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charlyhors

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About charlyhors

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  • Birthday 09/14/1949

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    Male
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    Colorado
  • Interests
    Nature, Universal/Ecumenical Spirituality, Meditation, Music, Hiking, Yoga, Chi Gong, Depth Psychology, Volunteering, Indie/alternative films, discussing the meaning of Life, the Universe, and Everything ;-)

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  1. Water heater won't light/ stay lit

    Well, Dometic shipped the new motherboard under warranty. Popped it in. Immediate strong lighting. So I guess those that said it was the board were correct. And those that said check the connections and the sparker were also correct as it could easily have been that. And the shop manual and a sticker on the heater also said to check all connections and clean them before replacing the mother board. The new board did have a bigger coil, and I think that probably helps generate a stronger spark. Once again, the Escapees forum helped me solve a problem, and the water heater is no longer such a mystery to me. :-)
  2. Water heater won't light/ stay lit

    All the comments have been helpful and interesting as usual. Thank you all. I got on the phone with Dometic/Atwood, to find the new part # for my circuit board and ask about warranty - our RV is only 15 months old. They were nice enough to promise to ship one directly to me. Which is wonderful. Reading reviews of that board on Amazon - Atwood item 91365 - looks like a pretty iffy item- averaging 3 stars. I would order from Dinosaur, except for the possible freebie working. Also I didn't see a part there that looked like this board. If the Dometic board fails, I'll use Dinosaur's customer service email to find their replacement part I'll update this with how things come out, when I receive the board and install.
  3. Water heater won't light/ stay lit

    All the comments have been helpful and interesting as usual. Thank you all. I got on the phone with Dometic/Atwood, to find the new part # for my circuit board and ask about warranty - our RV is only 15 months old. They were nice enough to promise to ship one directly to me. Which is wonderful. Reading reviews of that board on Amazon - Atwood item 91365 - looks like a pretty iffy item- averaging 3 stars. I would order from Dinosaur, except for the possible freebie working. Also I didn't see a part there that looked like this board. If the Dometic board fails, I'll use Dinosaur's customer service email to find their replacement part I'll update this with how things come out, when I receive the board and install.
  4. Water heater won't light/ stay lit

    "The clicking sound is the spark. It may be sparking to ground someplace else. Do it in the dark and you should be able to see a nice fat spark, someplace. If it isn’t where it is supposed to be, the wire may be bad. You will need to check all the way to the board. " I checked it in the dark. There is No spark anywhere, even with though it makes the clicking sound. ??? I'm about ready to buy a new circuit board.
  5. Water heater won't light/ stay lit

    I cleaned the sparker, all the wire connections, then replace the sparker. Still isn't lighting. It Does make the Click Click sound and gas does come on, but I sure can't see a spark. Should you be able to see the spark? Does the click sound indicate that it IS sparking? The click sound was there with both the old and new sparker. (It does fine if I hand light it each time. And it also works on park electric
  6. My 10 gallon gas electric water heater (Atwood 10-E) has trouble igniting and also trouble staying lit. It's an intermittent problem, but mostly doesn't light and then only stays lit for a few mnutes when it does lite. I adjusted the air mix to where there is a nice clean smooth blue flame when it's working. (still goes out after a few minutes) I've cleaned out the curved tube that funnels the gas to the larger burner tube. I've adjusted the electric igniter and ground to the correct 1/8" gap. I've played with the position of the igniter assembly. There is a dime sized piece of metal mounted an inch or so in front of the gas pipe going into the burner. I assume that is to spread the gas flow more evenly down the burner tube. I've adjusted the position of the igniter assembly both directly in the center of the burner tube, and also off to the side, with no great luck either way. Any ideas on diagnosis or repair? https://photos.app.goo.gl/6kLQ394OBDDGweHF2
  7. What do you guys think of using the slide-out seal conditioner products two maintain the flexibility of seals and protect from UV? Do they damage the rubber? How about just a silicone spray? Other question is as I go around tightening screws on trim I noticed places where the caulking appears to have separated. What is the best kind of caulking to use on trim and Edge pieces exterior
  8. Wheel dust cover, grease cover, bearing

    Good point Mntom!!
  9. Wheel dust cover, grease cover, bearing

    I watched a video on replacing or repacking trailer bearings - doesn't look too hard, but messy. I'm hearing different things here on the easy lube bearings - don't put any grease in for a couple of years - pull the wheels and repack or put in new bearings every year, along with a new rear seal, along with inspecting the brakes. I'm curious why they bother with Easy Lube zerks if repacking is needed yearly? On a one year old unit like mine, what would you recommend for maintenance? Also, one of my rims does show significant grease near the hub - would that indicate the rear seal needs replacing? https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPN4jI6Tg0KSqnFzeO2Mr9jJjZda9OdMBOsShTsrNtooHUZtJACXI22-9S25zIFeA?key=clN6UVFLUzRITVNONEo3OTFHTG1Ldnh1VDNVelVn
  10. What do you recommend in the way of annual or routine maintenance on a full time 5W - particularly chassis issues? Just trying to get ideas to maintain my 1 yr old Open Range Roamer
  11. Wheel dust cover, grease cover, bearing

    Thanks for the advice. I did find a good bearing cap and also hubcap at a true value Store How often would you recommend I lube the wheel bearings through the EZ Lube Grease zerk. It's a new 5W and we've been using it full time for a year
  12. Wheel dust cover, grease cover, bearing

    I'm not crazy about taking the RV into a shop as it is our home for us and our cat
  13. I have an open range 31 ft fifth wheel, new, still under warranty for a few weeks. A few weeks ago my wife noticed the dust cover on one of the wheel hubs had popped off and the underneath grease cover cap was loose at an angle under the hub. See the pictures in the link. I took off the wheel and inspected the Hub and grease cover. I did not see evident dust or dirt in there, so I straightened out the bent edges of the grease cap and inserted it back into place after putting in additional Grease. Since the dust cap was missing I just duct taped over the round plastic hub cap. I have two questions really. One - should I take our live in fifth wheel to a shop and have them repack that bearing and check it out? Two - how would I go about getting another grease cap as the edges of that one are damaged and it doesn't hold in super tight. And how would I get the round plastic dust cap that fits in the hub https://goo.gl/photos/9McTySds4vCEeeVT8
  14. Air Conditioner Problem

    Excellent advice, All. As usual!
  15. We've been having a problem with the air compressor cycling on and off while cooling. So it takes forever to cool down. I called a mobile RV mechanic and made an appointment, but one thing he said did not sound right to me. I mentioned that maybe the unit just needed a recharge and a leak fix, and he said you can't recharge RV AC units, that you have to replace them if they have a leak. This fellow has excellent YELP reviews, but this didn't sound right to me. Thoughts?
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