Kahoona

Yes it is level and works on gas. Interesting. 1he 1350 has soft touch buttons and goes straight to auto when turned on. In the end I may wind up installing a switch to choose elect or gas like yours.

Hi. Sorry to be away for a while but we were in Key West for a festival and I didn't have time or tools to do much. Then I caught a foul nasty cold! Today I got back at it in spite of the cold. I went around the board checking every connection coming off of it to be sure that they went to the right place and that they worked. I also tested the Thermostat just to be sure. All were provably good except for the J3 which goes inside the back of the fridge and powers the fans and 2 heating coils. The fans work. The others could be the door heaters. They did work. . The other is J 12 which is the ground for a Lamp. When J12 is disconnected the light stays on. It seems like there are several things on the same circuit, each with it's own ground. Sloppy engineering but not the problem. I also had the DW stay inside and worked the controls while I checked the wires where they entered the romex connectors. They did work properly. The pins and sockets all looked good on the connectors also. In the end I gave in and swapped out the lower board for a new one I had. There is no change. It did not fix it. Tomorrow I will call Dinosaur and Dometic. Other than that I don't know what to try. I am currently running it on electric when needed by jumping the heaters directly to the AC inputs but that won't work when I am not in 86f weather because the fridge will freeze. Interestingly I should mention that that fridge used to work terribly. Never got below 38 and was often in the upper 40's in the day. Opening the door caused a rise of 2-3 degrees which took hours to come back. Since I have run it for 2 weeks straight it has gradually improves to where it is 34 at night and it can keep Ice cream frozen. It recovers quickly when opened. It was left unused for years.

That is so true! I have been unable to find one myself. I have replaced the board three times so either the board id not the problem or something blows up the boards. I would love that. Thanks. PS No hurry I am in Key west for fantasy Fest till Monday and won't get much done anyway. 😀

Working on it between activities here in Key West. Also having to fix basement door that opens by itself and AC that sounds like a jackhammer so not much progress. Board is 2 sided AC Neutrals both in and out are connected at J6&J7. The actual connection is cone in the relay center left. The actual connection seems to be initiated by connector 4 and three in the 4 wire molex. I can't trace how the signal gets from the 6 wire harness to the 4 wire one to actuate though. I would need to connect AC and DC to it to find out more and I don't have the power supplies here to do it safely. The most recent board that I remived had evidence of heating on the C5 capacitor but the other old ones have no visual evidence of a any blown components.

Fact of the matter is that they cut or removed the discount on campgrounds and most other things already by privatizing everything. For a couple of years now we haven't got the half price discount because everything is private now. Discount 0 to 10% only and services cut way down. The parks are a federal program that should be paid for with our taxes. We also paid for the "old folks card". Where it she money going?

1-Yes. It is hard to do because the uppre board and switch board seem to be coated with something that makes contact difficult but I got over 12v on every contact and continuity checks on the control buttons. 2-"loser board" eigh!" Typed what I was thinking. :D. Heating element tests at proper resistance and is at this moment powering the fridge having been jumped directly from the input wires to J5 and J6. This demonstrates that the hearer is good and the power is good. 120v at the outlets. 3- Checked all 3 fuses, Yes 120, even tried an extention cord to the house to power at J5&6. John- ROFL I hear you! I already got the manual and have literally worn the printed copy out! I had the fridge out to fix the badly done install that blew heat up on top and I did all of the maintenance, even the baffle replacement, flue clean, all tests, remaking the enclosure, taping seams and more and it still can't run right or make ice cream hard! Shoulda kept the old gasses class A with the 2 door Dometic. Excuse the rant but I want you to know I am not just saying yes to every question. I have traced the wires to every peripheral device to see if wires are crossed of something is shorted. I will start on tracing the AC through the lower board if I can like Kirk was saying. The plumbing sucks but I think it works as well as any 1350 so somewhere there is a cracked wire or bad module that is getting in the way. I'll keep you posted. Did I mention that this is a 2008 with 23k on it so there have been all sorts of trouble with the rubber bits. I don't know if sitting for years hurts dometics either.

Thanks for the reply. I have not tried jumping the fuse yet so I will. Thanks. I have tried the rest though. Yes. I agree that 3 bad boards would be unlikely but 2 licensed experienced mobile techs said that that had to be the problem so I kept trying. One of the 3 was used too so it could have been bad for all I know. I agree about tracing the 120v through the board which I thought might be beyond my ability. I have repopulated and overhauled 70's audio boards but I had diagrams and reading lists. Looks like I will do just that. Since I have power to the fuse I can start there. I have 2 used boards I can bench and work with safely here in the campground. I do have the manual which I printed and have nearly worn out :D. I have done every test in the manual twice to be sure. I am using Diagram RN1350M since it has the same components as mine. mine id an Auto Lock but has had the lock disabled and the wires taped off and stuffed inside. When the fridge is turned on the lock still makes a clank. Any way that the defeated lock could affect the element? Believe it or not I do have another new board but I am reluctant to risk it in case something in the system breaks it. We were traveling from The Keys to New Jersey and then the outer banks buying 20 lbs of dry ice per day while trying to get a board to arrive at one of our stops on the day it was promised. or a tech who could fix it. I wound up with extras. Once I replaced the igniter the LP gas worked and things got easier. LOL RV's are fun. Full timing is going to be even funner! Thanks.

I am so sorry! I thought than nobody replied because Outlook put you in the Spam folder. They do it to all of the most important messages so I should have looked. Probably too late now. Checked the element resistance with an ohmmeter. Checked everything else suggested and all is working except the AC mode. I did something I read about and fed the heater directly bypassing the board and it worked (at least as well gas does anyway) so I know it is capable of functioning. I am frustrated because everything points to the board but here I sit with three boards that I replaced and every time I still have the problem. I hate to go get a fourth $300 board. I seem to have few options.

We have a Dometic RM1350 4 door fridge. It won't run on AC. Goes right to gas. I have the shop manual and have run some troubleshooting. I have verified that we have : DC power to lower board. Proper operation of upper boards and connection back to lower board. AC to loser board. working heating elements The AC sensing circuit is not turning the power on when Auto is selected. It may not be sensing AC incoming or it is not switching it on. On switch causes it to start but it will only start in gas. It cannot be set to auto, it momentarily blinks the indicator for auto then goes straight to gas. The upper and lower boards have been replaced as well as the on/off board. Anybody else run into this?