Jump to content

oldjohnt

Validated Members
  • Content count

    1,204
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by oldjohnt

  1. Anyone know what temperature the "cold" air being discharged out of a 2006 Duo Therm by Dometic "Brisk Air" non ducted AC should be ??? Mine doesnt "seem" cold enough so I placed a thermometer direct in front of it, yet (Yes the compressor is engaged and running full time) after 30 minutes its still around 61 degrees which I "think" isn't cold enough. NOTE this isn't any exact or perfect or scientific test, simply a thermometer one inch out of the discharge direct in its air flow, but of course the RV interior ambient conditions still cause an influence I'm sure. If I recall in automotive AC systems they discharge air in the 40+ degree range. Thanks in advance John T
  2. oldjohnt

    Rooftop AC Discharge Temp

    Yep, I considered all that and both coils are clean n free. Thanks John T
  3. oldjohnt

    Rooftop AC Discharge Temp

    I tested mine a long time yesterday and 61.2 was the lowest it ever got, 55 (if physically and mechanically possible) would be better.............. Again THANKS to all John T
  4. oldjohnt

    Rooftop AC Discharge Temp

    THANKS GANG, Wellllllllllll its 90 outside and if my discharge air is 60 MAYBE IF IT AINT BROKE I WONT FIX IT !!!! John T
  5. In addition to the regular LP/Electric RV fridge I run a second 120 VAC Compressor Fridge which isn't necessarily one of the latest super energy efficient or specialty units. Its powered by my PSW Inverter and house battery bank being charged usually off solar and/or the truck engines alternator if/when rarely necessary driving, so even if its not as efficient as some models above, it doesn't bother me nor cause any undue or excessive load even when dry camping indefinitely.. HOWEVER I still like having the regular LP Gas/Electric fridge and wouldn't be without one for all the options/choices (LP orrrrrrrrrrr Electric) and convenience it affords IE the best of BOTH worlds. To each their own John T
  6. oldjohnt

    Tire age

    I'm pretty much in the 5/6 year MAX camp to change RV tires REGARDLESS of tread or checking/cracking. What risk of life are you willing to accept ??? On the toad ifffffffffff theres no cracking or checking or obvious problems I might stretch that to 6/7 max. I think 3 years is over the top even if tire retailers may push it lol One has to be careful when buying tires. I have seen them roll out of storage to your vehicle but the DOT label showed them different years of manufacture !!!!!!!! Be safe out there John T
  7. oldjohnt

    Genny Size

    Funtimes, you started a good discussion: I see a bunch of 3 KW Gensets kept in the pickup bed. That's a good choice/method for trailer hitch or fifth wheelers and "most" 3 KW units will power your rooftop AC PLUS you don't have the hassle and expense of packing TWO smaller gensets and having to run BOTH and connect them in parallel. SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO which one for the lowest price ???? For my own use and if noise is a concern and if you don't want to be the hated RVer in the dry camp area 1) LOOK AT NOISE LEVELS when making your decision 2) Look at service and parts and reliability and consider some Big Box or Harbor Freight units might be tough to get serviced or find parts for. Click here for some reviews: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rv+generators+for+travel+trailers As far as noise levels, if you go with a louder genset there are methods to reduced noise. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=generator+noise+reduction As the old saying goes "you get what you pay for" but in my many years of camping all over the US and talking and visiting with Genset owners, those with the better quality quieter units were more likely to be "happy campers" However, I'm like many who choose to save bucks when I can and if I were to go with a "louder" unit I would definitely spend a few more bucks on noise reduction. There are a bunch of dry campers out there (seen them all over the US) who use Gensets, and yes even more and more to power their AC. I'm like Yarome, if its too hot I just go to a higher elevation and/or head North, but many short timers don't have that option so its Genset City lol. Do your homework then make an informed decision that suits YOU John T Still Full Timing and Homeless but am buying a home I need to get in shape before heading out again yayyyyyy
  8. oldjohnt

    Genny Size

    When it gets HOT like up in the nineties I see a bunch of dry campers (I dry camp a lot all over the US) pulling out their Generators big time trying to run an AC to keep cool, some successful, some NOT. I agree with Yarome, a 2000 Watt is the LEAST I would consider. If done right "some" of them can run "some" AC units while many simply can NOT, while most (but bigger n heavier) 3000 watt gensets have no problem . You Tube is full of tests with dudes trying to run an AC using different brands and sizes of gensets. The addition of an electrical device called a "Soft Start" or "Hard Start Capacitor" greatly increases the chance of starting an AC when using a marginally sized Genset. https://www.bing.com/search?q=RV+ac+soft+start&src=IE-SearchBox&FORM=IESR3A&pc=EUPP_UE04 Honda came out with a 2200 Watt which is just enough bigger then their old 2000 to possibly make a difference. If I was going to buy one in that size range I would definitely buy an Inverter Generator and likely the slightly bigger 2200 watt. They are just so much lighter n smaller then a 3000, and if it doesn't start the AC, addition of a Soft Start might just get the job done. If you care about noise levels and neighbors Id definitely buy a quality QUIET Inverter Generator like say Honda or Yamaha or the many others but NOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT a screaming loud loud loud vibrating Harbor Freight or Big Box Store cheap unit grrrrrrrrrrrr. A 2200 Watt, Inverter Generator would be my choice (lighter and more portable) and if it doesn't do the job add a Soft Start. Its your money, your RV, and YOUR choice. John T
  9. oldjohnt

    Generac Generator Shuts down

    Jim, good question, here is some info FYI. 1) If you're talking straight Watts and as Power = V x I, 4000 watts at 120 volts = 33.33 Amps. 3600 Watts = 30 Amps 3600/120. HOWEVER that's nowhere near the "rest of the story" You may see KW and you may see KVA ratings on some equipment 2) As you well know the labeled ratings may or may not be hyped up a bit (surely not lol) plus there's the "Continuous" and "Surge" ratings 3) A motor might temporarily draw 5 to 6 times its normal running current at startup which is why an x rated genset might not start an AC even if it could supply the normal running current. IE they can RUN an AC but they just cant START IT LOL. That's where an AC Soft Start Unit like discussed on here recently might allow a certain sized genset to start and run an AC which it couldn't otherwise. 4) KW is NOT the same as KVA. KVA is "Apparent Power" while KW is Actual or Real Power available to do work. 5) KW = KVA x Power Factor. In a pure Resistive circuit the PF is Unity one so KW and KVA are the same there. 6) In a high inductive load such as a motor (like the AC unit) current lags the voltage and you get a lousy less then one Power Factor which is why power factor correction capacitors (current leads the voltage) are added to counteract the inductance and improve the power factor. ANHYWHO my Genset starts n runs my AC (like fine for 30 minutes) if I can stop it from overheating or repair any inaccurate thermal or pressure switches causing it to shut down ????????????? Maybe a 293 degree (versus 277 or 284) thermal will allow it to keep running??? As noted an "Oil Cooler" perhaps???? Best wishes John T
  10. Yeah I know, many are NOT fans of Generac RV Generators, but that's what was in the RV I bought and works good EXCEPT for one problem which I want to ask about. Its a Generac 4 KW Model 4700. It starts fine, runs smooth and powers the AC or Microwave or coffer maker or hair dryer all fine, no black or blue smoke, no sputtering, no coughing, nice clean warm gray NON fouled spark plug BUT after maybe 30 minutes if running the rooftop AC IT SHUTS DOWN........No its NOT out of fuel, NO the ignition system is otherwise fine, ITS LIKE A SUDDEN SAFETY SHUT DOWN such as low oil pressure or low oil (full of fresh oil) and I suspect it may be a safety thermal shut down due to overheating ??????????? It ONLY shuts down after 30 mins of AC use, when its real hot outside, NEVER any other time and AC works fine plugged to shore power.......I have all other 120 VAC loads like fridge and charger etc OFF when I run the AC in extreme hot weather. If I wait maybe 15 to 20 mins it starts right up and repeats the cycle and eventually shuts down again. Anyone ever run across a faulty safety thermal limit switch that's opening although it shouldn't at wrong temperature ??? Think of reasons for overheating ?? Its clean and free underneath where the screen is where the fan circulates engine cooling air?? What you think is wrong or what should I try ???? When it happens its just like you hit the kill switch IT SHUTS DOWN grrrrrrrrrrr Guess I need to have my meter handy and locate any thermal or other safety limit switch (oil or overheating etc) and right when it shuts down see if its open !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sure I like Onans but this is what I'm stuck with lol. If I cant fix it I will deal with that when the time comes. John T
  11. oldjohnt

    Generac Generator Shuts down

    UPDATE: I just found a 293 Degree Generac Thermal Switch for my Make Model and Serial Number Genset which I'm ordering Monday from whichever supplier has one in stock. I'm going to go ahead and buy a new Oil Pressure Switch (its in series with thermal right by the oil filter) and replace both and change the oil soon as the parts arrive. I will let yall know if that fixes the premature shut down...Perhaps as suggested an "Oil Cooler" ???? THANKS AGAIN TO YALL John T
  12. oldjohnt

    Generac Generator Shuts down

    THANKS EVERYONE, I just heard from a retired small Generator repair friend and much of what he said mirrors all of you gents great advice and my own suspicions.......He said he had seen thermal switches cause shut down even though actual conditions didn't warrant it. One switch he found was Part number G075281, Temp 284 F LIKE YAROME MENTIONED Oil was recently changed to Castrol Magnatec Full Synthetic of the viscosity labeled on Genset. Has a new (about 1 year ago) carb and air filter. I tried it with the side compartment door open and it made NO difference. I haven't yet experimented or looked at any fuel mixture adjustment on the recently installed carb. I DO KNOW it could possibly be a tad lean ??? its certainly NOT over rich, she NEVER black smokes nor exhibits any over rich gas odor and plug is a nice warm gray color PLUS she never stalls or coughs when the AC compressor kicks in. I might see if I can richen it 1/4 turn if it has such an adjustment that is ??? MY PLAN after all you guys and the retired gents advice is : I am going to order that new 284 Degree switch,,,,,,,,Change oil with Synthetic again maybe a different brand this time,,,,,,,,,clean air filter,,,,,,,,,,,,,look into a slight fuel richening,,,,,,,,,,,,,,If all that fails do the extra fan thing which sounds like a good idea to me THANKS EVERYONE John T
  13. oldjohnt

    Windshield leaking

    I tried several home repairs (gooey sticky messy unsightly lol) over the years which have "sealed" and sure in an emergency you can do whatever is necessary, but you can't beat a quality professional remove reseal and reinstall in my opinion. John T
  14. I currently have two Vortex II fans that do a "decent" job of cooling when dry camping. I doubt they move as much air versus the bigger more expensive fans WELL DUH. While the full vent covers up top are great to keep rain out yet the fans still function, in my experience they restrict air flow versus if no cover is there, another WELL DUH. In my way of thinking an "apples to apples" comparison for comparing one fan to another would be THE CFM RATING. Its how many CFM of air the fan exhausts from the RV to the exterior that matters. My fear of an expensive fan with all the bells n whistles and remote control and automatic open or close and rain sensors etc etc is some or all will eventually stop working grrrrrrrrrrrrrr lol. Your RV Your money Your choice John T
  15. oldjohnt

    240v to 120v transformer question

    Hey there Al, good questions, let me try this again..........I think you're on the right page and get this, but for any who don't, here goes............. A single load wire (L1) in a standard 120/240 volt single phase three wire system, with Hots L1 & L2, Neutral and Ground, WOULD MEASURE 120 L1 (or L2) to Neutral,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Would measure 120 L1 (or L2) to Ground,,,,,,,,,,,,but the 240 is ONLY across L1 & L2 (but they didn't run an L2 right???). It's NOTTTTTTT 240 from L1 to Ground or Neutral, its only 120. You need L1 and L2 for 240 !!!!!!!!!!! Also the safety equipment grounding conductor is ONLY for fault current NEVER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! normal return current. Ifffffffffffff they ran a single load wire (L1),,,,,,,,,,a single Neutral wire and a ground wire, they can ONLY get 120 from that L1 to Neutral... A typical 240 ONLY circuit would have THREE WIRES, Two Hots L1 & L2, and a Ground NO NEUTRAL REQUIRED FOR 240 ONLY. A typical 120 ONLY circuit would also have THREE wires, One Hot (L1 or L2), One Neutral, One Ground If they run a FOUR wire circuit L1,,,,,L2,,,,,,,Neutral,,,,,,Ground its possible to get 120 or 240 It is possible to use a SINGLE Neutral for BOTH L1 & L2 120 volt circuits. The pole or pad mounted transformer used for residential 120/240 volt single phase three wire LV secondary service IS 240 VOLTS END TO END ACROSS IT. The way you get TWO legs of only 1/2 half that (120) is to tap that transformer winding in the center. That center tap point (Neutral) is attached to a No 4 bare coper wire which runs down the pole to a ground rod. Then 3 wires, L1 L2 Neutral, are ran to the homes main panel where the Neutral is again (there or riser etc) attached to all readily available Grounding Electrodes. Typically in the main distribution panel (but NEVER again downstream) the Neutral Buss is BONDED to the safety Equipment Ground Buss. From there on out downstream you carry L1 OR L2 plus Neutral and Ground for 120 branch circuits or L1 & L2 and Ground for 240 circuits. That help any at all lol Fun chat yall, hope this helps but absent the schematic I just cant say from here what is going on. I can ONLY explain the basic theory John T
  16. oldjohnt

    240v to 120v transformer question

    Glenn, All this talk about "one wire" ??? This mean TWO conductors inside a single jacket (could be called a "wire") or ONLY a single conductor or just what?? Obviously in a 120/240 volt single phase three wire service the 240 VAC exists across TWO wires, L1 & L2, voltage is the potential difference between TWO wires/terminals/lugs wherever. Single wire Neutral versus one for each 120 VAC leg ??? see below. There's no 240 Volt potential difference on ONE WIRE ALONE !!! Its 240 volts POTENTIAL DIFFERENCE from one wire to another. That being said, there exist what are called in the trade Multi Wire Branch Circuits. That's where ONE Neutral WIRE serves as the return current path for TWO Hots, L1 & L2. IE you could have a 240 volt L1 & L2 circuit with a single Neutral serving BOTH L1 & L2 individual 120 VAC legs. 120 L1 or L2 to Neutral but 240 VAC L1 to L2. While Multi Wire Branch Circuits are NEC approved it was never my first choice especially where heavy inductive loads (say a motor or compressor etc) or other inductive loads like ballasted fluorescent lighting or transformer power supplies etc are in use as its possible to overheat the single Neutral. I'm confident you are on the right track and will get this dern thing figured out Best wishes, take care do it safe. John T
  17. oldjohnt

    240v to 120v transformer question

    Glenn, it sounds like you're coming around and have this under control, but for those who may not I will offer a few bits of information: 1) Of course if for whatever reason a person wanted to use a transformer to convert 240 VAC Single Phase to 120 VAC Single Phase that's fairly simple. In addition to the In and Out Voltages you need to size the transformer to handle the Watts or Volt Amps the unit will draw. Voltage and Power ratings and selections are straight forward and simple. 2) The next consideration would be whether to use an Isolation Transformer orrrrrrrrrrrr or an Auto Transformer ??? 3) The next consideration would be how to configure the transformers output. Floating, Bonded, Separate Derived Source etc. 4) Next if you want to spend more money but only if its a necessity, you may need to consider a ferro resonant transformer that stores energy in its magnetic field which can help reduced brownout (excessive low voltage) when for example a compressor starts up. As I'm sure you're already well aware, typical home residential electrical service is 120/240 volt single phase three wire in which you have two legs of 120 VAC (Either leg with respect to Neutral) plus 240 VAC Single Phase L1 to L2. A typical 240 VAC circuit would consist of three wires, Two Hots L1 & L2 plus a Safety Equipment Grounding conductor. A Typical 120 VAC circuit would also consist of three wires, One Hot, One Neutral, One Equipment Grounding Conductor Best wishes John T
  18. oldjohnt

    Oman 8k quietsiesel error code 38

    The last Onan circuit control board I purchased was like over five hundred dollars and there were NO Dinosaur Electronics or other manufacturers or rebuilders or repair shops that would repair or replace them PERIOD and that was AFTER I tried all the external troubleshooting like breakers or switches or sensors or fuel related issues grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr HOPEFULLY Maybe the Onan troubleshooting procedures can get you by much cheaper. I ran Onan's of all types and sizes for yearsssssssssss and could usually keep them going myself UNTIL I experienced circuit board problems on the later and new generation units. Give me the old two cylinder MUCH QUITER and smoother 1800 RPM units in the smaller 4 KW gas application. Good luck let us know how it turns out John T
  19. oldjohnt

    Adding Water to Lead Acid Batteries

    You did good Kevin, CONGRATULATIONS, we appreciate the feedback............... Batteries FULL charged then floated 12 hours,,,,,,,,,,,,Four hours to rest and stabilize,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then disconnected,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then wait yet another hour for more rest and stabilization,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then add water,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then back on If the Battery web sites or contributions above mean anything at all, that "should" allow for sufficient level to keep electrolyte above the plates yet not overfill ................. John T
  20. oldjohnt

    Adding Water to Lead Acid Batteries

    Great info Yarome. WOW This is getting deep and technical GOTTA LOVE IT (for us nerds and sparkies at least lol). Here's yet one more dose of advise and opinion regarding adding water I found at Arcon Batteries and Chargers Website. It appears to agree somewhat with Trojan, but that's mainly for the purpose of avoiding overfill NOT the end of or the whole story Yarome so well discussed IE each has pros and cons !!!! But I'm too lazy to check when not charged (mine don't get there often) as well as when charged LOL. However, it would be possible for me to check and add in a low charge state when dry camping which is early morning BEFORE my solar kicks in and AFTER my CPAP and vent fans or furnace and 120 VAC Inverter powered fridge ran all night IE I still have the option even if I might not exercise it.... http://www.arconequipment.com/article_0599.html Why does my battery overflow occasionally? It shouldn’t, but it will if it is overfilled. Keep in mind that the electrolyte level rises as the battery is charged. It is at its lowest level in the cell when the battery is discharged. It is common to add water to a battery before it is charged, but care must be taken to ensure that the fill level is appropriate considering this rise in electrolyte height. Batteries differ in the extent of this change in level, so it is difficult to make a blanket recommendation here. If the battery regularly overflows despite reasonable attention to proper level, a two-step process may be followed at those times a battery requires water: Before charging the battery, add just enough water so that a low liquid level is visible. After charging is complete, add enough water to bring the level up to the bottom of the vent opening barrel (usually about ¾ inch below the top of the cell). The above steps will prevent overflow. Step one ensures that the electrolyte level has not gone too low and exposed the plates to air for the charge cycle. Step two brings the level up to full height at a time (battery fully charged, electrolyte at highest point) when accidental overfilling would not be a problem. Back to me: Since my batteries are typically maintained at or near 100% SOC by early to mid morning at least (Solar or smart charger) and its not my practice to let them discharge very much, I'm stickin with my normal maintenance to add water if/as needed when they are pretty much full charged at rest stabilized and not under charge. If the article above is accurate (highest level when charged) that should result in levels that aren't so high overflow will happen, yet hopefully never drop bellow the plates...........BOTH of which are, as Yarome described, BAD !!! I enjoy the heck out of this techy stuff and I'm never too old to learn THANKS ALL John T
  21. oldjohnt

    Adding Water to Lead Acid Batteries

    Id guess Trojan has it right, they know a bit about batteries lol. Once a FLA battery is full charged setting there at rest stabilized with no bubbling or outgassing and thermal expansion has subsided, sounds to me like a darn good time to check water levels and at the proper level its above the plates, yet there's still sufficient room (around 1/8 inch if I recall correctly) for expansion WITHOUT any risk of overflow SURE WORKS FOR ME Trojan Rocks as far as I'm concerned..................That also agrees with what was taught at last weeks Escapees Escapade Seminars MUST BE RIGHT YA THINK ??????????? hope so GREAT fun and informative chat, a bunch of fine gents here John T
  22. oldjohnt

    Adding Water to Lead Acid Batteries

    Thanks for the great info Optimistic. I have Trojan FLA Batteries and my Smart 3/4 Stage Charger eventually full charges them and maintains them in the "Float" mode, so I turn it off,,,,,,,,,,, let the battery rest and stabilize so there's no bubbling, excess outgassing or further expansion,,,,,,,,,,,THEN ADD WATER TO PROPER LEVEL,,,,,,,,,,,then turn the charger back on SOUNDS LIKE A PLAN..............I'm sure adding water still "works" if everything isn't done EXACTLY this way, but I see no problem doing it as Trojan recommends... Thanks again for the info John T
  23. oldjohnt

    Adding Water to Lead Acid Batteries

    AMEN to that. In 47 consecutive years of RV ownership FWIW I definitely agree that flooded lead acid batteries used in them (I cant speak to submarine batteries, NO experience) be at rest, NOT under charge, THEN ADD WATER THEN TURN THE CHARGER ON. Works for me .....................Nor have I seen any evidence to the contrary...............If any exists I hope others will enlighten us all, I'm never too old to learn Fun and informative chat, thanks to all John T
  24. oldjohnt

    Adding Water to Lead Acid Batteries

    FWIW Looks like were on the "same page" John T
  25. oldjohnt

    Adding Water to Lead Acid Batteries

    Kevin, being under a light load isn't so bad BUT when under a heavy charge there's some bubbling and outgassing and expansion happening so I just prefer NOT to check or add water at that time. Its easy to be off the charger and wait some time and then add water which is my own personal preference BUT SURE ADDING WATER AT ANY TIME WILL STILL "WORK". I just attended Escapees Club 58th Escapade where I learned about one particular brand of water fill systems. They claimed their product had float type fill valves that shut down (no more water could be added) when there was something like (no warranty I may not have remembered their numbers) 1/8 inch between water and battery top vent area. They showed diagrams of proper water levels above the plates but still allowing enough free top air space to allow for expansion and bubbling and outgassing so as NOT to overflow out the top... IE they claimed (and I sure agree) too much water is a bad thing.......... As I said others may have different preferences and sure adding water isn't rocket science and can be done at most any time, but its just my preference and practice to be off charge,,, let the gas and levels and state of charge settle down and stabilize with no gassing and bubbling,,,, and the water/acid mixture be well blended AND THEN TOP OFF WATER IF NEEDED. If an RV owner believes its actually better to check and/or add water while under a charge that's their own choice, fine by me. John T
×