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Jack Mayer

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About Jack Mayer

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    Principal in RVH Lifestyles, an HDT design, build, consult company specializing in all aspects of Heavy Duty Trucks. RVHLifestyles.com

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  1. D - Ring location

    On the chocks: It is important that they be low enough not to interfere with the various versions of the cars....some have very low air dams. Basically, you want the chock to be just tall enough to hold the lashing winch. When I originally designed the lashing winch-on-chock concept it worked but turned out to be too high for the newer cars, which have lower rubber air dam extensions. Also, I ALWAYS use the lashing winches that use the socket - NOT the bar - for tightening. Why? As mentioned above, the socket one makes it easier to take up the slack. It does have the downside of requiring a socket to use. Everything is a trade-off, but in practice the socket one proves more successful IMO. And I've used them all. Jeff's suggestion to use the keyed-slot tie-down system is actually the best solution if you have no boxes under the car area. We always have ramp storage boxes there, thus it turns out to be problematic to do....water into the boxes is a big issue. Thus the reason we use the bolt-down custom chocks with the integrated lashing winch.
  2. Comfort Ride Hitch, how to mount, between rails or on top?

    OK, Rick is the last word on all this stuff. But we routinely mount Comfort Ride hitches and it does vary based on the truck. On a Volvo 730 that has standard frame height we mounted a 308HD, set to its lowest position ON TOP of 1/2" plate on the frame rails (on top). It is at around 51", so after there trailer is on it, it will be 49". The air cells depress about 2" for each 900 lbs on an individual cell. I'm not near any hitches/trucks at the moment, but you do have to measure YOUR truck carefully before mounting.
  3. Which inverter? Magnum vs. Victron

    Victron makes very good stuff. Like most systems, you will gain the most from it if you go all Victron, since the stuff tends to work best together.
  4. What would proper wifi cost a park?

    Our RV is wired for direct Ethernet external jack connection. Never found a park yet that had Ethernet, though. I've seen parks with Internet carried on their cable system, though.
  5. Yes, that would be it....but do your own very careful measurements. As Dave said, there are sometimes extenuating circumstances. You have to understand your situation. But the above is fairly typical.
  6. Yes it does. The car takes up the 74+4+4......then there is whatever you want from the kingpin to the car. We use 51" because we have buffer built into the car space. But if you wanted to use 55" or so, and no buffer in the car space it works out about the same.
  7. Dave, I can tell you what we use....but you can compress these a little - there is some room to do so. But I don't recommend it, because if you go on "crooked" you will potentially have an issue. Pin to 4" clearance space = 51" 4" clearance space to car. Then 74.5" for car footprint - this includes mirrors. Then 4" to drom box or back of cab. This accounts for a 453. If ONLY a 451 then you can snug that up. So basically, the car and buffer space take up 74.5+4+4. That gives you plenty of room.
  8. Nice looking truck, Dave. Someday I may build a classic out.... You want to mount your hitch so your trailer is level. Typically 48" or thereabouts. You may have to adjust your trailer pin box to get level on a 48", but it is pretty much the "standard" height....so switching trailers is less of an "adventure". Some of the new trailers are pretty high, so 48 may not be possible. But should be the starting target.
  9. 50 amp power management

    Well, I cannot remember seeing a 50 amp RV wired with the AC on the same leg of service (when having only 2 AC units). And I've worked on RV electrical in countless rigs. Now everyone can tell me all the ones they have seen wired that way..... Seriously, I'd like to know if people see that often...because I sure have not. Vern???
  10. Mobley problems

    I've seen 18-24 hour forced reboot issues when the sim was in the Mobley. Since moving it to the Unite Explore I've run continuously without any reboot issues, and with no slowdowns at all, other than apparent tower congestion. Plus I have access to additional bands of service. I would suggest that you put any device you have on a timer so that you eventually get a forced reboot from time-to-time. This works best on non-battery devices. On my battery devices I try to do manual reboots once in awhile. But on the Unite I have not done one for more than a month.
  11. smart car ramps

    Guys, it is just practice getting lined up. Not hard once you get used to it. It is rarely perfect, but usually within acceptable tie-down limits. If necessary you can hand push the car back, cock the wheels, and re-orient it. But that is rarely, rarely, required.
  12. MaximumSignal Update?

    You just transfer the SIM. Firmware updates are happen independently of the SIM.
  13. truck brakes

    Actually, I've gotten that much verified by filling, not computer. But it does not happen often and it was only with this new truck, or going back to my lighter trailer with my ISM. Then I routinely did get in the 10's....But the trailer was only 16K lbs. However, I'm impressed with this truck....pulling my 28K plus trailer at 67 mph I actually got in the 10's. Once.
  14. Why HDT + 5er vs Class A + Toad?

    Are you sure about that???
  15. Hayes brake controller - acting up

    Mounting it under the trailer is a possibility that many do not utilize. It will work fine there, and you can bring your drain valve and and pressure gauge to a more useful location. In some cases using an remote electric drain valve is called for. But that is getting pretty fancy. Just protect your lines well.