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About Moresmoke

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  1. I agree with Jack that the interior work is the hardest part. Those look like standard RV style windows, probably just clamped to the wall by the trim ring and sealed with butyl tape. When I did the windows in my Volvo, I made an interior filler ring out of wood and MDF, glued it to the inside of the wall with windshield urethane, and glued the window to the out side with the same. I ended up making new interior wall panels due to all the holes that were left when I took out the cabinets and such. Cutting the holes in the wall was a bit nerve wracking, just making sure it was right on the first try. I used a HF air nibbler to cut the wall out.
  2. For whatever they are worth, aftermarket shifters are widely available on the web. Also, I think the dealer was stretching it with the reprogramming. I changed up to the premium from the basic. I bought a used premium shifter, installed it and it worked just like the previous one. Had to get the programming done for the premium functions. But I don’t think it’s necessary if you are replacing with the same.
  3. Carry a 2 dr Wrangler or Nissan Rogue, but I don’t have room for the bike rack with the Rogue. Pulling a bumper hitch TT.
  4. The Jackalopee is primarily just a pass through device. If you are connecting to your trucks original trailer wiring, it should already have overload protection. The only inputs that you would need to provide a fuse/breaker for is the 12v switched or 12v direct connectors in the upper left corner.
  5. A couple years ago I was at a county fair, and a carnie came over to ask me what that rigging was on the front of my pickup. Yup, plow gear... He wasn’t a local!
  6. Moresmoke

    brake light switch

    I can’t comment on the Direct Link specifically as I have never worked with them. But, all the brake controllers I have been around use the brake light connection for both a brake signal and to turn the brake lights on when the slide bar used. When I set mine up the best I could do was to connect to the Jackalopee so the trailer lights come on with the slide bar.
  7. Bigger learning curve there than you might think!
  8. Don’t know the year of your truck, but the computers are typically wired separate from the disconnect switch. These separate feeds are the most likely to drain your battery. The big cables on the disconnect are more likely to burn the truck to the ground than cause a discharge.
  9. What’s old is new again. Went through this back in the early ‘90s with the family fleet. We were still running direct drive transmissions because you could net a bit more fuel economy. But driveshaft problems started showing up with faster rear ratios. Finally gave In and went to overdrives, which also had the benefit of slowing down reverse.
  10. 9-9.5 with a D11 pulling a lightweight TT and carrying a car or Jeep. Drops to 6-6.5 when pulling my toyhauler. But that’s like 60000 lb.
  11. Wet sand down to 5000 grit, then polishing compound. Yes they will continue to yellow. I’ve tried aftermarket lights and they yellowed too.
  12. One bad battery will take down the others. If they all have been drawn down repeatedly to a level where they won’t start the truck, their performance has been reduced. 2 good batteries should be able to fire off that engine in the summer. A couple weeks ago, the local Volvo dealer had a pallet of batteries for $74.95 ea.
  13. Make sure the clevis pin in the slack adjuster moves freely. If it is tight, it will keep the brake from releasing like it should.
  14. Don’t forget the 40mph cross wind!
  15. Probably politics. As semi trailers grew from 40’ to 45’ s even give then 48’ and 53’, the industry lobbied for longer limits. Most places straight truck and long trailer combos are not that common so there hasn’t been any pressure for change. How many folks would even think about their length when shopping for a 5er to pull behind their CCLB? Some of you have HDTs that are shorter than my F350.
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