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J-T

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Everything posted by J-T

  1. Horst Miracle Probes

    I'm trying my best not to ....my guess is it will be 40% new.
  2. Jack Blocks

    There's a picture at the top/start of this thread. The top is welded but the bottom comes off for nesting. Edit: I'll look for or take some more pictures
  3. Horst Miracle Probes

    iSeres by Techedge is an alternative to Horst and SeeLevel https://tankedge.com/products.html We needed a system that would monitor 2 (120g)water, 1(120g)black, 1(120g) grey and a 1 (29g) propane tank. The iSeris was the only system that would do it. The new tanks in our trailer are made with 3/8" HDPE. The Moda technology that both iSeres (analog) and SeeLevel (digital) use does not work through 3/8" plastic. iSeres make PVC internal sensors for use with plastic tanks that are over 1/4" thick.
  4. Toy Hauler Ramp

    If the build of the door checks or is reinforced the chain and eye bolt idea that dennisvr uses is the best. Cable may stretch allowing the the door to bounce. If the strength of the door is a concern expand on dennisvr idea and use 2 eyebolts and 2 chains on each side to reduce the point loads. One of the chains on each side will need a turnbuckle. A high tech solution is 1/8" Amsteel rope. It is good for +/-2500lbs and has less stretch than cable.
  5. Electronic systems, cheaper quality along with fewer people with hands on skills will sustain the new market.
  6. Toy Hauler Ramp

    Each door is built differently. When we looked at used toy haulers on some the perimeter frame on the doors had twisted where the cable attached breaking the sealant on the outside. We didn't look long at Toy Haulers so I never found out if these doors were screwed and glued or welded. Some of the alum is .040" which is hard to make any connection to.
  7. Toy Hauler Ramp

    I agree. A door that carries a 2500lbs vehicle should carry 1250lbs at the center of the span. Wood blocks or slide stabilizer under the outside edge will work https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Stromberg-Carlson-Trailer-Jack-JB-20.aspx Do you have a link to the kit or the part number? I'd like to see what it entails.
  8. The only way to get at the wiring for the slide switches (to install relays) in out trailer was to pull the Norcold N821 fridge out. Now that it is out I'm thinking of upgrading the cooling unit. It looks like there is more than one company building upgraded cooling units. Does anyone have experience with one or the other? P.S We dry camp, use a ARP and the DW says we don't need a different fridge. Thank you JT
  9. Using Dielectric Grease

    I started using it to prevent corrosion/rust after drilling through a painted metal. My preference for T-gei is that it is a single application even if the fasteners have been removed several times it stays on. It stands up to heat and does not contain water like grease does. Any type (ferrous and non ferrous) faster are easy to remove after 5-10 years. I remember a job that required thousands stainless (3 days time) 3/8" bolts with nyloc nuts...We started using an impact but the extra speed caused nut galled to the bolt.....Tgel came to rescue....years later we did a re&re and removed the bolts easily. It also work great on the screws in cord ends.
  10. Using Dielectric Grease

    I have 2-3 tubes of dielectric grease but I rarely use it. My go to is Tef-Gel. used it on DC electrical and fasteners for 20 years. Found the TG01 syringes are the easiest to use. A tiny amount is needed on No.6 - No.10 electrical panel screws....a dab the size of this...o . It does not conduct electricity. http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_price I also use Deoxit grease on electronics and LED wring that has low amperage . Deoxit conducts electricity. http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2852/.f
  11. Fish Plates (DollyTrolly?)

    The post(s) don't need to be very long (12" -18") but it needs to be 1 1/2" or 2"sch 40 alum pipe and fixed firmly or lateral (scenario that GeorgiaHybird mentions) failure will occur. Connecting the post together in a H format will also add lateral support. Holes can be drilled through the web of the ramp at both ends so the cable passed through and crimped in place or shackles may fit.
  12. Fish Plates (DollyTrolly?)

    How about an inverted king post. The post could be a slipped into a pipe socket and once folded out the cable would hold the pipe/post in place.
  13. Good or Bad Idea?

    Allot depends on the location of the intake vent and wind direction. There won't be a fireball but it is possible to have heater misfire over and over causing the heater to cycling. Not being in the trailer while it is going down the road there is no way of knowing if this is happening so we leave the heater and HW tank off when on the road.
  14. What future for our national parks?

    I think Fulltimewanbe is pointing out is the waste higher up in the system which leaves little for the people on the ground. $100,000 stair projects have become normal. http://www.cnn.com/2017/07/20/americas/man-steps-trouble-trnd/index.html
  15. If a 2nd loop is added there will be a stagnation issue but stagnation can be dealt with if the heating loop is inline with a sink or shower. This will provided a secondary heat source but when the extra heat is not need there will be heat loss from longer piping.....six of one...half of another. The link below is a temperature controlled HW tank re-circ system. I chose not to use the HW tank for heat because my $0.02 thinks the HW tank is less efficient than the furnace. i uses a similar system to save water using a timer instead of a temp. controller. http://roadtreklife.blogspot.ca/2016/03/rv-hot-water-recirculation-system.html For secondary heat I added a Propex 2800 and I'm considering replacing the electric fireplace with a Rinnai direct vent wall heater. https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Propex_HS2800_Heating_Unit_p/hs2800.htm https://www.rinnai.us/gas-home-heating/direct-vent-furnaces The Propex is is ducted into the trailer (shoulder season heat) as well as (with 4" slide gates) a boot/glove drying locker that is vented (reduce condensation) outside. By removing a couple of clamps it can be swapped from the drying locker to heating the tanks. To make the heater more efficient all the 4" flex hose has been replaced with 4" and 6" galv. steel ducting. The warm air from the Surbuban heater now enters the trailer as far away from the return air intake as possible. All the ducting as well as the cage of the heater has been sealed with a duct mastic. The registers in the floor are upgraded from 3" x 10" to 4" x10" that can be closed. The heating duct for tank heat has been increased to 4". This duct can be closed when it isn't necessary to heat the tanks. My first choice for hot water and heat (for sure if I was building new) was a Bosch Buderus boiler (or similar with 96% efficiency) but it would have been 3X the work to pull out the floor insulation and install 3/8" radiant loops. https://www.bosch-climate.us/products-bosch-thermotechnology/boilers/residential-boilers/gas-condensing-boilers/ssb-residential-models.html .
  16. Need information on frames, suspensions

    Which ever fails last is stronger......but we don't know which failed first.
  17. Need information on frames, suspensions

    The screws around/under/along front cap/bunk area were breaking/stripping on our trailer. This is when the pin box deflection was 1 3/4". I asked a friend of mine who is a structural P.eng about it. Deflections of L/240, L/360 L/480 are acceptable. The trailer was L/55. After adding some steel it is now L/140. HSS stronger in torsion but a chassis is an assembly of beams, sheet and plate each being chosen by engineering/availability/ cost/fabrication/welding.....a circle I've gone around more times than I can remember.
  18. Need information on frames, suspensions

    Tube or HSS (hollow structural section) is no stronger than I beam. Commercial trailers use I beam. Both NH and Spacecraft use a combination of both. The easiest way to identify the strength of the chassis is by the depth....after that... the welding, connection between the upper deck and main frame, number of cross members, and length/spacing of outriggers. The easiest way to test the strength of a frame is to lift (no weight in the trailer) the pin box until the front landing gear comes off the ground. If the pin box moves up more than 1" before the landing great comes off the ground its not a high mileage trailer with limited use off the pavement.
  19. Solar & portable heater questions

    After getting tired of ceramic heaters I started to use these that have a 5 year warranty. Think I have 4 or 5 now. https://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/comfort-solutions/true-north/ On a 75' 14ga cord I'll run the heater at 900 watts.
  20. Vertical Pin Box

    The system can be cut off with a zip cut wheel or plasma.
  21. Best RV Generator?

    - Champion uses 192cc @ 3100w - Honda uses 163cc @ 2600w , 196CC @ 2800w , 270cc @ 3500w
  22. I've been using standard grade Raybestos for years. Found it to be the same or slightly better than OEM. Raybestos also makes best and premium grades. https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/en-us I tried Bosch re-man electrical parts then went back to OEM. If there is excess wear on the truck brakes means something isn't right with the trailer brakes. Trailers with elec/hyd brakes have a lag time due to the time it takes the pump to build pressure. To reduced the wear on the truck I'll place my foot lightly on the pedal to start the pump running before apply more brake. High pressure injection pump would be something to look at in the truck. If you going to modify anything start with the back end of the engine like the muffler (easy), then the down pipe (allot harder) before adding anything (fuel/air) to the front end.
  23. Best RV Generator?

    I had an after thought....a larger generator makes sense if it has 230V output.
  24. Best RV Generator?

    X2 on Honda/Yamaha and linking 2 x 2000w...ever since we picked up 2 x 2000w our Honda 3000 hasn't been used. Extended run fuel caps are a good addition. I don't run propane because I like to to keep the generators away from the trailer. Advantage of propane is it easier on the engine and it doesn't go sour like gas. Regular gas that has ethanol will go sour in 2-3 months. Premium grade gas here doesn't have ethanol in it. I left premium gas in an engine for a year and didn't have a problem...not something I'd try again though. We keep a container of fuel stabilizer in the trailer for the times that premium gas is not available
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