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About 57becky

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    Box Elder, SD
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    travel, genealogy

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  1. The slightest imperfection in the grease seal will allow grease to contaminate your brakes if you decide to use the not so easy lube feature. It is intended to be for boat trailers where the axle is immersed in water. If you are regularly traveling with your rig, you should be checking the brakes, annually if you follow Dexter's service interval, and that requires pulling the drum and inspecting the brakes, and then repacking the bearings and installing a new seal. This is prudent insurance to maintain your brakes and helps keep from having a bearing failure.
  2. I seriously doubt that an international company, selling products in this country, would not be making anything sold here incompatible with standard replacement parts in standard threads used in this country. Just like most of the components in our rigs that are made elsewhere, they are using American threads which are standard for LPG parts. This is a contact link for this company, and it appears that you don't have to know Italian to ask a question http://www.cavagnagroup.com/contact-us/
  3. Not trying to confuse the issues being discussed, and they are very valid issues, but another thing not understood is, all the breakers inside our rigs and in the pedestals have a 10,000 amp fault duty rating, meaning they are designed to handle momentary fault current, which can get very high. You wouldn't want a breaker to blow up from a fault, because it wouldn't work to protect anything. Also, fuses and breakers have different ratings when it comes to duty current and fault current. A breaker and fuse is designed to handle the maximum rated current continuously, but it will trip very fast in a fault situation, so, a 50 amp breaker connected to a 30 amp load will trip when it sees a fault, and yes, there will probably be damage to wiring on the load side, but the breaker will not stay closed and keep the fire going. Just for anyone's curiosity, I am a retired lineman from a large California utility, and I have seen some very weird things happen with electricity at voltages from 120 volts all the way up to 500,000 volts. This conversation is one of the best, as it exposes anyone willing to read it to the potential hazards associated with electricity, and hopefully keeps us all safe.
  4. On our old small fifth wheel, we were on the road and suddenly weren't getting water from the pump, even though we had a full tank and the pump was running. We finally got to our destination, and I went to a local RV place, purchased a new pump, and proceeded to replace to "non working" pump. I transferred the screen device to the new pump, completed splicing the wires and had the plumbing all connected. The new pump didn't work either. I took another look, and being new to this RV, took off the screen device and disassembled it. Inside was this very fine metal screen, covered in green slime, and it finally made sense why water wasn't going through. Cleaned it up and all was good. We didn't drink water from that rig, before or after this event, but we do use water from our current rig's tank for cooking, but we do use a lot of water from the tank so it rarely gets old.
  5. We also travel with it on propane and have for a long time. If we stop for more than maybe 15 minutes and are not level, we turn off the fridge to protect it from overheating which will damage the cooling unit.
  6. On our Norcold, the hose is threaded through a hole on the fridge, but is attached to the drip tray inside the fridge, not a fitting on the outside. Maybe, if yours is the same, you could thread a wire or string through the hole in the fridge down to where you can reach, and connect the new hose and pull it through.
  7. The only problem with this is, say your batteries are low, and you need 120 volts from either a pedestal or a generator to get your charger/converter to charge the batteries, how do you get enough DC voltage to close the contactor in the transfer switch?
  8. The biggest misunderstanding of the purpose of fuses or breakers is people think the device is intended to protect the load. The device is there to protect the source of power from damage from a fault downstream of the device. If you have a failure inside your rig, the 50 or 30 amp main is there to protect the park pedestal and the rest of their system from your failed system, not the other way around. In your 12 volt system, the fuses protect the panel from a short or other failure on the one 12 volt circuit that has a problem. Just like if you crash into a utility pole along a road and the wires come in contact with each other or the ground, the fuses upstream open up to protect the rest of the utility's system from the fault and the customers upstream of the fuses remain in power.
  9. Actually, CA 44 does not go through the park. To go through the park, you would have to take CA 89, and as of this time, the road is still closed due to snow covered road. But, back to CA 44, which is a very good road, which we just traveled a few weeks ago with our Montana from Carson City via Susanville. We are currently parked east of Burney, CA, and just talked to a couple yesterday that attempted to visit Lassen Park, and they said, from CA 44, they only were able to drive about 12 miles into the park on CA 89.
  10. When our Suburban 12 gallon water heater developed a leak last year, I considered replacing it with a Suburban tankless unit. The downside of this, which changed my mind, was in replacing a conventional unit with the tankless, they have an annual maintenance requirement that necessitates access to the rear of the water heater, and on our rig, that would be impossible to do. So, before you jump at the tankless option, be sure to check everything about the unit you want, and what is needed for maintenance.
  11. You don't count the truck weight, only the trailer. The hitches will have ratings indicating total trailer weight along with the weight applied by the pin box on the hitch. You will be fine with a 16K hitch. Just remember, the heavier the hitch rating, the heavier the hitch will be, and the more you will have to lift to remove the hitch from the bed of the truck
  12. Ours takes a 7/8" socket and they are 1/2" studs, 7K axle.
  13. Sounds like you at least need to get a fitting to add to your drain line that you connect a water hose to and force water backwards toward the tank so you can dislodge whatever is blocking the drain, such as this https://www.walmart.com/ip/44143432?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222031918545&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10359660339&wl4=kwd-1105701512209&wl12=44143432_10000001205&wl14=RV sewer line back flush fitting&veh=sem
  14. Don't hesitate checking with Americas Mailbox in Box Elder. They also have contacts for everything you are needing. We have used them since we went FT, and they have been excellent. http://www.americas-mailbox.com/ We have used Good Sam insurance (National General). also since we went FT, with no issues.
  15. I would recommend NOT running chlorine into these tanks due to the corrosive nature of chlorine. If you read the Use and Care Guide pdf, the warranty is void if anything other than water alone is introduced into the tank. You also do not know what chlorine will do the the bladder of these tanks. These tanks are really intended to be used with water well pumps, not RV systems, and the only thing that would be inside the tank would be water.