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Yarome

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  1. A dirty sim or damaged contact (provided it has been inserted in the right direction... which happens.. ;-)) would be my guess as well. Might try cleaning the SIM contacts with a pencil eraser. If all else fails I would pick up a new SIM from the ATT store... takes all of 5 minutes... and try that next before dealing with the possibility of a damaged SIM reader slot. I don't know how or why but SIM's "do" go bad on occassion... I guess. In the early mobley days I had to have mine replaced for no apparent reason. Hadn't removed it from my mobley and just stopped being able to gain internet access one day. Thought it might be some issue with my account, went into the ATT store, they handed me a new SIM and all has been right with the world since. To note... we have 4 in our family using the mobley/explore setup. Pulled our SIM's during the "caution" period and have since placed them back into our Unite Explore's. All are working flawlessly. To note: SIM/Cellular and all that business isn't much in my wheelhouse so take the above with a grain of salt.
  2. I don't even know where to begin with that. It's not particularly germaine to the OP's issue, who doesn't appear to have logged back in to read their thread anwyay, so don't think I'll even try to sort through it. You will note that the Wynn's page you linked to is titled, "Best Converter Charger for an RV". Or visit a highly popular converter/charger company that is factory installed in many newer RV's... and is capable of providing a better than adequate charge to a battery bank. You'll note that they refer to their products as "converters" or "converter/chargers". Statements like, "...all you have is a Converter and not a 3 stage battery charger", "Read up on both" (as if they are different animals?), "...This is a time event.." (as a blanket statement for all products)... among others... are misleading, incomplete, doesn't always apply or flat out incorrect. "But we all have our opinion": There isn't a whole lot of "opinion" in what a converter/charger is, and it's function, in an RV. 😁 Just to keep it "light"... and not picking on you so much as clarifying an issue... what you're saying is kind of similar to saying, "You have a car. What you really want is an automobile. All automobiles can do this, that, the other that cars can't." We know that all cars/automobiles come in different flavors with different capabilities and features. So do converters... sorry... chargers. 😉 I encourage you to continue your research.
  3. Just to clarify... converters "are" chargers. Called converters because their primary function is to convert 120vac current to 12vdc, however, that 12vdc current is then used to power the 12v components in an RV... to include supplying 12vdc back into the battery bank. While older rigs may still have a single stage "dumb" charger installed, nearly all newer/modern RV's have 3 stage converter/chargers. What varies is the quality, how "smart" they are and how customizeable they might be to optimize charge levels for different sizes and types of battery banks.
  4. Moot at this point, but for future reference... properly secured... I have never known of anyone having an issue with detached panels under normal driving conditions. Trees with sticky fingers or hurricane/tornado run-ins... yes. Even among those using recommended adhesives (vs. screws) random detachments have been extremely rare and, IMHO, likely more attributable to user failure during installation. Ie., not cleaning the surfaces properly prior to installation or using an inadequate amount of adhesive and/or top layering. X2. They have their place. Ie., installation where rigid panels would not be practical and/or on curved or unusual surfaces... however, they come at a cost. Increased cost of energy production, rapidly diminishing performance and a much higher level of regular maintanence is required. In higher ambient temps they are also quite suseptible to drops in rated performance due to the inherent lack of heat dissipation.
  5. Possibly... to a degree... but generally, no. You also have to consider if the cost and labor is worth the return. The only method I am aware of that has limited success is to deep cool the dead battery pack and do a "jump start" from a comparably sized "live" pack. There are some dangers involved though as severely damaged cells within the pack "may" overheat and/or explode. The safest route being to tear the pack down into individual cells and attempt a recovery/jump-start cell by cell. Once an individual cell is able to pass current then a recharge can be attempted and the pack rebuilt. Of note though is that "recovered" cells generally will have limited capacity and longevity. Personally... I would take a hard pass.
  6. 🤣 Amen. If it's feasible to vent properly (running an LP line should be "cake"), even by fashioning and adding an external vent/chimney box, I think you would be far and long much happier with the LP solution for longer/more frequent boondocking. For those with expanded solar and the "backbone" (battery bank) to back it up... or who are able and willing to do regular genset runs... a small residential is more than doable. That being said, as a solo traveler my LP refer is more than adequate in size to sustain me for extended stays. If that wasn't the case then a residential would certainly be my very next option.
  7. Exactly! Ceramic burr's seem to offer the best grind. The rest is just keeping it in alignment for a consistent grind. Not as critical for some brewing methods than others... and if it ain't broke...... , right.
  8. Looks to be a Hario/Kyocera... "remake". 😉 I'm sure you'll be quite happy with it. Dunno how many years mine has on it. It's been more than a few and still going strong. My french press and cowboy coffee might not seem so... but I'm a little choosy about my coffee and it all starts with the best fresh grind. 😉 Enjoy!
  9. Sure. Just need a 12v to 24v step up converter. Maybe $20-$30... however... power wise you're not gaining any savings by stepping up to 24v. You'll actually loose more in the converter than just running it on 12v. That being said, I don't know it as fact, but you "may" get better cooling on 24v than 12v (at least a question I would ask), but it would be at a cost. For semi/serious boondocking... IMO, the only options that make sense are either a high effeciency 120v residential or LP. LP being the most self sustainable off your battery bank and limited solar. After more in-depth research and discussions on the DC compressor refers... there doesn't seem to be any advantage over modern day, low energy, residentials when you consider the lower initial cost, better overall cooling and available refer space factors. I choose to stay with LP, but mine is also modded and I don't stay in ambient temps that might challenge most absorption refers.
  10. I've never used one, but have considered an Oru folding kayak. Might be worth looking into. There is another that I've looked at before.. a Pakayak. Still quite bulky and expensive.
  11. Welcome to the forum. Stock led battery indicators in RV's are notoriously inaccurate and read voltage only. A poor or corroded connection may reduce the voltage reaching the indicator and produce inaccurate readings. With a healthy battery, a single light should have very little impact on overall voltage so a reading change so dramatic would likely indicate a bad indicator, possibly a failing battery or converter/charger failing to charge your battery. To rule out a converter issue, when plugged in to shore power the led battery indicator should read "full" while charging is taking place. That does not indicate that the battery/ies are fully charged... simply that the converter is supplying "full" voltage (to the battery) which the led indicator detects. It doesn't distinguish "where" the voltage is coming from (converter "or" battery)... simply that "full" voltage is detected. With a new to you rig, the best bet would be to take your battery in for a load test to get a clear picture of it's overall "health". Many battery stores offer that as a free service or very minimal fee. Even a new battery can be "killed" in a very short amount of time if not cared for properly. If a battery replacement is warranted, a "true" deep cycle battery (as opposed to the typical marine/rv hybrid deep cycle battery) would be your best bet.
  12. In general, and depending on what you have in there now and how old it is, upgrading is a wise option to consider while replacing a defunct unit. Progressive dynamics is probably your best bet for a direct/upgraded replacement if your current converter/charger is integrated into your power distribution panel... or... a stand alone converter/charger. What size you will need (output amps) would depend on the size of your battery bank... among other considerations. Looking at an inverter you really have two options. 1. Converter/charger unit and a stand alone inverter. 2. A combination inverter/charger unit. The benefits of one option over the other depends on your intended use, practicality, ease of installation and cost, but in the end game, either option is more than doable. Doing a converter/charger replacement and new inverter install at the same time... a combo inverter/charger unit might be something to stongly consider. To give more specific information/recommendations we would need to know what you currently have installed, the size/type of your battery bank and your intended use. Ie., typically shore dependent? Typically more 12vdc dependent? Do you currently have... or intend to install solar? What do you intend to power with your inverter? 30amp or 50amp RV?
  13. Correct. I should have been clear... private shippers that "will" ship handguns. You can use USPS for long guns, but no private individual can ship a handgun via USPS and "must" declare a firearm when shipping. I never consider them an option so neglected to clarify that point. Good catch. Thanks. USPS Who can, who can't, and conditions/requirments outlined.
  14. Quite so. Mine weighs in around 18lbs or so. Not something you would take on a hike. 😉 As far as cigar chairs go... I think the strongbacks are an excellent choice. Personally... I'm just not a fan of the cigar type.
  15. Hogwash. His information is incorrect. It get's tricky because, on one hand, there is what the law allows. On the other hand, you have to deal with a shippers rules and regulations and those of the FFL you're using. According to the ATF it is lawful for a person to ship a handgun to himself in another state (providing the gun is legal for you to possess within that state). FFL involvement is not required and without the necessity to declare the contents of the package or perform any background check. That's what the ATF and federal laws have to say about it. That being said... shippers have their own rules and regulations. Some will only ship from FFL to FFL. Others require overnight shipping simply because those packages are better tracked, stay in the system for a shorter period of time and is a means to deter employee theft. It's not a legal requirement. That being said... not all employees are aware of their own companies policies so you will often be given the choice of 2nd day or even ground shipping even though the shipper may "require" (by policy) that they ship overnight. Having said THAT. If you choose a shipping method outside of their company policies and it is lost or stolen... you "may" not be able to file a claim. Many avoid this whole mess entirely, including some FFL's, by self insuring and following ATF laws over shippers policies. IOW, ship via ground and don't declare the contents. Of course, there is some risk in that, but many do so without issue on a regular basis. When shipping to or from Alaska from FFL to FFL you are doing so under the ATF guidelines of shipping a handgun to yourself in another state in care of another person (the FFL). The law is satisfied. FFL to FFL is simply to meet the shippers requirements... not any legal requirment. That's not, of course, to say that an FFL may have their own self applied rules and regulations. Like not releasing a handgun to an out of state resident or requiring a background check. That does NOT mean that it is illegal not to do so, and many FFL's may mistake AFT guidelines to deter inter-state trafficking of firearms as "law", however, they are mistaken. I think it's probably an effort in futility to try and "educate" an FFL that belives otherwise. The best recourse is to find another FFL... or... self insure, don't declare, ship private address to private address (as the law allows) and assume the risk. That risk being delays in shipping, having it returned to the shipping address or filing claims under your own insurance if it's lost or stolen. To be completely "legal" taking that route, the package should be addressed to the gun owner, in C/O the addressee, and the package may not be opened by anyone other than the gun owner. All that said, this is my personal understanding and experience and shouldn't be considered as any legal advice. When in doubt.. consult a competent attorney or simply follow all rules and regulations of your shipper and FFL... no matter how rediculous they might me. 😉
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