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About dennisvr

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  • Birthday 06/24/1954

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  1. Wheel Torque Indicators

    Not sure if cheaper, but it may be a lot less painful then the knots I would get on my head if my wife found out I was using her stuff.
  2. How to find great boondocking spots

    Thanks Marc, Great video, makes me want to get out there right now. But I ill have to wait another month before heading out.
  3. Wheel Torque Indicators

    I agree. I would think if you were concerned about loose lug nuts you could steal (I mean borrow) some of your wife's nail polish and put a dab on the nuts and wheel and watch to see if they move.
  4. Replacing Orings in push in fittings

    Here's another post from MrSeas with the PNs. MrSeas Major Contributor Validated Members 1,127 posts Report post Posted August 16, 2015 (edited) Go to the dealer and get the replacement parts for the push in connector. There is an "0-ring" and a brass collet that are replaceable. The O-ring is a greenish-blue color Here are the Volvo part numbers: 1/4 O-ring 85108484 price $0.48 (each) come in a bag of 10 1/4 brass collet 85108476 price $ 2.86 (each) 3/8 O-ring 85108485 price & 0.56 (each) come in a bag of 10 3/8 brass collet 85108477 price $ 3.10 ( each) 1/2 O ring 85108486 1/2 brass collet 85108475 To replace the parts is pretty straight forward. Please release all the air pressure in your system before attempting this repair! 1. Depress collar on fitting and remove line. 2. Remove brass collet. I use a pair of needle nose pliers. 3. Remove O-ring. Sometimes a bit of a challenge. I use a set of " dental picks" one straight and one with a 90" bend at the end. Use the picks to remove the O-ring. Most times it will be dry rotted and come about in prices. Make sure to remove all of the pieces. Insert new O-ring and be careful not to damage it. 4. Insert collet. Most times I will use the old one if it is still in usable shape. Most times the o-ring is the cause of the leak. 5. Trim off the end of the line before inserting into the "rebuilt" fitting. I like to do this when ever I have enough slack in the line. Sometimes it's not possible. When inserting the line into the fitting press the line in until it "bottoms" out in the fitting before you pull back on it to lock it in. 6. Pressure up your system and check for leaks. Sometimes a little wiggle on the line after it is pressurized will help it seat. After this less costly repair attempt you may still have to repair/replace your pass-thru. Good luck! On Edit: These instructions were written with the "Newbie" in mind.... Lots of folks have already been down this path. Not trying to get anyone upset. This is how I do this type of repair. No need to buy the "gold plated" Volvo brass fittings if I can just repair it. In most cases the "fitting" is fine it's just a worn out O-ring. Edited August 16, 2015 by MrSeas
  5. Replacing Orings in push in fittings

    Here's the post I got them from. Volvo told me that a few were mixed up so you should verify what the part is when you order.
  6. Replacing Orings in push in fittings

    Looks like it will be awhile before I get to fixing the leaks. Just got done building a dump truck and now I've got about 75 ton of rock to haul and spread. That may keep me busy for a few days. Thanks for all the tips.
  7. Replacing Orings in push in fittings

    Thanks I've got the Orings so now I have to get the time to dig in and get these air leaks fixed. I should have asked if I had to replace the colletts at the same time. I thought I did and Volvo said I had to order a package of 10 at $2.95 ea. Lesson learned, ask questions from the experts on the forum first. Carl, I think I got the #s from one of your posts and Volvo said a few of the #s were mix up. I think it was the 3/8, they said the oring # was for the collett and vise a versa. I really applicate your post with the PNs, I don't think my Volvo dealer would have found them. Thanks again
  8. Replacing Orings in push in fittings

    What is the procedure for replacing the Orings and colletts in the push in fittings? I need to replace a couple that are leaking in the park brake valve. Thought I would ask before destroying a $250/$400 valve.
  9. Toy Hauler Ramp

    I have done this to mine years ago with now ill effects. What I did was installed eye bolts on the ramp about 3/4 the length of the ramp away from the hinge and used chain instead of cable with S hooks. I lower the ramp and if I want to use it as a deck I hook the chains with S hooks to the eye bolts and set outside having a cold one. I don't think I would want to hold a dance party on it, but it works great for me and the wife.
  10. smart car ramps

    I do like the Macs system, but did I say that I'm cheap, well I like to say Thrifty. I can get Etrack at Utility for a good price. Last time I got it, it was $22 for a 10' piece and I have the adaptors to go with it that have D rings so I can use straps with hooks. After typing all that I got to thinking. If I change out the expanded metal bed with the diamond plate I have, I could add another cross member and mount the Macs track to it. It sure would be a clean looking install. You guys keep costing me money. First it was the whisper then the torque multiplier now this. When will it end. I know it wont, because if I see it and don't have it I want it.
  11. smart car ramps

    After a little looking around I think I may go with the E track. I found everything I need. https://www.etrailer.com/Tie-Down-Anchors/Erickson/EM09162-2.html https://www.etrailer.com/Tie-Down-Straps/Erickson/77314.html https://www.etrailer.com/Tie-Down-Anchors/Erickson/E19135.html
  12. smart car ramps

    Al, I don't have the attachment points on the deck yet. I was thinking D rings, but with the expanded metal it doesn't work without adding metal for support. I'm thinking of using "E" track, but not sure of its rating. I like the expanded metal so I can hold light things anywhere on the bed with a bungee cord. I have a 4x8 sheet of 3/16 alum diamond plate I'm thinking of replacing the expanded metal with. If I do I would like to use 4 pieces E track side to side to hold things down as long as it will be strong enough to attach the wheel buckets to and hold the car. So many things to do and so little time.
  13. smart car ramps

    Thanks Phil, the red toolbox is a 54" from harbor freight. I figured at $400 it was worth taking a chance to see if it will hold up to all the bouncing. I had just enough room to build the 60" box to put it in between the cab and the fenders. I bought enough metal to build a box for the other side, but haven't had time to build it.
  14. smart car ramps

    Al, here are some pictures of the bed you asked for. I built the box that's under it specifically for a 54" tool box I bought. As you can see its a work in progress. Still needs some touching up and then some paint. Never fails when I start working on the truck something else comes up and I have to stop. Sorry I didn't get any pictures of the bed with the sideboards removed, but without them its just a flatbed.