Moresmoke

If you are designing and want to avoid the LP system totally, you could also use a couple of residential kick space heaters. We have a couple in our S&B kitchen as there was no place to put baseboard heaters. Other than the occasional cleaning, they run and work.

Also, the suspension makes a big difference on uneven terrain. My opinion, and many will disagree, the KW 8 bag suspension is not that great. The Volvo/Hendrickson Z bar air ride is actually half decent at articulation. The gold standard in off road performance is a walking beam/ Mack camelback design, but they come at a cost of ride quality. Neway used to build an air ride that could keep up with a walking beam, but it was heavy and maintenance intensive.

Some of the 6x2s will automatically bias the weight on the axles when wheel slip is detected. I believe the Volvo suspension will go as high as 80% on the powered axle.

Do you have any blank spaces in the dash cluster? Might be able to add the factory gauges. Another option would be a Scan Gauge whatever they call the heavy duty version. I know for certain that engine has a manifold pressure sensor, and would think it has exhaust temp also as it is an EGR engine.

The factory batteries made it 6 years in mine, but the truck had been sitting for 2 when I bought it. Currently at 5 on the replacements. I do have a NOCO maintainer installed. Don’t generally use it in the summer but keep the maintainer plugged in for the 8 month off season.

Might want to check if you have power and ground at the valve before you get too dirty.

The two messages are related. You can plug your fault code into Google and get a fairly decent description. The Volvo link is a telematics module. Most likely not needed for HDT use. You will likely need programming done by a dealer to remove it.

Biggest consideration is how are you going to get the Harley up there? I carry a bike and Jeep. I run the bike up the ramps onto the bed, but it is a little bit interesting. And that is a small adventure bike, not a big cruiser. Other than the weird looks in the cg, no problems whatsoever pulling a TT.

WIX says 24311 & 24312, the second being your sleeper filter.

I go back and forth between TSD card and Mudflap app. TSD is usually a few cents cheaper at overlap stations, but they don’t have all the same coverage. Mudflap is free use the app on your phone, links to a credit card, no application process. I check both and pick whatever makes the most sense for price and location.

My Mom liked to recount the story from one of her trips to visit Dad when they were courting. Mom had hitched a ride from University with one of my Grandfather’s drivers, in a GMC cracker box. Along the way the throttle return spring gave up. Mom being a resourceful farm girl, grabbed a piece of yarn from her knitting project, tied it to the accelerator pedal and played the part of the spring for the rest of the trip.

Already rising here. But then as far as freight rates have fallen into the dumpster I question just how high diesel will go.

The pipe tee will work. The key to doing it is to have the two lines from the tanks the same length and as close to the same runs as possible. Had an old Freightliner that ran like that for years. That had low flow return so just sent the return to one tank.

My typical tool kit includes 12 pt regular depth chrome sockets for hand use and 6 pt deep impact sockets. That combination gets most done what i need.

Start truck, let air pressure build up. Turn truck off, key back on but do not start. Push and hold the brake pedal applying 80 psi on the application pressure gauge. After 30 seconds, the tank air pressure should not drop noticeably from the initial drop when you pushed the brake pedal. Also, any truck that was factory built as a tractor since the early ‘90s had a brake proportioning valve. This valve reduced the pressure to the rear wheels to help reduce the chance of skidding when bobtail. The red knob is the trigger for the proportioning valve.