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  1. Just to be clear XPS isn't Urethane Spray Foam. You don't want to use spray foam in an RV unless there is a properly installed / 100% sealed vapor barrier. I've seen mold around the staple holes in a vapor barrier. Even the best foam spayed under ideal conditions is 5% open cell which means the foam will absorb 5% moisture/condensation. Also avoid ISO Board. ISO Board works great to insulate against heat (sun) but not cold. It contains a gas that when cold turn to liquid thus reducing the R rating.
  2. ALLOY


    We have a humidity guage hanging on the wall to tell us when things need to be vented or to turn the dehumidifier on.
  3. I ran a test a couple of months ago on some PVC board. Tried silicone, construction adhesive, 2 types of urethane. The only thing that didn't pull off the PCV was Geocel ProFlex RV. Proflex takes 5-6 days to cure. Use some Eternabond DoubleStick tape to hold the vent to the wall then caulk it with ProFlex RV.
  4. Good fix. I used a similar product 2 years ago in a leaking log splitter even though it used AW32 hyd oil.
  5. Best insulation (but not the easiest to install) in a RV roof is XPS (extruded polystyrene). It should be fit as tight (cut the pcs 1/32" oversize) as possible and then caulk any gaps so there is no air flow around it. If you want more insulation adding another layer of 1/4" or 1/2" foam will reduce the thermal bridging.
  6. The ideal solution would be to take the weight off the tires and suspension.
  7. A properly done crimp compresses the wire until it is solid.....thus there is no room for solder. I use to solder welding cables and the strand broke clean across the edge of the solder. Now I crimp welding cables and they still break but I can do 3-4 crimps in the time it took to solder 1. There a lot being asked of the wire and connectors that have 30lb swinging off it or worse when it is used to pull the welding machine around. Problem with solder is the flux that is introduced. The jacket on a wire is not waterproof. Even with heatshrink the flux continues to corrode the wires which reduces the codutivety of the wire.
  8. Bigfoot is ideal but the system will have a big impact on the carrying capacity of a trailer. For this reason, you'll find systems made with less durable aluminum cylinders. Carrying capacity is a juggling match. I looked at the weights of the Imagine but the carrying capacity is not shown 🤨 Two - 4400albs axles + 594lb hitch should provide a GVWR of 9394lb but the GVWR is 7995lbs. Also, the 594lb hitch weight is 7.5% which is shy of the recommended 10-15%. Unless you go custom (New Horizons or Spacecraft) no trailer is overbuilt. Reason for this is price and weight. There are no bad manufacturers but each manufacturer produces poorly built trailers. The higher the production the greater the percentage of poorly built trailers. It is up to the buyer to ensure the sale is subject to a thorough (2-3 day) PDI so that poorly built trailers stay on the dealer lot. Trailers that have been on a dealer lot (this is called lot rot ) for a while or have a special sale price are a signal to be extra careful. The
  9. I know someone that has been blowing out the water lines and using windshield fluid in the traps for years. In our trailer I installed traps with clean outs that unscrew so the water drains into a pail and I blow the water lines out.
  10. I've made a few. Most often I'll use 1/4" or 3/8" x 1" copper - 1/4" drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts - 3/8" drilled and tapped for 5/16" bolts. The 1" wide material is necessary to provide the surface contact for 1/0 - 4/0 wire/cable lugs. When making the connection use an anti corrosive paste like Noalox or Tef-Gel Here's a chart https://stormpowercomponents.com/resources/ampacity-tables/quick-copper-busbar-design-selector
  11. AC and DC marine wire has to be stranded and crimped and using electrical tape is a no no. Differences in the standards must that there are fewer deaths given that it is easier to escape a RV fire.
  12. I've been keeping my eye out for a new used GE stacking gas washer/dryer set that I can break apart.
  13. I was taught to strip the wire 3/4" the length of the wire nut and twist the 2-4 wires until there is 1-2 turns/twists of the (insulated) wire outside of the nut. When crimping solid wire it is critical that the correct (not universal) crimping dies are used. Electrical tape is temporary and it leaves a sticky mess. Interesting fact....In a boat both the AC and DC wiring is stranded (boat cable) but AC in a RV is solid. In boats people will use the crimp connectors meant for 12VDC on the AC which is a no no as the 12VDC crimp connectors are split.
  14. I've used/installed Danfoss electric underfloor to warm up a bathroom floor also sidewalk/driveway snow melt. I've not seen it used for heating. It would use up a good chunk of a 50amp service. https://www.danfoss.com/en/products/floor-heating-ice-and-snow-melting/dhs/electric-underfloor-heating/electric-underfloor-heating-mats/
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