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About TexasJoePro

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  • Birthday August 31

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  1. I had the exact same problem . . . twice! Thor rep told me it was likely the Printed Circuit Board (or PCB). Said he could send me a new one and I could replace it myself. I told him I thought it was probably above my skill level and he assured me it was not and I could do it. The part arrived so I called him on speaker phone and he walked me thru the R&R. MUCH easier than I thought it would be. Fixed the problem for about a week or two until the same thing happened again. I called back and the Thor Customer service rep referred me to MaxxFan (or whatever the parent company is - I dont recall) customer service. He confirmed that they have gotten a bunch of bad PCBs on the 4401Ks and said he would send me a second one at no charge. I got it a few days later, swapped it out in 5 minutes, and it has worked fine for 4 months now. YMMV, but it worked for me, and just might for you too!
  2. Kirk & SWarton - My length is 25 foot (bumper to bumper) on the RV. Sounds like the track bar will probably give me the best bang-for-the-buck, so I will look into that first. **I can only wish budget were no issue!** Also, I failed to mention that I flat tow, via a blue ox towbar, a Nissan Frontier pickup with a camper shell (my garage!) which probably contributes to making the shorter rig "feel" longer on the road. I have weighed both the RV and the truck spearately, so i am confident I am within both GVWR and "Train Weight," but it does add another 20 feet of "wind catching mass" when towing, which I imagine doesn't help the situation.
  3. SWarton - Is a track bar different from a sway bar or are they the same thing? Sorry if its a dumb question, but I'm just not familiar. Thanks
  4. Looking for some first-hand experience/technical advice on improving drivability on my new motor home. We have a brand new, 2018 Thor Four Winds 24F, Class C motor home (25 foot length) on a 2017 Ford e350 chassis that still has paper tags! (I just sold an older 38' diesel pusher and purchased this unit new within the past month.) The old DP had me spoiled on how it handled on the interstate - no 18 wheeler push-pull when they blow past and very little wind issues of any kind. Now I fully understand the e350 chassis will never match the DP with its air ride and massive weight differential and spartan chassis, but I would like to see what steps I can take to improve the ride stability, drivability and driver effort requirement on the e350 with a shorter rv. I've put about 1500 or so miles on the new unit and the 18 wheeler blow-by is rather intense! I have done some research (googling and in other groups) and here's what I've come up with: 1. Check 4-corner weight and rebalance after loading up 2. Get a "road loaded" front end alignment after rebalancing 3. Consider installing aftermarket front and rear sway bars. Anyone have any experience with any/some/all of the above or have other suggestions? I think the first two items - rebalancing and re-aligning make sense, but I'm not very familiar with sway bars. Any input/advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks! TJP
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