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About Rhyph

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    Full Member
  • Birthday 12/28/1975

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    Lawrenceville, GA
  • Interests
    Camping, Disney World and Fort Wilderness

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  1. Howdy! I went to go out and start my truck yesterday morning to give it a little exercise and an odd series of events happened (2007 Frieghtliner Sportchassis w/330 Mercedes). When I unlocked the truck with the alarm key fob, all seemed normal, other than when I opened the drivers door there was a chime coming from the inside of the truck. It is the same chime that happens if you open the door without the parking brake set. So I go ahead and start it, all seems fine and I let the truck air up. I release the brake (has air parking brake) and put the truck in reverse, then all heck breaks loose. The alarm (as in anti-theft) goes off, the truck locks itself, the digital indicator display on the Allison transmission selector pad goes out and comes back after a few moments (seems to be a slow flashing), and I get both check engine and check transmission lights. The dash the popped up with fault codes. In my trying to figure out what is going on, my attention went to the alarm system. I shut the truck down, pull the key, hit unlock on the fob and that stopped the alarm with a triple chirp, but the doors didn't unlock. I had to unlock the door manually. I get out of the truck and start over and all goes normal other than it now has fault codes showing in the dash, and it all goes to heck again as soon as I try to drive the truck. The truck seems to drive and run fine? I've only moved it around my driveway a few dozen feet. In the meanwhile, with the truck off I still get that chime with any door open. The next thing I did was put the alarm system in valet, no joy, so I put it back into normal operation. Last thing I've tried was disconnecting the batteries on the truck for 10 minutes and tried everything again, all the symptoms came back except 1. The door chime going off with the doors (any of them) open, even though the truck is sitting still, parked and off did not return. Does anyone have any thoughts on what might be going on? Is the alarm system going bad, even though it seems to be ok otherwise since it spazzed out prior to the power disconnect? How can I find out what the fault codes mean? Pics of the fault codes because I'm not sure the the digits are (letters vs numbers), and pulled in order as I cycled through the screens: There was a FAULT 1 / FAULT 2 in between these below, I assumed that mean FAULT 1 is the first code & FAIL #, FAULT 2 was the second code & FAIL #. I tried to call Sportchassis today and I didn't get an answer. Unfortunately I got super busy with work and couldn't chase them. I'm trying to figure out what my best next steps are, is the truck safe to drive somewhere if I can't fix it myself? Thanks in advance if anyone can give me guidance.
  2. Rhyph

    Overnight San Francisco

    +1 I frequent SF regularly, sometimes 8-10 weeks out of the year over the past 11 years, our corporate office is located there in the financial district. I can't tell you the number of times I've seen even something as mundane or compact as a camper van being ticketed, or officer friendly discussions with the owners telling them they are too big to park; they have to find an appropriate parking place/rv park. They've cracked down on it more in recent years, because of the housing cost problems and tech residents trying to do the whole van nomad living/camping lifestyle in packs that roam the parking lots and streets because they can't afford to rent anywhere else.
  3. Rhyph

    07 SportChassis A/V System

    Well I have an update on this. I got brave and took things apart! I figured out what the A/V switcher in the dash does and it has nothing to do with the actual a/v system itself, but rather it is actually for the back-up cameras. On the rear of my truck, there is a second round-pin style receptacle (I think 8 pin, I counted a few weeks ago now already). That receptacle is labeled "Voyager 2 Camera Input". I noticed that when I switch the switcher, with the head unit set to view the rear camera mounted on the headache rack of the truck, it would drop out if not set to input 1. So that's what it is for, switching between cameras, and apparently there is a set-up you can add two hard-wire additional rear view cameras on your trailer and then use the switcher to swap views between them on the head unit. I also figured out that there is no sound or video input hooked up from the game switcher on the rear console to the head unit at all - puzzling. In fact, it only goes to the overhead TV. But I know why and more on that in a minute. So, there was nothing hooked up to the auxiliary A/V input on the head unit at all. When I pulled the head unit out, I found the aux A/V input leads taped up and zip tied to the wiring bundle. So while I had everything pulled apart, I ran a new A/V cable set from that input to the rear game console storage cubby and solved that dilemma directly. Now here's why they may not have felt the need to directly hook up the A/V aux input on the head unit. That overhead TV has a built in FM transmitter apparently. You can set it to transmit on a certain FM radio station and in theory send audio that is being sent directly to the TV (in this case from the game switcher input on the rear of the console) to your truck's audio system by simply tuning to the FM channel the TV is broadcasting on. However, it seems my TV's FM transmitter is not working. I've tried the different offered FM channel options and the radio will not pick-up a peep of sound. Oh well, I have it bypassed and I can send video from the game console directly to the head unit's aux A/V input, and that goes back to the TV as well. Mysteries solved, and let be recorded in internet history.
  4. Rhyph


    I have a lot I can say on this, but I'll try to keep it short-ish. As a Bridgestone Tire Safety Engineer who lived through the Firestone-Ford Explorer fiasco (I wrote a contributing essay for the depositions), there is something fundamental you have to keep in mind. Tires are designed as part of a vehicles suspension package. The vehicles suspension package no matter the type, are engineered to start with the first thing in the series of many mechanical parts that makes contact between the vehicle and the ground. That is the tire. Tires have different designations, weight/load indexes and ratings, speed ratings, and service ratings for that reason. A tire's core construction technique differs in it's package design starting with the first layer in the cross section of a tire if you were to look at it, through to the exterior of the carcass you see exposed with your eyeballs. LT tires are designed for light truck suspensions. P-metric radial tires are designed for passenger car suspensions, ST tires for trailer suspensions and so on. I can break down all of the nuances in how a tire's size stamping and DOT coding works, but I'll spare you that for now as well. The various forces and dynamics each of the suspensions, vehicle loading, speed capability, etc are all accounted for in the design. Specifically when you talk about LT vs ST tires, the core of the radial belt package is where the bulk of the engineering differences are at. Why and what is that difference? A big part is the distance from the bead wire package to the start of the side shoulder supporting radial belt layers for one. Next is the cap wedge between the upper shoulder and tread layers of the tire. The ride quality difference between the two tire types is most impacted by the engineering difference at these points in tire construction. Things like impact fractures (people tend to call them side wall bubbles) develop on tires that did not have proper vehicle suspension impact protection as a result of a tire taking road force blunt trauma and abuse. Overheating at speed and load can also occur if the tires cap wedge can not dissipate heat fast enough, and this can cause separations of the bonding between the plies. When these tires are engineered, they are accounting for the fact that a trailer axle's suspension is NOT going to protect the tires from impact abuse and lateral loading (think trailer sway because of mushy, shifting sidewalls), and dynamic speed and loading heating. An ST type trailer tire, it's core, belt package, bead wire roll package, liner, cap, and sidewall layers are all designed to account for an un-tuned suspension, and to withstand many different types of an un-tuned suspension. LT tires on the other hand, are designed to be protected in the total package of the vehicles suspension system, to work together with it and when you improperly apply tire types and vehicle types together bad things happen. What I've given you here is a glimpse of the decades of my experience has given me, and in ernest to keep this from becoming the start of your tire manufacturing engineering degree, I'll generally stop here. With luck and at best if you do the wrong thing, nothing bad happens, but if something does happen, an accident investigator will look at everything, including your tires for contributions to the cause of a accident if the situation or type of accident warrants it. I do not like seeing people give or spread misinformation on the one thing that keeps you, your family and your vehicle/property safe on the road. ONE THING, ok maybe four, eight, twelve of those expensive round black doughnut looking things. People, please use the right tire type, with the correct, engineered ratings for your vehicles. The Sailun S637 ST is a properly engineered, and rated tire for trailer suspension use. The Goodyear Marathon is also, however expensive. I'm exhausted, someone else an talk about wheel safety, bearing loading dynamics due to offsets, etc.
  5. Rhyph

    All 4 slides inop

    Hmm, you don't mention what year, make and model 5th wheel you have. For us Heartland owners, we have a series of resettable 12v high amperage breakers that sometimes need resetting. It sounds like you might have something going on between the converter/charger and possibly your slide controls. Albeit I've never had the issue, I've seen others that have, and in the really rare case two of the 12v resettable breakers had disconnected. Upon reset all works again.
  6. Howdy all, I have for sale a Trailair Air Ride 5th Wheel Pin Box - Lippert 1621 with a 21,000lb tow rating, model number LC158778. We uninstalled it on February 10, 2018 because we have switched to a Sportchassis MDT for a tow vehicle and now use a Trailersaver hitch. Prior with our 2014 Ram 3500 in combination with a B&W Campanion hitch, this air ride kingpin eliminated pretty much all chucking and suspension jounce that our Ram would produce making the ride much less fatiguing. This is the link to where I purchased it from originally on April 28, 2016 for reference: https://www.etrailer.com/Fifth-Wheel-King-Pin/Lippert-Components/LC158778.html It was installed on our 2016 Heartland Road Warrior 420 on June 11, 2016 as show here: The trailer is stored at a semi-enclosed storage facility starting about 2 months after this installation photo was taken at our previous storage facility which was also at least covered. I estimate the kingpin to have about 8k miles miles on it. It is now sitting in our basement protected from the elements. It has never seen long-term exposure to the elements otherwise. I'm looking for any reasonable offer, that does not require me to ship it, It weighs a lot, and I can not move it due to back injuries. I've seen estimates of it weighing in at 184lb, but my guess is more like 200-230lb, maybe more as others I've seen rated between 230-250lb. I can meet someone within a reasonable distance on a weekend, I'm near Lawrenceville, GA, and I'd consider driving out around 100 miles if the offer is good and I can bring 1 helper to assist with wrangling it, but you'll need to be the other half of the help to physically move it. We haven't planned any outbound trips yet, but as we do, I'll certainly keep up here with updates so we if happen to be in your area, we can bring it with us. I can get photos of it sitting uninstalled if anyone wants to see it in present condition, but it really doesn't look much different than above minus a little bit of weathering from trip use.
  7. Rhyph

    Insuring a MDT

    Sorry I didn't reply sooner, having just gone through all of this myself. I found one place that was not insane, and one that was sorta insane against all others that had lost their minds (including Progressive) and pretty much were going to sack us with full commercial type insurance and rates. National General got the business, and our policy has our MDT, 5th wheel and our 2 cars on it. The agent we dealt with asked us what club memberships we had, and as I listed them off, he choose one and used it to secure us a discount large enough to basically keep our rates about the same annually compared to what we had through Geico prior with my Ram 3500. We did call others, including Millers. There is a policy there which I saw mentioned prior, where you must insure the truck and the trailer together, but the gentleman I was speaking to threw up a HUGE red flag. That is, the truck can not be driven separately from the trailer, and if it were driven separately, and forbid anything happened, the truck would not be insured. I said that was nuts because for us we will still need to use the truck to get around, run errands, etc. As I was still going through getting quotes, I went back to National General and asked them that very specific question. They said no problem, you can drive the truck by itself as much as we want. So that's what I found as I went through all this. Good luck!
  8. Rhyph

    First Time Hook-Up

    Awesome, thanks Chad, and everyone else for all the additional information so far. I went back to our storage facility yesterday and this time I did a full hook up and pulled the trailer out into the open; over to where I could find as level an area as possible. It looks quite different having it out compared to where it was sitting, and I took some more photos, plus brought my 48" level with me (largest i have in the tool shed). You can see in this picture the trailer looks fairly level to the eye. The area I was in, made it near impossible between opposing structures at my back and the sun nearly dead ahead in this shot to get a good, clean straight-on image. I also can't get one from the other side, there is a large retention pond on that side and a protective fence about 10' away. This is the most level area of the lot that I have to work with, everything else is graded down slope to this area, hence the retention pond on the other side. It is hard to see it in the above photo due to the shadow, but it looks a ton better here, and if I'm visually nose low at all, it's maybe an inch to the eye. Even the landing gear have much better clearance sitting here. The bubble level tells an interesting story as well. This photo is inside the forward living area door. This is inside the rear garage door. In addition to the level showing center bubble, maybe just touching the rear line at both front and rear, I also checked the level on the ground along the trailer and it was sitting bubble touching the forward line, but still nothing out of the markers. I also measured the front corners of the trailer from the lower skirting to the ground. This surprisingly did have the most variance which puts me right back on the fence, but I don't know if I should be too concerned. Front to ground measured 24", rear to ground measured 28". It sure doesn't look that far off to the eye. I also have nothing in the back of the trailer. Normally we carry a custom 4-seater golf cart with us and that's not in there at the moment. We are itching to take it out on a trip, I might do something close by for a long weekend and pull more measurements as things settle in after actually having it out on the road a bit along with having the golf cart in the back. Interesting! In all of the above, we found getting to the white line took about 78PSI, according to the gauge in the truck (who knows how accurate that is). I also tried 80, and 85, and that took the line to about 1/2" above the rail on the hitch, which according to the manual is recommended max just for comparisons. My assumption was riding somewhere between 75-78psi per the gauge would have been about the right starting point for pressure and adjust as feel/ride dictates when on the road?
  9. Rhyph

    First Time Hook-Up

    Ok, this is what I was afraid of and suspected. There was some part of my mind that wanted to deny it lol. The Sportchassis comes from the factory set-up with a plate that is pre-drilled and set on the top of the rear frame rails ready to accept mounting of a TSLB2H. So, there is no direct way to gain height by moving the plate on the frame rails. This is the Trailersaver on install day a few weeks ago. I don't have a good picture handy that exposes the plate it's bolted to yet, I can try to get one when the rain stops and we have some decent light. The box idea is intriguing, any chance you might have any photos of your set-up laying around you could share for when I try to find someone to build this, so I have something I can show them for reference? I think I'm going to need somewhere between 2-4", and I'll measure to get more scientific before having something done. Do the bolts run through the entire assembly to "sandwich" it all together (eg. 3"+/- long bolts) in one go to the plate? This is the freshly reinstalled factory king pin on the trailer itself. I don't know if anyone can tell for sure, but I'm fairly certain it can not move down at all. If I moved it down, the rear most lower bolt, and front most lower bolt would not have a hole to grab. I assume that's a showstopper. I also assume there's not drilling the trailer side mounting flange, despite there maybe being just enough to get another hole through it for various metal fatigue and safety reasons. The whole reason we went back to this kingpin was Lippert telling me I could not use the Trailair with the Trailersaver hitch. This is the Trailair having been freshly installed back around June 2016.
  10. Rhyph

    First Time Hook-Up

    Well, I got past our next milestone is setting up our 5th wheel to tow with our Sportchassis. Today's activity was to take the Trail-Air kingpin off the 5'ver and put back the factory solid king pin. Got through all of that fine and hooked up to look at how the trailer sits. Unfortunately is seems to be a bit nose down. I made sure the Trailersaver air pressure was adjusted to the white line at the side rail on the hitch, per the manual. Air suspension on the Sportchassis was aired up. The trailer is however sitting nose down enough that the front landing gear are at about 10" off the ground when fully retracted, and overall the trailer looks like its putting a bit more pressure on the front most of the three axles. Looking at the trailer from the side, it doesn't look too bad... I don't know what to do to get an more pin height out of the trailer. I put factory king pin back on where it was when we got the trailer new from the factory, which is set at it's lowest bolt holes. How concerned should I be about this in general and the ground clearance on the front landing gear?
  11. Rhyph

    Millenicom is back

    Yes and the comparison I was making was specifically based on using any device as a hotspot and/or actual hotspot devices. The 10gb limitation without the add-on is there on hotspot data no matter the device being used or provider of the T-mo service. For clarity, I was thinking of a data only situation for hotspot usage and a hotspot device, I didn't include thinking about having a usable voice line since a hotspot device won't make use of it. However all said and correct, you could do a phone device through T-mo, on the One package, plus the $25 add-on for the ~$100 and have more overall with the voice line and a fully featured phone of your favorite flavor.
  12. Rhyph

    Millenicom is back

    If the Ultimate Plan is the T-Mobile One plan in disguise, which it appears to be, then this is not unlimited data on hotspots (mifi type devices). T-Mobile only allows 10GB of Hotspot data, unless you purchase their $25 add-on package which I do see is offered by Millenicom as well. With the add-on, the hotspot data usage is then metered to the 50gb with tower saturation reprioritization. Millenicom does not explain this very well anywhere I can see, so be careful and I'd ask about this specifically. Otherwise, I see no cost or feature advantage to going with Millenicom over T-Mobile directly, beyond maybe the hardware itself.
  13. Rhyph

    MDT VS Dodge 3500 DRW

    We just made the jump to a SportChassis from our 2014 Ram 3500 DRW 4x4 crew cab long bed. The number 1 reason we did it? Turning radius. We had a 2014 Big Horn 3610RE, and then moved to the 2016 Road Warrior 420. The turning radius issue became even more problematic, especially in tighter back in situations in campgrounds. The Ram did well with the BH, however the RW made it only feel adequate from a control and braking perspective, otherwise the truck had plenty of pulling power and comfort features. The second reason we did it, was at only 36k miles on the Ram destroyed it's exhaust system (DPF, cat. converter, injectors, EGR system etc) all completely replaced, under warranty and it had been in 3-4 other times for on/off performance issues related to it. Sadly the track record on these trucks is, you will deal with it again probably out of warranty and you can choose to spend a few thousand on replacing it all stock, or doing modifications and reprogramming at some point to avoid it all. The rest of the justifications is as already mentioned, things like air over hydraulic brakes with much better native stopping power, the Allison transmission, air ride everything, storage - love the storage, and the loss of a true pick-up truck bed for us was no big deal, we just drag a 6x12 trailer around when we want to goto the big orange box store or whatever. As we just learned for ourselves, if you consider this any more seriously, check into things like registration, tagging, insurance and drivers license requirements for your locale. The item we had to navigate with difficulty was finding an insurer that wouldn't zing us as a commercial vehicle, and in Georgia we are required to have a Class E drivers license.
  14. Rhyph

    07 SportChassis A/V System

    Thanks for the info! I haven't done any real removal of anything yet, mostly just looking around and peeking at what I can without starting the whole process. I'm a believer in do it all once if you can when R&R'ing on older vehicle panels and such to minimize breakage risk. From what I've seen so far while exploring in that center console, the rearward compartment has two philips head screws, below its door which hold the top of the console on. Down inside that compartment are what look like two larger bolts going through the floor of it, I'm assuming that's holding down part of the main console box to the floor of the truck. In the forward smaller compartment, there is a trap door which opens to a lower compartment, but I didn't see any other screws or bolts in there that were obvious. Are they hiding under the carpet maybe? Thanks! Ps. I joined the club and I'm awaiting our member #, yay!
  15. Rhyph

    07 SportChassis A/V System

    Howdy all, I'm trying to figure out the A/V system in our new to us 2007 SportChassis RHA-114. Everything seems to be working well with a couple exceptions, here is the set-up best I know it. The head unit is the Pioneer Avic Z1. In the dash below the head unit amongst the various other truck controls is the 4-input A/V switcher button. It has the Pioneer 12-disc changer. Kicker amps and subwoofer under/behind rear seat. Ceiling mounted TV for rear seat passengers. On the rear of the center console, it has the game a/v selector, 150w inverter outlet, a/v input set-up and compartment to stash a gaming console. Here's where the exceptions or potential trickery that I can't seem to figure out come in. I attempted to hook-up a game console to the A/V inputs on the rear of the center console here: I set the little selector switch on the panel there to game. On the TV on the ceiling, I figured out that with it set it to the "sub" input (the head unit in the dash is on AV1 and comes through fine as well). With everything set this way, I get the game console on the TV screen on the ceiling to display fine - no problem, but I have no game console audio anywhere. So I then move to the head unit in the dash and I've tried all sorts of various combinations of it's A/V input-Video, EXT, etc etc and can't seem to get at least the audio from the game console to the head unit in the truck so we can hear what's going on. Specifically with the head unit set to A/V input, it just gives us a blank/black screen. I have also tried changing the AV selector on the dash between inputs 1 through 4, but I know our backup camera is on input 1, so I suspect that switcher isn't related to the actual in-truck A/V system at all? For obvious reasons I'm not looking for video up front from the game console, just the audio to play throughout the truck. Now, here's one other little factor on an issue I have that might matter. The truck came with a pair of headsets for listening to the ceiling mount TV I presume, they look like an IR type headset and when I look up at the TV on the ceiling I can see what appears to be IR emitters in a panel up there. The batteries in both of these headsets exploded at some point in previous ownership, so they do not work. My guess is, this is one way to hear audio from that game console source as I imagine it's at least being piped directly to the TV? So to recap and directly ask my questions: How do I get audio from the game console to run throughout the truck? What if any magic combination of input selections do I have to choose to make that happen? Does anyone know where I might source replacement headsets if that's the only way to get that audio? Maybe these, they look a lot like the old ones?: XO Vision Universal Infrared Wireless Foldable Headphones for In-Car TV What's the deal with the 4-input A/V switcher in the dash, does it have anything to do with the video system in the truck or is it for backup/exterior cameras only? Where is the 'box' located with the inputs and outputs for whatever the 4-input A/V switcher in the dash is actually controlling? How do you open up that center console between the front seats without doing damage (I suspect a lot of the wiring runs through it and I could chase things if I knew where to start opening her up)? Sorry for the huge batch of questions and info to sort through, but as new owners we're trying to figure out where to start sorting all this out. I've tried contacting SportChassis directly and they haven't gotten back to me, and that was over a week and a half ago. Also, thanks in advance for any assistance anyone can render!