellites. I even tried the aluminum foil over the 110 and 129 LNBs to aim. No luck. Then I learned about the multiplex switch in the LNBF head. The switch allows any of the LNBs to connect to any of the coax cables. There in is the game. You connect a cable to one of the LNBF coax connections and assume that you are connected to the respected LNB. That hasn't been the case since DPP Dishes. A dish receiver tells the multiswitch which LNB it wants by either changing the voltage on the wire from 13 to 18 volts for 110 or 119, by sending a 20 KHz tome for 119, or by sending a DESC command for 129. Without the presence of the selection, your cable can be electronically connected to any of the three LNBs. Guess what the default 13 volts selects? Satellite 110. So to sure you are using 119 for the WA, you need a selection that connects your meter to the 119 LNB. I found meters that generate a 20 KHz worked well as the 119 LNB is connected to the meter. This is why the aluminum foil system doesn't work. If your meter is electronically connected to a LNB that is covered by foil, you will get no signal. For the EA, satellite 72.7 is the aiming satellite. Since the EA LNBFs are later technology than the WA DPP LNBFs, the multiswitch may only respond to the 20 KHz tone or the DESC commands. The thing to remember is beccause the coax in connected to a particular port on the LNBF, it may not electronically be connected to the LNB you think. How to select the correct LNB, set the receiver on the Point Dish screen so that all tuners are set to the desired satellite (119 or 72.7)? This is import on multiple tuner receivers and they can switch at the coax connections also. The more reliable method is to have a smart meter that can do the multiswitch selection. A real smart meter will also identify the satellite. The Acutrac 22 Pro meter I used to use generated a 20 KHz tone so I was aiming with the 119 LNB but I could lock on any of the satellites and only the receiver Switch Check could tell me if I was correct. When I got the First Strike FS-1 the meter could issue the 20 KHz tone and also the DESC commands and when I locked onto a satellite, it would read the satellite ID. The Super Buddy 29 meter does the 20 KHz, the DESC commands, Satellite ID and also works with the Hybrid LNBFs. The Super Buddy also has all the settings for a dish setup in it memory. Using the receiver tone may work for the older receivers but doesn't do much good if the dish is 150' from the RV. I found the Hopper 3 signal strength meter is rather useless until your are already locked onto the satellites. I found this when I was trying to use the FS-1 with the Hopper 3.
  24. Been a lot of information on what system to use and how easy it is to point a dish but the ones that are giving advice have been doing it for years and are biased to that system and it works great for them. Now because you have never done it before it can be a very long hard learning experience, we started out with a single LNB Direct TV dish and it had a short learning experience and it worked out great but when we went to a two LNB Dish Network dish it became harder but it was still manageable. When we decided to go HD on Dish Network I didn't want to deal with setting up a 3 LNB dish so we went simple and went with a Tailgater and after after 6 years we we changed to a Wingard X2 and never looked back. If you want to be able to setup a dish easley for one nigh stops or all winter stops with no long leaning curve go with a automatic system, I prefer the X2 because of the ability for both east and west sats, also the large reflector on the X2 gives me a stronger signal. I've helped newbies with setting up a standard dish and it can be very frustrating to them and me at times, most of them have been told how easy it is and they find out that it's not and some just give up and most end up with a automatic. The biggest problem I have found with automatic dishes is the coax in the rigs themselves. Denny
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