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About oldjohnt

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    RV Travel, Antique Tractor Shows, Bluegrass Festivals, Snowbirding

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  1. Valid point, and to add to that, in addition one doesn't want a Converter/Charger operating off the Inverter as that's a loosing proposition lol. If I'm dry camping I prefer to power my LP Gas/Electric Fridge using LP Gas instead of Inverter powered 120 VAC but that's what started all this............People get by fine with and without inverter fed sub panels, there's more then one way to skin a cat, be it using sub panels or other switching and manual or automatic selection methods............ Best wishes yall John T
  2. YESSSSSSSSSSS that link worked immediately !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS Maybe if his battery voltage PLUS the actual voltage at his unit is within spec ABSENT ANY hot cords or excess line voltage drop or any weak under rated voltage dropping heat producing connections, be it a 12 VDC Power Outlet and Plug or more permanent hard wire type (if feasible based on use, location and portability issues) HECK IT MAY WORK BETTER ?????????? I'm just the type that (based on years of experience) if any device used a 12 Volt DC Power Outlet and Plug, regardless if the manual specified a lighter duty might suffice, Id probably stick a 20 or 30 amp rated unit in there with heavy gauge 10 or more wire ran to the battery !!! I think I saw a review of that or a similar unit on You Tube a while back, I will look later Hey we all try our best, that's all one can ask. I just enjoy helping people and figuring these things out lol A joy sparky chatting with yall, best wishes John T
  3. EXACTLY the newer capacitance and external sensors are farrrrrrrrrrrrr better then what was used and I saw so many fail over 49 years grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. As I said cheap OEM units were never very accurate or lasted long grrrrrrrrrrrr but there's hope for the future yayyyyyyyyyy Nice chatting with you take care now John T
  4. PS David, in addition to the 12 Volt 20 Amp DC Power Outlets I posted above, here are some 25 and 30 amp rated units https://www.amazon.com/Power-Source-12V-Outlet-Housing/dp/B011TN9V5Q It never hurts to err on the caution side and oversize where electricity is concerned, especially if overheating occurs, and bigger wire means less line voltage drop. Same as above subject to current and wire length, Id still use at least 10 gauge Wire. Of course, voltage at the source (battery bank) must also be adequate, if that's too low there can be a problem even if the fridge itself is fine !!!!!!!!!!! Always check for low battery voltage when 12 volt device problems occur. Let us know what happens John T
  5. Having owned RV's continuous for 49 years all I can say is I'VE NEVER SEEN CHEAP OEM TANK LEVEL MONITORS THAT ARE VERY ACCURATE OR EVEN WORK GREAT FOR YEARS ON END grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr But hey I've never owned a Prevost either !!!!! Sure, I have and you can try all the "snake oil" cleaners and one might also check all the electrical splices and connections and wiring, but I'm like you I doubt Id spend a lot of money to have them replaced. If you can get any external or capacitance type of sensors versus the electrical tip probes those may be better ???.. John T .
  6. Slow down ??? NOT ME that's for "old" guys lol I cant get the manual to open grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr ??????? so I have to rely on what the OP has stated. Regardless, if and where possible, I always prefer a hard wire connection versus any inferior possibly insufficient rated potentially voltage dropping plug that might, FOR WHATEVER REASON ??? overheat. If its overheating the wire may be too small,,,,,,,,,,Or the connection isn't adequate rated,,,,,,,,,,,Or its drawing too much current,,,,,,,,,And/or the overcurrent protection device isnt functioning properly . Regardless, Id suggest more then called for wire size to reduce line voltage drop plus a connector (if not hard wired) rated higher then the expected current draw, but hey that's just me............ In 49 years or RV ownership and as a used dealer I just saw too many plug and connection methods fail which is why I prefer a hard wire IF AND WHERE POSSIBLE, SUBJECT TO USE LOCATION AND NEED FOR PORTABILITY (IE its NOT for every application !!!!). Perhaps many failed because they used the cheapest unit available that WAS NOT SUFFICIENT RATED yet sure could still work especially when new and not much use. That's true in RV manufacture OTHER THEN ELECTRICAL grrrrrrrrrrr. Also perhaps a light duty maybe 100 Watt Power Outlet may have been installed fine for low power electronic charging BUT NOT for a higher current fridge or other such application ??? I just don't know whats there, its ratings and fridge requirements, so I cant judge the best connection method, sorry. Hope this helps Thanks Kirk, best wishes, try posting another link for the manual ??? I will give it a try and let you know. PS I'm headed your way in a few weeks, it wont be too hot down there will it lol John T
  7. David, if indeed the unit requires 10 amp at 12 Volts, I would install no less then a 20 Amp rated 12 VDC power outlet available at E Trailer or Amazon and a ton of other outlets no big deal. I would wire it with 10 gauge wire to reduce voltage drop, even though 12 could suffice, with proper overcurrent protection (Fuse or DC circuit breaker) at the source. This is an Easy Peasey inexpensive method to power any 12 VDC appliance that requires 10 amps. You can even get a 12 VDC power outlet that has a volt meter built in to monitor voltage at the load, which if low, can cause problems, excess current and overheating. DON'T OPERATE AT LOW VOLTAGE !!! Insure you have adequate voltage AT THE LOAD....... 20 Amp 12 VDC Power outlets: https://www.bing.com/search?q=20+amp+12+volt+power+outlet&PC=U316&FORM=CHROMN If the wire ampacity is marginal and/or the length is to long such can cause overheating. Similar a power outlet that's rated too low (like a wimpy 100 watt unit) can cause problems so check out a 20 or even 30 amp (if available) 12 VDC power outlet with big enough gauge wire (prefer even bigger then absolutely necessary) to the battery source. If the unit has a compressor or other problem ??????? that could be the cause of excess current. Maybe the wiring is sufficient but the unit is at fault ????????? Another option is to HARD WIRE the fridge to your house batteries to avoid any connection or power outlet problems and/or voltage drops John T
  8. David, obviously if the cord gets much too HOT, its drawing more current then its rated for. Typically if the cord has the correct overcurrent protection (fuse or breaker) that shouldn't happen. If you're running on 12 Volts versus 120, that's like 10 times more current and like 11 times the battery amps versus 120 amps if you're using an Inverter........ Is this a three way 12 VDC,,,,,,,,,120 VAC,,,LP Gas fridge or what ??? Is it an Absorption RV type of fridge or a compressor powered ?? Is it a 12 VDC Compressor fridge ???? Are you powering it using straight 12 VDC or is it running on 120 VAC supplied by your battery and an Inverter ??? John T
  9. Current transformers around conductors can be a way to measure CURRENT FLOW. Then a Kill o Watt meter will measure the amount of ENERGY consumed which is again Watts x Time. If your peak power usage is that ???? you need an Inverter big enough to supply that number of watts, you have answered your question. Remember peak power is what you will draw if/when all of certain appliances are running at THE SAME TIME The Inverter has to be big enough to supply that. That IS NOT THE SAME as how much ENERGY (Watts x Time) you might use in a day. Just add up the total watts of every appliance you need to be running AT THE SAME TIME to size your Inverter (plus allowing for extra and safety) piece of cake, you got this Glenn NOTE I'm rusty on this having long retired as an Electrical Power Distribution Design Engineer but believe its still true YET NO WARRANTY LOL John T
  10. You're welcome, Hey Glenn, that's what they do, hopefully you understand it better now. How many Watts you use for how many Hours computes to Watt Hours they charge you for.........Easy Peasey right ? Power in Watts = Volts x Amps,,,, Energy = Volts x Amps x Time To my way of thinking, absent YOUR energy audit of YOUR energy requirements and peak load,,, what those "people" are telling you isn't very definitive. How do you know what those "people" require is the same as you ???? THAT BEING SAID I have to agree 6000 WATTS IN AN RV IS AN AWFUL LOT and may well (subject to your energy use) suffice for you as well as those other "people" whoever they are and whatever THEIR loads may be. Its not hard to sit down and add up the total power of all the appliances (AC, Microwave, Crockpot, Coffee Maker, Hair Dryer etc etc etc) you want to be able to run at THE SAME TIME . I would take that number of Watts and maybe add at least 20% to 25% for safety and good engineering THERE'S HOW BIG OF AN INVERTER YOU NEED. Then your ENERGY use will again be Watts x Hours of use Remember you said I could plug to your system !!!!!!!! You have enough to power you own zip code lol I enjoy helping and spending YOUR money Glenn, CONGRATULATIONS and Happy Birthday America John T
  11. Glenn, I'm sure you have a handle on this, but for anyone who doesn't, lets get back to the basics. Instantaneous POWER in Watts = Volts x Amps. An Inverter has to have enough capacity to supply the biggest total POWER load (all appliances which might be on at the same time) placed on it any given time. For example if an AC plus a Microwave plus a heater or crock pot etc etc were all running, the Inverter has to supply that much peak POWER. ENERGY, like the Kwh the power company charges, is Volt x Amps x Time........ Therefore the total Kwh of ENERGY (V x A x T) used in a month isn't the same as the max peak POWER the Inverter must be capable of delivering. Got it ??? Power = Volts x Amps Energy = Volts x Amps x Time John T Retired n rusty engineer but this is still so as far as I know lol
  12. Its ONLY a small two door Dometic LP Gas/Electric (not as big as your nice unit). A 30 Lb tank can run it like nearly all summer/winter season of frequent dry camping UNLIKE if I use the water heater and cooking and grilling that really sucks the propane lol. Even though I have 1080 Solar Watts and can run ALL EXCEPT AC since my fridge uses so little LP I prefer to save all the solar energy I harvest for all except AC. Sure I have the capacity and have ran it on electric but I choose to use LP when dry camped long term subject to the suns time and intensity and angle DITTO I agree I don't think its worth the hassle to switch it to Battery and Inverter Power just to save a small amount of propane STILL ITS A MATTER OF PERSONAL CHOICE AND PREFERENCE provided one has the capacity to run it on Battery/Inverter or LP Fun sparky chatting with you, take care and God Bless John T
  13. ross 72 Great question here's my experience and understanding of the situation. Based on your question I'm assuming you have a typical RV Combination Electric Gas fridge correct ???? Heres the deal on that: 1) As far as electric consumption is concerned, those fridges are NOT as energy efficient when operating off 120 VAC via Battery and Inverter power as the modern 12 VDC Compressor units are. 2) If you had PLENTY of Solar and PLENTY of battery energy storage capacity plus an adequate sized Inverter, and even if the operation isn't extremely efficient, SURE you COULD use battery solar and Inverter and save on LP Gas use when dry camped.......... 3) Although I (typically usually mostly lol) have adequate battery and solar and Inverter capacity to run my Gas Elec fridge on electric when dry camping (Im sized to run ALL EXCEPT AC) THERE MAY BE TIMES WHERE IT RAINS DAYS ON ENDS OR IM PARKED UNDER TOTAL SHADE CANOPY THEREFORE, since LP Gas consumption is sooooooooooooo small and I want to conserve all the solar energy I harvest in case of low sun days (it happens) I RUN MY FRIDGE ON LP GAS WHEN DRY CAMPING. PS I have no idea of the watts your unit requires to run on 120 but depending on size it may be 300 to 500 ??? That is quite a draw on your batteries when dry camping !!!!! 4) The thing is if you choose to use it on LP Gas versus having an adequate sized battery and solar system YOU CAN GET BY WITH A MUCH SMALLER LESS EXPENSIVE SOLAR/BATTERY SYSTEM 5) As far as what circuits to power up using Battery and Inverter Power (Unless you have one HUGE system), DO NOT connect to any high energy loads such as Hair Dryers or Microwaves or Crock Pots or Coffee Makers etc AND DO NOT power up your Converter/Charger with the Inverter that's a loosing proposition. ALSO as I explained above I would NOT run the fridge off battery and Inverter but use LP Gas for extended dry camping. If you have a small to mid sized system you could run 120 VAC TV and computers and small electronics and charging etc etc using your battery and inverter, BUT that fridge on 120 or any heating devices will suck your batteries............ 6) You have to figure out how to utilize the Inverter be it a separate sub panel or transfer switching etc etc but thats a whole other thread, I'm not going there now lol John T Retired n rusty engineer and 49 year RV owner
  14. Just Snake, good information. FWIW Ive had those thermal fuses go bad on LP Gas Water Heaters but never had that problem on a fridge. REGARDLESS if 12 VDC is cut off that causes failures THANKS FOR THE INFO IT MAY HELP SOMEONE PB "I’m suspecting the lower control Board in the back since I have 12V present for lights inside the fridge" AFTER insuring its NOT any fuse or connection or a bad ground or low DC voltage problem or the eyebrow has no power CIRCUIT BOARDS CAN GO BAD FWIW Ive replaced with Dinosaur Brand and never had any of them fail John T
  15. Glad you got an answer. It has to do with the difference between an Autotransformer and an Isolation Transformer, but that's deep enough for now lol John T
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