Jump to content


Validated Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About oldjohnt

  • Rank
    Major Contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    RV Travel, Antique Tractor Shows, Bluegrass Festivals, Snowbirding

Optional Fields

  • SKP#
  • Lifetime Member

Recent Profile Visitors

5,792 profile views
  1. oldjohnt

    wire nuts come loose?

    Again its often NOT the wire nuts but improper installation the problem. A problem I saw often when they were used to splice stranded to solid wire was the stranded got pushed down versus it and the wire nut and the solid all joining together !!!! IMPROPER INSTALLATION. If I were using this (solid to stranded) in a critical hard to get at high current vibration application Id consider twisting the wires together then soldering then apply the wire nut. Still have an extra wire loop for vibration and expansion/contraction protection. A splice like that done correctly should be near bulletproof. John T Long retired n rusty, things change so no warranty
  2. oldjohnt

    wire nuts come loose?

    Glenn, great question. In my professional life in the electrical industry (Power Distribution) it was my experience and observation that when such a failure occurred, IT WAS OFTEN "NOT" THE WIRE NUTS THEMSELVES BUT THEIR IMPROPER INSTALLATION. If installed PROPERLY I saw few failures. In the workshops and seminars and when we instructed our electricians and contractors we stressed for added mechanical strength there be a few extra wire turns outside the nuts themselves and where room allowed there be adequate slack and loops to allow for vibration and expansion/contraction. While typically not required a person could solder wires then then use wire nuts for added coverage, mechanical strength and protection, with tape to follow, but proper wire nut installation with added twists and expansion loops for vibration and expansion/contraction was all "usually" necessary...……. John T Longggggggggggg retired n rusty electrical engineer NOT up on the latest Codes and practices SO NO WARRANTY, things may have changed grrrrrrrrrrrrrr lol
  3. oldjohnt

    Techma toilet

    While this isn't to your question, it is related. Long term dry camping is something we do often, we only use our own bath facilities, so I wanted to maximize the amount of time before we had to dump our black tank. My solution was a Thetford Electra Magic 80 Marine Recirculating Toilet. The two of us in our small 29 ft. Class C can "go" from around say at least 9 up to 13+ days before we are "full of it" and have to dump lol . The difference being if were in a remote soil/sand/wooded area where the gray water from the bathroom lavatory sink can be discharged to the ground versus if it goes to the black tank. Best wishes John T Live now from Matagorda Bay Texas
  4. oldjohnt

    Converter as Charger

    Dewilso, I don't forsee any big problem using it as a "shop battery charger". After all its designed to take 120 VAC and charge/maintain a 12 VDC battery or supply loads RIGHT ??? HOWEVER in the event its a "dumb" non multi stage "smart" charger I would be hesitant to stick it on a battery and leave it unattended for hours on end as it could over charge a battery. Some of the early charger/converters were more of a fixed voltage power supply and could harm a battery if left on too long. I have an old one at home Ive used to charge batteries and it "worked" but it didn't have any regulation whatsoever. Good luck n best wishes John T Live dry camped in Magnolia Beach Texas headed to Matagorda Bay
  5. oldjohnt

    Checking Brake Fluid With A VOM Meter

    Just to clarfify something, the old brake fluid I spoke of (when I perform a flush n fill) that was discolored and contained some sort of visible "contaminants or foreign material" was that which came out at the wheel cylinders or calipers, not the up front reservoir. In addition to changing brake fluid (new/used vehicle and every few years thereafter) I also change coolant and flush n fill n change tranny fluid and filter around 50,000 or so miles. Id be surprised if EVERY manufacturers owners manual offered the very same suggestions when it comes to changing or never changing brake fluid, but due to over the year improved products and the "contaminants or foreign material" whatever it may or may not be, if harmless or not, I'm sticking with changing brake fluid along with coolant and tranny fluid etc. as part of periodic maintenance, but as always respect those who choose for whatever reason, scientifically justified or not, to change or never change any fluids anytime they wish lol Keep safe yall best wishes n God Bless John T Dry camped coming to you live from South Padre Island
  6. oldjohnt

    Checking Brake Fluid With A VOM Meter

    Hey, call me old fashion, call me a worry wart, call me a preventive maintenance nut, just don't call me late for supper lol But for me REGARDLESS of what any owners manual recommends,,,,,,,,REGARDLESS of what any voltage test indicates, anytime I buy a used vehicle and every few years of ownership thereafter I DRAIN AND FLUSH AND REFILL (then bleed of course) BRAKE FLUID and plan to continue to do so (I do likewise with coolant). I have changed it before and despite it being a closed system, and despite how well it may or may not be sealed THE OLD FLUID IS USUALLY DISCOLORED AND THERE APPEARS TO BE SOME SORT OF VISIBLE "CONTAMINATION" that I DO NOT see in the new fluid ??? even though I never had it analyzed. Heck it may be perfect or better then new, I don't really care as long as it is discolored and I can see some of what I describe, for lack of a better term "contamination", I'ma changing yayyyyyyyyyyy lol Ive NEVER had any problems doing that, owned RV's for 48 years... Now don't ask me to describe or analyze what I call "contamination" I'm saying the old never appears as clean and clear and totally free of "something" as does the new !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is it rust?? Is it moisture?? Is it foreign material?? Its for sure "something" noticeable to the eye...……... That's my story and Ima stickin to it lol but to each their own choices be it justified or not. It would be a boring world if all us RVers had the same opinions...…….. Old fashion preventive maintenance kinda guy John T
  7. oldjohnt

    Checking Brake Fluid With A VOM Meter

    While I don't doubt the basic science involved, it just seems to me there are soooooooooo many variables (not even talking about meter accuracy at those levels) involved its hard to place one single "number" on what volts accurately indicates what's acceptable or not, but hey I haven't studied this at all so heck it may be right on ?? When I buy an RV and intend to use it for my own travels I typically drain and flush the entire system and replace the brake fluid all together REGARDLESS of what any voltage test might indicate. Its not all that hard or expensive. But that's just me and in my DNA lol to each their own ……..If this method works for you hey go for it..... John T
  8. oldjohnt

    Audio system recommendation

    I was somewhat of an audiophile wayyyyyyyyyyy back in college (EE school at Purdue) with huge heavy high power KT88 power tube amps, Wharfedale super heavy sand packed wall speaker cabinets, tuned bass reflex, Fisher, McIntosh, Marantz and my hand wired Dynaco Stereo 70 etc etc but my big surprise is how the modern compact lightweight even plastic enclosed Bose wave speakers SOUND AS GOOD AS ALL MY HUGE HEAVY ANTIQUE EQUIPMENT LOL Due to such small and acoustic unfriendly space in an RV I don't see any super expensive high quality system as providing as much "bang for the buck" as compared to the benefits derived if located in a large well designed residential home entertainment center. My study of acoustics indicated the physics, size, shape, walls and floors etc WAS AS IMPORTANT OR MORE THEN THE EQUIPMENT ??? IE for my money and my own personal choice Id opt for a good Bose based system but as always to each their own preference budget and choices. What type of an audio system is about like asking what brand of oil one should use lol Take care yall John T
  9. oldjohnt

    Circuit Boards

    Dutch, I've also seen OEM boards last that long or even longer (RV owner since 1970) but typically when I replace one its with a Dinosaur of which so far I've never had any go bad KNOCK ON WOOD LOL Once years ago I called them for tech support on a Saturday and was informed I was speaking to the owner and he sure knew his stuff. After recently having to replace my Fridge circuit board the furnace up and quit and it turned out to be a faulty limit switch (RV dealer in Buda Texas had one) but I'm currently the proud owner of a spare furnace and hot water board just in case...BE PREPARED was my scout and still motto...…..but to each their own choices As always love sparky chatting with you John T
  10. oldjohnt

    Circuit Boards

    Vern, GOOD ADVICE, it just so happens I carry a small battery charger and I don't think I've ever needed it, HOWEVER I know at least three times neighboring RVers have had to borrow it or my jumper cables for their RV or golf carts lol Once we pulled into a rest stop and three cute young things (damsels in distress) approached the RV asking if we had a quart of oil??? They said we thought you might lol They said they heard a clicking noise and checked oil and it was low NOTTTTTT I checked it and there wasn't any at all showing on the stick. The girl said her dad warned her to keep oil checked ??? I poured in 2 quarts for them (started and had pressure and no noise whewwwwwwww) and it showed so I told them go to the first gas station and add more etc. They were quite appreciative and I was glad to help. Yo Dutch, I also found another new spare board but forget if its a universal type or just what in the heck it is. I need to check that out and then label the boxes for any new ones I buy. Its Dinosaur shopping I'm going...……... Thanks yall, take care John T
  11. oldjohnt

    Circuit Boards

    So a while back I'm dry camped and in bed and the lil woman says the alarm/caution light on the fridge is on. I crawl out and see it works on AC but not on gas so I connect the fridge to inverter and battery power and go to sleep. Next morning I troubleshoot and see the circuit board is the problem so I go to a deep buried parts location bin and to my surprise (forgot I had one) theres a brand new in the box Dinosaur replacement board woooooooo hooooooooooooo fixed the problem...….. MORAL OF THE STORY if a person carries a replacement circuit board and an ignitor tip for say his furnace, fridge and water heater he can so often cure many (not all) problems. Imagine being dry camped way out in the boonies and you need a new board or ignitor. First find a dealer and he probably does not have a board and has to order it grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I also found another board but forget if its the water heater or furnace. After this Im going to investigate and insure I have spare boards and ignitors for those three appliances. Sure those components may not be the problem but since it may be difficult and take time and driving to ever find one if needed I advise a person at least consider the idea of carrying spare parts. To each their own however...……. Take care be safe and be prepared Best wishes n God Bless yall John T Still in Austin Texas
  12. oldjohnt

    radiant heat for floors

    WOW Glenn, 10 x 350 or 3500 Watts now that's some serious solar which makes the concept of heating using solar energy feasible (subject to battery energy storage capacity) even if still not for those of us who have less solar capacity (I, like most even with decent solar capacity, go with with LP heating) . Believe it or not, the Amish in our area are running around 4000 to 5000 watts of Solar permanently tilted South to 47 degrees which some (not all) of their local Bishops approve and your 3500 watts should be plenty for an RV CONGRATULATIONS and Happy Thanksgiving Can I camp beside you and plug in ??? lol John T
  13. oldjohnt

    radiant heat for floors

    Glenn, that's (8 x 350 = 2800 watts) a good size solar system and that coupled with an adequate battery bank and plenty of sunshine could be used for electric heat for quite some...……. Happy Thanksgiving, fun chatting with you John T
  14. oldjohnt

    12 volt remote switch

    An E Bay search for "12 Volt remote controlled switch" yielded over 6000 results lol but that can easily be narrowed to find ones suitable for your application...……………. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R1.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.X12+volt+remote+control+switch.TRS0&_nkw=12+volt+remote+control+switch&_sacat=0 John T
  15. oldjohnt

    radiant heat for floors

    Glen, regardless how good or bad any sort of electric resistance heat might be (If I recall correctly its 3.41 BTU per Watt) its my personal engineering opinion its NOT the best choice for extended dry camping (I use LP heat when dry camping). Sure, it can "work" but its gonna require one expensive heavy and hefty battery bank and hefty solar system. You see these gents with say 1000 to 2000 solar watts and say 1000 or more Amp Hours of battery energy storage and sure they may run a microwave or hair dryer or even limited AC but if you don't insist on using say AC or heavy heat loads you can get by with muchhhhhhhhhhh less solar and battery storage. I support ones choice and sure with enough solar and batteries it can work fine but its just NOT my engineers choice to use resistance (or even more efficient systems such as heat pumps or electric fired water heat etc etc) when dry camping but LP Gas instead. Your RV your money your choice NOT any of ours and again YES it can work with plenty of solar and batteries John T