Jump to content

packnrat

Validated Members
  • Content count

    209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About packnrat

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ca
  • Interests
    camping, target shooting, jeeping, motorcycles(fast ones),trains, getting out.

Optional Fields

  • Lifetime Member
    No

Recent Profile Visitors

1,084 profile views
  1. check this site out for best up to date carry information. https://www.usacarry.com
  2. packnrat

    10 Year Rule

    i have never been asked about age of the rv. but i mostly boondock. my rv was on the rd in 2001. still looks great. in a coupke years i can say it is brand new retro style rv. 😜
  3. i know of no "source" for or about warming up a motor. i just kniw things can snap much easer when there is a mix of hot and cold parts. and that tht tolarnces are set for a warm motor not a cold one. this dies not mean let it idle to warm more than five min. just to get warm oil through the whole motor. sure it is not up to full opperting temps. the rigs at work would take 30 min to get "hot" at idle. and that is on a 65-75F degree day. as to shutdown nothing wrong with letting the motor run a min or two before turning it off. as the turbo is the big deal. only realy to let it get to lowest rpm before shutdown. again just a couple min. not 20-30 min. just a lube thing here. and yes i am guilty of start up cold and jump into gear and go. like start up start motor. get ready to drive. belt, radio, plug in phone to charger, that sort if thing. shut down ( for me) log book ( computer), paperwork in hand. when it is over 90F i add the ac into this. heater warms up better on the go.
  4. on start up ( any motor) a good 4-5 min is best to "warm-up" the parts to a working temp, and get good warm /hot oil throughout the motor. ( motors are not built to run "cold"). turning a motor off and on short dur can hurt it if done repeatley or a lot. ( back to oil) but long "cool down" idle times not required. when one parks. just one or two mins is more than enougth time to spool down the turbo. and "relax" a motor. anything longer is just burning up fuel moneys. now if one is having to restart. a couple times to park "right". there are other issues there. you house battries should already be full charged. if pluged in then not a issue. only reason older trucks kept the motors running was for the health of the driver ( cold/heat). or if in that cold of a place to help keep the fuel and oil from jellying. if one must run a motor after parking. there is a problem someplace.
  5. packnrat

    CA restricted routes maps

    ebbits pass onlys says " not recemended" not prohibited.. tight curves, steap grades, and one lane. sonora pass. is the same but keeps two lanes. ( sorry tried to insert a photo of a fliped/jacknifed rv on sonora pass. his brakes heated up and lost it on of all places the last tight curve .
  6. packnrat

    CA restricted routes maps

    not only that but there are some roads NOT listed that should be avoided, and some you must stay off of. and yes state hwys. sonora pass- hwy 108, eberts pass - hwy 4 hwy 49 between maraposa and hwy 132. ?something ferry rd? off I5 between redding and red bluff. hills, grades, turns, limited room. sure there are others but these i know.
  7. true the steering wheel is not very stroung. but so many locks are just junk, easly oppenend with a couple very cheep prces of wire. or sheet of thin alu. ( beer can thin).
  8. using hardend chain and lock ( sized too big for bolt cutters) hooking the steering wheel and brake pedal works better.
  9. packnrat

    I-5 Closed from Yreka, CA to Ashland, OR

    hwy 97 through Klamath falls must be a nightmare. and the town of dorris might be cut in half due to non stop traffic.
  10. maybe time to vote with your wallet. move to a better more rv frendly state, and send a letter ( not email) to the gov telling why the state is loosing some much needed tax moneys.
  11. packnrat

    inside trim/molding.

    YES. YES. YES. 😊😀😃 thats the stuff.
  12. packnrat

    inside trim/molding.

    help the plastic trim has failed and i can not find any place that sells any. forget specific style just nobody even lists such. factory would be great but will settle for another "style". 1-1/16 in wide (od). fits over a wall 1inch thick center locking "flange" 4 -1/16 tall. sides drop down about 1/8 inch just simple flat with sides to for outter edges of a small wall. center flange fits into a grove to hold it there. must be able to bend as there are two curves to fit. both differnt raides and one inside curve, the other is a outside curve this as it goes from floor to ceiling. stock stuff just fell apart if you looked hard on it.
  13. that would be a sweet truck for my new montana. but! after plunking a down, and payments for the rv. i do not even have a plug nickle to offer. good luck with the sale.
  14. packnrat

    backing a fifth wheel vs motorhome

    i might be s bit biased. as i back up for a living. yard hostler. but it is easy. take your time and get out and look if not 100% positive. as you back up follow the trailers lead it will come to you. the shorter a trailer the faster it turns. get lined up (stright, or 45degree.). keep your eye on the drivers side. passanger side just for reference. (and proof you are in the clear) when you see the trailer start to turn out. turn the top of your steering wheel that way and it will go where you want it to. it is a learned skill, but should not be hard to learn. but then i have been pulling trailers for 30 years. so no problem for me.
  15. yes cost is a unknown right now. but that is why i said "gross" not "net" i do understand there will be a loss involved. i will go the cheapest way i can, if i get sick i will just walk into a er room, if bad sick, party time. fi d a nice place to watch all the remaining sunsets i have left. NO not a death wish. just do not fear death. many times in my life i have been trying to kick in deaths door. so on with life till the end.
×