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Everything posted by oldjohnt

  1. NOR have I (seen that done in an RV, fused at BOTH DC ends). The correct method to provide overcurrent protection for the feeders FROM the Battery TO the Load (Inverter in this case) is, of course WELL DUH, at the energy/supply SOURCE, the Battery. Again, I would think that EITHER Monaco OR the Inverter installer should know that but maybe not lol ??? Is this an after market installation ??? If so and NOT overcurrent protected that lets Monaco off the hook, hard to believe they would run huge cables from a high energy battery supply source and NOT protect them !!!!!!!!!!! In addition, the Inverter (which when powered up its OUTPUT becomes an energy supply source for 120 VAC Loads) does supply current to its 120 VAC Loads, so those feeders need overcurrent protection. The Inverter (unless its a combination Inverter/Charger) doesn't supply energy TO the battery, it draws energy FROM the battery and the feeders need protected (at the battery) that run FROM the battery TO the Inverter. I haven't seen any RV (was a used dealer and saw hundreds) that used DC feeder protection at BOTH ends (Inverter and Battery) on the DC input cables, instead ONLY at the battery which is correct. Again if you cant find a fuse FROM the Battery TO the Inverter, I would definitely install one !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Subject to the battery energy storage capacity and cables there could be literally hundreds and more amps flowing for a short time until something opened and that can create tremendous heat and fire !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My answer is NO. UNLESS its a combination Inverter/Charger, energy flows FROM batteries (stored energy source) TO the Inverter, NOT FROM Inverter TO batteries, so overcurrent protection is ONLY required at the energy source IE the batteries. An Inverter does NOT store energy that can pump such out into the batteries, its a load. Sure, if a person felt compelled to have DC circuit feeder protection at BOTH ends (Inverter and batteries) it could be installed, but there's actually no engineering requirement nor have I seen or done so myself. Still to each their own its their RV and their choice !! Hope this helps, best wishes n God Bless, yall keep safe now John T (Long retired n rusty electrical engineer so no warranty, but believe the above still remains true)
  2. In order to properly protect feeder circuits supplied by the battery bank, the overcurrent protection device (fuse or breaker) needs located at the source of the energy/supply THE BATTERIES. If its at the load or far away now that leaves all those huge high current capable cables UNPROTECTED !!!!!!!!!!!! I would think Monaco is aware of that but ??????????????????? I'm sure you're already well aware of this, but the info may help some rookies out there. You can find a 300 amp (or whatever size is required) fuse or breaker so if ones not there or cant be found at the batteries Id sure be looking for one and adding it if it were mine. John T
  3. oldjohnt

    Onan 5500 Marquis Gold 36 Code

    Just going by the sound of the pump, I can about tell there's no fuel being pumped even if you hadn't removed the hose. Once they prime up the sound changes noticeably and gets harder and the frequency drops. That sound reminds me of NO GAS whatsoever. 1) Isn't there a fuel filter you can get to and check for it being clogged up??? That's my first suspect. 2) My next suspects is a hairline crack ( or worse maybe even broke open) in that rubber fuel line as any air leaks in the suction side makes the system inoperative. Similar a loose rubber or rubber to steel connection somewhere. 3) This is off base and NOT recommended but I knew this "dude" who removed the hose and blew some air through it which perhaps ???back flushed and cleaned the line and cleared the clog after which it primed up and worked HOWEVER that may just blow crud back into the tank to be picked up again later grrrrrrrrrrrrrr lol 4) I have removed the rubber hose and rigged up a line down into a gas can to see if the pump works then. If so but NOT when hooked up correctly the line or filter may be clogged or it may be open or there's a crack. 5) Sure a pump can go bad and not work even if it runs and the line is good and no cracks or opens, but I suspect and try all the above FIRST...….. 6) Of course there has to be a certain minimum level of gas in the tank or it cant pump any because the genset gas pick up tube is higher then the regular so the genny cant use up all the tanks fuel, most are around 1/8 to 1/4 tank at which time they cant pump gas to the genny. John T NOT a genny expert so no warranty but the above steps have helped me in the past, hopefully some gents have better ideas or things to try. For now Im stickin with a clogged filter or a line crack or open line or not enough gas in the tank.....
  4. oldjohnt

    Chevy Volt 48v batteries dead

    While Lithium technology and charging safety has improved over the past few years, charging and temperature and proper SOC is still relatively critical, so I personally wouldn't feel safe n comfy trying to experiment or revive a set of them, but its your RV and money and to each their own. John T NOT any Lithium expert by any means so no warranty
  5. oldjohnt

    LED lights rear of TT

    Of course, simple parallel wiring up to the new LED lights works DUH. HOWEVER how to find and route the new wires up top I can't say, it depends on your TT and it can be a real pain (drilling holes, grounds, waterproofing, routing) grrrrrrrrrrr. If you can find surface mount fixtures (tail and brake/turn) for up top, that and a hole is an easy start, but wire routing ????? I bought some combo (Tail and Brake/Turn) LED surface mount ovals on Flea bay with three wires (Ground, Tail, Brake/Turn) so all I needed was a hole in the middle for the wires which I mounted with Stainless Steel self drillers into the sheet metal. That being said, on some vehicles with old style bi metal heating type flashers (unlike modern electronic units) if you replace old incandescent (like say 1157) bulbs with LED they don't draw enough current to operate the flashers. If you do this I'd recommend you go ahead and replace ALL the old existing incandescent with LED's and you may or may not need new flashers. I buy my LED's on Flea Bay and bought my wireless rear view camera there (works great, a simple cheap one). It's one of those that mounts on top the license plate holder so I drilled a hole near the top center of my RV and mounted it there instead, but I had to run 12 volts to it while the up front screen powers via the cigarette lighter port. I mounted the screen on my rear view mirror which is also fine. Sorry no specific help as your TT dictates that. John T
  6. oldjohnt

    50 Amp RV Plug to 250V/30A (3 Wire) Dryer Plug

    Lou, even where the NEC allowed metallic conduit/raceway, with all the proper couplers and connectors (which amateurs and even some electricians NEVER used correctly if at all) as the Equipment GroundING Conductor, in all my years of engineering design I NEVER specified its use, but instead the Green wire conductors throughout even though it increased the cost. Of course, the mere absence of the Equipment Grounding Conductor system/path bond doesn't necessarily energize everything else at 120 Volts, while using the Ground as a Neutral can indeed make it a live current carrier with which I don't like my body in parallel with !!! I grew up in the old 2 wire system with NO green grounds and in those days they manufactured so called "Hot Chassis" radios where the metal chassis was bonded to one of the two incoming wires and they did NOT use polarized plugs, so the metal chassis had a 50 50 chance of being HOT YIKES although the radios had plastic outer cases. Likewise I ALWAYS specified grounding metal outlet boxes as well as the receptacles green grounding screw direct to the bare equipment grounding conductor versus relying on grounding bushings and the sort. Fun sparky chatting with you, I enjoy your postings. John T
  7. oldjohnt

    50 Amp RV Plug to 250V/30A (3 Wire) Dryer Plug

    In days gone by when incoming utility services were primarily buried conductive pipe, it was commonly used as a "Grounding Electrode" to which the Electrical Service Entrance Neutral (aka Grounded conductor) was bonded, but for several years now with so much plastic non conductive pipe its not adequate. If there's no suitable conductive underground utility piping, in our jurisdiction like many NEC compliant locations we utilized a "Made Electrode" by driving a copper rod into mother earth then testing it and if it didn't pass we moved over and drove a second. The code when I was practicing required Bonding to 'All Readily Available Grounding Electrodes' including such things as buried conductive utility piping, structural frame steel, foundation steel etc and finally driven ground rods. If the guy was getting shocked in the shower there had to be a voltage difference not getting grounded OUCH ………………….. So for the non sparkies YES proper buried conductive utility pipes can be used as a Grounding Electrode and bonded to the electrical service entrance Neutral, but they obviously CAN NOTTTTTTTTTT be used to carry normal return current !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Neutral is for normal return current, Equipment Ground is ONLY for fault current NEVER normal return !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's the reason later model appliances now for safety utilize separate Neutrals and Grounds UNLIKE older equipment when the Ground was scabbed and used for a Neutral or Neutral was used as Ground grrrrrrrrrrrrrr lol John T
  8. Yeah I know, many are NOT fans of Generac RV Generators, but that's what was in the RV I bought and works good EXCEPT for one problem which I want to ask about. Its a Generac 4 KW Model 4700. It starts fine, runs smooth and powers the AC or Microwave or coffer maker or hair dryer all fine, no black or blue smoke, no sputtering, no coughing, nice clean warm gray NON fouled spark plug BUT after maybe 30 minutes if running the rooftop AC IT SHUTS DOWN........No its NOT out of fuel, NO the ignition system is otherwise fine, ITS LIKE A SUDDEN SAFETY SHUT DOWN such as low oil pressure or low oil (full of fresh oil) and I suspect it may be a safety thermal shut down due to overheating ??????????? It ONLY shuts down after 30 mins of AC use, when its real hot outside, NEVER any other time and AC works fine plugged to shore power.......I have all other 120 VAC loads like fridge and charger etc OFF when I run the AC in extreme hot weather. If I wait maybe 15 to 20 mins it starts right up and repeats the cycle and eventually shuts down again. Anyone ever run across a faulty safety thermal limit switch that's opening although it shouldn't at wrong temperature ??? Think of reasons for overheating ?? Its clean and free underneath where the screen is where the fan circulates engine cooling air?? What you think is wrong or what should I try ???? When it happens its just like you hit the kill switch IT SHUTS DOWN grrrrrrrrrrr Guess I need to have my meter handy and locate any thermal or other safety limit switch (oil or overheating etc) and right when it shuts down see if its open !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sure I like Onans but this is what I'm stuck with lol. If I cant fix it I will deal with that when the time comes. John T
  9. oldjohnt

    50 Amp RV Plug to 250V/30A (3 Wire) Dryer Plug

    GREAT IDEA Congratulations...…….. By the way, a copper rod driven into the earth ESPECIALLY if ones not already there, is what's called in the NEC as I best recall, a "Made Electrode" and its a good safety measure to help protect against lightning and surges. In our jurisdiction that necessary and required earth grounding of the Neutral (usually via a No 4 soft copper wire to the grounding electrode(s), occurred near the weatherhead riser,,,,,,,,,,,,,,or in the meter base,,,,,,,,,or the main service entrance panelboard. Neutral Ground BONDING took place typically in the main service entrance panel. If they make ?????? and you can purchase some of the gray type UF direct burial rated 6/3 with Ground (that's 4 conductors) that will work or better yet place perhaps 4 THWN 6 gauge conductors (Red Black White Bare/Green) inside buried conduit out to the pedestal....If the distance is excessive and voltage drop becomes an issue upsize may be necessary. Its handy to have an RV park type of power pedestal that also has a 15 or 20 amp 120 volt GFCI receptacle for convenience use and, of course, circuit breakers. Its fun to spend your money lol Congratulations and thanks again for the feedback. John T
  10. oldjohnt

    50 Amp RV Plug to 250V/30A (3 Wire) Dryer Plug

    Thanks for the feedback, yes it helps when the OP keeps us informed and I for one appreciate it. If you help us we can better help you The picture you posted appears the third wire in that receptacle was connected to the White conductor, which if all's correct ????????????is Neutral instead of a Bare/Green Equipment GroundING Conductor as typical on a 240 Volt 2 Pole 3 Wire Grounding Receptacle. Of course (if that's indeed a Neutral) there's still no safety Equipment Grounding Conductor which is there solely to carry fault current and save a life and which is required for a 50 Amp RV IE YOURE STILL ONE CONDUCTOR SHORT its just NOT gonna work to correctly and safely supply a 50 amp RV. Again a 240 Volt 2 pole 3 wire grounding receptacle IF WIRED STANDARD AND CORRECT would have two Hots and Ground and could supply straight 240 volts for a tool or appliance that uses say 240 volt motors or heat strips etc plus has the safety third wire Ground. ALSO it looks like 30 amp 10 gauge wire but you need 6 gauge 50 amp 4 conductors for a 50 amp RV !!! If indeed the plumbing is metallic conductive and assuming its buried, it is a conductive current path to "Mother Earth" but SO WHAT ?? If it was incorrectly used as a live current carrying conductor (such as a Neutral) and if it was touched by a plumber, he is placing his body and heart in a parallel current path and it only takes like 0.030 to 0.050 amps to cause the heart to fibrillate WANNA TRY IT OR LET YOUR GRANDKIDS TOUCH IT ?????????????????????????? Ever notice the Neutral in your outlets and wiring IS INSULATED unlike the bare equipment ground hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm that's because its a live current carrier and if you touch it subject to other factors you can get shocked !!!!!!!!!! But you are touching the Bare/Green equipment grounding conductor if its bonded to the outer metal case/shell of a tool or appliance which can save your life !!!!!!!!!!!!!! NEUTRAL IS NOT SAME AS GROUND !!!!!!!!!! BUT if done correctly buried conductive pipes can be used as a Grounding Electrode to which the services incoming Neutral gets (along with other electrodes) bonded BUT ITS NOT CARRYING NORMAL RETURN CURRENT FROM A TOOL MAKING IT HAZARDOUS AS OUTLINED ABOVE Try as I may I'm not a good enough teacher to explain to non electricians the difference in Ground and Neutral grrrrrrrrrrrr my bad lol Neutral Ground BONDING is nottttttttttttttttt the same as Earth Grounding of the Neutral (HV Primary and LV Secondary) for lightning and surge suppression and to keep the grid at a common low voltage reference IE MOTHER EARTH But that's NOT bad against lay persons, if you haven't been trained in it and worked with it and the NEC most wouldn't understand it either. Hope this helps, I try my best but its impossible to put in a paragraph that which can take entire books and years to understand John T
  11. oldjohnt

    50 Amp RV Plug to 250V/30A (3 Wire) Dryer Plug

    No direction, that's a plan, just open, look see, and trace the wiring back to the panel and let us know. That being said iffffffffffffffff its a typical older 2 pole 3 wire grounding receptacle and iffffffffffffff it was wired correctly THE THIRD WIRE IS THE EQUIPMENT GROUNDING CONDUCTOR NOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT NEUTRAL. PS don't take my word for it, consult any trained professional electrician or engineer or the NEC and NOT what's posted here including yours truly (although I'm pretty sure I'm correct) So how to tell ?? Typically (if wired correct) the Equipment GroundING Conductor is Bare/Green Typically (if wired correct) Neutral is a white INSULATED conductor Trace the wire back to the panel and see if its connected to the Equipment Ground Buss or the Neutral Buss HOWEVER in many older main service entrance panels there's a single common Neutral/Ground Buss to which BOTH White Neutrals and Bare/Green Grounds are attached !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Because at the main service entrance panel Neutral is BONDED to Ground as the utility uses a BONDED not a Floating Neutral like some gensets. So it may be a panel with a single common buss or separate bonded with a cross tie bar Neutral and Ground busses... CAUTION BOTTOM LINE REGARDLESS if its a Neutral orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr a Ground ITS STILL NOT PROPER CORRECT AND SAFE NOR NEC APPROVED because for a 50 amp RV you need BOTH A NEUTRAL PLUSSSSSSSSSSSS A GROUND AND YOU NEED FOUR WIRES NOTTTTTTTTTT JUST THREE !!!!! There's just no safe proper and NEC approved method to power up a 50 amp RV with ONLY three wires PERIOD so it doesn't matter if that third wire is a Ground (which it is if wired correct) orrrrrrrrrrr a Neutral (which is NOT correct for a 2 pole 3 wire grounding receptacle) A persons RV and life safety is his or her own choice so do as you please but if my training and experience as an engineer of forty nine years and the NEC matters I have to go on record as advising NOT power a 50 amp RV with only three wires !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PS I don't consider there's disagreement among "techs and experts" because if they are actually EITHER they would agree a two pole 3 wire grounding receptacle (iffffffffffff wired correct that is) is connected to two hots and an equipment ground NOTTTTTT Neutral but hey if Billy Bob or Bubba not trained not electricians wired it there's no telling how they did it lol so NO ONE here can say for certain not having examined the wiring BUT THREE WIRES IS NOT ENOUGH REGARDLESS PS Noooooooooo PLEASE don't use a water pipe for Ground or Neutral, its neither !!!!!!!!!!! It's NOT not a safe proper or heaven forbid NEC approved Equipment Ground Conductor and its certainly NOT a safe or proper or NEC approved Neutral DUH. It can in certain situations be used as a Grounding Electrode...…..similar to driven copper rods or foundation steel etc. John T Retired Electrical Power Distribution Design Engineer but rusty and not up on current NEC so no warranty, wire as one pleases..
  12. oldjohnt

    50 Amp RV Plug to 250V/30A (3 Wire) Dryer Plug

    THATS CORRECT Darryl & Rita. It was the (often Bare/Green) Equipment GroundING Conductor NOTTTTTTTTT the Neutral. However, since its bonded to the Neutral at the Service Entrance it could (if so wired) carry return current and there actually exists 120 VAC between it and the Hots. That problem was later corrected by using four wires, Two Hots, Neutral, Equipment GROUND. Some equipment/appliances used straight 240 no 120, in which case Neutral wasn't needed so two Hots and Ground sufficed. AGAIN Neutral is notttttttttttttttttttt same as nor to be used as the Equipment GroundING Conductor (Dedicated fault current return path ONLY) and the Equipment GroundING Conductor is nottttttttttt the same as nor to be used as the Neutral. Neutral is insulated same as the hots DUH as its a live current carrying conductor !!!!!!!!!!!!! The EGC is often bare and is bonded to the outer conductive metallic frames of some tools and appliances WHICH YOU TOUCH !!!!!!!!!!! Based on my training and experience Id say there's a better chance there's NOT any proper ground return through any metallic (if used) plumbing pipe (But hey I'm rusty and have been wrong before and open minded and always willing to learn something new). In addition, you should NEVER use plumbing as a return current path to the panel, but instead the normal branch circuit NEUTRAL CONDUCTOR and the Equipment GroundING Conductor to carry Fault current. NOTE there may or may not be a bond between metallic home plumbing and the Neutral. The NEC when I practiced power distribution required bonding the Neutral to ALL READILY AVAILABLE GROUNDING ELECTRODES of which metallic pipes was one of such, but often it did NOT get bonded. REGARDLESS I suggest it never be used for conducting Neutral current, use the branch circuits Neutral and Ground instead......... John T rusty on the latest NEC but believe all this still holds true
  13. oldjohnt

    50 Amp RV Plug to 250V/30A (3 Wire) Dryer Plug

    FWIW here's another huge NOOOOOOOOOOO lol and FYI here's why A 50 amp two pole 3 wire grounding receptacle has: Two Hots, L1 & L2 and an Equipment Ground,,,,, It DOES NOT have a Neutral (aka Grounded Conductor) which is absolutely required and necessary to properly and safely achieve 120 VAC from L1 or L2 to Neutral......…The RV DOES NOT use 240, it uses two legs L1 & L2 each of 120 VAC Line to NEUTRAL (which the dryer plug lacks) A metallic house water pipe may under certain circumstances suffice as a "Grounding Electrode" to which the incoming service entrances Neutral might be bonded ( NEC bonds to all "readily available" Grounding Electrodes) HOWEVER it is certainly by no means to be used as a Neutral for conducting normal return current. Neutral (GrounDED Conductor) is NOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT the same as the Safety Equipment GroundING Conductor. Its purpose is for the dedicated return of FAULT CURRENT ONLY while the Neutral (Grounded Conductor) is to carry normal return current. NOTE a 50 amp 3 pole 4 wire grounding receptacle CAN BE MODIFIED for a 50 amp 120/240 volt RV use as it has Two Hots L1 & L2, Neutral, Equipment Ground IE 4 wires like the 50 amp RV system. To be safe and comply with the NEC NEVERRRRRRRRRRR use Ground for Neutral and NEVERRRRRRRRR use Neutral for Ground. Keep safe OlJohn T Longggggggggg retired n rusty power distribution design engineer.
  14. oldjohnt

    Joining 2 solar systems on 2 rigs

    H again noteven, I enjoyed your earlier questions hope you got help here?? Okay, there's obviously no problem having two independent systems, truck and trailer etc. and its the heart of your question as to what happens when you parallel them together ??? The size and solar capacity and charging system of each bank need not be matched, its that below that makes a difference. As in nature, systems seek balance, the same will occur when you suddenly join two battery banks, they will tend to equalize and the current flow depends on 1) The state of charge and difference in the two banks 2) The size, type and capacity of each bank 3) The size and distance of the interconnecting cables 4) The total resistance of all the cables and switches and connectors etc involved in the parallel connection. The lower SOC bank will draw down the higher,,,,,,,,The greater the difference in battery bank capacity and greater the difference in their respective SOC's THE GREATER THE INITIAL CURRENT SURGE/DRAW,,,,,,,, The bigger the cable and shorter the distance and the use of sufficient current rated connectors and switches is an advantage (less voltage drop and less resistance). That all being said I don't envision major problems, its not too much different then connecting a battery charger to a battery OTHER THEN depending on the amp hour and CCA rating of your battery bank(s) a huge battery bank has the capacity to deliver a lot more initial surge amps into a load then a modest sized battery charger, so sure, its a bit more risky then connecting a charger MORE STORED ENERGY CAPACITY IN A HUGE BATTERY BANK . I would use overcurrent protection and disconnects to avoid any long term catastrophic current draw DO THAT AT BOTH BANKS. I say go for it using big enough wire and quality connectors/relays/switches with adequate overcurrent protection. If the wiring is too small and one bank is way lower then the other, there can be significant current and overheating SUBJECT TO current and wire resistance. More resistance from small wiring may limit current,but it drops voltage and could overheat if there's enough current for long enough time !!! NOTE when designing a system I prefer ALL batteries be the same type and brand and design and rating and age etc etc etc and Id still like that so each system is the same, however, yours is not quite the same situation so you can get by. John T Electrical Engineer but so longgggggggggggg retired n rusty NO WARRANTY !!!!!!!!!!!!!
  15. So, I have this 4 KW RV generator enclosed in a steel shell much of which has some sort of insulation or noise damping fabric inside, but Id like to quiet the generator even more if possible. Ventilation and heat transfer takes place using a fan and shroud with screen mesh out the bottom, so I don't envision any heat transfer problem if I were to add yet more cover over the outer metal case. WHAT KIND OF MATERIAL OR INSULATION OR SOUND DAMPING MIGHT I ATTACH TO THE OUTER SHELL TO REDUCE NOISE???????????? The muffler looks good and seems to work, I'm just looking for additional sound reduction. I was thinking the 1/2 (has like aluminum foil on one side) or even 1 inch Styrofoam house insulation glued to the gennys outer metal case and maybe some on the lift up hatch door. It's protected from weather for the most part being under the RV aside from road dust and rain splash so Id think a product that could stand the outdoors will work, but not sure how well house Styrofoam insulation would stand up. They surely make some sort of insulation or noise damping material I could stick on the generators outer metal case?????????? John T
  16. oldjohnt

    battery level

    Similar to Yarome the first thing I would (maybe AFTER first insuring the electrolyte level is above the plates???, if NOT fill to correct level with distilled water then let her charge up a long time n see what happens???) do is take the battery to a shop for a true load test. FYI If you have access to a volt meter, a good full charged lead acid battery stabilized at rest (IE no chargers or loads for say 30 minutes) should read around 12.6 volts subject to temperature. Then when plugged in a good working Converter/Charger should raise it to at least 13 and up to near 14 or so subject to battery and charger. A single light turned on shouldn't cause much if any battery voltage drop at all. if it does, the battery is shot or not charged or there's a bad/loose/corroded/resistive connection or connections. Check the battery and terminals and cables for loose or corroded or ratty looking connections and remove clean n wire brush n re attach may help. Check electrolyte levels, have battery load tested, check battery voltage at rest and stabilized (12.6??) then check battery voltage when converter/charger is operating (13 to 14), check alllllllllllll connections and battery post and cables etc PS FWIW I agree with Yarome, those factory, especially older, LED indicators are practically useless, stick a volt meter right on the battery John T
  17. noteven good question I think I'm pretty well in Al's camp on this one. I have used 3 way fridges in the past and provided I ALREADY HAD an Inverter set up of adequate size and a sufficient battery bank and charging system/capacity, Id operate on 120 VAC versus DC but prefer LP whenever possible to conserve electricity. SURE when driving a good alternator and battery can provide 10 amps of extra DC to power the fridge on DC and SURE there may be 10% Inverter losses, but if I already was using an Inverter anyway I just used 120 VAC to run the fridge PERSONAL CHOICE EITHER WILL OF COURSE WORK . I agree if you pulled say 10 stored energy battery amps for say 12 hours of a day and weren't replenishing them, that's 120 battery amp hours meaning you need a minimum of 240 lead acid battery amp hour capacity. Now, if you used solar charging and had say 200 watts of panels (use say 15.87 amps at 13 charging volts) and perhaps 6 good sun hours per day (6 x 15.87 = 95 amp hours) that's gonna crowd your system. A good MINIMUM estimate I agree with Al would be 400 solar watts and 450 battery amp hours (like say four Trojan T-105's). I run an extra 120 VAC dorm aux fridge 24/7 and a CPAP all night off an Inverter and "got by" dry camping with 450 battery amp hours and 470 solar watts but now do soooooooooooo much better with 950 soar watts as I may camp under a total shade canopy or it might rain days at a time yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy NOTE still any solar is good solar and NONE of the above figures are accurate but ONLY an approximation so don't anyone have a calf, I'm ONLY saying for dry camping Id prefer 400 solar watts and 450 battery amp hours to power a fridge that drew 10 DC amps !!!!!!!!!!!! John T
  18. Once you have checked all the high current 12 Volt and grounds and battery cable type of connections I would next suspect all the low current (maybe 14 gauge and even smaller) control plugs and connectors as I have often seen them get loose and/or dirty and corroded. Some have a factory white looking anti oxidant grease coating. Even if the major high current cables and connections are good (yours may well be) it don't take much of a faulty control connection to cause your problem. John T
  19. oldjohnt

    EMS & Inverter

    I agree with jc, powering an entire RV with an Inverter isn't how I would configure it. Its possible provided the user either shuts breakers off or just doesn't use high energy appliances. Another option is a sub panel and Transfer Switch so when connected to shore power sub panel fed loads are thus served, but if not on shore power the battery powered inverter feeds those lighter loads. Or a person could use a hybrid inverter. Regardless an EMS could still somehow be configured (transfer switches, sub panels, relays etc etc) to protect any and all energy sources be it Utility or Genset or Inverter, however as I mentioned above If I were using a quality PSW Inverter I am far less worried about the need for EMS protection. There's also less worry about EMS protection when connected to a quality Inverter type Genset but no harm if protected as we discussed above. There are numerous options and configurations to do all this, the simplest being conveniently located Inverter ONLY fed receptacles followed by a sub panel and transfer switch to select from Utility or Inverter and if one doesn't insist upon EMS protection when using the Inverter its easier. I have seen Inverters that had a receptacle attached so when dry camping the user just plugged the RV power cord into the inverter receptacle and shut off high amp breakers (or didn't use those appliances) and if an EMS was wired after the cord and before the panel Utility or Inverter sources are protected. Just too many choices and options to carry this on and on lol but I have found the more bells n whistles and more "automatic" transfers and switches and relays the more to go wrong. KEEP IT SIMPLE and less automatic is my choice, but to each their own. John T
  20. oldjohnt

    EMS & Inverter

    However, Al posted: Since Al is NOT using any sub panel, an EMS feeding his "panel" (provided after transfer switch between it and the panel) WILL PROTECT whatever energy sources (Utility or Genset) are in use...……… Al, to keep it simple and NOT confuse or over think it assuming your configuration is as posted: The Transfer Switch selects/transfers between two alternate energy INPUTS, Utility and Generator The Transfer Switch OUTPUT feeds your main AC distribution panel (you posted there's no sub panel) After the Transfer Switch OUTPUT and between it and the panel hard wire an EMS That way EITHER energy source UTILITY or GENERATOR is being monitored !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and you're protected. And again I don't believe an EMS looks for an "earth ground" as posted above, but instead a Neutral/Ground Bond and will still work REGARDLESS if there's an "earth ground" or not. HOWEVER as the EMS is indeed looking for a Neutral/Ground Bond, if your genset lacks that such needs to be corrected... Easy and simple as that PROVIDED AND SUBJECT TO there's no sub panel,,,,,,,,,,your transfer switch selects from Utility or Genset,,,,,,,,,,,,your EMS is installed after Transfer Switch and before panel. In the event you use a different configuration (as quite possible) let me know and I will provide you an update. There are different possibilities and configurations that can still work you know and the above is ONLY for this one particular configuration. Often an "Inverter" feeds a smaller sub panel to power up lighter loads and NOT an entire RV like the utility (or big generator) is capable of doing. A larger Generator (Inverter style or non Inverter style) can serve an entire RV while a smaller Inverter is used on low power electronics etc. If you intend to use BOTH a battery bank fed Inverter for small loads and a big whole house capable Genset just remember all the above is in reference to Genset and Utility and Transfer Switch and an EMS. I have used a battery powered Inverter by placing dedicated convenient Inverter fed ONLY receptacles around the RV into which I could plug small electronics such as chargers and computers and TV etc so no transfer switch or sub panel was required, but its also possible to use a sub panel and transfer arrangement. I have never worried about the need for an EMS when powering small electronics off a quality PSW Inverter. I consider FIRST the Utility and second a Genset where EMS is more critical. John T
  21. oldjohnt

    EMS & Inverter

    Al, here's more information for you: 1) Some (NOT all) Gensets use a FLOATING NEUTRAL instead of a BONDED NEUTRAL like the Utility, SOOOOOOOO if such were the case the EMS would throw an error code. 2) Its easy to create your own NEUTRAL/GROUND BOND if necessary so the EMS recognizes it and all works fine. 3) NOT ALL "Inverters" produce a Pure Sine Wave, some cheaper units produce a "Modified Sine Wave" but any good quality unit is PSW. You cited a Honda EU2000i right?? Its a quality Inverter/Generator and I believe produces a PSW BUT NOT SURE NO SPECS HERE 4) Far as I know an EMS IS NOT monitoring or cares if there is any "earth ground". What it monitors and will throw an error code if not present is the lack of a Neutral/Ground BOND. IE if the genset were a Floating Neutral it throws an error code REGARDLESS IF THERES ANY "EARTH GROUND" OR NOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its not measuring or monitoring or protecting against the presence or lack thereof with respect to any "earth ground" FAR AS I KNOW THAT IS, NO WARRANTY 5) Subject to portable genset use, in cases its best NOT to use any "earth ground" especially on construction sites. When using a construction site portable genset OSHA warns AGAINST earth grounding !!!!!!!!!!!! although a Neutral Ground BOND can still be utilized. NOTE Neutral/Ground Bonding is nottttttttttttttttt the same as "Earth Grounding" yet many non sparkies or non electricians confuse that issue. Again I don't think an EMS looks for any "earth ground" but I don't HAVE ALL SPECS AND CANT SAY FOR SURE SO NOOOOOOOOOOOO WARRANTY If the EMS is just before your AC distribution Panel it will monitor and protect whichever energy sources you use, be it the Utility or your own Genset or Inverter etc. John T
  22. oldjohnt


    While such a noise and result could be due to a tripped breaker or GFCI, I've seen a loose/burned/resistive connection make an arc and noise yielding the same result, so check breakers and connections for evidence of heat and burning. John T
  23. oldjohnt

    EMS & Inverter

    Al I agree a hard wired EMS is the way to go as its 1) Out of the weather, 2) Less likely to be stolen 3) Less mechanical plugs and outlets with their inherent risk of a loose/burned/resistive connection. 1) While there's less need of an EMS when coupled to an Inverter versus if hooked to Utility power, it wont hurt so go ahead and use it. 2) I wouldn't under normal conditions expect any damage. 3) YES an Inverter Generator produces a "PSW" but same as 1 above, an EMS can still offer a degree of prevention in case the genest develops a problem. John T
  24. oldjohnt

    Battery/Electricity issue

    Michelle, from what you posted I'm assuming its a 30 amp RV with one rooftop AC unit correct ??? If so and the AC and ALL other 120 VAC appliances (coffee, hair dryer, microwave, all outlets etc) are working right, I'ma thinking your 120 VAC supply is wired correct and adequate but cant say for sure not being there. Any GFCI receptacles that need reset????? Ifffffffffffff ??? all above is working correct and its ONLY your battery isn't being charged, a few concerns are as follows: 1) Is the converter/charger getting its 120 VAC input ??? Check to see if a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker (powering converter/charger) in your 120 VAC distribution panel is tripped?? See if there's any blown fuses or resets near the charger that may be open/blown??? 2) There needs to be a good solid connection FROM the Converter/Charger DC output TO your battery. MAYBE A WRE CAME LOOSE OR BROKE ?? 3) Insure there's no DC output circuit breaker (maybe a reset button) on the Converter/Charger that's tripped?? Are there any ON pilot lamps on the Charger showing ?? Any red push button looking resets?? 4) I have seen in line glass or blade type automotive fuses in the wire from charger to battery be blown so look for any blown fuses near the battery or the chargers DC output. 5) Battery voltage at rest and stabilized if charged should be near 12.6 volts but if hooked to a good working connected charger it should rise to the 13 to 14 volt or so range, if not shes NOT charging but DUH you already know that lol........... Keep it simple, insure 120 VAC to RV and charger INPUT,,,,,,,,,,check for tripped 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker in your AC distribution panel,,,,,,,,,,,,,,check for blown fuses or tripped breakers on or near charger or near battery and for bad wiring connections John T
  25. Dave, sounds good. The more fancy bells n whistles an RV has the more things to go wrong lol KISS. As I posted earlier if that RV parks latest more competent electrician did his job and you have now eliminated a potential problem, things may be okay now. For 47 consecutive years as an RV owner I've always managed to get by rolling up the cord myself lol John T