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About mptjelgin

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 05/18/1960

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  • Location
    Medina, Texas and on the road.
  • Interests
    Birding, Photography, Hiking, Disc Golf

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  1. RV heating concept

    You are using "radiate" as a generic term to mean distribution. What the OP is specifically describing is radiant heat, which is directly heating an object in the environment without heating the air in between. You may (or may not) find the following discussion useful: https://www.herschel-infrared.com/how-it-works/radiant-versus-convection-heat/
  2. RV heating concept

    With the Aqua-Hot system hot water is circulated (not radiated) to heat exchangers located in the RV. This is not Radiant Heating as described by the OP.
  3. Engine oil questions?

    A decent explanation here: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engine-oils-
  4. Cold Weather Tire Inflation/Pressure

    My understanding is that yes, you do air up to 115 psi if that is what is required by weight. The tires will heat up as you drive and as the day warms, but those pressure increases are expected and accounted for. Driving with low tire pressure is the problem to avoid, not the other way around. If I know that I aired up when it was very cold, and the weather warms considerably in subsequent days I'll eventually let some air out on a subsequent morning. But if the temps continue to be up and down I'll leave the "cold" pressure alone until the temperatures change for a longer period of time. That is to say that I don't worry about letting out a few psi one morning, only to have to replace it the next.
  5. Water Pump Issues or Leak?

    Some water pumps can have a tiny amount of water flowing back through their check valve which will cause exactly what you are seeing. I've even suspected the pump running a bit when the water heater shuts off and the water cools a bit. If you haven't found any leaks and the running is as intermittent as you've noted, I wouldn't worry about it. A solution would be to install a small accumulator tank which will hold a volume of water at a near-constant pressure, and as a side benefit even out the pulsating flow. But if you only us your pump rarely I'd be willing to live with what you've got.
  6. It appears that they have a robust and well-designed system that is working well for them. But I often see confusion with understanding the concept of amps vs. amp-hours and that confusion is present in the article. If you think that is "picking apart the details" than so be it. I believe understanding and using those terms correctly is critical to monitoring usage and understanding the overall system.
  7. Easy solar charge controller question

    You're right. I went back and edited my last post. I didn't realize that it was a single-stage controller.
  8. Easy solar charge controller question

    That is correct. It will charge to higher voltages when the batteries are cold, and lower when the batteries are hot. But expect to see it charging at 14.4 (ish) volts for several hours (assuming the panels can get it there) before dropping down to float voltage. ON EDIT - I guess not! As Yarome pointed out this is not a multi-stage controller, so it will just cut off upon reaching the set voltage. So it may not ever get your batteries to a fully charges state, but should be fine for 3-4 days. If you plan to stay with solar for longer periods of time you may want to consider a multi-stage controller.
  9. Easy solar charge controller question

    Two 100 watt panels will supply around 15 amps on a good sunny day, so this is well beyond a "maintainer". To answer the OP question, most "good quality" solar chargers have at least three stages. The bulk charging stage will generally put as much current as possible into the batteries until they reach 14.4 volts. Then it changes to the absorption stage, where it holds the 14.4 volts for a period of time. And finally it will drop to the float stage which is 13.8 volts for a typical flooded acid battery. Note that these voltages may be higher or lower based on the temperature of the battery. Good solar controllers will have a temperature probe that attaches to the batteries as part of the system. And some controllers have a forth stage which will take the voltage even lower if the battery has been at 13.8 volts for a long period of time. I looked up the manual for your controller and it looks like the float voltage can be adjusted from 12.8 to 15.0 volts, with the default at 13.7 volts. 13.7 volts is just fine, though some folks prefer it a bit higher to keep their batteries "up" a bit more. And I see where your unit does offer an optional temperature probe to provide compensation so I would get that as well.
  10. Their confusing (and often incorrect) use of the terms amps, amps per hour, etc, is bothersome. It would be nice if they were correctly using the concept of amps vs amp-hours and completely dropped the term "amps per hour". For instance: We were getting in between 16 and 17 amps per hour (should be amps) at the peak time of the day around noon. and... So, let's say we get an average of 14 amps of solar for five hours a day - that's 70 amps (should be amp-hours) that our batteries are re-charged each day under perfect conditions .... this time of year at this location. We probably get in another 10 - 20 amps (should be amp-hours) total in the morning and late afternoon. So, as long as we don't use anymore than 80 - 90 amps (should be amp-hours) per day, our batteries should get back to full charge by just using our solar.
  11. Grey water tank

    No reason at all not to dump gray water into the toilet. I think that folks sometimes get concerned about somehow connecting the two tanks together and "contaminating" the gray water tank with black water, but what you've described is perfectly ok!
  12. Gas or Diesel

    In the Ford SuperDuty series the diesel engine is a $8995 option.
  13. Gas or Diesel

    I pull a heavier trailer than that with a Ford F-350 V-10 and have for 8 years full-timing. But 2010 was the last year that Ford put the V-10 into a "normal" pick-up truck. Their big gasoline engine after 2010 has been the 6.2 liter V-8 which seems to be a fine engine as well. Many folks seem to prefer the diesel trucks and they certainly have more "grunt". But as you note you pay for the both up front and in maintenance costs. As far as fuel costs go they do get better mileage than the gasoline motors and that will make up for much of the difference in fuel price that you've noted.
  14. Solar panel question

    There is likely a decal on the back of the panel with the manufacturers name, model number, and perhaps some amperage and voltage information. In that size range I would guess it to be around 100 watts. I had a couple of Kyocera panels that were 5' by 2' that were 130 watt panels, so that should be in the ballpark.
  15. Death while full timing

    Thank you for that important information. My family member signed up specifically because of their wish to not burden others with this responsibility. I am certain that they are not aware of this caveat.