Kirk W

Welcome to the Escapee forums! As long as an automobile, truck, or RV is legally registered and meets the requirements of the state where it is registered, it is legal to operate on the roads and highways of all of the states. Both Canada and Mexico also honor those registrations. Where do you plan to keep your RV registered? Do you intend to keep your current domicile or move to another state? Have you considered joining the Escapees RV Club to get the support system that they offer to fulltimers?

From Investopedia: In finance and investments, account activity refers to the transactions made by a client in a particular brokerage or bank account. Bill payments, cash withdrawals, and wire transfers are examples of account activities. Notice that nowhere in that definition does it require a physical presence in the bank or financial institution. Some banks only do business online so it is impossible to physically enter the bank. It really isn't difficult. If you read the information, all that really needs to be done is to be sure that all of your banks and financial institutions have your current address and phone number since they will reach out to the customer if an account becomes inactive. The problem you warn of does not exist.

I suggest that you investigate the companies that will move a fifth wheel before you get too far. If you have not done so, visit some large RV dealerships and perhaps an RV show or two in order to get a feel for what RVs are available and what they cost. If you are thinking that this will save you a lot of money, that is not likely to be true and particularly if you pay someone to move the RV any significant distance several times a year. How much RV experience have you had? If the answer is none, then you might be wise to rent one first, just to get some feel for what you are undertaking. As for buying something that is motorized and then towing a car, I don't know what you have been reading, but there are many of us here and literally thousands of RV folks who do that and don't consider it to be a headache. When I first towed with my motorhome the thing that surprised me most was just how easy it was.

If you read what I posted, any activity does that. Even going in to check the balance will do so.

Welcome! Let us know how it works out.

Like many others here, I have more than a little experience with the waste water tanks. RV sites that have water but no sewer connections are quite common and in some cases they save money. One word of caution I give is that if your portable tank is smaller than the holding tank you need to have a portable that has a gage to know it is getting full. The lack of a gage can lead to some very unpleasant experiences.

I hate to tell you, but it doesn't get better as the years go by. I was on duty as a driver in our community today 8 hours, most of the time spent waiting for someone. I am tired like I had actually worked all day.

All financial institutions are regulated by state laws on such issues and exactly how it works varies by state but, in most states it takes at least 3 years and many 3 years of no activity at all for an account to be considered abandoned. When that happens they are also required to make efforts to contact you and once all such items are met, the funds are turned over to a state agency that manages them and holds them indefinitely. In Texas it is the Texas Department of Banking that administers those regulations. This comes from that link: In the event that some funds should be lost in that way, the easiest way to find that money is by visiting the Texas Unclaimed Property website.

Keep in mind that about 80% of the water you use ends up in your waste tanks, if not more. You may want to think about some type of portable waste tank also.

As far as I know, they can't but they can return your money and close your account.

It probably has a 3 pin plug similar to the yellow one posted by Gary. If all that you want to do is to use the lights and perhaps operate the refrigerator, There are adapters that you can use to connect either cord to a typical household outlet but you will not then be able to use the air conditioner or the microwave.

That is what happens if you believe everything that you read on Facebook! The rules apply to all financial institutions of any type that accept deposits. National Credit Union Administration USA PATRIOT Act Section 326

Are you a member of the Escapees RV Club? If so you need to log in and visit the domicile section. If you are not then the application for TX title is available from the state website. You should still contact the TX-DMV to be sure of what you need to do.

Do you remember CC, the retired San Antonio police LT. who used to be on these forums and talked about his Bounder diesel with the garbage truck transmission? He did exactly what you are considering. He always kept a HEPA filter in it and it had a heat pump unit so was used a lot. CC was one of the best home fabricators that I have ever known. He was very active on these forums from about 2000 up to about 2015 when he passed away.

I strongly suggest that if you are domiciled via Escapees in Livingston, you need to contact Polk Co.Asscessor's office before you buy the car. Phone: (936)327-6801 That is where you must register the car and they can/will tell you exactly what you need to do.

You are right. I got the ones we have from Amazon, buy I think that I grabbed the wrong link. I don't have the package but this one looks more like it and it is .39". They are tight but will go. Frienda 40 x 16 Inch Air Conditioner Filter Reusable RV Conditioner Replacement

While I wouldn't think that was the cause, it may be possible, depending upon how the circuit is designed and without seeing more information about the control circuit board than they share it is impossible to be certain. I think that I'd just keep a close eye on things and see what happens.

RV Air Conditioner Filter (2 Pack) 17 * 20 inch,Cut To Fit AC Filter Replacement, RV AC Air Filter

If you are buying from a dealer they should be able to help you get a TX registration. If they won’t do it don’t buy from them.

You didn't say where you are located, but the model that you show is not sold in the US or Canada so I'm guessing that you are in either UK or Australia? In researching, I did locate a copy of the Owner's Manual and also a copy of the Dometic Service manual and you can download a copy of each. I have worked on a lot of Dometic refrigerators over the years, but only US models so my knowledge is pretty limited. I did locate a copy of the schematic on page 19 of the service manual and the same one on page 20 of the owner/installation manual. Since they are the same and it appears that the on/off switch you have and all control functions are located on that one circuit board. All control functions are powered by 12V, direct current so removing that supply would disable all functions of the refrigerator. Starting on page 30 of the service manual there is a process to enter a diagnostic mode and test various components, but I found no way to test the on/off switch. If you have a multimeter you should be able to do that using the ohm scale. Beyond that, all that I can suggest is trying the circuit board as your Dometic tech guy suggested.

Hurricane Jane has not been back since May of 2021. Suzanne is located in TX somewhere.

That means that the model probably is SW10DE. It has two sets of thermostat & ECO, one for 120V and the other for propane operation. (see page 18 of the manual) You are correct in that the 120V heating element is controlled separately, via it's own thermostat and ECO. If you look at the schematic on the left side of page 10 of the manual you will see that it is a very simple circuit, with a black wire bringing in power to the on/off switch, then black to the thermostat & ECO, black to the heating element, and then a white wire for neutral or the return side. To the right of that schematic is the 12V/propane schematic and 12V supply is red wires with a yellow negative or return. Since there is no connection of any kind between the 120V heating and the 12V/propane side, either one should work just fine with the other turned off. The 120V circuit breaker would have no effect at all on the operation on propane so long as you have a good battery to supply 12V for the propane controls. That circuit board not only supplies the spark but it has a flame sensor to shut the propane supply valve that it also controls, if the flame should ever fail. As you can easily see from the two drawings on page 10, the two systems are completely independent of each other. Since you have had two 120V thermostats fail, I strongly suggest that before you do anything else you need to remove 120V power and then using your ohm meter, measure from either side of the heating element to ground (any metal part of the water heater) and also read across the heating element to see what resistance it has. The heating elements can short out or shore to ground (the metal tank) and either one could cause the problems that you have described. If you lift one lead from the heating element and measure through it, the resistance should be 10 ohms, give or take 1 or 2 ohms. From either terminal to the tank of the water heater should read very close to infinity ohms.

If the resistance of the switch should increase that would cause part of the voltage be lost there and so lower the voltage seen by the heating element. Two resistances in series add and with higher total resistance the current flow will decrease. Ohm's law applies here so voltage divided by resistance will give you the amps in the circuit. If voltage drops or resistance increases, either one will cause current flow to decrease. It would help if you would tell us what model Suburban water heater you have as there are differences. Also, is your water heater a propane only model or does it also heat from 120V shore power? What voltages have you read and where did you read them? Here is a link to download a copy of the current Suburban service manual that I believe applies to your water heater. If I'm right the schematic you need is on page 10.

Find more information about: EMERGENCY FUND – grants for Nomads without resources who are in an unexpected emergency. TENT PROGRAM – tents for Nomads with an emergency need for shelter. BYOV – grants for Nomads-in-need to improve their vehicle-homes (BYOV=Bring Your Own Vehicle). VEHICLE GRANTS – homes on wheels – currently suspended until covered by insurance. ONLINE BULLETIN BOARD – mobile-community connections – post what you have to offer, post what you need. RUBBER TRAMP RENDEZVOUS – RTR & Women’s RTR – Nomads gather in January in the desert southwest. IN-PERSON CARAVANS – Nomads share a two-week camp locations to find and build community. VIRTUAL CARAVANS – a welcoming community that meets on Zoom to discuss the nomadic lifestyle. FACEBOOK COMMUNITY – talk about all things nomadic, find campmates, make plans for the RTRs. Tel: 775.764.8115, www.homesonwheelsalliance.org, is a 501(c)3 charitable organization registered with the Nevada Secretary of State, pursuant to Title NRA 82A.200. Its purpose is to assist seniors and the working poor with unconventional housing as shelter. Contributions may be tax deductible pursuant to provisions of Sec. 170(c) of the Internal Revenue Code of 1986, 26 U.S.C.§170(c).

Have you taken any voltage of resistance readings with your meter? It is actually quite easy to check a switch with an ohm meter. Does yours look like the one in this picture?