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About rdickinson

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  • Birthday 08/27/1947

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    Victoria, BC, Canada

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  1. The idea of mounting b/w the frame rails has crossed my mind but service could be a problem. There is a pic or pics out there of a generator mounted on a slide which came out the back of the truck. Much the same as motorhome installations. I'm not sure if the door came out with the generator slide or swung out of the way. Sliding out would cause some issues for wiring.
  2. Something else to think about. I'm not sure if you plan to do all or some of the work yourself but working under the truck is not easy. A creeper works on smooth surface but everything you need to access is too high, too low, too far away because there ae sharp pointy obstacles in the way or too close so you can't work on it. If that's not enough there are obstacles to fight with and reroute around or drill and go thru and last, maybe, there is nothing but deck above and no easy way to fasten to it.
  3. On the truck side of the socket the running lite wire is brown. b/w 1 and 2 o'clock position. Check for power on the pins in the socket with a circuit tester and lights on. If no power there , locate the terminal block I mentioned and try on the trailer end of the brown wire. If power there then the problem is in the plug. Take it apart and clean connections. If not there try the truck side of the plug with the circuit tester. When you pull the plug out of the socket, look at the male plug end. On the end the pin holes are labelled clockwise from the top , W, Bk, Y, R, G, Br. Center is Blue. Socket is opposite, clockwise at 12 o'clock, W, Br, Gr, R, Y, Bk. Center is Blue. Running lites on the RV 7 pin connector is Green. On edit, contact Randy A or his friend Charlie. Randy tore his dash apart a year or more ago and will be able to help with the fuse/breaker end of things. Maybe Contact Henry as well. He was able to walk me thru the Jackalopee last year and I know little about all things electrical. A couple of mechanics had had at the Jack and got thing messed up.
  4. Doug, Under the cab of the truck there is a wiring loom tied to the drivers side frame rail. Roughly the same distance from the front as the commercial truck plug on the end of the green wire. There is a black multi wire connector plug. One piece clips into the other and there is a plastic lever that clips them both together. The lever clip wasn't holding the 2 halves together well enough so the trailer brake lites were not lighting up. https://www.google.ca/search?q=wiring+junction+connector&tbm=isch&source=hp&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjrwJnWt-DiAhUjilQKHR__DgYQ7Al6BAgAEA8&biw=1670&bih=777#imgrc=_O6eWy6rg2nOdM:&spf=1560221959416 When moving the lever, clip I could hear a breaker popping in the Jackalopee quite clearly. Nigel confirmed the click with the offending circuit. Email Nigel, he's still on the Island. I took a couple of pics with his camera so maybe he can up load them. Identify which wire is the one in question by testing the north end first then check the south end of the plug. This is the stock Volvo loom. I got two tie wraps about a foot long and cinched the 2 plug halves together from one end to the other and levered the tie wraps really tight with a pair of needle nose pliers.. It worked for me. Nigel wasn't much interested in sliding around on his back on the gravel under the truck, can't imagine why, hence the pics. As Henry said to me last year, start with the last part that works and work on down the line from there. Hope it works for you.
  5. Mine's a 2017 Smart loaded from the side. I did modify the placement of the ramps while loading and unloading to eliminate the two front chocks and saving 5+ minutes each way.
  6. A good example is the Tampa RV show where the dogs are in buggies being walked about like babies.
  7. Having read the news item, I'm wondering what assistance the dog could provide it's owner that would involve its teeth?? Muzzle the dog.
  8. You will find this to be a 'good ole boys club'.  When they have their feet put to the dire they circle the wagons and lash out like rabid dogs.  The pack mentality takes over.

    Watch out for Phil, I've met him personally.  An OK guy until you get him on the warpath then all hell breaks loose.  LARGE font in RED.

    I don't have much to do with this bunch any more.  The one topic they never deal with at any of their Rally's is a vehicle precheck or post  trip check.  I offered to do one a few years ago and got stomped on.

    Have your radar on high gain and flamesuit ready.



    1. Darryl&Rita


      Roger, I don't know why, but this is showing up in the "Activity" section. 

    2. rdickinson


      No Idea, I as sending him a warning about getting Phil riled.

  9. Bang stick or a less potent relative. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=bang+stick&view=detail&mid=F2B3C811F3268A593181F2B3C811F3268A593181&FORM=VIRE https://www.fashionablecanes.com/92005.html
  10. There was 1 eye. But on the other side after pulling parts off there was backing plenty strong enough to put in another eye with a longer shaft if that's the way you want to go. This was done by a friend at the Smart Dealership who is also a welder. This 2017 is center pull, with the hitch slightly offset from the A frame so parts don't clash. The first pics are the '07 with single pull. The white and red car is the '17 with the center hitch and snatch block. The A frame had some extensions welded on to stand it off the side of the truck. It just barely fits into the passengers side outside storage box with the xtra water containers. The hitch also carries the bike rack plus it doesn't come out from under the car, no clearance lost.
  11. A hitch can be made for the 17's, I did it 2.5 yrs ago.
  12. Herrin put a Warn 4000 lb winch on my truck and it is more than adequate. To help somewhat, I use a snatch block on the back of the car which cuts the winching up speed in half but makes it a lot less jerky. My rig has a wireless remote, hardwired remote and a switch on the winch itself. My recollection was about 700 lbs pull ish. It's worked fine for 6 years.
  13. After Randy A's near miss experience, I should think so. Also getting out of the front bunk area by pushing out a window and trying to fit our older non bending bodies thru would not be easy. Most are larger than we were in our 20's. Also it is unnerving climbing out backwards and not having something to solidly plant out feet on. In the dark, during a fire, when your scared out of your wits. Used properly a smaller fire extinguisher can do a job. We only used Halon (in that era) Halon bombs yrs ago and CO2 in an area where the gas could be confined, like a boat engine room. Other than that it would dissipate too quickly. Add to your topic list proper pre and post trip checks. Look how many problems people find or experience that a pre trip would identify at the symptom stage. But hey...deleted.
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