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Yarome

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  1. Yarome

    Throttled! (Prematurely?)

    X2. That there's just funny! Thanks for the giggle farts. ðŸĪŠ
  2. Yarome

    Mobley/United Explore SIM error

    A dirty sim or damaged contact (provided it has been inserted in the right direction... which happens.. ;-)) would be my guess as well. Might try cleaning the SIM contacts with a pencil eraser. If all else fails I would pick up a new SIM from the ATT store... takes all of 5 minutes... and try that next before dealing with the possibility of a damaged SIM reader slot. I don't know how or why but SIM's "do" go bad on occassion... I guess. In the early mobley days I had to have mine replaced for no apparent reason. Hadn't removed it from my mobley and just stopped being able to gain internet access one day. Thought it might be some issue with my account, went into the ATT store, they handed me a new SIM and all has been right with the world since. To note... we have 4 in our family using the mobley/explore setup. Pulled our SIM's during the "caution" period and have since placed them back into our Unite Explore's. All are working flawlessly. To note: SIM/Cellular and all that business isn't much in my wheelhouse so take the above with a grain of salt.
  3. Yarome

    battery level

    I don't even know where to begin with that. It's not particularly germaine to the OP's issue, who doesn't appear to have logged back in to read their thread anwyay, so don't think I'll even try to sort through it. You will note that the Wynn's page you linked to is titled, "Best Converter Charger for an RV". Or visit a highly popular converter/charger company that is factory installed in many newer RV's... and is capable of providing a better than adequate charge to a battery bank. You'll note that they refer to their products as "converters" or "converter/chargers". Statements like, "...all you have is a Converter and not a 3 stage battery charger", "Read up on both" (as if they are different animals?), "...This is a time event.." (as a blanket statement for all products)... among others... are misleading, incomplete, doesn't always apply or flat out incorrect. "But we all have our opinion": There isn't a whole lot of "opinion" in what a converter/charger is, and it's function, in an RV. 😁 Just to keep it "light"... and not picking on you so much as clarifying an issue... what you're saying is kind of similar to saying, "You have a car. What you really want is an automobile. All automobiles can do this, that, the other that cars can't." We know that all cars/automobiles come in different flavors with different capabilities and features. So do converters... sorry... chargers. 😉 I encourage you to continue your research.
  4. Yarome

    battery level

    Just to clarify... converters "are" chargers. Called converters because their primary function is to convert 120vac current to 12vdc, however, that 12vdc current is then used to power the 12v components in an RV... to include supplying 12vdc back into the battery bank. While older rigs may still have a single stage "dumb" charger installed, nearly all newer/modern RV's have 3 stage converter/chargers. What varies is the quality, how "smart" they are and how customizeable they might be to optimize charge levels for different sizes and types of battery banks.
  5. Yarome

    NEWPOWA Solar Panels

    Moot at this point, but for future reference... properly secured... I have never known of anyone having an issue with detached panels under normal driving conditions. Trees with sticky fingers or hurricane/tornado run-ins... yes. Even among those using recommended adhesives (vs. screws) random detachments have been extremely rare and, IMHO, likely more attributable to user failure during installation. Ie., not cleaning the surfaces properly prior to installation or using an inadequate amount of adhesive and/or top layering. X2. They have their place. Ie., installation where rigid panels would not be practical and/or on curved or unusual surfaces... however, they come at a cost. Increased cost of energy production, rapidly diminishing performance and a much higher level of regular maintanence is required. In higher ambient temps they are also quite suseptible to drops in rated performance due to the inherent lack of heat dissipation.
  6. I've had the opportunity to see some of those small stoves... including the Cubic cub and grizzly. The main problem with those, in a severe cold weather situation, being their fuel capacity. As Noteven mentioned... at a useable output they have to be constantly fed and most commercially available fuel won't fit... requiring you to process your own or re-process commercially available fuel. For moderate weather and lighting periodically to keep a chill off I'm sure they would work quite well, but not exactly practical on an ongoing basis if you have to feed it every 2-3hrs even when dampened. All things considered... for my 25' rig... I would probably be looking at something like a Kimberly.
  7. Another option for you might be a kerosene/oil heater. Primary heating in many Japanese homes and some are quite advanced with auto temp controls, timers, low fuel, O2 sensor shut-offs and forced air. I've never tried to buy one from inside the U.S. but apper to be available from import websites ie., global.rakuten.com or alibaba.com. Very fuel efficient and the electric models are quite safe. They are also very energy efficient with the fan option off. The rest is simply powering the control board and ignitor, (although some ignitors on electric models still use regular batteries) however, would still require some amount of 120vac via battery bank and inverter when electric hookups are not available. For winter RV'ing... I would consider a wood/pellet stove to be the best option. Not simply for the heat provided but also keeping the indoor humidity low. Aside from the installation, it comes with it's own unique challenges that would have to be carefully considered, but nothing insurmountable if you're determined enough.
  8. Yarome

    Chevy Volt 48v batteries dead

    Possibly... to a degree... but generally, no. You also have to consider if the cost and labor is worth the return. The only method I am aware of that has limited success is to deep cool the dead battery pack and do a "jump start" from a comparably sized "live" pack. There are some dangers involved though as severely damaged cells within the pack "may" overheat and/or explode. The safest route being to tear the pack down into individual cells and attempt a recovery/jump-start cell by cell. Once an individual cell is able to pass current then a recharge can be attempted and the pack rebuilt. Of note though is that "recovered" cells generally will have limited capacity and longevity. Personally... I would take a hard pass.
  9. ðŸĪĢ Amen. If it's feasible to vent properly (running an LP line should be "cake"), even by fashioning and adding an external vent/chimney box, I think you would be far and long much happier with the LP solution for longer/more frequent boondocking. For those with expanded solar and the "backbone" (battery bank) to back it up... or who are able and willing to do regular genset runs... a small residential is more than doable. That being said, as a solo traveler my LP refer is more than adequate in size to sustain me for extended stays. If that wasn't the case then a residential would certainly be my very next option.
  10. Yarome

    Non electric coffee grinder?

    Exactly! Ceramic burr's seem to offer the best grind. The rest is just keeping it in alignment for a consistent grind. Not as critical for some brewing methods than others... and if it ain't broke...... , right.
  11. Yarome

    Non electric coffee grinder?

    Looks to be a Hario/Kyocera... "remake". 😉 I'm sure you'll be quite happy with it. Dunno how many years mine has on it. It's been more than a few and still going strong. My french press and cowboy coffee might not seem so... but I'm a little choosy about my coffee and it all starts with the best fresh grind. 😉 Enjoy!
  12. Sure. Just need a 12v to 24v step up converter. Maybe $20-$30... however... power wise you're not gaining any savings by stepping up to 24v. You'll actually loose more in the converter than just running it on 12v. That being said, I don't know it as fact, but you "may" get better cooling on 24v than 12v (at least a question I would ask), but it would be at a cost. For semi/serious boondocking... IMO, the only options that make sense are either a high effeciency 120v residential or LP. LP being the most self sustainable off your battery bank and limited solar. After more in-depth research and discussions on the DC compressor refers... there doesn't seem to be any advantage over modern day, low energy, residentials when you consider the lower initial cost, better overall cooling and available refer space factors. I choose to stay with LP, but mine is also modded and I don't stay in ambient temps that might challenge most absorption refers.
  13. Yarome

    Inflatable Pontoon Boat

    I've never used one, but have considered an Oru folding kayak. Might be worth looking into. There is another that I've looked at before.. a Pakayak. Still quite bulky and expensive.
  14. Yarome

    battery level

    Welcome to the forum. Stock led battery indicators in RV's are notoriously inaccurate and read voltage only. A poor or corroded connection may reduce the voltage reaching the indicator and produce inaccurate readings. With a healthy battery, a single light should have very little impact on overall voltage so a reading change so dramatic would likely indicate a bad indicator, possibly a failing battery or converter/charger failing to charge your battery. To rule out a converter issue, when plugged in to shore power the led battery indicator should read "full" while charging is taking place. That does not indicate that the battery/ies are fully charged... simply that the converter is supplying "full" voltage (to the battery) which the led indicator detects. It doesn't distinguish "where" the voltage is coming from (converter "or" battery)... simply that "full" voltage is detected. With a new to you rig, the best bet would be to take your battery in for a load test to get a clear picture of it's overall "health". Many battery stores offer that as a free service or very minimal fee. Even a new battery can be "killed" in a very short amount of time if not cared for properly. If a battery replacement is warranted, a "true" deep cycle battery (as opposed to the typical marine/rv hybrid deep cycle battery) would be your best bet.
  15. Yarome

    12v converter died, replace with?

    In general, and depending on what you have in there now and how old it is, upgrading is a wise option to consider while replacing a defunct unit. Progressive dynamics is probably your best bet for a direct/upgraded replacement if your current converter/charger is integrated into your power distribution panel... or... a stand alone converter/charger. What size you will need (output amps) would depend on the size of your battery bank... among other considerations. Looking at an inverter you really have two options. 1. Converter/charger unit and a stand alone inverter. 2. A combination inverter/charger unit. The benefits of one option over the other depends on your intended use, practicality, ease of installation and cost, but in the end game, either option is more than doable. Doing a converter/charger replacement and new inverter install at the same time... a combo inverter/charger unit might be something to stongly consider. To give more specific information/recommendations we would need to know what you currently have installed, the size/type of your battery bank and your intended use. Ie., typically shore dependent? Typically more 12vdc dependent? Do you currently have... or intend to install solar? What do you intend to power with your inverter? 30amp or 50amp RV?
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