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About rdickinson

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  • Birthday 08/27/1947

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    Victoria, BC, Canada

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  1. After Randy A's near miss experience, I should think so. Also getting out of the front bunk area by pushing out a window and trying to fit our older non bending bodies thru would not be easy. Most are larger than we were in our 20's. Also it is unnerving climbing out backwards and not having something to solidly plant out feet on. In the dark, during a fire, when your scared out of your wits. Used properly a smaller fire extinguisher can do a job. We only used Halon (in that era) Halon bombs yrs ago and CO2 in an area where the gas could be confined, like a boat engine room. Other than that it would dissipate too quickly. Add to your topic list proper pre and post trip checks. Look how many problems people find or experience that a pre trip would identify at the symptom stage. But hey...deleted.
  2. The dry chem crystals pack down thru vibration. Doesn't matter if the unit is stored vertically or horizontally. On the SAR boats at the weekly crew change we would remove from the holder and tip upside down and then right it several times until we could hear or feel the dry chem slide from one end to the other.. If idry chem was packed too tite, we would use a rubber mallet on the bottom when upside down to get the hard packed material to release. This is not a metal framing hammer. Also made sure the pin was in, no white discharge from nozzle and the gauge was in the green. Getting a local FD to put on a demo using flash pans also having RVers taught proper useage would be a good topic at any rally. It could save a life.
  3. No harm, no foul. I modified my last post. I'm guessing you fly. Yrs ago I flew into SeaTac or Boeing in a 172 to go to a boat show. Anyway, during the day while at the show the wx tanked and winds picked up from the SE so you will be familiar with them. So we took of heading south into the wind and climbed to about 3k. Shortly after that Whitby Approach called me to confirm I was a 172. I asked why, they got back to me and said my ground speed was 175 knots. It was 35 minutes from wheels off to wheels on back in YYJ. Anyway, like I said, no harm. Roger
  4. Thanks Barb. I got notified of his response, the OP didn't indicate a trip to Vancouver Island just the San Juan's. Whale watching is a big thing around here with 2 Orca pods in the combined US/Can area. In the past Washington State Ferries has had a 'deal' rate for RV's Summertime crossing to the US Islands or to Sidney on Vancouver Island. Folks should check with the 1800# to check it out. It is about an hr to drive from Port Angeles to the ferry crossing on Bainbridge Island over to SEA. Plus xtra cost. In general, at low tide one needs to be careful not to catch the back end of the trailer on the ramp when on and offloading the ferries. In those cases, I dump the truck suspension as well as the air hitch to keep the aft end of the trailer as high as possible. I can hear scraping from others who don't. This is on Low tides only. Anacortes is the better choice in the Summer, you eliminate the US/Can Border crossings and the accompanying lineups and missed ferry connections. Mind you, the smorgasbord is pretty good. Especially if it is the breakfast with sausages and bacon. My dog was partial to both, but he was Canadian...Maybe American dogs don't care for S & B. Cheers
  5. If you left from the US then it would have been the Sidney Anacortes run.
  6. I have a system similar to Mobile eye, camera, G force indicator plus other features. The biggest feature I was interested in at the time was the lane departure in case I wandered out of the lane BUT mine nd others do not work when there is no white line on either side for it to see. Also if you have the lane set for a certain width and the construction area has narrower lanes, it goes crazy and beeps at you all the time.
  7. Again this is only if you plan to come to Vancouver Island. If not and you plan to visit some of the other American Islands, the other poster is correct. They charge you a return trip. San Juan Island does have at least 12 decent campground, not sure of rates...Google it.
  8. I live on Vancouver Island and have used all 3 ferries. My rig which is 66ft long is 189US each way from Sidney BC to Anacortes. Reservations are a good idea as they only allow so many longer units. You will probably be put toward the rear of the ferry as it is open not closed like the BC Ferries from Tsawwassen or the Vancouver side to Victoria. The reason is to get as much weight as far aft as possible 'cus the ship sometimes torpedoes the waves and green water rolls down the deck....not a good thing to happen. There is one sailing each way at the moment. It may increase during peak months. You will go all the way thru from Anacortes to Sidney BUT yo are allowed to get off once with the rig at no xtra charge on one of the Island stops, ie San Juan Island or Orcas then get back on and continue the return trip to Anacortes. Last December, I was charged only ONE way, not return. How could they charge return when there are other ferry options to get back?? The Coho Ferry, Black Ball lines leaves from Victoria Harbour and goes to Port Angeles. My rig can get in there easily.. Again it is a good idea to book in advance. During peak months they have 4 sailings each way. From Seattle you will need to catch an xtra ferry to Bainbridge island which is another cost. You can drive south and loop around the south end of Puget sound...It depends on where you come from. BC Ferries have more and bigger ships. All closed so waves not rolling down the car deck. Generally hrly sailings, again it is a good idea to book in advance, xtra 15$, I think. Re BC Ferries, the Ticket agents at the booths are not used to seeing a 5th with an HDT. Their eyes get big , skin gets flushed and they panic. They will want to charge you commercial rates if you have an HDT. If no HDT, you are OK. They have special rates for RV's from June to September. For me it drops from about $500 Can to something over $300 each way. It also depends on the days and time of day you sail....It's not a big deal. They have an 800# you can call or e-mail me with specs and times and I can figure it out. Travel time is about 1 hr 45 minutes ish. Pets have to stay on the car deck, you cannot. Same with the others as well I think. If you have an HDT, there is a letter which Customer Service can provide you by e-mail which allows you to travel as a non Commercial unit. Just show this to the redneck agent and it stops them dead in their tracks. It becomes a non issue. I can scan and send a copy of my current letter so you can send it to them as reference material so they will know what you are talking about. Staff change around, so who I deal with last year may not e the same person you deal with this year. It would be a good idea to jump on the letter asap, as the move glacially slow. Any other questions get back to me...glad to help. Roger
  9. I'm calling that one. Not everyone has the room for an 18" or 24" residential unit. No big deal to deal with dropped items. Probably one of the best upgrades I've done. it fits between the washer and dryer. Power, water and drain are already there and it fills otherwise useless space. Now dishes go straight from table to dw. Now no counter clutter or messy sink.
  10. Fisher & Paykel X2. Put one in between the clothes washer and dryer 3 yrs ago. No issues except a chrome ring from a knife handle came off and plugged the drain. At the time I got mine there were 2 sizes available. One was a bit taller but wouldn't fit in the space I had so went with the 16" drawer. It fits a 10" dinner plate and that's adequate.
  11. I'd like to see what can be taken away from this so others who have not had to deal with it could do a pre emptive strike to prevent this grief. There needs to be a refit shop which identifies the known problems and repairs them at a reasonable cost. If something else crops up later, the owner is advised of it and given options. If known issues were identified and costed out then future buyers could be made aware so they could offer X amount less for the trailer to allow for mods. After market modifications.
  12. OK, looks like you salvaged the plywood by injecting epoxy between layers and clamping it together somehow. Just because wood or plywood is discolored doesn't mean it's rotten. So you may be OK. Normally plywood I've worked with will warp when it gets wet but not delaminate..Ie Kitchen toekicks. Your screws are still going into the edge of the plywood tho. I Used stainless #8 screws and predrilled the holes. Tighten by hand so as not to overtighten and strip. Like a drill would or could. Maybe do a 180 with the trim so the screws don't go in the same holes. In the case of my bedroom slideout, I cut the rotten material plus 6" back and replaced it. I put a pce of 3/8" thick by 6" wide plastic from the outer edge of the slide running inwards to disperse the slideout weight. I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it.
  13. http://photoposting.is-great.net/ Jim, can you copy this link to your Favourites tool bar at the top of your screen. Just below top line which has the BLUE circle with the white left pointing arrow inside it. Highlite it by left clicking at one end or the other then move mouse to the other end. Release left button. The whole line should be dark blue in my case. Keep cursor on it then rt click to copy it. Release rt button Move curser down drop down menu to copy Go to top of page and left click on Favourites, it will turn dark blue. Release left button With left button released , move cursor down to 'Add to favourites bar'. It will be a lighter shade of blue Left click on favourites bar You now have the photo posting site on your toolbar. Get that done and I'll walk you thru getting pics on the forum. R
  14. There was a 2 hr gap from the original shortened post to the one that is up now. I have been thru this same issue and so has someone else who had really good wood skills, he documented and posted the process. My situation was similar to yours, rotten floor which the RV repair people ignored and carpeted over. The slidout wall almost fell off. With much difficulty I undercut the floor back 6" more than the rot, cut out and sistered in parts of studs and wall plate then replaced the OSB flooring with doubled up pressue treated plywood which was a little thicker than 1/2" as opposed to the OSB being a heavy 7/16". Removing the whole slide would have been the best issue but at the time, not an option. Sikaflex, putty butyl tape with the paper back and both types of Dicor compounds seem to be the major players in the RV industry. Add to that my trusty PL Premium and Rot It rot killer. I hear you loud and clear re screws in edgegrain OSB. They are not going to hold. In my case on the last refit, the water tank replacement, I cut the OSB back and replaced it with solid wood..I'll post a pic Rotted floor edge with as you call it beltline exposed with butyl tape still on. Pic of passengers side floor aft of triple axle. Techs call this rounded transition "J panel" I used a Multitool plus chisels to cut back the rotted 1/2' plywood floor as close to 7/8" as I could, cleaned the 'beltline' of glue etc. The white piece is a 2x3 dadoed or plowed out to allow a 1-1/2" x 3/4" solid material facing your beltline area. The remaining over 1" was glued with Rhino glue and screwed to the underside of the plywood. Butyl tape was put on the solid wood facing the inside of the beltline before fastening to the underside of the plywood. The screws thru the beltline trim into the solid wood got a really good bite. Couldn't ask for better. None of them spin. Which is what others could do to see if there could be an issue with their respective trailers. If your rig was at the backend of the park at a Rally, ther's no doubt in my mind with some of this bunch and adequate tools, pics in advance to scope out the work, it could be fixed in short order. And it would be Uber built. Roger
  15. I didn't want to hijack the topic posted earlier about how water intrusion has or will impact most of us owning most RV's. Mine is no exception. Perhaps certain makes and models may be prone to issues in the same locations. Using my Travel Supreme as an example, I'd like to see others benefit from my experience in where the problem areas were and what fixes I did or plan to do. I'm not interested in keyboard warriors second guessing my repairs and saying I should have done this or that. The work was done after much research and with the best materials available and to the best of my skills and I'm a journeyman Joiner so am able to find my way around most things to do with wood or Corian. Some of these fixes are pretty easy to do, others require a lot of research and work. Some work not easy to do when you are on your back with your neck craned at an odd angle. Sometimes when the rig is opened up, it presents opportunities to upgrade, modify or prep for other planned improvements down the road. Or in my case replace a water vent hose black with mould that would otherwise never been found or seen. Gross pics available. Some fixes or variations of may lend themselves to other situations on other brands. Example, my split watertank had to be replaced last Fall. This was an enormous job, pics were taken, repairs were uber done. It did open up other areas that needed repairs. Pics showing where water did get in and what to look for perhaps saving others from the same grief. Another is TS slideout motors. I've had my BR slide motor out several times. The dealers would like to sell me another $500 motor when all it took was a 25 cent Woodruff key. The key acts as a sacrificial link and shears if too much torque is applied. An easy 1 hr fix. I have all the pics and instructions on file. Due to poor responses to topics posted in the past, I decided not to upload pics or what and how repairs were done. On a separate note, water intrusion, damage and rot, IMO would be a worthy topic at any Rally. Some minor issues not involving a tablesaw, chopsaw, router or other noisy tools could be undertaken and completed by those with the necessary skills in a few days or less. Something I'd find more rewarding than sitting around nursing a stale beer. At the vey least people would leave informed.
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