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leot

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  1. I took the refrig out and turned it upside down for a day, plugged back in and is cooling, however the freezer got down to 0 degrees F in a couple hours so it running full blast, I checked the Thermister and it is putting the right amount of OHMs 3600 room temp and 9000 in glass of ice water. I bought a new thermistor and it is registering the same warm and about 9230 ohms in ice water. I am going to try it and see if it helps. Anybody have any other ideas? could my lower circuit board be bad? anyway to test it? I am assuming that since the refrig is cooling that the cooling unit is OK.
  2. see this link>>> http://www.nancyemmert.com/region6/Resources/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf
  3. see below.... I have continuity, on gas if I unplug one side the flame shuts off, so I know that is working. In the service manual it talks about the 12 volt terminal block, I have 12+DC volts there but then it shows testing it for AC Volts and says it should not have more than 6, my digital volt meter is jumping all around from 0 to 70 volts not really getting a reading on AC Volts. (see page 10 section 4) 5.14 thermofuse Newer and replacement cooling units have a Thermofuse located on the boiler. The function of the thermofuse is to shut down the control system in the event the cooling unit has a problem. On certain units the fuse can be reset by pushing the button in the center. The thermofuse is a non-replaceable component of the cooling unit. When the fuse pops it is normally an indication the cooling unit has a problem and the cooling unit will have to be replaced. The fuse can be checked for continuity .
  4. I downloaded the service manual. The switch I referenced is mentioned by j2catfish above.
  5. I have the same refrig, same problem, lights on at control panel, 110 and propane work, chimney gets hot but system doesnt cool, was 2 years old in May, no evidence of amonia or yellow powder, refrig was only used about 20 nights and is like new. That little bimetal switch seems to have continuity in both positions? is there a way to bypass that to see if that is the problem? I checked the thermister and it has the correct OHMs , the control panel has correct volts. After only 2 years it seems like the refrig was defective?? Any help is appreciated.
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