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remoandiris

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  1. Surveys and statistics can be manipulated based on how questions are asked. And a survey done on this forum is a representation of this forum, not the RVing population as a whole. Your last sentence is the best answer.
  2. Stop overthinking it. There are a whole lot of opinions here, some good, some bad. Those who do not have Fla as their domicile are not helping you. I would be VERY surprised if the folks in Bushnell can't easily walk you thru this process. You are FAR from the first couple to do this. Stop overthinking it.
  3. Common practice for who? I've been doing this a little while. Never needed to do it and never seen it done. But I don't have one of those bikes that sit too low, either.
  4. No, you do not have to be hooked up to load/unload. IMO, you are better off being unhooked and LEVEL when loading or unloading. If you are not level, you have NO IDEA what kind of twisting force you are putting on the RV's frame when loading/unloading.
  5. I workamped one year in NH with a 50 amp rig on a 30 amp site. Popped the site breaker a few times. Would not do it again...just too much hassle for me. If you get free propane, and your water heater and fridge will run on propane, that takes a load off the electric. I did not have that option in NH.
  6. I have a Werner. 300lb capacity. Unfolds and extends to about 10 feet, I think. Never been pinched by it. Got it at Lowes several years ago. Fully extended I can just about get to the top of my 5er with one or 2 rungs left over. I don't like using the top rung ever. I can't see how anyone can be pinched by one of these unless you're careless. If it is too heavy to fold standing up, lay it on a side and push the pins in.
  7. I am assuming you're using a Condor or similar front wheel chock (or one of those under bike lock down things that fit Harley tourers), centered in the garage as far forward as possible. You likely have enough space on either side to put one of the bike stands to hold both bikes. A cheap moving blanket from Harbor Freight thrown over each bike is added protection from something falling on them.
  8. What else is in the garage? Can you sandwich the bikes between "soft" stuff? Another option is to get a bike stand, strap it to the floor, and then put the bikes in it. I use one of these both when traveling and when setup in a park. https://www.amazon.com/F2C-Bicycle-Parking-Storage-Outdoor/dp/B07P41FG9N/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bicycle+floor+rack&qid=1577545757&s=hi&sr=1-3
  9. Seems to me < $200 to reduce the noise of an AC is inexpensive. If you don't, you don't.
  10. https://wackoproducts.com/product-category/rv-a-c-silencer/ Anyone install one (or more) or these. Saw an article in "Trailer Life" and it looks like an inexpensive way to quiet things down. They also claim an increase in ducted air output. Guess that means it reduces air loss at the ceiling opening where this gets installed. Reviewers mostly say it works as advertised.
  11. I'm curious as to why you're switching domicile from TX to FL. TX, FL, and SD are the Big 3 when it comes full timers, and since you're already in TX...
  12. The same way a person sells a house when the bank holds a regular mortgage. The bank gets paid and whatever is left over goes to the seller. Very simple.
  13. In my experience, usually not. And if you make a special trip to the base just for gas/Exchange/commissary, you probably spent more time and money getting there and home than if you would have shopped off base.
  14. You may want to start your research here; http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/134666-water-softener/#comments
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