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phoenix2013

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  1. phoenix2013

    Smart car running ruff after buying gas

    Did you put in high test or regular, those engines hate regular.
  2. phoenix2013

    McCall Hitch Shock Question

    I'm not aware of any "table" how to set this hitch up, sounds like you are "about right". Looking at the bags (and I know a lot about them) the verticals are probably 2.000 pounds each and the horizontals 2,500 pounds each (that's at 100 psi max pressure and they are linear). So at 40 psi you are supporting about 1,600 vertically and the horizontals have 1,500 pounds against each other. Incidentally your fifth at 12K is absolutely "perfect" for that hitch, when Gene designed his hitch "substantial" fifths (32-36 feet) were running 8,000-13,000 GVW. If you arrived at the campground in a 35 footer everything stopped and you got the "looks of envy". I would guess your pin-weight might be around 2,000 pounds and considering you are getting some pressure from the front bags and the head being about 1/3 of the way to the hinge 40 psi on the rear bags seems about right. Is there any line or indication of the ride height, etc., on the hitch? 60 psi in the anti-chucking bags seems to me a bit high. We measured chucking at one time developing trailer brake controller (with an 8K fifth). and normal chucking is only few hundred pounds back and forth and it's constant. Big "chuck" you see above was with very aggressive braking and with good trailer brakes OK controller, it's about 1/3G which in your case would be about 4,000 pounds. I don't know what the actual compression in the center point between the bags is and how they react against each other with a chuck, I would experiment with that pressure by lowering it in stages (50 in each, 40 in each) and see if you can detect "relaxation" in you neck muscles in normal pulling. I'm assuming when you pull you drive very defensively and brake gently. When we saw the 1/3G that was on an empty road, we clamped the hammer down hard and went from 50 mph down to zero in three seconds.
  3. phoenix2013

    McCall Hitch Shock Question

    Match the shocks so that they are the same size, have the same travel and mounting scheme and don't worry about it. It's the hitch and the airbags that do most of the work. That hitch was indeed a rare Rolls Royce of hitches in its time. What size and weight trailer are you pulling with the hitch and do you play with the horizontal bags inflation to optimize the anti-chucking?
  4. phoenix2013

    McCall Hitch Shock Question

    I don't know, when I met Gene it was a social visit, he was pretty much retired. From a technical point of view in an air hitch the shock absorbers don't do much. The forces involved are massive and the sizes of shocks that can fit in the available space only allows for small piddly shocks with not much excursion and therefore effectiveness. That's why I didn't bother with shocks on ETs and instead I use polyurethane shock absorbers that can produce 1,000s of pounds of resistance in a very small space There are many tables on google, like this one http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/2005_productshock_spec.pdf that you can use to determine the how to match what you have to what you can replace it with. Curious, how you ended up with this hitch, these are like gems, not too many around?
  5. phoenix2013

    McCall Hitch Shock Question

    For all you "newbies" and lurkers, a bit of history. McCall hitch is the granddaddy of all RV air hitches, designed and built way before it's time. Gene McCall was a real pioneer in the RV field. His company, Square D in New Mexico, did the first conversions of MDTs to RV Haulers. At that time it was discovered that commercial trucks, like MDTs (and later HDTs) are brutal on the flimsy frames of RVs. Gene was a brilliant engineer and a fabricator (I had a pleasure of meeting him in New Mexico) and he designed the McCall air hitch for his MDT conversions. What is brilliant is that he not only designed an air hitch but also designed into it an anti-chucking feature. Those two horizontal airbags can be "tuned" to the weight of the trailer to reduce that incessant tugging back and forth while puling trailers (fifth wheels in particular). Along the way somehow he met Jerry Clark. I'm assuming it was for business reasons and not friendship. The reason I say that is because McCall had to tell Jerry to stop building the hitch on the account that Gene McCall had a patent on it, oops! I had a chance to review the patent, pretty strong. Jerry doesn't give up easily so he designed TrailerSaver and with his aggressive marketing essentially out-muscled Gene in the marketplace. And that's too bad because until ET showed up, there has not been any anti-chucking hitch on the market for 20 years. Jerry built a very successful business and he and his partner sold TrailerSaver to it's current owners. Both signed non-compete agreements, I know the partner. However, there is Comfort Ride hitch, Jerry's new "invention", which functionally is about as close a knockoff of TralerSaver as possible. The pattern continues.
  6. phoenix2013

    MDT to tow 24k GVWR Teton

    Confessions from a real user and a slow learner. After three pickups and couple hundred thousand miles of RVing with those pickups absolutely was "ready for an upgrade" to an MDT. Got Cabriolet conversion to an MDT. 5.7L in line six Cummins in line with Allison tranny. Very nice and comfortable interior (with a real sleeper) nice ride (F-350 chassis). The thing was a friggin' dog up hills. It wasn't even a dog it was a slow dog with emphysema. Brakes needed constant rebuilding, after all, they were just one ton pickup brakes. Time to do something about it, get a "real MDT". Real pretty, had real (good) MDT brakes, 7.2L International V-8, Allison tranny. WOW! Hooked it up, first hill discovered that this thing had COPD, down to 40-45 mph! And that was with a 36 foot trailer. On top of that with Class 6 stiff suspension the ride was horrible. Kept it for 4 years decided to go to a larger trailer, had visions of not being able to get around Amish buggies up hills. Time to solve the problem. Problem solved. Most MDT owners will not tell you this. Wounded pride? Overpaying for mistake? Not studying the decision thoroughly? Critical wife? Etc. With a 24K GVWR fifth don't screw around with an MDT, unless you find M2-112 with a big diesel, it's either that or an HDT.
  7. phoenix2013

    ET hitch measurement

  8. phoenix2013

    Happy Father's Day !

    Yes, fathers responsibilities are never done even in the days reduced to a Father's Day card and occasional visits. But we soldier on with suitable "substitutes". Introducing my latest "charge" to Home Depot shopping. Teaching him a proper eating etiquette, in this instance sushi with chopsticks. Letting him know it's OK to sleep in our bed. Mother is doing her part too by providing a TV watching "snuggle time" Mother is taking me out to a restaurant for Father's Day, I have a choice of four, as a Templar Knight once said I must "choose wisely"
  9. If the Jackalopee Running Lights LED lights up, it's not a Jackalopee. It's the trailer, or the cable or the socket going to the trailer. There is no relay involved in that circuit, it's just a simple shorting copper trace from the truck side to the trailer side.. When I troubleshoot trailer circuits I try "forcing things". Use a small 12 volts battery or charger with couple of clip leads (+12 and Ground) and try to "Light up" the different light through the harness. Easiest way to see if you have an open or a mis-wire.
  10. phoenix2013

    BInkley hitch head failing

    The best engineering answer answer I can give you is "I have no clue and neither does Moryde". However, I would guess that it must have some positive effect, the question is, is it substantial or minimal. The rubber shear spring Moryde incorporates in that pinbox is oriented in the right direction and it works in their suspensions, but it is also much smaller than the ones in their suspensions so again I would "guess" (honesty here) that its effectiveness is limited. Since we did this in 1997, to look at this, I am not aware of anyone in RV industry that has done this since or before. I still have some of these pins, perhaps Moryde should purchase one and install it in their pinbox then they could unequivocally prove and claim how effective that pinbox is. Other than that it's based on "feelings" from their customers and we know that "satisfaction" with the decision one makes is often proportional to the amount of money one spent on that "decision". After all no one want to hear from one's spouse, "you spent all this money on this crap and I don't feel any difference". I briefly mentioned the subject of impact in above postings. Take a look at above graph of forces that the pin sees and therefore transfers to the hitch head and hitch itself. Few engineering parameters before I offer my "observations". The strain gauge and the pin design came from a company that designs these and mounts them in submarine hulls, drawbridge hinges, transmissions, etc., etc. These guys knew their stuff. The type of the strain gauge they installed was strictly unidirectional, meaning it ignored all the stresses (like up and down motion), except for the forward and back (chucking), second the hitch was sloppy (by design), so it was all impact. Everything you see here took 3 1/2 seconds time wise, the trailer weighed 8,000 pounds (32 footer, no slides), the highest peak you see here is 2,500 pounds (about 1/3G), the electric brakes on the fifth were engaged. The horizontal scale is in seconds, the vertical scale is in 1,000 pounds. Note the sharp rises to a tune of thousands of pounds occurring over a period of 100-200 milliseconds, that a sharp and serious impact. Binkley heads were around now almost 4 decades. They were superbly over-designed from day one and what you see here didn't bother them at all. What I owned then (1997) was a large fifth, the heaviest fifths back then were 10-12K. That 1 1/4" swivel pin had a large margin. Things changed dramatically once fifths "marched" past 20K GVW, 1/3G on a 24K trailer is 8,000 pounds. But at the same time I don't want to be an alarmist. Failures due to impact, although they occur instantly also can take years and years to develop to the point where the molecular structure of the metal reaches that "snap point". I agree with Randy that with his lighter trailer the modified pin that he has should be fine for years if not forever.
  11. phoenix2013

    BInkley hitch head failing

    PM box has been cleaned out
  12. phoenix2013

    BInkley hitch head failing

    It's got 100 messages, I think it's full and I can't see how you clean it out, new "system" ain't too friendly ☹️ Phone should work 603-382-6500
  13. phoenix2013

    BInkley hitch head failing

    The reason I am "so smart" because I spent all my life listening to guys like Chet.
  14. phoenix2013

    BInkley hitch head failing

    The pins on the Binkley see an awful lot of IMPACT! Up to 1/2G when things are new and most likely several Gs once wear causes for gaps to develop and the force vectors on the pins (up and down and forward and back) change from pressure forces to hammering forces. The pins see 1G force down of the pin weight constantly, so that's 3-6,000 pounds, but that's nothing compared to 1/2G forward and back on 20-25K trailer (10-12,500 pounds) and that can be a lot more (several Gs) once gaps develop and things travel through open space and then come to an instantaneous stop. That's why hammers work so well when you pound on something. Whatever force you apply to the hammer with you wrist is hundreds of times more when that hammer hits and comes to an abrupt stop. To mitigate things you need to spread the forces over a larger area. On the original Binkley the forces on the pins act on the vertical tabs only. Note that in my "modification" I enlarged that area significantly by welding in longer bushings. The inside of the bushings is lined with a high end non-greaseable composite bearing, that material can withstand pressure of 27,000 pounds per square inch, there are over 3 square inches of area in each bearing. Putting zerks in pins was my initial thought, but I had the same concern Carl has that once you drill grease alleys, particularly sideways to redirect the grease to the "areas of interest" what happens over the time with all that impact and shear forces. So the second thought I had to put zerks in the top of the ears and drive the grease down towards the pins. That required putting access holes in the top of the head and low profile zerks (head rotation clearance), etc., etc, lot of work. Hence my current "solution", chop the old ears off, re-weld new ones on with larger bushings and bearings. Re-utilize the old swiveler to hold the cost down and re-utilize the old jaws and block from the old Binkley again to hold the cost down.
  15. phoenix2013

    BInkley hitch head failing

    TraileSaver head and swiveler replacements are available from ET Hitches on an exchange basis (old Binkley and old swiveler being a core). It hasn't made the website yet. The head is a brand new Super Binkley (slightly smaller version of the Super Binkley), the swiveler is a TrailerSaver bottom modified to accept the Super Binkley (hence the need for the core).
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