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Jack Mayer

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About Jack Mayer

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    Fulltimer
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    Founding Partner, RVH Lifestyles, an HDT design, build, consult company specializing in all aspects of Heavy Duty Trucks. RVHLifestyles.com

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  1. Yeah it is frustrating to get bad advice. I had a camera wiring/compatibility issue between Voyager systems and Rear View Safety systems we were trying to solve. Called up Voyager and talked to their tech people. They said - "No that is incompatible and won't work". After thinking about it we decided that made no sense and did some further testing and configuration....lo and behold, it works....when they said absolutely it would not. If we had listened to them it would have been an expensive experience for the customer.
  2. I also know this truck. The previous owner took great care of it. If looking for a pre-emissions truck and the autoshift is acceptable, this truck is definately one of the first I would look at.
  3. This is why we carry copies of our domicile state laws concerning MH status. Registration and licensing is reciprocal so given that you can show your legality in your home state, that should be sufficient. Now, a LEO may still write you a ticket, but asking for a supervisor in that case would likely mitigate that - IF you have the research handy and it is clearly stated.
  4. If you want blended color and a fade-out is that not going to be difficult to do with vinyl? I would think you would want to paint it on. Good idea, and it will look great if done right!
  5. We used a hydraulic motorcycle service lift for the stacker lift table. Done over again we would simply use hydraulic cylinders and do the design and layout ourselves instead of a "store bought" lift. Or, use a winch. The advantage of the lift was it was pre-engineered with safety factors built in, and cut our time down quite a bit. Time is money for the customer. Not so much for the DIY builder. All of this stuff is possible. I just find it unlikely that it is going to happen for the price "required". Even attempting a bargain price is going to require ALL the work be done by free labor, and use of donated or salvage parts except perhaps repurposing of some manufactured trailer parts.
  6. It is going to be challenging to get a motorcycle on next to a Jeep. How are you going to get it into place? What mechanism will hold it safely? Where will you find the "room"? On the "rack" above the Jeep hood, what are you going to use to elevate it? It is not at all simple to do safely. It has to be braced very securely and the Jeep below it will cause challenges in that regard. Our stacker system was very carefully designed to take these forces into account. It was VERY challenging to get that design correct and implemented. You say you want to build a bed to carry a Jeep and motorcycles for 1/3 less than our beds. Our modular bed that carries a smart is about 18K in its most expensive optioned state (rear light panel, boxes, etc)....more or less. Without a hitch. You want to add a lift mechanism and motorcycle racks to that, lengthen it significantly, and get it delivered to you for around 6K by your statement. That is simply not realistic. You could not build a simple deck of any quality for that. If you paid someone to do the work I'd be surprised if you got anyone to build anything useful for 6K. If you do the work yourself you will have more than that into it by the time you are done. I think it is time to step back and look at what you really need, and reassess how you are going to get there..... You can "crowdsource" a design for a Jeep deck. That will get you an outline you can build. But even if you do much of the work yourself you will be spending over 10K to complete the project. At least in my opinion, and we do this every day....
  7. I'd still recommend you consider a fire "go bag". Nothing complex, but if you have a fire it will be invaluable.
  8. Linda I do a "Fire" presentation at the HDT National Rally. In that I discuss a bug-out bag for fire....not for "urban collapse" Here is a document that describes the contents of ours.....it may or may not suit you.... If the link does not work let me know. LINK
  9. This one is running around Quebec, but no incline.....
  10. Let's all use good judgement here. We don't want the thread closed, or members suspended. Personal attacks work on Facebook, but are not tolerated here.
  11. What Al said is key. The biggest barrier to sales are: Not pricing it realistically. Use the info available and get real about the price. You won't get what have into it. Anything above NADA is a non-starter. Options are worth nothing, in general and do not really contribute to pricing. Make sure things are in working order. Nothing turns off a potential buyer faster than stuff not working, or maintenance that has been ignored. You MUST have lots of pictures showing everything. And I mean EVERYTHING. Not 10-20 pictures, but 50-100. If you have something special on the rig, showcase it. Like solar, advanced electrical systems, etc. Video helps a great deal.
  12. That was custom work....there is no normal "head swap" of an ET "super binkley" to the Trailersaver "Binkley". It is going to be custom and depend on the particulars of your hitch. If you have an ET and want it refurbished and maybe the upward dampeners put on it then that is another story. It would depend on the "vintage" of your hitch.
  13. Shannon, Glad you enjoyed your visit to SE Kansas. You sure got a lot done. One note on the ET handle. We do have longer handles coming....they should be "retro-fit-able". But I find if you take a small tube (like a chain link fence top) and crush the end that it works perfectly as a handle extension. For others that need hitch work done, we normally do that here at our shop - Shannon was just fortunate that Young's took on the job. If you need upgrades or refurbishment we are happy to help if we can. Or just come to visit
  14. I've also used those lights like Phil got....they work well and are good quality for the $$$. They are not near as good as LED though.
  15. What works and won't work is determined by a wide variety of factors. You have to know them all to determine the final result, and even then it can change based on the trailer that you use. In general long overhangs (cantilevers) have to be scrutinized very carefully. It does not mean they won't work. But the longer out you go, the more you have to be careful. In general on our builds we don't like to go over 6'. Not that it can't work, but what works in one configuration may not work in others, and owners HAVE been known to make changes in their equipment along the way. If we build it for a specific situation and it is used in a different situation and causes issues, we don't want to carry that liability. Pushing things to the "edge" leaves little room for contingencies. If you work your numbers and understand them, then you have done your homework....and what you build will likely work for you. It is up to YOU to understand all your numbers, which I'm sure you will. One thing to point out - on ALL long cantilevers the trailer is far more "twitchy" than shorter overhangs....which is easy to understand if you think about it. This can vary from "not too bad" to "unmanageable" depending on the trailer characteristics - NOT just pin weight. For example the ratio of the king-pin-to-axles vs. the overall length is a major contributor to "non optimal" handling. Yet the actual pin weight may be the same as a trailer that has a "better" ratio. So there are a lot of considerations. Also, heavily loading the rear can set up a teeter-totter effect that can contribute to poor handling on a very long cantilever rig.
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