Jump to content

Daveh

Validated Members
  • Content Count

    837
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Daveh

  1. Yes. I would check if you inverter/charger gives specification. My magnum called for 4/0.
  2. Go for it Glenn. This is for lifepo4 but read it through as it may give you some thoughts on design issues. https://marinehowto.com/lifepo4-batteries-on-boats/
  3. Watching. Interested also
  4. All of the fires get categorized as lithium caused which is the problem. It is not apples to apples. Clearly LiFePo4 is the safest but there are many RVers successfully using Volt, leaf and Tesla batteries. If you are DIY you do need to know your battery chemistry and charge parameters. As you say both of the above are probably charger caused problems. Do not slap a lead acid charger on and expect everything to be okay. It is best to oversize the pack and not push them all the way to the top when charging. Unlike lead acid they do not need to be topped off.
  5. You should watch the battery section on the you tube called "beginning this morning".He does a large Nissan leaf cell installation.
  6. How Many amp hours are you thinking of getting? / /
  7. Looks like lg makes the leaf battery also so they could be either.
  8. These are the specs I see on a volt cell. See how they match up. Cell type Laminate type Cathode material LiMn2O4 with LiNiO2 Anode material Graphite Rated capacity (0.3C) 17 Ah Average voltage 3.8 VDC Maximum Voltage 4.2VDC Minimum Voltage 3.0VDC
  9. If you are looking at the BMS make sure it can handle both the charge and discharge amperage you will be throwing at it. Sometimes they just give you the discharge amp.
  10. Looks like LG makes the volt battery and those look exactly like volt cells so I bet that is what you are dealing with. From what I have read the volt battery charging range does not match up well for a 12 volt pack but does for a 24 or 48 volt. c He does a Chevy Volt battery install. If jcussen has been dealing with him i definetly would be interested in learning more.
  11. Well that is a very low price. I would want to know how much they have been used (they are new?) and their exact chemistry. Did they actually do a capacity test or is that the original rating. Lifepo4 is the safest of the chemistries but more expensive. Once you know the actual chemistry you can determine the true voltage operating range and whether it is compatible with your equipment.
  12. Hmmmm I thought someone would know. Maybe try you tube or other info for regular home construction. I would think the technique is transferable.
  13. Eternabond has such an established reputation for effectiveness, this is an area where it makes no sense to look at alternatives.
  14. This discussion may help. I think John has you on the right course. If you can rule out wires touching (OR EVEN LOOSE---TIGHTEN DOWN EVERYTHING EVEN OUTLET WIRES--LOOK FOR EVIDENCE OF BURNING OR FAULT) then probably voltage regulator. Remember the source of the floating neutral may not be evident and even a loose wire can cause this problem. So double check and tighten stuff even if it looks good. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/generac-q55g-146vac-output-387895.html
  15. This outlet you are connected to, is it something that is part of the generator or did you have it hardwired to the generator? Is there a way to substitute another outlet or remove it and check the wires directly.
  16. I am not terribly high in the knowledge area so others can be much more definitive but I will comment that this sounds like a problem I had with a floating neutral so part of your answer will be told in checking voltages working back from the progressive. Where did you check the voltages? At the generator?
  17. I guess they will do slides but they are reluctant to do so (at least at the Mesa shop). The guy said they don't recommend it and it would be disproportionately expensive. I didn't ask for details.
  18. I did the flexarmor but cannot give you much detail as I only have had for about 4months. Looks great. They remove everything, drip rails, vents, AC and cover all seams. Wehn they reinstall you get new vent covers and new seal for the ACs.Total additional weight when done is about 150 lbs as I recall. The coating virtually dries on contact after being sprayed and they apply a thick coat. It is much thicker than an epdm. As Glenn said they do not do it in a campground so we stayed in a nearby hotel a few nights. I did not realize that Rhino was now doing roofs. Both flexarmor and the Rhino bedliner materials are made from polyurea. The flexarmor is a modified formula of polyurea to allow for flex as cracking was a concern. It is softer to the feel than a bedliner. So did Rhino also modify their formula? Another question I would have is whether this is actually Rhino of Rhino lining fame or if someone is playing games with the tradename. RV ROOF also goes by Flexarmor and is trademarked and then you get the campground one going by the name of RV Armor causing all kinds of confusion. Anyway. I love the new roof. I had a branch rip our first one and I would be very surprised if a branch could get through this. Plus no more annual maintenance. We had ours done in Mesa Arizona but the first store is in Green Cove Springs Fl.
  19. We have one of the 16 gallon water heaters and never really have running out as a big concern. I liked the idea of a tankless for less weight and less energy use. Are these not real benefits?
  20. I am confused on this as well. Some people say their's work great while I read others who say they are either scalded or cold.I am interested but this conflicting info has scared me off.
  21. Glenn. I apologize if you answered this before. I am trying to envision your set up with the mini split underneath. What is the clearce from the back of the minisplit to the RV floor? Did you put a protective grate or screen in front of the unit? Are you holding the unit in place with angle iron attached to your frame?
×
×
  • Create New...