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Yarome

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  1. Basics to get started

    You really should have 2 of those. One for your bacon/sausage and one for your beef pan drippings. Like from roasting or searing. With all the seasoned rendered natural juices.... makes for some KILLER soup/stew stock without having to start from scratch.
  2. New Califederation firearm laws impact

    Isn't that whats so great about the U.S. though? Everyone is free to express their opinions, try to impose their belief systems on others and stick their noses into anyone elses business they choose. You better hide your airtight glass herb jars.
  3. Which gen set is more reliable

    More of an all-in-one (cleaner, conditioner, protectant, moisture displacement) fuel/oil treatment... AND works well as a fuel stabilizer.
  4. Which gen set is more reliable

    X2. I use Seafoam exclusively as well, but buying by the case we can pick it up for $5-$6 a bottle. In the UK... the cheap side is $23-$25/btl. That's a lotta lettuce!
  5. Which gen set is more reliable

    Fuel stabilization with Seafoam is more of an "afterthought". It's main purpose is a three point cleaner, conditioner, moisture displacement product. Using it in a new engine and only as a fuel stabilizer then you won't see many short term benefits from it over products like sta-bil or B&S's fuel stabilizers. Many still use it though as a preventative measure, especially in larger engines. Lot easier to prevent clogged injectors and gummed carb issues than it is to fix them later... not to mention maintaining performance levels along the way. In a small engine that tends to sit with fuel in it for lengthy periods of time it's not a bad idea either, but not really necessary. If you ever do start to run into gumming/varnishing issues then it would make more sense to buck up and fork over for some Seafoam, but not necessary on an ongoing basis. Regularly scheduled "runs" (under load) should keep it ticking along just fine.
  6. Which gen set is more reliable

    That blew up. I'm partial to seafoam as well, but it's RIPPIN expensive in the UK (~$25+ a bottle) and wouldn't use it unless I actually needed to rectify an issue. With a new small engine, B&S is perfectly fine. Sta-bil is more of a "mainstay" brand, I've used it often and have no issues with it whatsoever, but I've used B&S's fuel stabilizer as well. If Sta-bil is "marginally" better than B&S's it's hardly noticeable. There has also been recent discussions that in newer small engines that have slightly less hardened materials that sta-bil may be too "strong" and could the causing internal pitting. I have no personal experience with it doing that and it may just be a growing myth, however.... B&S's is readily available in your neck of the woods, it's affordable and it works. I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
  7. Couple of Questions for Experienced Boondockers

    There may be more than you think. I've never met a 5'er that didn't have some amount of parasitic. Even a reefer running on LP requires 12v to run the control board (even when idle), thermostat and ignitor. The gas detectors, radio memory (if so equipped), power management monitors/remotes, WH board, sensors, etc... and just general line loss all contribute to "parasitic draw". Even 1/2amp doesn't seem like much, but that's 12ah's/day... or... 2+ hours of solar production off a 100watt panel out of ~5. Some rigs may have as much as a full amp+ (or 24+ah's/day without a single light on). "My point is that many people think the choice is between a generator and solar. I think you really need both..." Absolutely agree. Any amount of solar is good. More solar is even "more gooder", but even a well planned solar system with every "margin" added in will, occasionally, benefit from a cord.
  8. Which gen set is more reliable

    Not at all! There are some advantages to dual fuel. If you're energy requirements are not that great then using LP might be a valid option. Just realizing that your power output will decrease between 10-20% (depending on a few factors) on LP and it burns a "lot" of LP since the actual "energy content" in LP is much lower than in petrol. If you're not going to run your genset more than once a month or so then the dual fuel option might be a good idea. Using petrol does take a bit more maintanence if it's not run very often, but doable. Using a fuel stabilizer is important. In many of the Hyundai's running the carb dry is an option or even manually draining the fuel lines for long term storage. Kind of a PITA because you have to prime the fuel lines before each use, but might be worth it to save the added expense of a dual fuel option. To note: In models with a fuel pump... like an sei... running it dry isn't an option, but may still be drained manually. One way around running it dry is to not fill the entire tank, add a portion of fresh fuel every month or so and run the genset to burn the "old" fuel out of the carb and lines and circulate fresh fuel. Of course... with a partially filled tank there is a greater risk of moisture content buildup. If you're full-timing, it's really not that big of a deal to unplug from shore power once a month and let your genset stretch it's legs. You avoid all of that with LP, but be prepared for the additional upfront cost, lower output and packing a lot of additional weight in LP over gas for the same amount of runtime.
  9. Which gen set is more reliable

    Just for general information. Hyundai's don't have much of a following in the U.S.. Compared to a Honda they are larger, heavier, not "as" quiet and pack a larger engine so they aren't quite as fuel efficient. However, a 2kW has a surge/start rating of 2200 and 2000 continuous. Honda's only have 1600 continuous. Reliability~wise... they aren't too far behind the Honda/Yamaha's and have a much better support structure in the UK than in the U.S.. Output is "clean" and they have a very similar power management profile to handle dynamic loads. At half the price it's a VERY solid option (in the UK). In the U.S. the price margin is narrow enough between the Hyundai's and "Honda class" generators that they've never really "taken off" for mainstream use. Especially among RV'ers. Realizing of course that we'll pay less for 2-2000kW Honda's than you'll have to pay for even 1. The Champion would be more of a "budget" class on both sides of the pond. Actually... even a bit more expensive for you than it is for us so that tends to lean even more toward a Hyundai since the overall savings isn't as great. Considering size, weight and fuel efficiency it might still make sense though.
  10. PILOT / Flying J ....YES!

    Completely agree. I do see some with RV slots, but I also see that they get filled rather quickly so RV'ers still tend to park among the truckers. That being said, I "do" enjoy me a Pilot/Flying J. Grab a steak and eggs breakfast for an early supper, typically better than average coffee, hit a piping hot continuous shower, launder some of the items that don't fit in my camp washing machine, dump, fuel, water and LP up... all in one place. I don't mind a slightly higher ppg for the convenience factor, but I always clear out by early evening. As Big5er said... truckers don't "have" many options where they can stop. It's their livelihood. I do... and I'm just "putzing" around on permanent vacation anyway.
  11. Which gen set is more reliable

    All fine and good, but portables in the UK are "quite" expensive so it makes more sense to look at a highly reliable mid to higher end than a Honda. In USD you're talking the difference between maybe $7-$900 vs. $2-$2.5 for a 2kW. Personally, I pack dual 2000's and know many that do, but how many of us would be doing that at $2.5k a pop? Honda's to Yamaha's I would put exactly on par with each other. More folks own Honda's but that doesn't necessarily make them the "best choice" portable. They each offer different feature sets and slightly different price points. Honda's being, generally speaking over the past several years, slightly less which I'm sure has added to their popularity.
  12. Costco 24DC Interstate Battery

    I'll add... for the "techie's"... the more accurate way to get to AH capacity of a wet cell is RC x .4167 (assuming a standard 25a 80degrees spec), but in smaller batteries it doesn't make much difference. Ie., 58.25ah's vs. 58.34ah in this case. Just sayin' before someone points out, "that's not how you do it!".
  13. Costco 24DC Interstate Battery

    Not at all! Specs on the 24DC 12V are listed with a reserve capacity of 140 minutes @ a discharge rate of 25amps. Quick and dirty math.... 140min/60min = 2.33hours. 2.33hrs@25amps = 58.25ah's capacity.
  14. Couple of Questions for Experienced Boondockers

    I won't say that "some" rigs might be able to survive on under 125watts of solar, that is not at all typical. There is also a difference between being able to run a rig for several days without an active charge and get home with a fairly depleted battery and actually being long term sustainable. Ie., you have 100ah available, you're burning 40ah/day but putting back 20 via solar. You're losing 20ah's capacity a day, but that's perfectly doable for 5 days or so. If you're only burning 30ah's/day your "stay time" increases. With a single 80-125 panel... best case scenario... 15-25ah's of solar production per day. That's where the type of rig you have and the amenitites you have come in to play. Every rig will have "some" amount of parasitic energy draw. Obviously, a pop-up tent camper won't have the same parasitic draw as a 35' 5er. In a "modern" fully outfitted rig, your parasitic draw may be greater than 24ah's/day. In that case... with an 80-125watt panel you're fighting a losing battle without turning a single light on. Bottom line... stating a "blanket" panel size to, "only run a few lights and the reefer" is pretty much impossible without putting in the homework time and doing the math.
  15. Costco 24DC Interstate Battery

    First step would really be to measure out the battery compartment to see what will actually fit in there. A group-24 is going to be a about an 11x7x9.5 battery, but odds are... it will hold something bigger.
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