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About noteven

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    Exploring, riding motorcycle from rv base camps.

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  1. I stayed at Wonderland RV Park at Jct 24 and 12 east of Torrey, UT. Rode Hwy 12 forth and back.
  2. Pickups work really well if you tow full time at 50% of the we beat the competition ratings. They will haul at full GVW day in and day out. Big trucks are built to tow/haul at 100% all the time if ya want.
  3. I’ve been getting a Verizon “unlimited” data Can-USA-Mex call and text plan with a 406 phone number. I’m not a VIP so family and my 2 friends are sent the number. I put my Telus plan on vacation hold for $10/month. I have the same plan except data is limited on my home mobile number. No roaming charges, no daily charge. This winter I may keep my own phone going, reduce its data to save a few $ a month and get a Verizon “unlimited” hot spot plan instead.
  4. There is a reasonably priced basic campground in Cameron on 89 with pull through sites. I used it as a base to put the two wheeler on the ground and rideabout the south rim area. Its in the Navajo Nation. Some of the hotel staff live in mobiles behind the rv park and wave howdy. 89 quiets down at night. North side there is a boondocking area about 20 mi south of Price I cannot remember the name of...sumpin overlook...
  5. Ohhhh.... sous vide means food cooked in warm water but not stewed and not on the manifold of the Cummins... sounds yummy me needs to try this...
  6. My camper has an over the air HDTV antenna. 40 miles SW of Tucson in the boondocks I could receive 56 channels 80% not worth watching and the other half stupid stuff.
  7. Or a long trailing arm single axle with a fluffy coil spring ...🤔
  8. noteven

    Starter/battery issues

    We never own “too many” engine powered machines. We own too many batteries.
  9. I do a bit of moto tent camping. Cots are ok in warm nights. If it gets cool or cold out you fweeze. A 4” thick Thermarest mattress is comfy. A Thermarest on a cot is purty comfy.
  10. Kirk & John - truck 1 has a 136amp alternator (Dodge diesel) and the diode system on it. It’s cables to the camper are at least as heavy as the battery cables. With the engine running I measure 14.7 volts out at the isolator, and 14.6 at the camper batteries. I was thinking I would use the same gauge wiring etc on Truck 2. Previous campers fridge with through roof top vent would stay lit on propane while driving. New camper will not. It has sidewall upper vent. New camper has 170watts of Zamp solar equipment. It all works fine for my little bit of energy needs when boondocking. I don’t like pummeling the batteries with low voltage while driving. It also forgets to switch to propane when you park not on shore power when the fridge is left in auto mode. I think it senses some last bit of surface charging from the truck and says “I can stay on DC”. If you are on shore power and disconnect it auto switches to propane. This I discovered one -20F evening Walmart docking in Helena when I had brain flatulence and forgot to switch fridge to propane and my heating system shut down at 10.5 volts like it is supposed to. Tracked some snow in on the door mat that had melted at bedtime. It were re fwozen at 0 4 hundred the next morning 😯. Lit the fires in the Cummins and everthin come back to life. In Alberta we call this “the freeze and learn method” 😀. I will probly wire to the batteries. This camper has removable insulated belly panels that gives access to all the tanks and etc in the basement so I can make a proper job of it. Thanks
  11. Kirk - truck 1 has a 136amp alternator (Dodge diesel) and the diode system on it. Truck 2 has 150 amp alternator (I think) F350 6.2 gasohol and no isolator equipment - yet. I like your idea to use a mechanical relay. Yes the camper is easily unloaded so I do that as necessary.
  12. I have a diode isolator under the hood on my camper truck, with battery cables run through a marine circuit breaker to an Anderson quick connector. On my previous truck camper the battery compartment was near the front on the driver side. I disconnected the 12v wire in the camper connecting 7 way cord and run the cables directly to the camper batteries. This setup supplied sufficient amps to operate the fridge on DC when driving and keep the batteries charged. New camper is a Cirrus 820. The fridge will not stay operating on LP when driving, and the DC mode puts a strain on the OEM DC arrangement. It has the batteries in the right lower rear, as far away from the alternator as possible. 😀 The converter is in the step to the bed overhead. Should I run new cables from the isolator all the way to the batteries, or can I connect at the converter? I’m thinking cable to the batteries...
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