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About mscans

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/29/1946

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    Apopka, Florida
  • Interests
    Aparently not much of anything. Just sold off the RV, wife not interested and I am too old to be single again....but that is a thought. Gotta find a plan "B".

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  1. Check here. http://www.loveyourrv.com/update-boondocking-remote-solar-panel-mod/ . Other separate posts for his batteries, cat. fuse install and a video of the major install that he had help with are also on the site, just have to search, he has a lot of info listed. His background is an electronic repair guy so he is knowledgeabe in things using electrons for fuel. I make a point of checking his site weekly, I like his "style". Good luck in your travels.
  2. check ray's site agan. he posts a LOT of info on the install, wire sizes, accessories etc. His reason for the PMW system echoes Handybobs as well. Again, recheck his site, your needed info is there.
  3. see loveyourrv.com for info on the Trimetrics "system". Ray likes the setup and spends a LOT of time boondocking exclusively using solar with the Trimetrics.
  4. 50 amp power management

    You might look at this. Seems to work, as per some youtube videos I have seen, not tried it myself.
  5. Solar panel question

    9 X 4= 36 so they are the correct size for todays systems. Brackets may have been removed and reinstall upside down for storage but are usually just nut and bolted on not a "hard" connection.
  6. Propane Regulator Adjustment

    I think that I "corrected" my post before you corrected me, you are right however!
  7. Propane Regulator Adjustment

    According to "propane 101" the set point should be 10.5" of water not 14. Hand slipped on the keyboard, I know you know better. In the real world 10.5 to 14" of H2O. but should be SET to 10.5 - 11.0 " and not drift higher than 14".
  8. RV converter problem

    PD has a direct retrofit for your unit https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/power-centers/inteli-power-pd4135-acdc-distribution-panel-power-converter-with-built-in-charge-wizard/ that comes with the charge wizard and is a 40A unit, similar to your existing pos... uh unit. I had a PD with an add-on (I installed) wizard and thought it was great. the batteries on my class A (used) were bad and had to be replaced soon after I installed the wizard but it was a short in one of the batteries that was the culprit, not the charge wizard. Once the batteries were replaced, the PD and wizard had them fully charged in a couple of days. Boondock usage showed very good performance after that point. Unlike other converters the wizard will not dry out the battery as it will drop to 13.2 V or so when the battery is fully chsrged. let us know if or how it works out. Florida Mike
  9. Tire Question

    John, I live in the Apopka area (nice state park here by the way) but don't get out due to health issues. I do "travel" vicariously through the Escapee magazine and several blogs, I do miss the RV life!
  10. Tire Question

    John, good for you. heading in the right direction. your best bet is have the weight and distribution taken care of and other items such as tires and spring "pieces" the best you can get and well maintained. Can't make a battleship from a rowboat!
  11. Tire Question

    When you hear "package" they are right. the weight is first borne by the tire rubber on the bottom of the tire, that transfers to the air inside the tire and that pressure effects the rim as well, it can blow if overloaded. You do know what pressure the rims are rated for , right? That weight is transferred to the wheel lugs to the end of the axle and then through the wheel bearings to the axle housing. That weight is transferred to the springs system (shackles, clamps, bolts hangers etc) and then to the frame of the vehicle. (I am sure I missed something.) ALL of these items are engineered (hopefully) to handle the weight rating for the vehicle. As in any chain, the total strength is dependent upon the strength of the weakest part of the system. The vehicle capability can NOT be increased by improving only one or a even a few of the above parts. Sorry but as usual "there ain't no such thing as a free lunch" Happy trails and enjoy the adventure!
  12. Fresh Water Sanitation

    Try the following , it works and is tried and true. Sanitizing Your Fresh Water System.doc
  13. Yep, that's the one. I also believe that there is no real difference between the flange on an RV and a S & B so it should work on either. The rubber seal usually used in an RV is because of the normal heat the RV is exposed to during some storage cycles. Wax does NOT like that!
  14. The last time I R & R' d the home toilet I found a blue synthetic flexible seal kit at Home Depot ( Fluidmaster Better Than Wax) PN 7530 that I used. It comes with spacers, hardware and instructions for installation depending on floor heights. The flange also has a better locating structure so that the toilet is properly centered on the flange, mine was not I found out when I removed it. The kits were not expensive so I bought a spare Just In Case. Good luck, should be a pice of cake!
  15. 2- Stage Propane Regulator Vent Leak

    This vent is to allow pressure equalization across the regulator diaphragm and ANY propane leak here is an indication of regulator failure. I would recommend turning off the gas bottles immediately and getting the regulator replaced before turning them back on. The diaphragm could rupture at any time and generate a real serious (read large) leak that could lead to bad things happening! mike