JUSTANOLDERGUY

Just want to thank you all for responding. Yes only new units - I am an engineer by trade and I assure you you do not want an older unit with a lot of miles. Not even the best units are designed for that sort of stress. (true I think they are built better). I agree on the ultralights - you cut weight somewhere. I think what I was really fishing for was input so that I could sort of get an idea of who may have better materials, processes, and quality control without having to tour the factories or pull a lot of information and comb through it. Often times the person using the product is a better judge than anything else that you can use to measure quality. Again I thank you all so much!!!!

Here is the best I an do for you. Look up j2807 standards. Really read how they came about and what they are supposed to do. Go a little farther and see what it really did - not a lot - to solve the load and towing issue. As a matter of fact I will suggest that any of you who are using the manufacturers calculations read about j2807 standards, why they came about, and how even then the automotive industry still fails in this regard.

Been in power transmission for about 40 years +/- . I try to tell folks all the time that what the manufacturers say is not really based on any real measurements or standards. If you want a real eye opener look up J2807 STANDARDS. When you look it up make sure you go far enough indepth to realize they don't really help either. my rule of thumb must have a min. v8 (5L) up to 6.2L (step it up as load steps up) 1/2 ton truck = 5000 - 6000 lbs (max) prefer not to push that 3/4 ton truck = 6000 - 8000 lbs (max) 1 ton = 8,000 - 10,000 lbs (max) People don't realize it takes a lot of horsepower to start off moving and some extra weight to stop (even with trailer brakes). To keep a constant speed requires some power too. If you ware steadily going up and down on the rpms when pulling hills you are under powered. God's Speed

Rollindowntheroad - I am either a fountain of knowledge or a cesspool of ignorance. It just depends on how you look at it. None of us mean to be discouraging but at my age and in my generation we just say what we know and not what we wish. We all want you to enjoy being an Rver but doing that means getting somethings right on the front end. I grew up on a farm by age 12 I could drive a bean truck from the delta to Channel street in Memphis, TN. We know what trucks will do. It's like the Class C mercedes sprinter that is pushing 186 horsepower and the manufacturer wants us to believe it is a great vehicle (24 footer). No thanks my 2108 Sling shot has 175 hp. The truck you describe is real close to what I drive now and at 1800 lbs in the bed you cannot hit a bump or shocks bottom out. Yes it is accurate but not usable as far as payload. The best way to do this if you want to join the tremendous fun of traveling and being an Rver is to figure out what you want to pull and then buy your truck accordingly. I am downsizing to a 20 - 24 footer. Weight range will be 5500 - 7000 lbs. The minimum set up that I am considering is F250 (hate to admit been looking at some Rams too.) The reason is actual reality of hooking up something that heavy to a truck and starting to pull it. Once the load is rolling a volks wagon will pull it (on flat ground). But highways are not flat. In my case I have to make frequent stops. Wind is often blowing in your face. You must have enough weight to stop (even with trailer brakes). The ratings that you are looking at are max values. You want a buffer on those quantities and most importantly someday we want to meet you on the road some day and say hi. We want you to be safe and happy. Not discouraged.

I have owned Ford trucks since 1978. Only thing I drive. Again i don't care what Ford says the eco boost dual turbo v6 is great if you are using the truck as a nice ride around. (I am in sales) I have driven the top of the line ecoboost. This engine loves flat road - hills will suck the fuel. Try driving unloaded from Mississippi to Arizona and you will see what I mean. Straight out hwy 40. Drive it to KY and drive around the hills. Now put a 6 wheel Max on a 6 ft trailer no other gear you will note that the gas mileage drops. Now picture hooking it to what you want to pull. This engine is designed to be used in a car not a truck. Yes it will tow what Ford says but take it from a Ford guy. Get a v8 around 4-6k lbs F150. Next up F250, F350 will pull about anything you need. You do not want to get in the mountains with an udersized power plant. First step is get the truck you need to pull it. I am looking to downsize myself and I am telling you at minimum stay with a v8. My wifes Rav4 adventure says it will tow 3500 lbs, but I do not believe that either.

We own a 34 ft class a. I want to go to a towable and hopefully something smaller. (20 ft or so) We have done some travel in the past few years, but I suffered a severe medical set back that lasted about 7 years. (Today I am about 95% of where I should be God is good). Anyway not new to rving, but would be new to travel trailer rving. I need some advice and input please. We have found several that would suit our needs but I am worried about some of the reviews I have seen. Can anyone out there enlighten me on what brands ma be better than others? I have researched until I am tired and just want some honest opinions. Our class a has had some issues but nothing like I have read on travel trailers. My first job was driving a truck so I really don't need much input on trucks.

Wife and I are a few years from full time but I have owned several eco boost ford trucks. What I do not like about them is simple if you are pulling anything the mpg is horrible. Also they lack the power of a v8. I got rid of the last one because a 6 ft atv trailer and small atv were just too much for it even with the dual turbos.