oldjohnt

Thanks for the feedback, the buzzing may have been 60 HZ ??? A changing magnetic field in proximity with metal can cause such,.... John T

Glenn, electronic devices aren't my cup o tea, but it may help the other electronic types and experienced users here, would you say the buzzing is 60 cycles in frequency ??????? John T

Glenn I have a different brand of shunt than yours, but I remember the initial set up WAS COMPLICATED I even had to read the directions over n over lol. Best I recall to set the shunts FULL Amp Hours indication to match my batteries energy storage capacity, I left the charger on a couple days then made sure there were no loads or chargers online. I must have done something right because its been over a year and the best I can tell my shunt is accurate from its 100% SOC read out at which time my charger and BMS shut down charging (quits drawing charge current or maybe a trickle maintenance) and I observe SOC slowly lower as loads are applied. I have no idea how yours is programed, but Id guess calibration and set up is the problem versus any hardware issues??? Call Victron and/or re read the directions I guess ???? John T

On a lot of models (no idea of yours) the ignitor tip, its electrode and wiring (flame sense circuit) serves dual functions. 1) When the control board calls for ignition the gas valve opens and high voltage is sent to the ignitor tip and it fires tic tic tic tic high voltage arcs current across the gap to ignite the fuel. 2) Ifffffffffff ignited the flame sense circuitry (part of the ignitor tip its wiring and also the control board) sends a signal back to the board so the gas valve remains open HOWEVER if there's no flame orrrrrrr the flame sense circuitry fails the gas valve closes and flame goes out. I've seen problems with the ignitor tip orrrrrrrrrrrr its wiring or a bad ground connection orrrrrrrrrrrr the control board cause such problems. Ive had some luck cleaning the tip and setting the gap correctly plus checking the wiring and grounds. Actually more problems with the tip or a hairline crack or not gapped correctly versus a bad board. HOWEVER that keeping firing even after the flame appears could still be a board problem ????????? Hard to say, but in the meantime check the tip, its gap, wiring and grounds. John T

Thanks Ana, yep what you say pretty much agrees with my initial guesses. "My non professional non mechanic GUESSES are some sort of a sensor is bad making the computer advance the timing way too fast (but no check engine lights are on ??) or perhaps the catalytic converter is all clogged up ??? " It wont be long before we go to the shop and I will let yall know what we find Best wishes take care now John T

Thanks Kirk, 3500 RPM was max sitting in the driveway just now, but when pulling a hill towing the Honda on our recent Florida return it would jump up to 4200 or more (after 2nd downshift, 5R 110) while pinging badly but would almost shut down temporarily so I took my foot back out of it and nursed it....... However last year I pulled the Honda up a 9% grade between Death Valle and Lone Pine CA like a champ no ping no power loss ever......... Wish I could get it in the shop sooner Im impatient lol but will get it fixed.......Maybe I got a tank of the wrong gas or it was Ethanol, something happened it didn't like, I have now added that or fuel pump/pressure to my other cat converter or sensor guesses ??? Im better at electrical stuff than engines lol Thanks again, best wishes, I will let yall know what we find.. John T

I changed oil today messed with it a bit and discovered something BUT IT MAY HAVE BEEN EXACT THE SAME BEFORE my problem above, I just don't remember trying this ?????? I tried and discovered that if I push the gas pedal all the way to the floor, it would top out at 3500 RPM and go no higher !!!!!!! NOW maybe the computer has some sort of a rev RPM limiter and that's how it works and may have before??? Or maybe there's a fuel pump/pressure issue which caused my sudden loss or power and severe pinging under load I described above ..When pulling a hill it would start pinging BAD at over 3000 but go all the way up to 4200 or so but then ping real bad and go like flat (like engine was yellng OH CRAP give me a break lol) until I took my foot out of it........ One more condition to consider I could almost swear this happened RIGHT AFTER I FILLED UP WITH GAS AT A WALMART Perhaps that load of fuel was incorrect or it was ethanol or just NOT the regular old 87 Ive always used ??????? The next 2 fill ups I used 89 octane but it made no difference grrrrrrrrr I cant wait to get it in the shop early next month and in the meantime Im doing all my normal routine maintenance I enjoy each spring when Im home Time will tell, still a mystery John T

Hi again sure, As a V10 Ford owner I'm enjoying this thread and look forward to your decision. Here are a couple interesting links I found regarding V10 upgrades as well as Banks performance reviews, however I would favor independent user reviews versus any the company publishes.. FMCA V10 Thread: https://community.fmca.com/topic/94-banks-power-pack-system/ Banks performance reviews: https://www.bing.com/search?q=banks+power+system+reviews&cvid=f9e83465754b4763bd3f354b8a4e8209&aqs=edge..69i57j69i64.10283j0j4&FORM=ANAB01&PC=EDGEDSE Let us know your decision John T

Super, having owned RV's over 50 years I've had most all the brands at one time or another and currently the V10 Ford which has served me quite well over 50,000 miles (hopefully a minor issue will be resolved soon). True it's NOT any great torque engine and it's my opinion sure a Banks system would add a few more horses AND IF I WERE YOUNG JUST STARTING AND PLAN TO DRIVE THE V10 A TON OF MILES I WOULD INVEST IN BANKS.....Instead of Banks the things Ive done with mine were to add a high capacity deep auto tranny pan and changed to synthetic fluid (I have the 5R 110 with Tow Haul selection) with the cooling tubes, gave it a fresh tune up some time back with new plugs fuel and air filters etc, flushed the cooling system, have ran full synthetic oil changed every 3/4 K miles etc.. OOPS I almost forgot I did have to replace some exhaust manifold studs last fall, there were no exh leaks yet but had some broken off grrrrrrrrrr Nothing money didn't fix lol But where to get it installed ?????????? YES Im a believer in Banks if you need a bit more power and will be driving it lots of miles. YOUR BUDGET YOUR CHOICE John T

EXACTLY, and add to that as noted by Chad, for those with low energy requirements. For those of us who want to power our coffee makers , microwaves, insta pots, air fryers, hair dryers etc etc for longer periods (absent a generator) I recommend individual Lithium batteries and Inverters to get more energy storage and inverter capacity for the dollars spent. AGAIN, even if not as dollar efficient, they are so simple and easy to use if I were a low energy user ID BUY ONE IN A HEARTBEAT LOL John T

Good evening Glenn, There's several brands of those so called "Solar Generators" coming online. What's great is their simplicity, plug n play, almost idiot proof, anyone can use them, sooooooooooo convenient.......NO I dont use them or consider them the best bang for the buck when it comes down to energy storage capacity and inverters. I shopped around did my homework, use my own installed LiFePo4 batteries, PSW Inverter, 12 VDC and USB outlets, plus various methods (Solar, DC to DC, 120 VAC charger) to recharge........... Again its my opinion they are great for many users and a good product, its just that I ended up with more energy storage inverter and DC capacity for the dollars spent. To each their own works for me John T

Not yet, it doesn't go to the shop until May 10, but my mechanic assured me he will find n fix the problem. His thoughts are similar to my own, he's thinking a sensor may be bad sending the wrong signal to the computer messing up the fuel/air mixture and/or timing HOWEVER since there's no red flags/codes showing it may just be a clogged cat converter but his analyzer shows past stored codes also. It starts n idles smooth n perfect and okay if a light load but knocks pings with no power and goes like flat up a hill which it NEVER did before.. Good news is there's NO sensor after/behind the converter so it and computer wont go bonkers........NO its NOT any simple air or fuel filter problem they are clean n like new .................. Already had new plugs and fresh tune up with no coil pack issues etc. I will let yall know what it was in May. Currently it's regular routine maintenance and minor upgrades now that its home which I thoroughly enjoy. I replaced my aging toilet with a ceramic/china which the wife really likes better than plastic. All the solar, lithium, Inverter, charger as well as my DC to DC charger are all working great as we love to dry camp John T

My yearssssssssss long method which never caused any problems I'm aware of, was to: Pack the bearing (like the grease gun attachment myself),,,,,,,,,,Coat the race,,,,,,,Coat the seal and shaft (ever so light film) so it slides on easy,,,,,,,,THEN PUMP JUST ENOUGH GREASE TO FILL THE CAVITY (best i can tell) BUT NOT TOO MUCH TO FORCE ANY PAST THE SEAL............ Worked for me at least, see what any true professionals or the manufacturer may have to say?? John T Happy Camper back home again in Indiana. Now it's all the regular routine maintenance and any RV repairs and upgrades, which I enjoy doing Happy and Blessed Easter everyone, He is risen

Its the huge canister style underneath it was changed maybe 8000 miles back it seems to get plenty of fuel (but hard to know for sure) its NOT cutting out or missing best I can tell, I can get over 75 MPH on the flats just no power when she starts up a grade when she starts spark knock pinging WHICH IT NEVER DID BEFORE even up a 10% grade towing the Honda........ I guess I could try it but it doesn't seem to miss or surge or cut in and out like if it had water in the gas ??? and it had two new fresh fill ups with 89 octane (used regular 87 past 50,000 miles no prob) Im just hoping the Snap On Analyzer (cost a fortune) may find a faulty sensor thats screwing up the fuel/air mixture and/or timing causing such a BAD hard loud spark knock never experienced before ??? Probably be early next week before I take it down there PS Im NOT ruling out my other guess CLOGGED UP CAT CONVERTER !!!!! its 17 years old THANKS John T

I just checked it pretty clean was changed last spring. The thing is this happened SO SUDDEN. I wondered about a bad tank of gas but after 2 new fill ups with 89 octane it was no better still had an awful spark knock pinging .........Not long ago in California towing the Honda out of Death Valley to Lone Pine up a steep grade it never once knocked pulled it decent.....Now all of a sudden starting up a hill at first shift down at 3000 it starts to ping but if the hill gets worse and it has to shift down again rising to 4000 or more it almost goes flat you have to back out of it ..........Im still thinking a bad sensor is causing the computer to advance timing way too fast ?????? It will be next week before I get it to the Snap On Analyzer hoping it will find the problem. Stil starts and idles smooth and perfect bit like no power under load and awful pinging......... I will let yall know what I find Thanks John T

My V10 Ford in the RV has performed ABSOLUTELY PERFECT the past 50,000 miles, had a recent tune up with plugs and fuel filter etc., but SUDDENLY developed a problem the other day..... .The power dropped off DRASTICALLY like I was pulling a Mack truck or the brakes were on but MOST NOTICEABLE was a terrible pre ignition spark knock rattle especially over 3000 RPM or heading uphill I NEVER HAD BEFORE always ran regular 87 gas..... ..Despite two tanks of 89 octane it made no difference AND NO ALARMS OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS ARE SHOWING !!!! My non professional non mechanic GUESSES are some sort of a sensor is bad making the computer advance the timing way too fast (but no check engine lights are on ??) or perhaps the catalytic converter is all clogged up ??? My professional mechanic buddy has a high dollar Snap On Analyzer Im hoping will diagnose the problem or sensor or whatever is causing the DRASTIC loss of power and terrible never heard before spark knock rattle at high RPM or under load IM LOOKING FOR ANY SIMILAR Ford V10 experiences or best guesses ?? I will let ya know what the Snap On Analyzer has to say, my free one from Amazon isn't all that accurate lol John T Back home again in Indiana and very happy other than the RV problem which will be fixed !!!!!!!!!!

I remember when I was looking for any particular thermostats the specs I looked for were CURENT RATING,,,,,,,VOLTAGE RATING,,,,,,,,NUMBER OF POLES,,,,,,,,,,and if they opened or closed on FALLING OR RISING TEMPERATURE. Im sure you found hundreds of such on Amazon John T "Back home again in Indiana" and very happy to be here for whatever time till its "back on the road again"

Neither do I !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ive NEVER had occasion to see it get that low... John T White Springs Florida but headed North

While one reads and hears about how you can take Li all the way down until it shuts off HOWEVER Im NOT a fan of doing so. Based on my battery storage capacity and energy use I seldom (using my Shunt based battery monitor) draw down much over 50%, which tells me my design (based on use, solar capacity and battery AH) is adequate. Should I get down to 50% overnight (often much much less use) as long as there's decent sunlight I may achieve 100% SOC by mid day to afternoon. Of course, if its rainy cloudy or Im parked under a canopy I may have to fire up the genset and charger during the day grrrrrrrrrrrr I would have to look at my battery and its BMS specs to see exactly when it shuts down, be it 80%, 90% or 100% ???? but I've never depleted it near that much to observe ??? John T

Thanks everyone, looks like ALL of us (me included) agree PLENTY OF WATER is best. I doubt if there's any good answer or accurate tests as to what IF ANY brand of chemical is best for breaking down tissue and waste, I was just asking in case someone knew of such..... With sooooooooo many brands and claims and adds, all of which claim are best who's to say lol.. Thanks again yall best wishes take care John T Exhibiting at Stephen Foster Antique Tractor Show in White Springs FL

For a change NOT an electrical question lol Having been an RVer over 50 years Ive probably tried many many different brands of Toilet chemical, so just looking for opinions on which yall think is best, especially regarding its ability to break down tissue and waste ??????? Sure we all know LOTS OF WATER is an answer and of course letting the tank be full before dumping, just looking for opinions on the best break down chemical ?????? Plenty of opinions out there on You Tube for sure lol John T Overnight dry camped at Cracker Barrell in Lake City FL, headed to become an exhibitor at the Stephen Foster Antique Tractor Show in White Springs

DITTO X2 Good neighbor Ray, "Most" 50 Amp RV's TYPICALLY use a 125/250 Volt 50 Amp NEMA 14-50P Plug, while I've seen 120/240 Gensets that have a 125/250 Volt 30 Amp L14-30R Receptacle. If you can't buy a factory dogbone adapter, its so EZPZ to make one using 4 Conductor Cord with a Female NEMA 14-50R Receptacle (RV plugs to it) on one end and a Male NEMA L14-30P Plug (plugs into genset) on the other......If the genset has the capacity such is an easy way to use it to power up a 50 Amp RV using ONLY an adapter, just remember you only have 30 Amps per leg (subject to genset capacity) instead of 50 at an RV park. John T

NOT a problem should you do so, ask away, myself and others will again be glad to help. FYI "some" Gensets come from the factory with a Floating Neutral, others a Bonded Neutral. I recommend use of a Bonded for RV purposes, and besides if you had an EMS monitoring the genset it would alarm were if Floating grrrrrrrrrrrr John T

I agree with Hems answer, in addition: 1) UNLIKE a standard genset, an Inverter does NOT depend on the engines RPM to arrive at 60 HZ AC power output, it provides ELECTRONIC 60 HZ 120 VAC so Frequency isn't depending on engine RPM. IE an Inverter provides more stable frequency... 2) Similar to Hems, when you're drawing low power, the engine can slow down, be more quiet, using less fuel. 3) When a big load comes on line an Inverter maintains 60 HZ while a standard may drop its frequency momentarily due to the RPM dragging down. NOTE Sure an Inverter has advantages butttttttttt they cost much more and Ive got by 50 years with Onan, Generac, Kohler, Cummis and Off Brand standard gensets with NEVER any problems operating so called sensitive electronics. Many low power elec devices use their own built in AC to lower voltage DC conversion circuits and minor AC power problems dont really affect them all that much....... A standard true 120/240, 4000 or more watts, with a 3 Pole 4 Wire Grounding 120/240 Receptacle (30 or 50 Amps) should run BOTH AC's no problem and likely NOT harm your electronic devices ??? YOUR MONEY YOUR CHOICE NONE OF OURS. Again, its my OPINION Yamaha and Honda or Cummins Onan (what I own) are good brands (cost most) while Ive heard good about Champion and Predator etc etc . I suggest you purchase from a local established vendor like Home Depot or Lowes or ACE or Menards INSTEAD OF some unheard of brands sold on Amazon or E Bay JUST TRY AND GET WARRANTY OR REPAIRS if you buy one there GOOD LUCK with that lol PS You Tube has hundreds of genset reviews and they are all right, think so lol John T NOT a generator expert, see what else any here have to say regarding your concerns

You're most welcome, and thank YOU for the kind words. IT APPEARS YOU MAY NEED A COURSE CORRECTION FOR YOUR UNDERSTANDING You may NOT be as wrong as you think !!!!!!!!! NOTE a NEMA L14-30R is a 125/250 Volt rated Three Pole Four Wire Grounding Receptacle provided the source its connected ???? to IT CAN PROVIDE TWOOOOOOOOOOOO LEGS OF 120 (one for AC1 other AC2 just like a 50 Amp RV Park Pedestal just not as many amps per leg) IE it can work and does not necessarily defeat the purpose......You are correct it "can only handle 30 amps" HOWEVER thats two separate legs of 30 amps EACH provided the genset has such capacity ??? Its just NOT the capacity of a 50 Amp RV pedestal that has two legs but 50 Amps each A genset that's true 120/240 (two legs of 120, each 180 out of phase with the other) that uses a L14-30R Receptacle can likely power BOTH your RV AC's, as each only draws maybe 10 to 16 Amps yet you have 30 available on EACH leg... CAUTION NOTE the Amazon link Kirk was so kind to post above does NOT appear to be a 120/240 (120 leg only) yet it may well be fine if that suits your needs ONLY YOU CAN DECIDE THAT Im NOT commenting whatsoever on the quality or suitability of the genset link provided ONLY saying its NOT 120/240 SUMMARY iffffffffff you want to run TWO AC's with a single genset,,,,,,,,,,,, And be configured the same as an RV Park Power Pedestal with true 120/240 that has TWO legs of 120, one for each AC, each 180 out of phase with the other,,,,,,,,,,,,,You're probably looking at a minimum of 4000 watts maybe as large as 6000 or more (see whats out there),,,,,,,,,,And possibly equipped with a L14-30R 3 Pole 4 Wire Grounding Receptacle, or it may have other combinations, but a single would be much easier even if you need a 30 to 50 adapter to plug the RV into. I still recommend a Soft Start just in case your genset may be marginally sized, likely fine without if its a bigger unit. I still recommend an Inverter Generator RECOMENDATIONS: Im hesitant to recommend any certain brand let others do that. I WILL however advise you to look for A TRUE 120/240 genset,,,,,,,,,,At least 4000 Watts but it may take a 6000 or more to suit all your needs,,,,,,,,,,,,If it has the wattage capacity and is equipped with a L14-30R (in addition to other receptacles) that would be soooooooo easy to plug in a 50 Amp RV with only a single adapter (home made or manufactured). There remain LOTS of other options out there but Ive covered enough for now Thanks again Tule, great questions and good follow ups, Im glad to help, God Bless you and everyone here, good bunch of gents all polite and willing to help out yayyyyyyyyyy lol I trust Ive explained your technical requirements now you and/or others need to decide on what make n model I dont like to make other peoples decisions ....... John T Retired EE and 50 year RV owner