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About D&J

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  • Location
    Home Base Republican City Neb
  • Interests
    RVing, Fishing, Workamping and enjoying retired life in an RV

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  1. One of your batteries has a bad cell, it will appear to be fully charged but as soon as a load is put on them the voltage will drop. Denny
  2. Why would anyone want to watch the back of a tractor trailer for 150 miles
  3. Look at this price https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/air-conditioner/air-conditioners-coleman-dometic/duo-therm-rv-heat-pump_B59186.XX1C0 I've bought a few units from them with no problems. All you have to do is remove the inside cover and remove 4 bolts and pick it off. A little help from a friend or to to get it on the roof and your ready to go. You already have the wires disconnected. Denny
  4. Like I said in your last post the motor inside the compressor is fine but the compressor it drives is locked up inside the sealed case so you need a new compressor or a new unit. The piece you pointed to and called it a expansion valve is the reversing valve for the hear pump operation and has nothing to do with the compressor starting. Denny
  5. Do not tie it to a residence use a outdoor account. Denny
  6. You need a amp probe to verify that the start cap is in the circuit and working, you can also short across the start cap terminals with the cap disconnected and then put your meter on the terminal and you will see the cap charging. But with the new hard start cap in the circuit and it still will not start then the compressor end of the compressor is lockup probably a bearing, the motor is OK but not the compressor so either replace the compressor or the whole unit but you will be hard pressed to find someone to replace just the compressor. This is the two main reasons for early compressor failure. 1 running on hot days with a dirty condenser, this may not cause it to fail right away but over time the excesive heat damages the internal compressor parts. 2 running with a dirty evaporator, this will cause liquid getting back to the compressor, compressor can't compress liquids, it will also wash the oil off bearings and compressor parts causing them to lockup. Denny
  7. It gives a idea what you are looking at and if you noticed he didn't check for a ground. The ohms between the common terminal and start and common to run terminal equal the ohms between the R ans S terminal so the windings should be good but if you don't have the factory specs its a guess. On the black start cap you can see the white spot on the top of the cap thats where it will bulge if if it's bad he didn't show the start relay device that takes the start cap out of the circuit. I worked on so many units of all kinds comercial and residential I knew where to start looking just by the sound and what it was doing. If it triped the breaker the first thing I checked was for grounds, if the compressor started but trip the overload shortly after startup the start relay was bad, if it wouldn't start then the start cap and run cap. If everything checked out then the compressor was locked up. I did it so many times it was a matter of few minutes do diagnose the problem now that I'm old and out of practice it you take a little longer. You need a good clamp on amp meter to do a lot of the test. Denny
  8. I should has added to my post before you did your test, I should of had you check between the posts C to R, C to S. To make sure you have continuity between them. Does your unit already have a start cap, it should be smaller and black or white. If it does there will be a small hollow in the top, see if its soft or bulged out. If it is its bad. If you bought a hard start kit be sure to remove all the old start cap and relay before installing the new one but keep the parts so when the one size fits all kit fails your will know the correct parts to get to get back to factory specs. Denny
  9. Did you check the unit for grounds before you ordered parts. Denny
  10. To isolate the problem try running the fan by itself, you can do that from the thermostat. If it runs then switch it to a/c or heatpump and see what happens. If it snaps off instantly then the compressor is shorted out internally. To confirm that take the cover off the compressor terminals and disconnect all three wires and take your multimeter set it on ohms and see if you have continuity between the terminals and the copper lines, if you do it's grounded and it's bad. Denny
  11. Amazon has them for both the new and old style, old is $104 and new style is $116. They state that they aren't the same brittle material the Dometics are, I've looked everywhere and they are the cheapest new ones I could find and will be ordering one soon. They are made by ICON not Dometic. Denny ,
  12. I still have a Dometic RV refrigerator that I replaced the cooling unit with new Amish and it cools way better than the original unit. With that being said we also have a chest freezer and sometimes a dorm refrigerator running that we travel with and power it off a 1800 watt inverter and when going down the road the truck keeps the trailer batteries charged. If we are going to be dry camping for long periods we don't have the chest freezer or dorm refrigerator running. And normally if we are traveling and think we will be dry camping we don't use the dorm refrigerator because they won't hold the cold like a chest freezer for overnight stops. It all depends on how you want to travel. Denny
  13. We are using 3 strips of carpet left over from the slides for in front of each roller. When not in use for a short period of time we store them in the trailer but when setup for a long period they go into the basement. Denny
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