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peety3

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    Duvall, WA near Seattle

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  1. peety3

    Rear Leveling Valve

    The bags were at 50psig, which is about 4.5x atmospheric pressure, and therefore they had about 4.5x the (normal) volume of air in them. If you remove the load, that air will expand the bag to the limit, probably doubling the volume and thereby lowering the pressure to 2.25x atmospheric, or about 20psig. At that point or perhaps after a short delay, the valve should begin releasing pressure to bring the height to where it belongs (a point of equilibrium of pressure/volume/weight of the suspended part of the hitch). If you crank down the landing gear and release the load gradually, it should equalize steadily either as fast as you release the load or at least by the time you climb back in the cab and separate the rig.
  2. Weight does not matter. Coefficient of friction does. Angle of incline does (some of the gravitational force is not applied in a direction that benefits traction). The only difference in stopping distance between a bicycle, car, pickup, HDT, etc., assuming they all have the same tires, is that the vehicle(s) with air brakes have a delay for the air to get to the brakes. That delay is decreased through the use of relay valves, but nonetheless it's non-zero. Now, if you have any axles without brakes, that's a problem. Any axles without anti-lock brakes is a problem. Etc.
  3. The "detail-oriented" feature in me wants to point out that they're the same gears. It's a five-speed transmission (L/1/2/3/4) with a two-speed range set and a two-speed splitter set. 5x2x2=20 possible gears, however L is either not possible or not recommended in high range (so 5x2 + 4x2 = 18), and on the 13-speed the splitter is disabled in low range (5 +4x2 = 13). For comparison, the iShift is a three-speed with two-speed range and two-speed splitter, all gears always enabled (3x2x2 = 12).
  4. Wheelbase looks to be too long to get it into California, and will definitely require a tandem HDT due to weight/balance.
  5. As a kid, I wanted to drive a truck. As a college student, I got my CDL-A+TN. I have never driven professionally, though the license came in handy as a volunteer firefighter to drive fire trucks (which could have been done with an "exempt" license in Texas). In 2012, when it was time to renew, I got surprised by the new medical requirement, but the gal at the DMV said that it was possible to self-certify that I was not going to drive interstate. That worked fine two months later when transferring to WA state, worked again two years ago to upgrade to an "enhanced" CDL, and worked again last year for my regular renewal. I intend to keep the CDL, even if it's more burden on me if I were to get a ticket, until I absolutely positively cannot. I don't know what it might come in handy for...one possibility is that an RV may be limited to a certain overall vehicle length limit, but a commercial truck may be limited to a certain trailer length (but not overall, or at least a longer overall length). I could then form a trucking company and follow commercial regs, but be able to use a 53' RV trailer that wouldn't have been possible with a non-CDL.
  6. It's 4.11 Canadian, right, so that'd be 3.00 US,eh?
  7. Don't forget the tie-down straps...relative to the bicycle, the straps have enough weight to warrant being a second line item. Heck, the weight of that bicycle is on par with three gallons of fuel.
  8. That's exactly what I meant and exactly why I wrote it the way I did. Make sure you notice the minus sign before the 5-10% of weight on the front axle: 105-110% of pin weight on the drivers and -5-10% of pin weight on the steers.
  9. HDTs put the hitch far aft for a few key reasons: to offset the weight of a Smart car or similar payload sitting in front of the rear axle, to ensure swing clearance behind said Smart car/similar, or because the pin location on their trailer doesn't offer enough swing clearance to allow it to be in a traditional position. Commercial hitches are often slidable, but inevitably end up in one position for life. They're constrained by weight laws, with 34k on a tandem set, 20k on a single axle, and 600-800 pounds per inch of steer tire width (state-dependent). With a 12k or 13.2k steer axle, there's little to no margin if they want to get to their max legal 80k weight, and the right place for that is inevitably just a hair in front of drive tandem centerline. Check out most fuel haulers: you'll find a fixed (non-slide) fifth wheel, because they want every possible pound of payload and they know exactly how the weights will pan out.
  10. With no Smart or other "obstacle" on a bed, I think the options open up and the priorities change significantly: 1) You could put the hitch just ahead of the drive axle (putting 90-95% of the pin weight on the drivers and 5-10% on the steers) or just aft (putting 105-110% of the pin weight on the drivers and -5-10% on the steers). 2) Swing clearance on the trailer dictates how far forward of the rear bumper (or equivalent) you can put the pin - full aft means you need barely more than 4'3", and it all comes down to the Pythagorean theorem: A*A (where A = 4'3" or half of the width of an 8'6" vehicle) + B*B (where B = the distance between pin and rear bumper) = C*C (where C = the swing clearance of your trailer). 3) Bed design just has to fit the outcome of #1 and #2 (OK, it has a small influence on weight & balance).
  11. As I understand it, pretty soon the Feds are going to mandate Electronic Logging Devices on commercial rigs - essentially an attempt to use technology to prevent "cooking the logbooks". Anyone know if we'll end up with challenges getting HDTs to operate without an ELD after an RV conversion?
  12. Slow down a second. Remove/reinstall is a lot, lot different than aftermarket alteration. If the Volvo components are removed and put back where they were, they've got to warrant the piece. Or they've got to prove that what you did caused the damage. They cannot just "void the warranty", and even if they do have some sort of legal grounds to void the warranty on one piece, they cannot void the entire warranty unless they're willing to prove that each and every piece of the truck has been damaged by aftermarket stuff/work.
  13. Any chance it's an issue with the specific hinge you chose? I'm having a hard time imagining how a piano hinge could have slop in it.
  14. You want a "snatch strap" (stretchy strap) as your safety unless you have a way to keep the safety line nearly taut during the entire winching process. You don't want two immoveable/unstretchable things to have a war of the worlds at the wrong instant.
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