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Everything posted by LHS61

  1. What is status of the Rose Parade HOP for 2021?

    How can we sign up for it?

  2. I've been running 6 Trojan 105s off my solar system and original setup. They have been seriously discharged a few times but seem to be ok now. My question is this: how can I determine the life I can expect is remaining in this battery bank?
  3. I guess the next time my joints open up, I will use the Liquid Roof product. If I get 2 years out of the HD product, I'm happy.
  4. One way is to buy a gallon of the white rubber (elastomeric) product sold at Home Depot and the 6 inch wide joint sealing fabric from the same manufacturer. Its not cheap, but that much should last you for years. I cut it down to about 2.5 inches wide and put a base coat on the joint first, then the fabric, then another coat of the product. Its tough and durable. Some folks will quibble about using it on rubber roofs etc. For my money, its the way to go. Be sure to clean the joints first.
  5. I found that the expensive cleaners designated for Corian didn't work for me. I don't know if this works for deep scratches, but it works great for removing stains in about 20 minutes. Go to Home Depot's cleaning product section and find the industrial (commercial) liquid bleach. It works great, just be careful with it to avoid getting it on anything else in the area. I use rubber gloves and a small sponge to apply it carefully. Its amazing.... and cheap.
  6. This thread is impressive... pretty thorough. Regarding living organisms and viruses, I have heard from those who travel into the back country of SE Asia, that a few drops of bleach will kill all them. I'm wondering if that would be a solution for the worst case person could get into. I don't recall the ratio of drops per gallon...obviously, the taste could be impacted. Derek: what's your opinion on this?
  7. It might help to know the specifications of these products. Flow Pur's #7 filter removes 99.9% of cysts and their #8 filter is rated at 5 microns... the #7 is part of their "ultimate filter system" Flow Pur's site: http://www.flowpur.com/html/rv_filters.html Educational info found here:https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/ABChoosingACartridge.htm
  8. Not to belabour this topic, but I am glad that the overall tax structure for SD compared to Washington State is 60% less.... now all I have to do is study the positions of the SD politicians so I can cast an intelligent ballot later this year
  9. Maybe this is to late, but I just bought 4 ea Trojan T105s for $98 / ea plus core in Phoenix from "The battery guy" http://www.thebatteryguy.com/ --- no tax ... don't ask why
  10. Its been a couple of months since this thread was 'hot'.. but here's my 2 bits worth: The most vital factors are quality, age & price. There actually is a 'premium quality tier' of RVs and motorhomes. You will get a deluge of advice on the quality issue, but remember that durability over time depends on quality not to mention your pride of ownership. My suggestion is that you get the most bang for the buck in a used, premium quality rig, gas powered. I like Newmar and Tiffin but there are others in the top tier. Take your time, do your research and go for it Now for the "blow back" on the quality question.
  11. I agree with this advice... " Just take it a step at a time and follow the path that makes you feel most comfortable, not everyone follows the same path, and in the RV life its easy to change your path." With this addendum: I'm readjusting to the single lifestyle on the road full time after the failure (?!?) of a 44 year marriage. My guess is that the first 12-24 months will be the hardest period for you. Consider volunteering where you are in a friendly community and can contribute to the general welfare in some way. I like these 2 christian ministries to volunteer at: sowers http://www.sowerministry.org/ and MBI associates http://missionbuilders.org/mbi-rva/ In both cases, your parking and hookups are provided along with some meals. You are meeting people and contributing in ways that are really appreciated.
  12. Sounds like you have got 2 major decisions to make... I went through the 'best quality class A on the used market' issue a few months ago. I suggest you focus on the quality of the MH independent of the solar upgrades and modifications. Otherwise if you mix the criteria, you could wind up with more problems than you bargained for. Assuming you want to keep this unit for a few years, I suggest you focus on the top 4-5 quality brands; such as Tiffin, Newmar etc. Kirk and others will probably weigh in on this. I bought a 10 year old Newmar with 2 year old tires and 11K miles on it. Even with the inevitable issues (replaced and AC) I'm glad I chose the Newmar. The cabinet quality and attention to detail in the design of the coach will make this unit serve me full time for a number of years.
  13. I discovered I have 2 each 45 amp Iota chargers running in parallel. I just ordered the "IQ4" smart controller from Iota to make these units into 4 - stage chargers. That should help some. In addition, I will move to the other side of the property and hook to shore power for a week. I'm not sure these 2 month old batteries were 'broken in' properly. When I got them I hit the road and dry camped for about 5 days. That was followed by 6 days on shore power in a campground. I'm getting educated about these chargers by reading Bill Moeller's book and the good advice on this forum. Moeller recommends the Xantrex Battery monitor which tracks amp-hour usage... which I will be installing soon. He says to never discharge below 50% of the battery's capacity and preferably stay above 70%. He also claims that repeated discharging below 12.1 volts will shorten battery life. I can't understand why Newmar doesn't install the $30 smart controller in the original build. Actually, the Mountain Aire is not an entry level coach. Thanks for all your advice PS - I just talked to the tech dept at Iota Engineering and they said the smart controller will make the chargers have a bulk charging voltage of 14.8 whereas the bare charger puts out 13.6 to start. Like I said, some experts do crazy things... i.e. Why would anyone not want a 4 stage charger in their RV?
  14. Its a Norcold 1200 but I see that as a separate issue.... I run it on LP 90% of the time. My concern focuses on why I could be reading 12.6 volts from the battery bank and have a failing specific gravity of 1.1 reading on the hydrometer
  15. Two months ago I installed 2 new deep cycle, 6 volt golf batteries from NAPA in my Class A. I thought my battery problems were solved, but not so. All was fine when I was spending most of my nights on shore power for the first 4 weeks (right captain obvious). In the last month I have been dry camping and running the generator every 2-3 days. Then the refer started giving alarms about low voltage... at about 11.8 volts about a week ago even though I had ran genset 24 hours earlier. So I read some RV books and decided to hook up MH to shore power for 18 hours. Sure enough the voltage now reads 12.6 BUT the specific gravity sets at 1.12 which indicates the need for recharging... Color me confused! Should I have gone through some break-in procedure for these new batteries? What am I missing? How long should the genset run to properly charge the these deep cycle batteries?
  16. Case closed....thanks tons to all who responded. New batteries did the trick. BUT I have a question about batteries: Is it advisable to use bottled drinking water for the batteries (like from Walmart) ?
  17. Thanks Dick in Oregon for calling me about this...you gave me a bit of a primer on MH dc systems in a few minutes. Thanks tons. Turns out the batteries had to be replaced (2 years old). I'm on my "shake down" tour with this couch just started out 7 days ago from Phoenix. Trying to make those long 6-7% grades to reach the 7000 ft elevation of Flagstaff was a major struggle for my 8.1 chevy. Alls well now for the time being. This elevation is something else... but thanks to everyone for all the advice. Crisis solved for $300 worth of batteries. This is what Escapees is all about... amazing folks willing to help however they can. Thanks again dave
  18. Re: 03 Newmar Mountain Air I'm stuck with my slides out dry camping.... put 'em out using the generator last night. Now the generator won't start The one RV service place recommended on the internet no longer does repairs, only parts. The Onan dealer can't help me until Monday. I told him the symptoms (coach DC voltage way low after using generator). He said it sounds like a charge control issue. The batteries have a "Global Technologies - ICP" charge controller on them with both the 'charge' and 'full' lights out. ANY ADVICE GREATLY APPRECIATED -- ESPECIALLY SOMEONE I COULD GET TO COME TO THE COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS PARK AND HELP ME WITH THIS -- THERE IS NO SHORE POWER IN THE PARK FOR NOW DAVE CEL 360-275-1853
  19. Thanks guys.... seller of MH gave me a set of brackets that the local Roadmaster dealer is welding in place where the tow brackets were before. The transmission issue seems to be a non issue, but I will be using a synthetic lube (Amzoil) http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/ as an extra precaution.
  20. I'm picking up my 'new to me' Nemar MH in the next few days in Sun City. I have a small '92 Toyota pickup that is in pristine condition with a 5-speed manual transmission. I need to get it set up to for towing and have been given a Roadmaster 5250. Their website says the mounting bracket for this truck is part #1117-1 so I guess the physical side of the hook-up will work. The "specialist" at CW said that the tranny on my pickup "may" not be compatible with my plans due to lubrication issues. Does anyone have experience and/or comments on these older Toyota 5-speed transmissions ?
  21. I got the cash in the bank from my home sale and will be shopping in the Phoenix area for a used class A (gas) by owner, beginning Friday June 5th. Can anyone recommend a good company or technician to check out whatever unit I find?
  22. I worked for a commercial refrigeration company for a while and the best (simple profits) was the call we got from the convenience stores that their beer coolers were not working well enough.... 9 times out of 10 their condensers were full of dust and lint. We come with the nitrogen bottle, blow out the dust and charge 'em $500 ... and the were glad to pay it. YOU ARE CORRECT: BLOW OUT THE DUST AND SAVE YOUR COOLING UNITS, refer or AC
  23. Love all the great attitudes.... like life, when you get a bunch of lemons thrown at you, make lemonade and share it with others. I guess I will have some stories to tell in a few weeks. I'm just launching my full time RV life next week !
  24. hey Altonymouscheck out my new posting in "class of 2015" if you haven't bought an RV yet... in my opinion, South Dakota is the way to go
  25. I did the research and listened to a bunch of old timers for 6 months before my home sold last week... NOW I'M LAUNCHING OUT !! OK... here is my experience and suggestions for those who have not committed to buying an RV yet to do the full time gig. I am getting my drivers license in South Dakota FIRST before buying my RV. Whatever state your DL is in will determine what sales tax and registration fees you will pay for your RV. So the SD tax is 3% and the fees are some of the lowest in the country. So after I get the SD DL, I can shop for an RV in any state and only pay the taxes & fees that apply in SD. After getting the DL in SD Tuesday, I will head to phoenix which is (in my opinion) the best area to buy a used RV. Check craigslist and RV Trader if you doubt this. Vehicle insurance and the whole picture is better is SD. For more info, check out this site (yes, there are other sites): http://www.americas-mailbox.com/ P.S. the Montana LLC thing for $1000 set costs plus $200 / year sorta turned me off
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