Jump to content

Yarome

Validated Members
  • Content count

    2,681
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About Yarome

  • Rank
    Major Contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Optional Fields

  • SKP#
    126794
  • Lifetime Member
    No

Recent Profile Visitors

17,206 profile views
  1. Yarome

    10ga wire help mystery wires

    Exactly. It also depends on the solar controller. Some display only a representation of "expected" battery levels based on what size battery bank you tell the controller you have, some have only voltage sensors (better, but not entirely accurate as voltage only reflects actual capacity at a rested state) and others will have shunt (amp) sensors that will display battery levels based on voltage and amps in/out. Ken, in case you were wondering... the one you have has a voltage sensor.
  2. Yarome

    10ga wire help mystery wires

    Good point. The A-I's do float the neutral so, as John mentioned, you "may" need a ground to neutral plug (couple bucks to make one) for your genset if you plan to pass gen power through an EMS. Having an EMS is a "really" good idea. You can manually test a pedestal before plugging in to avoid many mishaps due to miswiring or other issues, but pedestal power is not always constant. Brownouts and spikes are not uncommon which can do considerable damage to onboard electronics. If you don't already have one, Progressive Industries makes some of the best on the market, IMHO. Not just their products but lifetime replacement warranty and their customer service is bar none. They have both portable (plug into the pedestal) and hardwired (internally installed near the PD panel) units. If you will "need" a ground to neutral plug would depend on what type of EMS (portable vs. hardwired) and how you plan to use it. Most folks opt for the ease of a hardwired. If you spend the majority of your time connected to a pedestal then that's generally the best option. Portables... if not secured... will sometimes grow legs. With a hardwired though you would be passing genset power through it so a ground to neutral plug is required. I use a portable EMS since I almost never plug into shore power and prefer not to have another device "in-line" between my genset and PD panel. With a portable inverter generator... an EMS isn't necessary, IMO, since the output is a "known" source (constant and "clean") and already has built in protections. Some folks still do though as a "better safe than sorry" measure. As such, I don't "require" a ground to neutral plug, but I still carry one. Here's a photo of a couple G-N plugs. Pretty self explanatory, but basically just a blank male plug with the ground and neutral jumpered then plugged into an outlet on your genset to form the G-N bond. "Down-n-dirty" method is just to cut the male plug off an old extension cord, twist the G and N wires together then cap and tape em up.
  3. Yarome

    10ga wire help mystery wires

    😄😄 @John. Whatcha tryin to do there?!? Power your own little rollin city? I getcha though... even 15% off another 235 on a cloudy day is nothin to sneeze at. Your biggest hog is your dorm fridge, but heck... during the hottest part of the day... when it's workin the hardest... it's all free juice anyhow packing that much up top. How's your CCC holdin up? 😉 [For the sake of others: Meaning that his bank it topped off in the morning so the refer is running off excess production rather than his battery bank.] I've "thought" about tossing a little more upstairs, but to do that I would have to go with another 270 (2x135's) to balance my arrays. That's a bit overkill. Or... to be perfectly honest... would give me more days of excess to do laundry that I now have an excuse to procrastinate. I've elected to hold off. ðŸĪĢ
  4. Yarome

    10ga wire help mystery wires

    An A-IPower... gotcha. I thought you had a Yamaha (vs. Yamaha engine "powered"). The only suggestion I might have there... if you plan to run it mounted... is to install hard rubber vibration dampners between the frame and mounting points. Even a 1/8"-1/4" thick would be helpful, but thicker would be better. Of course... ensuring the exhaust isn't anywhere near your batteries (off-gassing concern) or other fuel sources. If a single is able to run your aircon after the microair install you should be good to go. Charging off a single is a non-issue. The online manual for the controller might be much easier to read. There is also an installation guide on their website if needed. Battery monitor... you really can't go wrong with a Trimetric. They are fairly affordable, reliable, accurate and kind of a "main-stay". Even though I have montoring via my solar controller and inverter/charger remotes... I also have a trimetric for the "big picture" view of all incoming/outgoing current. Installation would require a shunt that should be mounted as closely as possible to the battery. The direct to battery connection on one side of the shunt and all other incoming/outgoing connections on the opposite side. Lookin pretty good there, Ken!
  5. Yarome

    Keeping RV Fridge Cool While Driving

    Agreed! That's what the smaller section above the fridge is for. Fill it with ice and it keeps the lower part nice and cold... even while driving. That's why I purchased a portable ice maker. It's been getting harder and harder to order ice delivery and hate having to make long drives trying to find somewhere to get the refer topped off. A little electricity and water... I can produce my own by the pound. I can understand the concern about steep grades though. Anything over a 6% grade and my refer door won't hold back a 10lb ice block. Nothing worse than getting to where you're going to discover only half a block left and long puddles in the kitchen where it's been sliding back and forth the past 100 miles. 😕
  6. Yarome

    10ga wire help mystery wires

    Scary, ain't it! 😁 Sounds about like the same animal though. In mine: AGM bank input: Solar controller (set for AGM's) and converter/charger (set for FLA's) Output: To house and inverter. As desired. FLA bank input: Converter/charger only (set for FLA's). Output: To house and inverter. As desired. *The converter/charger "can" have the settings changed between FLA's and AGM's, but it's not particularly necessary and doing so could lead to some confusion when switching between banks. The fear there being excessive offgassing of the FLA's if you forget to switch it back to FLA after charging the AGM bank. I would set it'n forget it. The best option, of course, would be to use a "custom" setting to set compromised rates between the two banks. Switching converter/charger input (shore power or genset) or output to the house and inverter AB switch is accomplished with a primary AB switch on the 12v line leading to the PD panel. The secondary AB switch on the inverter for selecting AGM or FLA banks. Both banks remain isolated from each other and the only thing you're really giving up is the ability to charge the FLA bank off solar.. In John's: The only variation appears to be... from how I "read" it... is limiting the inverter to the AGM bank, which would do away with the need for secondary fusing (for the inverter), the AB switch on the inverter and the additional wire run. The solar controller may be the "primary" charge source on your AGM's, but with the ability to switch house loads from either AGM or FLA comes the ability to charge the AGM's from the converter as well, so, no variation there. Aside from the dual fusing and AB switches... the other thing that doesn't excite me is the need for dual battery monitors. You could easily be looking at $200+ to run and monitor a secondary bank, under my outline, (which is likely only $180-$250 in batteries)... that may end up being no longer required if the AGM bank is expanded. That needs to be considered as well in the decision making process. System design is fun. Installation is fun. "Tweaking" a system for maximum performance is fun. After that though... outside of regular maintanence checks... I don't want to "have" to think about it. Ie., flip switches, flip flop settings as required, or worry about what's charging what at what rate. That's just me though. With my current AGM bank "regular maintanence" boils down to raising the end of my bed every 6 months-ish to make sure my batteries are still there. 😉 Ken, I would be very curious to see what your energy audit looks like. I know I could live perfect fine on 225ah's (current bank is 440ah's)... and I highly suspect John would be in the same boat even though his energy requirements are a shade higher than mine (I'm a solo), but moving to more solar and larger battery banks, for me, is more about reserve capacity and being rather anti genset dependent. Being tied to the house babysitting a running genset isn't really my idea of a good time. Besides... even "quiet" ones are noisy in quiet/natural settings and they stink! 😉
  7. Yarome

    NEWPOWA Solar Panels

    GS puts out some decent panels and have never hesitated to recommend them. Even on their "imports".. they actually mfg. panels, known their business and are pretty picky about what they put their name on. Best of all... they are honest on their ratings. What it says on the sticker is what you'll get. If you picked them up for $89... that's an excellent deal!
  8. Yarome

    10ga wire help mystery wires

    So, if as outlined above, I would have some of the same concerns John pointed out. 1. I wouldn't recommend interconnecting your AGM's and FLA's in any way. I mentioned "seperate" banks, but with interconnecting them you are really just running 2-6v AGm's in series... in parallel with your other 2-12v FLA's for a single battery bank. As mentioned, charge/discharge rates are different for the two types (or even the same types of different ages and or capacities). Rather than explain "why not"... given what you would "like" to do, I would see the following as a viable option to varying degrees. A. Run the banks completely seperate. The AGM's being the primary bank and receiving charge from solar and the converter/charger. A.1. Install an A/B switch or battery charge control module in-line of the main battery to PD panel 12v line leading to the FLA's. That gives you the option, while plugging into shore power, to charge the secondary bank (FLA's) via converter/charger but would never receive charge from solar production. The actual charge rates between the AGM's and FLA's are not that big of a concern. Setting your charge settings to the lowest (FLA's) setting... it's fine to leave it there for your AGM's as well. They won't charge as quickly or quite as well, but they'll still charge "adequately" when you're plugged into shore power for a couple days or more. Not the other way around though without potentially having a bit of excessive offgassing. In that case... while boondocking... you would switch the 12v in-line A/B to "B" and the inverter A/B to "B". Now your AGM's are cut out of the loop (charging on solar) and you're living on the FLA's with the only recharge option being a genset. HAVING SAID THAT: It wouldn't be my chosen option. That's building in complexity and multiple resistance points (a.k.a. efficiency losses) into your electrical that adds a lot of "cost" to your system and not fully utilizing the capabilities you've invested into your AGM's... IMHO. You have 225ah's of AGM, solar, and dual gensets. You might have a little more genset time if you're energy requirements are leaning more into the "medium" range, but it's entirely doable to live on 110ah/daily. Especially if you're only pulling the occassion 3-4 day trip "off cord". With 300watts... on a good day, in parts of the country, you could realistically push in ~60ah's/day so staying within that 100ah/day "budget" would require minimal genset time for a 3-4dayer. Remembering that you're bank doesn't have to reach 100% on a daily basis (which would require your genset anyway). Just so they don't drop below 50%SOC on any given day and you're able to take them up to 100% every 5-7 days or so. The main issue doing that would be that you really don't have any "reserve" if you hit a cloudy day or have to park in limited sun, but still plenty doable with your genset to hold you over and/or until you're able to increase your AGM capacity. Realizing of course that 300watts isn't really enough to feed a larger battery bank, but it would extend stayable days with what you have (without excessive genset requirements) and a "reserve" capability. [The use a little, add a little daily approach... it will take longer before your battery bank hits 50% SOC.] As for the FLA's... I would repurpose them or just set them off to the side for core exchanges on more AGM's. It might also be possible to sell them on craigslist or some such, but it doesn't make complete sense to me to spend more money to squeeze a little more outta "what I got" that will eventually be obsolete gear, and require a rewiring, once I fill out my AGM capacity. KWIM? My preferred option falls more into my own KISS and maximizing efficiency "comfort zone". It's certainly not the only or possibly even "best" option for you. That's also with the caveat that it would, of course, depend on what your daily energy requirements are... which is why I'm always harping on energy audit, energy audit & energy audit as the three FIRST and most critical steps when planning an off-cord RV electrical system. "Can" what you are proposing be done? Of course! You're not going to "break" anything or blow anything up, however, I don't see going to the additional expense and complexity as having much more worthwhile benefit over just running a single mixed (combined) AGM/FLA bank. Set your charge rates to the FLA's and let'er run. The biggest down side there would be that you invested some hefty bones into your AGM's that you wouldn't "realize", they would perform on level with your old FLA's and the life expetency would be shortened. The nutshell? IMO: #1. Loose the FLA's and live on your AGM bank. Expand capacity as you're able... but you "may" find it unnecessary... from what I've taken from your posts. #2. Run the banks completely independent with shore/genset charge options only on the FLA bank.
  9. Yarome

    10ga wire help mystery wires

    So... to see if I understand this correctly... you are running 2 "seperate" battery banks. I'll throw in what I "think" I know along with some assumptions and you can correct me as needed... just so we're all on the same page. To be technical, both are flooded wet cells, but one bank being your newly purchased/istalled AGM's and are directly fed from the solar controller. The other set are standard wet cells (starter? Hybrid/deep cycle? True deep cycle?) being fed/charged by your converter/charger (when on 120VAC). The primary 12v connection from battery bank to your rigs PD panel would then be to/from the standard wet cell bank. There are two seperate feeds to your inverter. AGM bank to A/B/All switch, standard wet cell bank to A/B/All switch and A/B/All to inverter. You have interconnected the two battery banks and installed a kill switch. The assumption being so that both banks will receive charge from both solar and the converter/charger and/or to allow manual control of the dual charging process. If I understand correctly, what you want to do is install an isolator on that interconnection to allow the AGM's and solar to charge the standard wet cell bank but not allow the standard cells (and the converter/charger) to charge the AGM bank? (Realizing that it would be "defeated" is you happen to ever use the "All" position on your inverter switch.) What isn't clear is what is the "first bank" (assuming you mean the AGM's) and the "second bank" (assuming the standard cell bank). The type, size and capacity of the "original" standard wet cell bank is also unknown... or... I mighta missed it, but would be helpful information. I'll refrain from any comment/suggestions until the basic layout is confirmed or corrected, but if that's kind of in the ballpark of what we're talking about, I "can" say you probably won't like my suggestions. 😉
  10. Yarome

    10ga wire help mystery wires

    Appreciate the update! Pretty cool, that, eh? 😉 I have a suspicion that the "Yamaha" genset you picked up was the AI Power genset powered with a Yamaha engine but not to be confused with a Yamaha inverter genset. No harm no foul there, though. If it works, within your budget and usage, you're "charged", keepin the wife cool (a.k.a. "happy") and it's workin for you... don't fix what ain't broke, I say. Sounds like all your ducks are in a row and money well spent on the MicrAair. Pretty nifty, that. As mentioned... to date I haven't heard of anyone regretting the install. Black water tank... factory sensors are pretty much the bane of everyones existence and not at all uncommon an issue. The ice thing... that's a hit and miss... with mostly a miss. Factory sensors are... don't want to throw a pun in here, but as it is... are for "crap". You "can" throw money at it and resolve the problem with a new sensor set but it doesn't take a couple trips or so to learn your tanks. With black it's called the "burp" affect. Basically... when you flush and get a "burp" sound it's getting about that time. You likely have a day or so before it becomes a neccesity to dump your black but you'll most definately hear a change in the "flush" sound that is really a learned and most trustworthy indicator. That same goes for your gray. When you sink takes on a "gurggle"... it's about that time. Black or gray you will have some warning if you're paying attention. It'll actually become second nature if you spend much time at all in your rig. As for a straight shot or not... that depends on the rig. Some are straight "ploppers" and some will have an actual trap similar to what you would expect in an stick & bricks home. In either... I'll step out on a limb and say that the majority of folks would advocate, "more water is more better" to resolve any concerns, but really, when you notice a change in tone/sound/habit of your sink or flusher is the best indacation that it's getting time to dump. It can be hard to "trust" your ear when starting out but from my experience, it is the most reliable and a far cry from spending the bones and installation hassle on a more "dendable" sensor setup. "You'll know". My personal opinions are my own, by right, and worth every penny of the paper they're printed on. 😉 *Note: Your MicroAir experience would be a great addition to the general knowledge base of others considering the same.
  11. Yarome

    New 5th wheel, what would you do?

    ... Nevermind. No comment. ðŸĪŠ
  12. Yarome

    NEWPOWA Solar Panels

    To clarify... I didn't say they were "low for that class of panel". Just that efficiency was a bit low considering they were billing them as "high-efficiency", but also stated that they were in the "higher average" for their (apparent) class. From responses to questions from the Seller "Newpowa America Inc.". Q: What is the efficiency of this panel? A: About 16-17%. *15-17% being "average" and 20-22%+ being considered more in the "high-efficiency" range in the current market. Some panels on the market might only hit 11-13%. Q: What is the grade of solar cells? A: ...some manufacture may spearate solar cells with grade A,B,C etc; which we think its unneccessary since we never manufture anything with cheap cells. *Even the highest quality cells will have variations from batch to batch and the mfg. process. That's how you end up with "classes" of panels within any specific brand... or a specific mfg. supplying multiple class distributors. That was just an ad hoc "discovery" from only the Amazon listing, however, that type of information can typically be found on reputable panel mfg's. pages as well as degredation and component specs and others. Often, that information is "assumed". Meaning... if they only offer one class of panels and don't specifically state otherwise, it's "assumed" they don't grade or match cells in their panels. If not stated otherwise... it's "assumed" it is simple single ply glass of unknown clarity/quality, etc.
  13. SR(SRNE)-HP24** (** denotes the amp rating)... That's what I thought. You should be fine keeping it on "0" (pure light control mode) then.
  14. Yarome

    NEWPOWA Solar Panels

    I think he meant $199... which ain't too shabby, delivered, and with Amazon's no hassle returns/replacements for a bit of peace of mind. I would say "good trade". As for the panels themselves, I don't have any personal experience with that brand, but the specs seem ok for the price range. I didn't look up some of the more particulars (not included on their Amazon listing), and they don't seem to have any information about the glass so I would assume "standard import". Efficiency is a bit low but on the "higher average" for that class of panel. Looks like they don't grade or "match" cells so it's hard to tell if the ratings are "actual" or "theoretical", but again, in that class that's pretty par for the course. "High efficiency" labels can either mean watts per sq. inch or actual cell effeciency. In this case, it appears to be watts per sq. in., but that's not exactly a bad thing either. The nutshell, IMHO: Pretty fair buy. Small form factor which is great in our world and I'm sure you'll get your money's worth out of em. *Wouldn't hurt to stick a meter on the pigtails before you go to mount it. If you're doing multiples then you want to check for output variations between the panels.
  15. If I know which one you're talking about it's the SRNE (China) PWM correct? If so, that's kind of a "hybrid" solar controller. Not truly "smart" as in dynamic/feedback charging, but rather a timed controller... with the "smart" part of it only being that it will continue charging as long as the controller is being fed juice from your panels, w/limited temp compensation, or the option to control the amount of time charge is applied to your battery. It's a step up from the older on/off charger, but shouldn't be confused with an actual "smart" in terms of what's on the market these days. A bit will depend on the type and size of battery/ies you are charging, how many watts of solar you have feeding the controller and which controller you have (10A or 20A) Off the cuff... you're likely best to stay on "pure light control mode" unless there is a particular reason to limit the amount of time (current) you're feeding into a battery. Even with a 20A model... and the number of solar panels to support 20A's... you would be hard pressed to overcharge a typical 12V automotive/marine/deep cycle battery of any size during the limited solar production hours in a day. Not that you couldn't, but for a definitive answer we would need to know the type and size (group) of battery/ies you plan to be charging and size of the solar array (watts).
×