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About mptjelgin

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Medina, Texas and on the road.
  • Interests
    Birding, Photography, Hiking, Disc Golf

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  1. RV Lots The Original SKP Ranch

    The Carlsbad KOA is well north of Carlbad, and is only about 6 miles from The Ranch.
  2. Park Models

    In the title of the thread and again in the first post you asked about Park Models. Park Models are specialty RV's, typically 8' - 13' wide, with floor area not exceeding 400 square feet. A multi-section modular home is not a Park Model. It may be located in a park, but if you refer to them as Park Models in discussion with lenders, insurance companies, or the VA you will introduce confusion.
  3. Park Models

    It depends. Many park models are never attached to concrete or any other permanent foundation. In Texas they are titled as mobile homes (essentially vehicles) unless they are permanently attached to a foundation. We own a lot in a "resort" than has a number of park model homes. Many have had their wheels and axles removed, are on concrete block foundations, are tied down and underpinned, but are still considered (titled and taxed) mobile homes. Others have had rooms added on with foundation slabs and have become permanently built in, and those are treated as real property. I don't know if other states follow the same practice.
  4. Another Texas Co-op?

    Places like this exist in the Hill Country, but are not SKP Co-ops. We have a lot at Rocky Point Retreat near Medina, Texas (south of Kerrville). It is a beautiful, quiet spot. Not as developed as the SKP Co-ops and generally no organized activities, but it suits us perfectly. Some folks are like us, still on the road 10 - 11+ months each year, but many are now full-time on the property in either their RV or in a Park Model. We got our place mostly as an "in the future" spot, but enjoy stopping in there briefly once or twice each year if we're in the neighborhood. http://rockypointrvretreat.com/about-us/
  5. Water Valve Help

    Can you take another picture with the blue hose removed? On our trailer there is a quick-connect (a collar that slides back) that allows the coiled blue hose to be removed and stored. We only hook it up if we want to use the outdoor shower. With the hose out of the way the valving and decals will be a bit easier to see.
  6. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    Agreed! There is so much calcium in some places that (unless you are running a water softener) you are going to get precipitate in your water heater pretty quickly. In some areas of Central Texas even a few melted ice cubes will leave calcium residue in a glass. It is the reason that I don't mind opening up my water heater once a year to change the anode rod. Allows me to give it a thorough rinse and get all of the "junk" out. OLETIMER - From Lou's post near the top: 1) Drain your water hose, i.e. make it full of air. Connect it between the shore water spigot and the RV and turn on the water. Go inside the RV and turn on a HOT water spigot. The air in the hose will be drawn into the water heater tank and replenish the air pocket. Sputtering at the hot water spigot while you are doing this confirms the air pocket has been restored and the excess air is coming out of the spigot. This works very well, and it simple to do. The air pocket in a hot water heater is absorbed over time. Do the empty hose thing a couple of times, until you get the sputtering at a hot water faucet. It costs nothing and adds a useful volume for expansion. I haven't added an accumulator but now make certain to "bubble" air into my water heater occasionally. It works!
  7. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    Good practice and one that we also follow. "Could", but highly unlikely as the pressure relief valves in water heaters are set for around 150 psi. Weeping valves are usually caused by over-pressure in tanks because of a lack of expansion space either in the tank, in an accumulator, or in the plumbing itself.
  8. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    As I said earlier, I prefer the aluminum tanked Atwood as it is one less thing to deal with. But that is seldom a choice as manufacturers tend to utilize one brand or the other and you get what you get! The weeping valve isn't much of an issue for us either, with it occurring maybe 3 -4 times in the past 20 years. My point was that aluminum vs. steel tanks has nothing to do with weeping pressure valves. We use a water pressure regulator if that is what you are referring to. Why?
  9. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    Our previous trailer had an Atwood water heater, which I did prefer as it eliminated the anode rod. It does not, however, eliminate the occasional weeping pressure valve or need to maintain the air space in the tank. An aluminum tank only eliminates the anode rod.
  10. Not sure where you are getting that. The current limit on contributions to a Roth IRA are $5500 per year, unless you are 50 or over in which case the limit is $6500. This limit is specifically for contributions directly into a Roth. As you've discovered there is no limit on a rollover, as long as you can handle the taxes.
  11. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    The downside of an aluminum anode rod is that they offer less protection than magnesium. Suburban recommends them only when the magnesium rods are being consumed in less than one year, which would indicate particularly aggressive corrosion. So there is a trade-off. Less cast-off, but less protection of the tank as well. I change my magnesium anode rod every year and thoroughly flush my water heater at that time with a flushing "wand". I am amazed at the amount of junk that gets flushed out, but if I do it thoroughly I don't have any issues with flakes or particles clogging my fixtures.
  12. Charger Charge Rate Settings

    A maximum charge rate of C/5 is often recommended for flooded lead acid batteries. That would give you 45 amps as a max charge rate. You will find that the charge will begin to taper off pretty quickly at that rate, as it won't take long to climb to the maximum bulk rate voltage. I have 4 T-105 batteries and my Magnum 2012 is set for a 100 amp max. I seldom see it hit over about 85 amps, and it doesn't stay there for long. But I don't let my batteries get deeply discharged and I'm sure that plays a role. I wouldn't hesitate to set your charge rate at 40 or 50 amps.
  13. Break away switch

    Our cable got caught on the hitch in a sharp gas station turn. I took me a minute to figure out what was going on!! Brakes worked great...
  14. The Fluidmaster Better Than Wax seal is intended for residential toilets. I'm not certain, but the donut seal that I've used on my Thetford toilets seems to be a different (smaller) diameter. I would stay with the Thetford gasket as they are cheap, fit the stock flange, and work very well.
  15. LED lights... not there yet

    I have replaced all of the bi-pin halogen bulbs in our trailer with side-mount G4 Led bulbs. My halogen fixtures are small puck-type fixtures and the LED replacements fit fine. I have found that they are not nearly as dimmable as the original halogens, perhaps because the bulbs I buy have a constant current circuit that is rated for 10V - 30V and within that voltage range they are supposed to be constant. If being able to dim the lights is critical you may want to do some research on which (if any) LED lights have a similar range as the halogens. I see where some similar to mine are rated as dimmable with a PWM (pulse width modulator) dimmer. Pretty sure the dimmer switches in my trailer are simple rheostats so perhaps that is why mine won't dim much.