Kirk W

When you get to the Escapade, once you have been parked in your site you will need to go inside and register. Near the place that you register will be the hospitality desk and there you will find a list of activities that need volunteers to help out. Each person who volunteers for 3 hours or more will then receive a special souvenir pin that can only be gotten by volunteering. There are many areas that seek volunteers to help. Usually the first thing to fill is that of driving the stretched golf carts that roam the campgrounds and activities areas to provide transportation to and from events. There are always several other areas and exactly what is there varies from year to year. Security always needs volunteer help and that is how I got involved with that and eventually became security team leader. Of the 3 Escapades where we volunteered, I found security to have been the most rewarding and that was the reason that I accepted a position on the staff. Volunteers do things like checking for attendee badges to enter the activity areas and evening entertainment. At the entertainment there are seats reserved for the security team and the volunteers are released to those reserved seats just before the show starts. In some cases the volunteers help with traffic control at the entry gates and such, but you are never expected to be a policeman or to do anything of that sort. After 10 years with the security team I have retired from the staff but it is some of my fondest memories.

If you were in Livingston, TX you would find that pretty much all financial organizations understand the law & related banking regulations, and they work with fulltime RV folks on a frequent basis. Unfortunately, the reach of the Escapees seems to be pretty limited in distance because we are too small a part of the the financial market. Polk Co. TX is a rural area with a small population so the Escapees are a very significant market there.

If you could somehow cause the brake of the Bolt to apply with your motorhome braking, like an auxiliary brake system, that would make use of some of that wasted energy. Dragging the regenerative braking all of the time would burn extra fuel.

Is it sheltered from the wind, as that should help?

Why not put the propane bottle for the lower furnace into the space that is protected? When we were in Maine at an NWR they had the heating oil tank and the 250 gallon propane tank both inside of a heated space with temperature set to 50°.

I went back and added the windchill chart from the link to my post, for those not familiar with the effect. Having lived in Cheyenne, WY for 18 years, I'm quite familiar with it but others may not be. The chart does agree with your original post. I was pointing out that your expected high temperature for the day is -14° and the expected low is -29°! Add a 10 mph wind to the low and you get a -58°. Your weather makes us glad to be in TX but it still feels cold to us after living here so long.

Today AM Clouds/PM Sun -14°/-29° Wind: N 14 mph Fri 12 | Day Fri 12 | Day -14° Fri 12 | Night -29° Cloudy skies early, followed by partial clearing. High -14F. Winds N at 10 to 20 mph. 10 Day Weather-Kalispell, MT

7:00 am, Mesquite TX temperature is 33° F

That is a very common symptom and nearly always indicates that the ignition probe has failed. The same probe that supplies the spark to light the furnace also detects the heat of the burning propane. If it does not send a signal back to the circuit board that it detects the heat from the burning propane, it will try 2 more times and then go into safety lockout. If you turn the furnace off and after a brief pause turn it back on it will repeat that same sequence. Over the many years that I have had an RV and also helped others repair their RV furnaces, I have probably seen that issue about 20 times and nearly all of them were the ignition probe. If you do not have one, you can download a copy of the Suburban Service Manual from this link. On page 7 of that manual the troubleshooting guide addresses your symptoms.

If you are thinking of 2024 models, none of the towing guides that I'm familiar with are out for 2024 yet. I'm wondering where you read that? I found the following from Edmonds. But if you're looking at the current fourth-generation model, only the hybrid and plug-in hybrid models are towable. Finally, the vast majority of states require most vehicles being flat-towed to be equipped with auxiliary brake systems that work in tandem with the motorhome's brakes. ~ Nov 30, 2023

This is an Australian unit and the "mains" to the lower right side are 240V0-ac. Notice the power plug, It connects to 230V but I am pretty sure that the circuit board converts that supply to 12V since all other voltages are labeled as 12V it does show both a 12V heating element and also a ac heating element so that probably is 230V

As I look at those pictures again, you may well be right. It would be interesting to know if he is aware of this. After doing a little digging I was able to find this one. The claim: Elon Musk developed a heater that reduces electric bills to $0 It seems that I was too quick to buy into the Musk connection.

Dometic RM7401L Wiring Diagram

Elon Musk Reveals the Secret to Heating Your Home This Fall And Winter... All While Cutting Your Heating Bill to Basically $0. Elon's latest scam?

The red is positive and the brown is negative. If you look at the full schematic from my link you can see that they supply the 12V heater, with the red positive side passing through the circuit board.

While it is only a guess, at this point I would suspect that something was wrong with the way you changed the wiring and that something on the circuit board has failed, but that is only a guess. Additional information on that refrigerator seems to be nonexistent, other than I did find the installation and operation manual online. If I could examine the circuit board I might be able to figure out at least some of the operation to know what to check. The red wire from the terminal block should have 12V as it then goes to the circuit board, in on x103 and out on x104 to the heater and the is return side back to the terminal block. There is something on the circuit board that turns that power on and off as called for. The fact that nothing on the circuit board is lighting up tends to support my suspicion that the problem is on that circuit board. In all probability, a qualified Dometic service tech could probably repair the refrigerator for less cost than to replace it, but that too is only a guess. I'm afraid that this is the best that I can do.

While there are state banking laws, the regulations coming from the Patriot Act are federal laws and they apply to all financial institutions in the USA, no matter where they are located. As Mark previously stated, there is provision for an alternative address in the banking regulations but it can be difficult to get the people you are dealing with to use the provisions.

I looked over the meter specs and it should be just fine for trouble shooting what you are. That shows that your problem is not the power supply. That is exactly what you should have. That is the proper way to measure the voltages. The problem is that we do not know what the circuits on that board are so can only guess at what the voltages should be. To do more you need information about the circuit board and what it has on it. We need a service manual or a circuit board schematic and I am unable to find either of them.

If you are a member of Escapees RV Club and using their mail service, let me suggest that you call the business office (Phone 936-327-8873) and get help & advice there. Changing what you call your box number will do nothing for you as businesses use a USPS data base to verify all addresses and no matter what you write down the bank will know that you use a PMB andare trying to hide that. There is an alternative allowed in the baking laws that set address requirements and the Escapees have dealt with that many times. As an alternative, you could change to the TX Escapees address as the businesses in the Livingston area are very familiar with those alternatives and have no problems dealing with them.

To me it sounds like something that you did when rewiring the refrigerator power has caused a failure somewhere internally but that is only a guess. Since we do not have a schematic for the circuit board, it is impossible to know what voltages should be where other than the terminal block shown in the schematic and I suspect that the white terminal block in the upper left of your picture is what is on the schematic. You might be able to figure out the layout of the circuit board by tracing the foil paths on the back of the board in your picture. As to the fuse, 1.5 ohms is probably just poor meter quality or poor connection as a fuse will normally read 0 ohms when good. Did you remove the fuse from the circuit when you tested it as that must be done for the reading to be accurate. It would not be a bad idea to try a new fuse as Vern has suggested since we are really just guessing. If it isn't the fuse and if there is 12V supply where shown on that terminal block, my next guess would be that the circuit board is bad, but that too is only a guess since I have no service manual or data on the circuit board so have no way to do any valid testing of it.

How did you test the fuse? The only way to be absolutely sure is to check it for continuity with an ohm meter. If you didn't do that, at least replace the current one with a new one of the same ratings. The first thing that you need to understand is that the voltage from your battery is not always 12V, even under normal conditions with a good battery. A fully charged battery will supply as much as 12.6V when fully charged and can be as high as 13.6V if recently charged. As the battery is depleted it is normal for the voltage to slowly fall. Most RV appliances will operate down to 10.5-11V supply. If you measure between the + and the - on the schematic you do need to have at least 10,5V. Other points on the circuit board could be quite different depending on where you are reading in the circuit. Just what you should find at any point depends on where in the circuit that point is. Anything supplied by the mains supply should be at or near 240V but that voltage is alternating current and probably would damage the device that you are using. I strongly advise you to at the least, get a cheap multimeter and learn to use it from the instructions that will come with it because there is simply no way of knowing what is wrong with the refrigerator that you have without one. If you are rewiring things in the RV without the use of a reasonably good meter and a basic knowledge of electricity and RV electric systems, I am not surprised that things are not going well. People are not often seriously hurt by 12V systems but it does happen and the 240V mains is very dangerous. The problem with your refrigerator might be something as simple as a bad fuse or a poor connection, but it is also possible that the circuit board or other electrical components have been damaged or destroyed. If you plan to continue to work on the RV and refrigerator, you should take the time to read "The 12V Side of Life" parts 1 and 2. Doing so will not make you an electrician but it will give you some basic knowledge of how things work.

Look at the schematic from the link above to see what should be available and what it should read. I don't know what you mean by "active voltages" but you need to see what it is. The 12V is direct current. The power from the mains will be 240V or close to that. You need to learn how to use your meter for the information to have any value to you are us. It should have several voltage scales for alternating current, several more for direct current, and several for ohms. You select the appropriate one for what you are checking. Based on what you have said, I think that you need to get some qualified help.

I do the same as Chad, but today I signed out and back in without any issues. I have referred this thread to our admin but since he works a normal week, we probably won't hear from him until Monday.

Now you need to get your multimeter and see where the voltages are available and where they are not, based on the schematic. Once you know where the voltage is lost, turn off all of the eclectic supplies and then use the ohmmeter side to determine where it is being lost.

This Schematic is all that I found other than operating and installation instructions for that refrigerator. The one that you have is not sold in the USA so I have never seen one like it. I made my career repairing electrical equipment and it has been my experience that when something stops working after a modification to the wiring has been made the problem is usually related to the changes made. Have you tired returning the wiring to what it was before you started?