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Yarome

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  1. Yarome

    Couple of Questions for Experienced Boondockers

    As inexpensive as panels and components have become it's becoming more and more a no brainer to go solar. Especially the freedom to move about at a whim in the RV community. Even for a modest solar setup it literally pays for itself in the first year or 2 compared to CG fees. Your experience is not at all unique. 😉 Good on ya~
  2. Yarome

    Couple of Questions for Experienced Boondockers

    Here here! It's quite more than doable to live "very" comfortably on solar... and not only on 12vac alone. I'm not without my 120vac appliances. Portable ice maker, washing machine and spin dryer... TV, internet... use my nuker on occassion and "comfortably" keep my battery dependant accessories charged. A bit of planning goes a long way utilizing full solar production, but it's certainly not rocket science. 😉 My rig hasn't touched a shore line more than 4 times in the past 7 years and rarely turn over my gensets more than once or twice a month. For a boondocker... I would say the main limiting factors are waste tank capacity, refer storage space and fresh produce. You "could" life on canned goods... but not a lifestyle I would chose. Fresh grocery and dumping tanks are generally what will drive me into town. In the grand scheme of things... electricity is quite the least of my concerns.
  3. Not all do. That's why it would be important to find out exactly what you have installed. If it is in fact an LP generator then that wouldn't be the case... but "may" be plumbed directly into an onboard LP tank, if so equipped. That tank may or may not have an exterior tank adapter installed which will accept an auxillary #20 tank or larger. If it is a gas or diesel genset.. and you have a cooresponding gas or diesel chassis... then it's likely that it IS fed directly from your chassis fuel tank... if the genset was in fact a factory installed option. When you asked about an LP genset... I made the assumption that you knew it was an LP genset... where it would, naturally, not be fed from your chassis fuel tank. 😉
  4. I stand corrected. 😄 LP is a by-product of oil refining or extracted from natural gas. Technically, "dino fuel" for those that don't recognize "dino fuels" to typically refer to products directly refined from crude oil (gasoline & diesel) and used as fuel source options in standard combustion engines found in typical RV's and portable generators. The facts remain. To be crystal clear... LP contains approximately 25% less energy per lb of fuel than gasoline and 35% less than diesel and cannot be compared pound for pound/gallon for gallon when it comes to genset output. Energy conversion rates also come into play. LP being the lowest... overall genset output will also be affected. Gensets range in fuel consumption, under A/C load, between 1/4 - 1gal/hr. A 13.5k BTU A/C... typically installed on "smaller class c" RV's... can have power consumption rates that vary by 4-5amps. Without knowing the make/size/model of genset and A/C unit it's difficult to give any meaningful ballpark number of hours of runtime off a #20 LP tank (assuming it's an actually full #20'er and not one from an LP tank exchange program that typically only has #14-#16 of LP in em.). At least... somewhere between 5 and 20... wouldn't help me do much advanced planning. 😉 While we're clarifying... also be aware that you will get "zero" hours of A/C from any genset unless it is in the "on" and engine continuously running configuration. 😁 Of course... to confuse matters... we're not even talking about a "generator" since they don't produce 120vac current. 🤣
  5. You can't compare dino fuel vs. LP consumption in gal/lbs per hr. LP requires approximately 25-35% more fuel (quantity) for about 90% output of a comparable dino fuel genset. Without knowing the type of size of your genset and A/C it's difficult to give much in the way of ballpark runtime numbers.
  6. Yarome

    Trojan T-105 vs T-105 Plus

    Apologize for the too late reply. Sounds like you have it handled. The only aside from the standards and the plus's not mentioned yet is the addition of a new metallic additive to their conductive grease formula on the plus series. It's "supposed" to help prolong greater conductivity over the life of the battery, but only time will tell in real life usage what kind of margin of improvement we're talking about. Trojan kinda know their stuff though so I wouldn't doubt it might be an improvement, however, it doesn't directly relate to ah capacity or plate longevity... rather to charge/discharging. If it tests out, I would imagine the new formulation will be making it's way to the other battery production lines. Personally, I'm not at all a fan of flip tops. They tend to warp, plastic hinges tend to break and they are not as easily replaceable as a bayonet style. There is always that bit of "juice" (electrolyte) on the underside of the tops... takes a good deal of pressure to "release" them and whatever in on the underside tends to get "flung" out onto whatever when the top pops. I also prefer the positive physical "lock". That being said... I have not played with their flip tops yet. I don't like flip tops in general... especially on my ketchup bottle. 😉 The water level indicator? Mehhhh. The universal option is nice... if you actually needed it in that size battery group... which RV'ers don't. For me, a water system option and positive physical locks trumps a water level indicator... which would be the only tangible "pro" I could come up with for my usage. However, I use a watering system on my 105's so the indicator is a moot point anyhoo. 😉 IMHO, they needed something "new" and "improved" to advertise for brand exposure... couldn't come up with any better ways to make a great battery mo' better that made economical sense... so now we have the "plus". As for the dimensions. I dunno. To me that says they went with a fraction less case material in the new molds for the plus series production. Due to improved materials, so less is required, or just shaving off point zerowhatever percentage off production costs I have no idea.
  7. Yarome

    Electric issue has me baffled

    I "guess" the sarcasm was lost in translation. 😉 YOU may not be sure, but the possibility of a shorted battery cell tripping the breaker on an isolated 120vac outlet string... in any standard battery/converter/PD panel configuration... as described by the OP... is not a "guess"... it's physics. Kind of like saying you were towing your 5er with your pickup, stepped on the brake and your 5er slides went out. 😄 Is there some miraculous/crazy/miswiring/catastrophic situation where that might actually occur? Nothing is outside the realm of possibility, but to discount any conventional wisdom or understanding of electrical systems becase there is a 1 in a billion chance that it "could" be "this", "that" or "the other".... no one can do anything but guess as to why... is ludicous. Personally, if I hired a professional electrician and he was unable to diagnose a problem, but fixes it without even knowing how he did it, would not be anyone that would ever get my business again. Just because someone goes about doing something in the wrong way for a decade... or 2 or even 5... doesn't somehow make it "right". It seems I often see these, "No one really knows. We're all just guessing" statements when someone disputes information you've presented. Might be worth a little self examination why you feel that's necessary or how it contributes to the discussions at hand.
  8. Yarome

    Electric issue has me baffled

    I prefer to stick with the obvious solutions first to avoid confusing someone with an off-the-wall extremely improbable issue and work down. In the event of a shorted battery cell there is an inline 12vdc fuse. That "could" fail.. but then there is the converters output limitations, overvoltage protection (found in most modern converters which, not knowing the age or type of converter installed, yours may or may not have), internal fuses and a breaker feeding the converter. So the battery/ies main inline breaker "might" not pop. The overvoltage protection "could" fail to kick in (is so equipped). The converters internal fuses "may" not pop. The circuit breaker in the power distribution panel "could" fail to trip... and if your outlets were tied into the same circuit as your converter then, yes. All 4 or 5 of those conditions being met then it is "possible" a shorted battery cell might kill your 120vdc outlets. But I'm just guessing... Who really knows how 12vdc or 120vdc really work anyway, right? 😁
  9. Yarome

    Electric issue has me baffled

    It doesn't. The battery and "1/2 the 120 AC outlets not working" are not related. The 15 amp breakers are for your outlets. One trips.. you reset it.. they now work. The first time around are you sure that you completely disengaged the breaker... completely to the "off" position and then "on"... and reset it rather just flipping it back over to the "on" position? That would be my guess. Second guess would be oxidation or corrosion on your breaker post, or internally, not making a proper contact, but in the process of moving it around while fiddling with it a contact was made. Don't know how old your rig is, how often it's used or what secondary factors may/may not be at play. My money's on the former. 120vac outlets... problem solved. A/C, and pretty much any of your other appliances (refer, WH, furnace, slides, water pump, etc.), are related to the battery. As Dave mentioned... they all utilize 12vdc control boards. 120vac power to your A/C unit may be just fine but the thermostat and controller require 12vdc to activate the unit. If a battery cell had shorted then you would be talking blown 12v fuses, which you didn't mention, so I have no idea how that entered the discussion. Completely separate and unrelated power systems.
  10. As stated... it depends on distance. There are a number of strategies to conserve water while dry camping. Barb's bucket method is common, easy and cheap. You "can" get creative. In my rig I installed a 12v water valve (manual works too) in the bathroom and plumbed in a return pipe to my fresh water tank. About $20 all told. Hold the button... valve opens and water flows from the WH back to the fresh water tank until the hot water arrives. I also keep a bucket in the shower to capture a portion of water run-off that is used for flushing. As John said... water capacity is the biggest limiting factor for boondockers. Having a water purification system to process your own potable water from any given source (or questionable "potable" water sources) in conjunction with a water bladder (that folds up to about the size of a 1lb folded paper sack) can greatly extend your dry camping stay. My water system consists of something similiar to the waterfixer (dual filter and UV chamber), a water softener tank and a 12v RV style water pump. Where potable water isn't so much an issue for me... the size of my gray and black holdings tanks ARE. Haven't quite figured out how to get around that... yet. 😉
  11. Yarome

    Honda 2000i or Predator Generators?

    IMHO, a near worthless and unnecessary expense unless you are going to use a a deterrent bar or similar. Remember the "only as strong as the weakest link" saying. It takes less than 10 seconds to cut through the plastic handle with a hacksaw. 😉 If you feel it necessary, a light cable and reasonable padlock should be sufficient to deter thefts of opportunity.
  12. Yarome

    Genny Size

    You may not always get the full rated output (continuous or peak) with some of the budget oriented gensets. Running 2 in parallel will automatically limit individual output to their continuous rating so trying to run a 15k BTU AC might be hit and miss. Especially if you have other loads running... like forgetting to turn of the converter and having it run a charge cycle at the same time.... or forgetting to turn off the AC side of the water heater. In the OP's case we are talking about a 13.5k unit though. Pretty much any 2000watt duals in parallel would handle a 13.5k without much issue. Again... providing you're not running any other significant loads at the same time.
  13. Yarome

    Genny Size

    Quite true. Even bumping up the budget into the $850 range would get a guy into a quiet(er) enclosed inverter type... again... a Champion. A $350 jump from a $500 budget though might be too much to bite off.
  14. Yarome

    Genny Size

    A Boliy 3k+ watt in the $500 range?? All the ones I've seen are about double that.
  15. Yarome

    Genny Size

    Have to agree with John. Being a boondocker doesn't make us immune to heat and I'll turn my AC over from time to time, as do many. Kirk's correct though that's it's generally not often and not for any length of time. For me, more in the neighborhood of an hour or so later in the day to knock back the heat of the day and make supper prep a little more pleasant. Then again, I don't spend much time indoors and am what some might call a "goldilocks" boondocker... relocating to latitudes and elevations to stay within my general comfort zone. A 3k-4k watt in the $500 range... more than likely you'll be looking at something like a Champion open framed genset. A couple of things to be aware of: Running a genset in a pickup bed may act as a sound amplifier for generator noise. Some locations may restrict generator use or limited usage to specific hours of the day. Running a genset non-stop, very early in the morning or later into the evening in locations where it may "appear" you are the only living soul for miles may not actually be the case... and won't make you many friends. 😉
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